What punchdown block to use?!?
None Entered
network to approximately 15 locations?
I am confused between the unbridged and bridged blocks. Can anyone
give me the differences between these two?!? Help!!!
Thanks,
Freddie
Dave Methvin
with RJ45 plugs (for ROUND SOLID cable) and plugged them directly into the
hub. This saved the cost of a patch panel and cables. The reason a lot of
people don't like doing this is that it's sometimes tricky to put the plugs
on and you might have signal problems. However, I've done probably 50 myself
and the only problem I've ever had is crossing a wire when I wasn't paying
attention. The crimping tool ran me about $50 and the plugs are around $1
each.
For phone I used RJ66 blocks. The ones I got were the "split" (unbridged)
blocks that have four punchdown clips per row. The left two and right two
are electrically connected. If you want to connect the two sides together,
you use (wait for it) a "bridging clip". It lets you wire all the locations
up but not make the wires live until you use them. That reduces crosstalk
and noise problems. The phone guy left a couple of RJ66 blocks and a handful
of bridging clips for free when he put in the lines (you just gotta sweet
talk them) but I think they cost about $8 each. The punchdown tool was about
$40 as I recall.
"None Entered" <no...@entered.com> wrote in message
news:mnu6dtot8t6k0skbt...@4ax.com...
J.V.
distribution. It takes one input and "bridges" it to 9 outputs.
Since you need 15 locations, you can get two of them and let the 9th
connection of the first block feed the 1st connection on the 2nd
block. That will provide you up to 17 outputs.
You definitely want the "bridged" model.
You can go to Leviton's website and download their PDF catalog of
telecommunications products:
http://www.leviton.com/pdfs/d-502/d-502s.pdf
The 1x9 bridge is on page S52 (PDF page 53) of the catalog.
Home depot happens to carry these for about $25.00 each.
On Tue, 10 Apr 2001 17:31:26 -0400, None Entered <no...@entered.com>
wrote:
Alan McKay
> distribution. It takes one input and "bridges" it to 9 outputs.
> Since you need 15 locations, you can get two of them and let the 9th
> connection of the first block feed the 1st connection on the 2nd
> block. That will provide you up to 17 outputs.
You can check out my panel at :
http://www2.alanmckay.com/~amckay/ha/panel/
For distributing regular analog phone you can see my "generic strip".
You take a piece of wire (I used CAT5) and loop it back and forth
and punch down every 2nd spot on the strip. Then you take another
piece and do the same thing with the spots you missed. This strip
then goes into the panel with the wires you just punched down facing
inward, leaving the outward-facing part of the generic strip with no
connections so you can punch down stuff as below.
Now you bring your telco source (from what we here call the "demarc point")
into one pair on the front and punch them down, and on the other pairs you
punch down the wires coming from each room of the house. If you have
DSL you take the wires in the generic strip and cut the loops on the 4th
pair, leaving you 3 pair on one part of the strip, and the rest on another.
Bring your demarc into the first pair on the 3. The 2nd pair from there
goes into your DSL modem, and the 3rd pair goes through a DSL filter
and then punches down to the 1st pair on the other part of the strip that
you just split in 2. You then punch down all the home-runs from all the
rooms to the remainder of the pairs on that 2nd, larger part of the strip.
I know that with Norstar, at least, our digital phones run over regular
home-run single pair. So once you have this done you are already
prepared for your Key System to be installed at a future date. As long
as you still have analog keep it punched as above, but when you
finally can afford the Key System, the only changes you have to make
are at the punch panel, moving the home-run pairs off this common
strip and onto where your Key System sets punch down. You obviously
also have to replace your analog sets with digital ones (or in our case
we can support regular analog sets, too).
I'll be doing that part soon enough and will document it as I go along.
On my whole panel you can see the top 2 rows are RJ45 CAT5 for
my ethernet. This weekend I will punch the home-run wires from the
rooms each down onto one of those jacks (2 pair on each). I will then
use regular double-ended male RJ45 cables to jack that into the
front of my 100baseT switch (photos to come).
Below the 2 rows of RJ45 you can see 2 rows of RJ11 (12 on each).
