Vuescan and Fuji color neg film
Stan Richard
are very good color neg films for shooting the northern lights, better
than Supra 800 in my opinion, although I see the Supra is supported in
Vuescan but neither of my favorite films are supported. I've tried
all the different Fuji film settings but I am not really happy with
any of them. The reds end up being too violet/purple and it takes
quite a bit of work to get them to look the way they should. Does
anyone have any suggestions or to Ed, will you be adding these films
to the pull down list eventually. Thanks in advance.
Stan Richard
http://www.nightskyevents.com
J. Gilbert Plantinga
stanr...@hotmail.com (Stan Richard) wrote:
Yes NPZ 800 Pro -- my single most desired new 'feature'
Gilbert
http://gilplant.com
Ed
films. A better method would be to allow us to scan an unexposed piece of
the film (like after image 36) and save that profile as a custom film type.
That would save him the hassle of creating different film profiles as they
come out.
The best that I could do was to set it to generic film and play with the
different white balance choices to see which looked the best. There's quite
a bit of trial-and-error, but it will get close which can be further refined
by Photoshop or whatever you use.
"Stan Richard" <stanr...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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Maris V. Lidaka Sr.
film, then save the settings as "Fuji 800.ini" or the name of your choice.
Load that up whenever you scan that same film.
Maris
"Ed" <EdE...@NetZero.MyPants.com> wrote in message
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faneuil
1) Use 'generic color neg' setting.
2) Follow the advance workflow to lock in the mask and exposure.
3) Use 'neutral' color balance (I don't trust any automatic color balancing
algorithm - sorry Ed)
4) Scan a shot of an 18% graycard shot in midday full sunlight.
5) Use the 'right click' option to set white balance.
6) Scan the rest of your negs.
This will get you into the ballpark for most situations.
I have been very pleased with this workflow.
After two years of forsaking Fuji film, I can shoot NPH again!
When you shoot the graycard, avoid glare angle.
The reds may a bit heavy, but overall colorbalance is good.
Tweaking red saturation in PS clears it right up.
Let me know if this helps
Best of luck,
Eric
"Ed" <EdE...@NetZero.MyPants.com> wrote in message
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Tom Harrison Jr.
They scan pretty well (minimal grain aliasing) but the colors are pretty
dead without some extra work.
Tom Harrison
"J. Gilbert Plantinga" <no...@hvc.rr.com> wrote in message
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Xander Janssen & Anita Israel
Sent an Email straight to Ed day before yesterday with a question about
them, no answer yet.
Xander
"faneuil" <dontdar...@nospam.net> schreef in bericht
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John Eyles
developers like this should be eliminated !
:-) :-) :-)
John
faneuil
I think Ed is sick of replying to the 'Fuji film type question'
(I asked it many, many times until I got some 'learnin!)
From what I have gathered, unlike Kodak, Fuji will not supply the necessary
film data to Ed.
It doesn't matter that much, as differences in the age of film, storage
conditions, and the multitude of variables during developing make the best
film type setting mean very little.
You are best to use 'generic' film type and set your white point as I
outlined in a previous post on this thread.
Eric
"Xander Janssen & Anita Israel" <xa...@zeelandnet.nl> wrote in message
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Xander Janssen & Anita Israel
"very different" from the old ones. The 400 and 800's are not that easy
workable, although the Advanced Workflow etc etc will do a very very good
job. (I mean these 4th layer emulsions)
Xander
"faneuil" <dontdar...@nospam.net> schreef in bericht
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Bob Shomler
stage lights, but I've used it in daylight-balance scenes too. Vuescan
settings that work best for me are film type Fuji Super HR 400 Gen 1,
and very minimal black and white point clipping. Sometimes I'll reduce
the red exposure a bit (related to tungsten lighting). Vuescan output
is 48/16-bit mode tiff, which I edit as needed in Photoshop -- levels to
set black and white point, curves for contrast adjustment if needed, and
sometimes reduce overall saturation or just red saturation. This isn't
a lot of effort in Photoshop. This sequence gives me reasonably good
results with NPH too, though others have posted a better NPH method with
gray card.
