what is the ipad telling me when it beeps every second or two under power?

[John Varela]

I was using the ipad in the car plugged into the cigarette lighter when it started beeping every second or two.

At the same time it was beeping regularly, it would show a green 89% battery and a lightning bolt and then a white 89% battery and no lightning bolt.

I unplugged it from the car charger, and as I remember it, it stopped beeping.
I plugged it back in and it started beeping again.

The bluetooth was on so the audio for the gps was going through the bluetooth speaker.
The beep wasn't going through bluetooth. It was coming directly from the ipad.

What is this barely audible beeping trying to tell me?

[David Empson]

John Varela <newl...@verizon.net> wrote:

> I was using the ipad in the car plugged into the cigarette lighter when it
> started beeping every second or two.
>
> At the same time it was beeping regularly, it would show a green 89%
> battery and a lightning bolt and then a white 89% battery and no lightning
> bolt.
>
> I unplugged it from the car charger, and as I remember it, it stopped beeping.
> I plugged it back in and it started beeping again.
>
> The bluetooth was on so the audio for the gps was going through the

> The bbluetooth speaker. eep wasn't going through bluetooth. It was coming
> The bdirectly from the ipad.

>
> What is this barely audible beeping trying to tell me?

Based on the appearance and disappearance of the power indicator, it was
telling you that it was being frequently disconnected from and
reconnected to a power source. That probably means your cable is faulty,
or the car power adapter is faulty, or something wasn't connected
properly.

It is normal for the iPad to beep at the point it is plugged into power,
so each beep indicated the iPad detected a power source. The disconnect
doesn't result in a sound.

--
David Empson
dem...@actrix.gen.nz

[Savageduck]

It sounds as if you might have one (or more) of the following:
a bad USB cable,
a bad connection to the iPad
a bad connection to the charger,
a bad cigarette socket connection,
...or a bad car charger.

BTW: What iPad do you have and what connector (30-pin or Lightning)
does it use?

--
Regards,

Savageduck

[John Varela]

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:02:10 +1300, David Empson wrote:

> Based on the appearance and disappearance of the power indicator, it was
> telling you that it was being frequently disconnected from and
> reconnected to a power source. That probably means your cable is faulty,
> or the car power adapter is faulty, or something wasn't connected
> properly.
>
> It is normal for the iPad to beep at the point it is plugged into power,
> so each beep indicated the iPad detected a power source. The disconnect
> doesn't result in a sound.

I originally thought it was the power supply, and it still might be the power supply, but the power supply has two slots, and it was in the 2.1A slot with the phone in the other slot. I switched cables and the same thing happened to the ipad on the new cable. This new cable is brand new (about a month old) and it is fine.
I think, if it's the power supply, which worked before, during (for the other phone), and after, it's really that the LOAD was too great.
I had both the ipad and the phone doing navigation work for me at the same time along with bluetooth (but no wifi).

Once I charged it, it didn't happen again. So, if it's the power supply, it's LOAD dependent because everything is working otherwise.
Just wondered if you have run into this anomaly of an ipad complaining even though it's at 89% that the current coming in was perhaps too low?

Normally it would just say "not charging" but that wasn't the case here.
It wasn't getting hot to the touch. Do you think internal heat could be the signal?
Is there a buffer that remembers this stuff that I can access?

[John Varela]

On Sat, 21 Mar 2015 23:20:23 -0700, Savageduck wrote:

> It sounds as if you might have one (or more) of the following:
> a bad USB cable,
> a bad connection to the iPad
> a bad connection to the charger,
> a bad cigarette socket connection,
> ...or a bad car charger.
>
> BTW: What iPad do you have and what connector (30-pin or Lightning)
> does it use?

It's the ipad air.

I didn't provide enough detail because it's really strange since everything works otherwise.
I took screenshots of the face of the ipad when it was beeping and can post them if you want.
I think the only thing that makes sense is heat, but even that doesn't make sense.
The only other thing that makes sense is load, but even that doesn't make sense.

It's not a bad cable. I tried two, both of which worked before and after.
It's not a bad connection either since I pressed and wiggled everything.
No, it's something special - maybe heat? Maybe load?
Maybe charging but I doubt that because it was at 89% (I took snapshots at the time).

I thought it might be a bad cigarette socket but I pulled it and replaced it and pulled it and pressed it and twisted it.
I switched sockets between the phone and the ipad.

Still, it was only the ipad that beeped.
It doesn't do it now. It only did it then.

The ONLY thing different was that both the phone and ipad air were crunching gps for about an hour before this happened.
On my way home from a 3-hour trip, it didn't happen again.
Only on my way up.

I think the ipad got in a state that it really didn't like.
I wish I had recorded the beeping but I was driving at the time.

It's something strange because there is nothing wrong with the equipment and the battery was dropping from 99% to 89% over a period of about an hour and a half (I didn't measure the time).

