Keeping drywall screws from shorting/breaking wires
William Kornfeld
fortunate enough to be able to run the wires before the sheetrock goes
up. When the sheetrock crew does come through, they're probably not
going to be all that concerned about my wires. There are places where a
wire will pass through a bored hole in the stud. It sees to me that
there is a certain probability that a sheetrock screw will damage a wire
somewhere (just AFTER the point when it can be easily found and
reapired, of course!) Is this worry misplaced?
I had thought about finding 1.5" sections of some thin pipe and use
those to line stud holes so that a nail or screw can't penetrate the
wire.
Any thoughts on this subject much appreciated.
robi...@hawaii.rr.com
protector plates for studs. These are metal plates about 2 inches wide by 3
inches long with stamped burrs so you can tap them onto the edge of a stud
adjacent to the hole. They prevent both drywall screws now and picture hook
nails later from being driven into the wires. These should already be in
place where the electrical wires are run. The cost for these is next to
nothing.
Crude illustration:
| |
|| _ |
|| / \ |
|| \_/ |
|| |
| |
Looking at the stud from the side you see the hole in the center for the
wire and the plate attached to the left edge.
Jerry Fountain
Look for them in the electrical department. They are required by code for
exactly the reasons you cite (wire hit by nail/screw). You can buy them in
boxes of a hundred at Home Depot, and possibly larger quantities.
In article <k07V4.4719$XW1....@typhoon.hawaii.rr.com>,
--
Jerry Fountain | Laboratory for Fluid Mechanics, Chaos, and Mixing
g...@chem-eng.nwu.edu | Northwestern University
(847) 491-3555 (Office) | Department of Chemical Engineering
(847) 491-3728 (FAX) | 2145 Sheridan Road, Evanston, IL 60208
William C. Bub
1-1/4" from edge of stud to edge of hole for house wiring. This means with
1/2" drywall, the hole will be at least 1-3/4" from the wall face, and will
not be hit by standard 1-5/8" screws. Holes closer to the edge must be
protected as described by previous posters. This should be a safe bet for
low-voltage cables as well. Generally this means drilling each 2x4 stud
right in the center.
Robbie52 <robb...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000519164331...@ng-cm1.aol.com...
> So you can impress the store clerk,
> just ask for:
>
> "NAIL STOP PLATES"
>
> Good Luck
>
>
Charles Smith
were first required by the Federal Housing Authority. They are not
required by code if you bore a 5/8" or smaller hole directly in the
center of the stud for the wire. For audio, data, security, phone, and
TV you won't even need that big of a hole.
Just a friendly suggestion. If you put up a lot of them unnecessarly
you will irratate the sheet rock crew. Most of them are paid by the
sheet and picking screws out of the rock that hit the plates slows
them down. If construction workers are the same where you live as here
they will find a way to get back at you. So putting the plates up
where they are not required just may get your wires cut! Since must
general contractors let the homeowner install cable only at the
homeowner's risk you would pay for the drywall repair after digging
out and repairing the wiring.
Robert L Bass
can be tacked onto the studs (both sides) where cables pass through close to the
surface. Sheetrock screws will not pass through them.
--
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
The Online DIY Alarm Store
http://www.Bass-Home.com
80 Bentwood Road
West Hartford, CT 06107
877-922-8900 Sales & Tech Support
941-925-9747 voice (Florida)
860-561-5210 fax
alar...@home.com
=============================>
William Kornfeld <korn...@kornfeld.com> wrote in message
news:3924BCBE...@kornfeld.com...
: I will shortly be wiring a new home for audio, security, data, etc. I'm