While it's difficult to evaluate jpegs on the web, some of my results
may be seen in recent dance photo pages <www.shomler.com/dance>. See
Eclipse, Ballet San Jose School 2002, Graduation Ball, Phaedra among
many others.
"Merry Wives" is an outdoor, mostly open shade, mix of NPZ and NPH (I
preferred the NPZ results) <www.shomler.com/merola/2002/>.
"Looking down" (cat), "Shannon," Mount Shasta sunset, and most of the
hot air balloons are from NPH; and the B24 shots are with NPZ on
<www.shomler.com/other>.
Bob Shomler
www.shomler.com
Tom Harrison Jr.
These look very nice indeed -- what scanner did you use? What other kinds
of things do you typically do after the scan to get these kinds of results?
Thanks --
Tom Harrison
"Bob Shomler" <b...@shomler.com> wrote in message
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Stan Richard
this a try. Thanks much for your help. Also thanks to Eric for his
workflow. One of these should work for me, much appreciated
gentlemen!
Stan Richard
www.nightskyevents.com
Bob Shomler <b...@shomler.com> wrote in message news:<3D7E06B7...@shomler.com>...
Bob Shomler
(Vuescan to 16-bit mode tiff then 16-bit mode color and tonal
adjustments in Photoshop as I described below) I reduce image to 8-bit
mode. Then if needed I'll smooth out areas that show grain aliasing,
sometimes do further selective edits and save that Photoshop file as a
working master file. (I also archive the Vuescan raw files.) Then I'll
crop and resize according to purpose: web or print. Final step is a
two-stage unsharp mask similar to process Bruce Fraser describes in his
March 2001 creativepro article "A Two-Pass Approach to Sharpening in
Photoshop"
<http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/12189.html?origin=story>
(different parameters of course for print vs web-size images).
Bob Shomler
www.shomler.com
Tom Harrison Jr.
impressive!
Tom
"Bob Shomler" <b...@shomler.com> wrote in message
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Ed Hamrick
> These Fuji's are also on my wishlist!
> Sent an Email straight to Ed day before yesterday with a question about
> them, no answer yet.
I just got back from Apple Expo in Paris an hour ago, and my
e-mail has quite a backlog.
Experimenting with different film types works best, along with
using the advanced workflow suggestions. It isn't a trivial thing
for me to add new film types, but I have some ideas to try in
the next few months.
Regards,
Ed Hamrick
Stan Richard
film types in Vuescan. I have spent many, many hours working with
Vuescan and my negs trying to get a decent scan, still trying to
figure it out. Wow, the learning curve is steep here but I'm not
giving up yet :)
Stan Richard
http://nightskyevents.com
"Ed Hamrick" <use...@hamrick.com> wrote in message news:<alo80l$ars$1...@nntp-m01.news.aol.com>...
faneuil
improvement for Fuij color film.
I have been working to improve my Fuji scans for two years now..
If you do try it, please post to let me know how it works out.
Eric
"Stan Richard" <stanr...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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Xander Janssen & Anita Israel
Your workflow is ok, but you can skip the grey card.
I'am always looking for neutral colors in the negs to use for balancing, if
one is not suitable I use another one on the same rol. You should actually
shoot a grey card on every new setup and lighting. If I use a midday grey
card shot for balancing an early evening shooting I don't get a good
balance. Same for indoor shots with fillflash and mixed lighting. As example
I did some shots 800/400 in a swimming pool with partly sunlight falling in
and artificial light (fluorecent), completed with fill flash. the neutral
color option is working the best if you try to find a as neutral color as
possible in your scene, due to the green cast of the fluorecent lights. The
results are great and some little tuning is left in PS.
Regards,
Xander
"faneuil" <dontdar...@nospam.net> schreef in bericht
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faneuil
my post.
Plus, as the lighting changes throughout my roll, I don't want to keep
stopping Vuescan, tweaking my settings, scanning, stopping, tweaking etc..