There's something it didn't like.

[John Varela]

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 06:35:20 +0000, Lewis wrote:

> Your cable is bad or the car charger is bad or one of them is lose.

It wasn't any of those but I didn't explain all the tests I ran so I understand that you would think that.
The cable was new and switched with another which worked with the phone.
The connection was good as I removed it countless times.
The charger was good as I removed it countless times and reinserted it and switched slots.
The charger, when removed, was warm to the touch, but not by much. Much less than a cup of coffee after it has been sitting on the counter for 20 minutes.
Not at all uncomfortable.
The ipad was only very slightly warm.

It's something having to do with the internal state of affairs of the ipad itself.
It was doing multiple gps as was the phone, and bluetooth, but not much else.

I think it was either load or heat dependent.
But, so what if the battery went down from 99% to 89% in a hour and a half, even under power?
It was on the 2.1A socket port, so, presumably it was getting the full amount.

I wish I had an ammeter in my USB cable, as I think it was load dependent.
I wish I knew how to check the ipad for internal heat.

I wish I could have recorded it from the ipad as you'd see it yourself, although I did snap about 50 screenshots while it was happening.
Is there a way to check the ipad for internal heat?

[John Varela]

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 09:03:17 -0500, John Varela wrote:

> I think it was either load or heat dependent.
> But, so what if the battery went down from 99% to 89% in a hour and a half, even under power?
> It was on the 2.1A socket port, so, presumably it was getting the full amount.

I even turned off the screen display for a while and it still beeped.
I had a couple of programs doing tracking which I didn't want to kill as I was running experiments.
So, in the end, I just let it beep until I got to my destination.

Since all the cables and chargers are good, it's not the classic problem.
No. It's something else.

Even the beep wasn't at all the normal charger beep.
Nope. It wasn't the boing that happens when you connect the charger.
It was more like a low warning beep. Very low volume. I had to hold the ipad to my ear under the driving noise, just to confirm it was the ipad and not the phone.

So, there's nothing wrong with the equipment.
The ipad seems to be working fine now.
It was in a "state" that it didn't like.
It beeped a different beep than I have every heard before.
More like a hardware beep, if that can be imagined.

I wish it had a recorder as I would have recorded it.
I do have screenshots though.

[dorayme]

In article
<91f77$550e5367$43da7656$23...@nntpswitch.blueworldhosting.com>,

Does it happen with the engine off?

--
dorayme

[Zaidy036]

Is the USB cable long and thin? It could be reducing the voltage into
the iPad while still enough for an iPhone.

[nospam]

In article <menpir$lat$2...@dont-email.me>, Zaidy036 <Zaid...@isp.spam>
wrote:

> Is the USB cable long and thin? It could be reducing the voltage into
> the iPad while still enough for an iPhone.

both expect 5v.

[Zaidy036]

I know but long and thin means more voltage drop at higher iPad draw.

[nospam]

In article <menqk1$lat$3...@dont-email.me>, Zaidy036 <Zaid...@isp.spam>

wrote:

> >> Is the USB cable long and thin? It could be reducing the voltage into
> >> the iPad while still enough for an iPhone.
> >
> > both expect 5v.
> >
> I know but long and thin means more voltage drop at higher iPad draw.

the ipad doesn't necessarily draw more current.

[Zaidy036]

Yes and they can both draw ZERO also but when at full draw the iPad
draws more.

[nospam]

In article <mens7j$tvr$1...@dont-email.me>, Zaidy036 <Zaid...@isp.spam>

wrote:

> >>>> Is the USB cable long and thin? It could be reducing the voltage into
> >>>> the iPad while still enough for an iPhone.
> >>>
> >>> both expect 5v.
> >>>
> >> I know but long and thin means more voltage drop at higher iPad draw.
> >
> > the ipad doesn't necessarily draw more current.
> >
> Yes and they can both draw ZERO also but when at full draw the iPad
> draws more.

only if it negotiates more. it's not automatic.

[John Varela]

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 21:18:07 -0400, Zaidy036 wrote:

> Is the USB cable long and thin? It could be reducing the voltage into
> the iPad while still enough for an iPhone.

It's the standard lightning cable, about 3 feet or so.

I think you're on the right tack though, which is that the voltage or
the current wasn't up to par for the ipad.

The beep was not being broadcast to the bluetooth, so it was kind of
a hardware beep (very low volume) coming out of the iPad.

The only thing that points to power directly was that the battery
symbol flashed from 89% white to 89% green, lighting bolt and then
none, with the beep kind of associated with the flashing.

[John Varela]

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 21:20:15 -0400, nospam wrote:

> both expect 5v.

I know.
There's nothing to indicate that it was otherwise.
But, I was driving, and didn't have a DMM with me, and probably wouldn't
have the right test leads anyway.