Plus, for many shots, it is very difficult to find a true gray.
Using a gray card to get me in the ballpark for all my shots and then using
the iCorrect PS plugin (from picto.com)
works extremely well. Their color editing makes tweaking quick and easy for
the shots that need it. I typically use it to fine tune color balance by
clicking on a gray region in the shot. (You can also use memory colors - a
cool feature to remember skin tones).
VS should be a scan-engine and PS an editor. It is cumbersome when you try
to do it all in VS.
Eric
"Xander Janssen & Anita Israel" <xa...@zeelandnet.nl> wrote in message
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Stan Richard
1. I don't quite understand the advanced workflow instructions, too vague.
2. I don't have an 18% gray card.
3. What is the "right click" option?
Stan
"faneuil" <dontdar...@nospam.net> wrote in message news:<mO5f9.227576$vg.39...@twister.nyroc.rr.com>...
Tom Harrison Jr.
"Stan Richard" <stanr...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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> Eric:
>
> 1. I don't quite understand the advanced workflow instructions, too vague.
> 2. I don't have an 18% gray card.
* You can buy them at a photo store or Amazon for very little money.
> 3. What is the "right click" option?
* If you right click anywhere in the VueScan preview window, the color
balance will be changed to "Neutral" and (importantly) the values for red,
green and blue will be automatically set using the point clicked as a
reference. Click a gray area anywhere in the image -- grey can be light or
dark -- doesn't matter, although closest to mid-tone gray usually works
best. Click around until you find one that works. And, if you
double-right-click, the color balance will be changed back to white balance
(which can be helpful if the point chosen comes up with something wacky.
Even if you only get close, it is very easy to make fine tuning manual
adjustments on the color tab by changing the red/gree/blue.
Since this feature was introduced recently in VueScan, I almost always use
it in favor of the white balance as I get closer to what I want. Your
mileage may vary...
Tom
Stan Richard
Tom, thanks for the explanation. I did try this and it does seem to
work except I don't have much *gray* in any of my aurora images.
Eric, I did my best with the advanced workflow instructions and your
tips and I think I'm getting it finally. I re-did a recent aurora
scan I got it to look almost perfect. A little more tweaking and
we'll have. Hopefully I'll be able to save the whole mess as an .ini
file? Thanks so much for your help, guys!
Stan Richard
www.nightskyevents.com
"Tom Harrison Jr." <tom.ha...@nospam.attbi.com> wrote in message news:<Vhqg9.307997$aA.53380@sccrnsc02>...
faneuil
Vuescan has a steep learning curve - but it levels off.
I kept at the 'advanced workflow' thing until it clicked.
It keeps things consistent throughout your roll of film - and speeds up the
scanning process.
Investing in $3 graycard was the best thing I ever did.
Really.
Once you conquer Vuescan you will get obsessed with color management.
I just bought Optical's monitor spyder today
Chasing the dragon's tail...
Eric
Tom Harrison Jr.
[snip]
> Investing in $3 graycard was the best thing I ever did.
> Really.
>
> Once you conquer Vuescan you will get obsessed with color management.
> I just bought Optical's monitor spyder today
> Chasing the dragon's tail...
A good analogy! I am several strides behind you, sword and sheild ready,
bracing for this new dragon :-)
This is also probably like learning to appreciate good wine. At first you
can only tell what you like and what you don't, but can't say why. Then, as
you learn, you begin to be able to separate the many components and
understand how to recognize one or the other. Then you realize that you can
no longer drink a $7.99 bottle of wine, but it is necessary to consume much
greater quantities to keep learning at the same rate. Then, you either
become a connnoisseur ... or a drunk.
Tom
faneuil
I have been frequenting wine tasting as well and just started buying wine
buy the case..
Boy those tasting events are like shooting fish in a barrel.
After an hour of tasting 25 wines they present you with a check list order
form - just in case you feel like buying.
Blammo!
Eric
"Tom Harrison Jr." <tom.ha...@nospam.attbi.com> wrote in message
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