I guess I should invest in a custom usb set of test leads, to at least
test the voltage coming out of the cigarette lighter adapter.

But the thing worked prior, during, and since.

[John Varela]

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 22:06:54 -0400, nospam wrote:

> only if it negotiates more. it's not automatic.

That's interesting because the cigarette lighter adapter isn't a smart
adapter as far as I know.

So, it would give the ipad whatever current the ipad wants.
If the ipad asks for more, it will give it more, up to its max of 2.1 amps.

[John Varela]

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 07:03:40 +1100, dorayme wrote:

> Does it happen with the engine off?

Good question.
I didn't test that since I was on a long drive and didn't think of stopping.
What are you getting at?

[nospam]

In article
<7a0ca$550f9775$7794f5f2$18...@nntpswitch.blueworldhosting.com>, John

Varela <newl...@verizon.net> wrote:


> > Is the USB cable long and thin? It could be reducing the voltage into
> > the iPad while still enough for an iPhone.
>
> It's the standard lightning cable, about 3 feet or so.

then it's definitely not a cabling issue.

> I think you're on the right tack though, which is that the voltage or
> the current wasn't up to par for the ipad.

he isn't.

> The beep was not being broadcast to the bluetooth, so it was kind of
> a hardware beep (very low volume) coming out of the iPad.
>
> The only thing that points to power directly was that the battery
> symbol flashed from 89% white to 89% green, lighting bolt and then
> none, with the beep kind of associated with the flashing.

that means the ipad is connecting and disconnecting to a charger.

as was noted earlier, you have a faulty cable and/or power source.

[nospam]

In article
<866cb$550f9826$7794f5f2$18...@nntpswitch.blueworldhosting.com>, John

Varela <newl...@verizon.net> wrote:

> > only if it negotiates more. it's not automatic.
>
> That's interesting because the cigarette lighter adapter isn't a smart
> adapter as far as I know.

it has to be or it won't work.

[John Varela]

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 00:38:04 -0400, nospam wrote:

>> That's interesting because the cigarette lighter adapter isn't a smart
>> adapter as far as I know.
>
> it has to be or it won't work.

What does that mean?
It has "iPad/2.1A" printed on one of the two ports.
The adapter can source up to 2.1 amps.
What does it need to be smart about?
It has never had a problem charging the iPad before.

[John Varela]

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 00:38:03 -0400, nospam wrote:

> as was noted earlier, you have a faulty cable and/or power source.

The power source and cable worked prior, and since, so, they're not
"faulty" in a hardware sense.

But, maybe the cigarette lighter adaptor was temporarily overheated.
However, I pulled it out and felt it and it wasn't overly hot.

It has an integral fuse, which didn't blow (because it's working now).

[nospam]

In article
<acd00$550f9af7$7794f5f2$18...@nntpswitch.blueworldhosting.com>, John

Varela <newl...@verizon.net> wrote:

> >> That's interesting because the cigarette lighter adapter isn't a smart
> >> adapter as far as I know.
> >
> > it has to be or it won't work.
>
> What does that mean?
> It has "iPad/2.1A" printed on one of the two ports.
> The adapter can source up to 2.1 amps.
> What does it need to be smart about?
> It has never had a problem charging the iPad before.

the ipad negotiates with the charger how much power is available and
how much it wants. it does that via the two data lines.

snip the two data wires in the usb cable and the negotiation will not
work, which means the ipad won't get 2.1 amps. it will only get 100 ma,
the initial rate prior to any negotiation.

[nospam]

In article
<4433e$550f9b5c$7794f5f2$18...@nntpswitch.blueworldhosting.com>, John

Varela <newl...@verizon.net> wrote:

> > as was noted earlier, you have a faulty cable and/or power source.
>
> The power source and cable worked prior, and since, so, they're not
> "faulty" in a hardware sense.

something changed.

it's not normal to repeatedly connect/disconnect.

[John Varela]

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 00:56:39 -0400, nospam wrote:

> the ipad negotiates with the charger how much power is available and
> how much it wants. it does that via the two data lines.
>
> snip the two data wires in the usb cable and the negotiation will not
> work, which means the ipad won't get 2.1 amps. it will only get 100 ma,
> the initial rate prior to any negotiation.

Uh oh. Do I understand that you're saying that even though my two-port
cigarette lighter USB adapter has a port labelled "iPad/2.1Amp", that
it's only delivering a paltry 100ma to any iPad that I connect to it?

If so, why would they label the port "iPad/2.1Amp"?

My charger is similar to this one
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-usb-car-charger/

[David Taylor]

On 23/03/2015 14:26, John Varela wrote:
[]

> Uh oh. Do I understand that you're saying that even though my two-port
> cigarette lighter USB adapter has a port labelled "iPad/2.1Amp", that
> it's only delivering a paltry 100ma to any iPad that I connect to it?
>
> If so, why would they label the port "iPad/2.1Amp"?
>
> My charger is similar to this one
> http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-usb-car-charger/

John,

As measured here, with three different USB ports:

- one on the side of a Dell monitor 0.09 A
- a USB 2.0 port on a PC with data - 0.46 A
- a "power-only" USB port on a PC - 1.46 A

Please take the figures as approximate, but under some circumstances the
0.1 A figure is plausible. I checked with one of the many USB measuring
devices:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291302655098?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

although this particular unit strikes me as somewhat cheap and nasty!

When buying items such as chargers it's worth checking that they are
fully iPad or iPad Air etc. compatible in case you need a refund.

--
Cheers,
David
Web: http://www.satsignal.eu

[nospam]

In article
<c3082$551022b2$43da7656$24...@nntpswitch.blueworldhosting.com>, John

Varela <newl...@verizon.net> wrote:

> > the ipad negotiates with the charger how much power is available and
> > how much it wants. it does that via the two data lines.
> >
> > snip the two data wires in the usb cable and the negotiation will not
> > work, which means the ipad won't get 2.1 amps. it will only get 100 ma,
> > the initial rate prior to any negotiation.
>
> Uh oh. Do I understand that you're saying that even though my two-port
> cigarette lighter USB adapter has a port labelled "iPad/2.1Amp", that
> it's only delivering a paltry 100ma to any iPad that I connect to it?

initially, yes. *all* usb devices start off with 100ma, as per the usb
spec.

the *next* step is to negotiate for additional power, which may or may
not succeed, depending on various factors.

it's unlikely that a 2a charger will deny a request, but that
possibility does exist.

the negotiation happens over the data wires. if you cut those (which
you would not normally do), the negotiation cannot take place and it
will not go beyond 100ma.

> If so, why would they label the port "iPad/2.1Amp"?

because that's the maximum.

also keep in mind that most of these chargers are 2.1 amp *total*, not
per port, so if you use more than one port at the same time, you won't
get the full 2.1 amps per device.

generally, if it doesn't say per port, it isn't. otherwise they'd be
bragging about it being a 4a charger. read the fine print.

[dorayme]

In article
<99d8a$550f984c$7794f5f2$18...@nntpswitch.blueworldhosting.com>,

Just that engines, at least as in my previous cars, would send down
pulses to interfere with electrical and radio signals, steps had to be
taken to suppress them.

But modern cars usually don't do this. It was just a thought to
eliminate any interference from your engine with the piping of power
to your iPad. Easily eliminated as a suspect!

--
dorayme

[Erilar]

Maybe the lighter adapter isn't seated as toghtly as you think? I don't
use that for my iPad because I have a better setup in my car: a normal
wall- type plug- in.
--
Erilar, biblioholic medievalist with iPad

[John Varela]

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 12:19:18 -0400, nospam wrote:

> generally, if it doesn't say per port, it isn't. otherwise they'd be
> bragging about it being a 4a charger. read the fine print.

It's a 3.1Amp charger (15 Watts).
It turns out that it's bad.
I tested it more thoroughly today.

So, it must have been doing something funny to the ipad when it was
going bad. But both ports are now dead. So, something went wrong.

[John Varela]

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 19:17:24 +0000, Lewis wrote:

> That is the thing that tells you, with 100% certitude, that the supply
> of power was the problem.

It turned out to be the adapter.
It's fried.
I'm not sure what was happening when the ipad was flashing as the phone
was charging. But the adapter is now totally dead. Both ports.

[Jolly Roger]

On 2015-03-24, John Varela <newl...@verizon.net> wrote:
> On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 12:19:18 -0400, nospam wrote:
>
>> generally, if it doesn't say per port, it isn't. otherwise they'd be
>> bragging about it being a 4a charger. read the fine print.
>
> It's a 3.1Amp charger (15 Watts).
> It turns out that it's bad.
> I tested it more thoroughly today.

But you said it wasn't bad!

--
E-mail sent to this address may be devoured by my ravenous SPAM filter.
I often ignore posts from Google. Use a real news client instead.

JR

[nospam]

In article
<3e452$55111732$43da7656$16...@nntpswitch.blueworldhosting.com>, John

Varela <newl...@verizon.net> wrote:

> > generally, if it doesn't say per port, it isn't. otherwise they'd be
> > bragging about it being a 4a charger. read the fine print.
>
> It's a 3.1Amp charger (15 Watts).

2 amps on one port, 1 amp on the other.

> It turns out that it's bad.
> I tested it more thoroughly today.

no surprise there.

> So, it must have been doing something funny to the ipad when it was
> going bad. But both ports are now dead. So, something went wrong.

it was flickering between supplying power and not, thus the beeping.