I'll be using the top strip to punch down the pairs from each room, and
the bottom strip will punch back to my BCM Key System. The BCM
has an Analog Station Module and a Digital Station Module, and I'll
punch down 6 of each onto this strip on the panel (though the modules
support 8 and 16 respectively). I will then be able to use short double-
ended RJ11 cables to quickly cross-connect a digital or analog set to
any jack in any room as required. If I only had all analog or all digital
from the BCM, I would probably punch it all down directly onto a
single generic strip (BCM on back, rooms on front), but since I can
support both I use the dual RJ11 female strips to allow for the flexibility
of very quick changes from analog to digital if required or desired.
cheers,
-Alan
BruceR
blocks punching the station cables down on one side and the dial tone down
the other. Then connect the lines to the station cables by using bridging
clips across the center terminals. The advantage here is that you can
isolate trouble on any station cable by just lifting one pair of bridging
clips at a time without repunching anything. Trust me, over time you WILL
need to do this. Particularly for telephone, I prefer 66 blocks since
they're easier to troubleshoot with a butt set.
"J.V." <joh...@gte.net> wrote in message
news:6ab9dtcg5c9gu7974...@4ax.com...
: Leviton makes a convenient 110 punchdown block for telephone
:
Pungli
incoming
phone line to lets say 5 phone in the house using just a 66 block and
bridging
clips? In my knowledge, 66 block clips can only bridge horizontally and not
vertical (unless there is a bridged 66 blcok, I dont know of). Let me draw a
little for you.
outside home
line lines
-------# #=# #----- 1st ext
-------# #=# #-----
# # # #----- 2nd ext
# # # #-----
# # # #----- 3rd ext
# # # #-----
# # # #----- 4th ext
# # # #-----
# # # #----- 5th ext
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
My ASCII drawing may get screwed up due to font problems.
If you see here, the 1st ext gets the outside line right, but how do I also
connect 2nd, 3rd, etc to the outside line? Even if I put clips on, it will
have nothing to connect to on the left side.
Thanks.
I have asked this before on this NG. Didn't get satisfactory replies.
Bob
news:9b2tld$r...@news.or.intel.com...
> Can you describe with a little ascii drawing how will you connect one
> incoming
> phone line to lets say 5 phone in the house using just a 66 block and
> bridging
> clips? In my knowledge, 66 block clips can only bridge horizontally
and not
> vertical (unless there is a bridged 66 blcok, I dont know of).
It's common practice to daisy-chain wires across multiple terminals on a
66-type block. Usually the blade on the impact tool is reversible --
one end cuts the wire and the other doesn't.
Start out with a wire on the second terminal in the first row (under the
bridge clip). Chain it to the first terminal in the third, fifth,
seventh, and ninth rows. Do the same with the even-numbered rows. Then
put on bridging clips to complete the circuit to the extensions.
Jay R. Ashworth
Pungli <pun...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Can you describe with a little ascii drawing how will you connect one
> incoming phone line to lets say 5 phone in the house using just a 66
> block and bridging clips? In my knowledge, 66 block clips can only
> bridge horizontally and not vertical (unless there is a bridged 66
> blcok, I dont know of). Let me draw a little for you.
Certainly. You'll be punching the "trunk(s; in your case, just one)"
down on the first column, alternating tip and ring. You'll be punching
the "stations" down on the fourth column, same way.
On the *second* column (trunk side), switch your punch tool to
non-cut, split a pair of "frame wire" (unjacketed 1-pair jumper wire),
and punch the appropriate colors down in an alternating pattern:
white/color: pins 1, 3, 5, 7, 9
color/white: pins 2, 4, 6, 8, 10
You should end up with 2 wires "snaking" their way down that third
column; they won't stick up enough to get in the way of the bridge
clips.
Why the *second* column? Makes it easier to decide which phone is
broken before calling in help, at the expense of making it harder to
make the overall decision *to* call for help (you'll have to pull all N
sets of clips, and possibly test with a buttset.
Cheers,
-- jra
--
Jay R. Ashworth j...@baylink.com
Member of the Technical Staff Baylink
The Suncoast Freenet The Things I Think
Tampa Bay, Florida http://baylink.pitas.com +1 727 804 5015
BruceR
(Tip) and the even rows (Ring) using the non-cut end of your 66 blade and
add bridging clips as shown below (=). However, let's assume you're using
4 pair station cable and have 2 lines. The diagram would be as shown below
and you'd be daisy chaining like numbered pins.
With this arrangement if there's a lot of static on the line and you can
see what's causing it by pulling one pair of bridging at a time you'll find
the station causing the problem.
: outside home
: line lines
: ------# T1=# #----- 1st ext, line 1
: ------# R1=# #-----
: ------# T2=# #----- 1st ext, line 2
: ------# R2=# #-----
: # # # #----- 1st ext, spare
: # # # #-----
: # # # #----- 1st ext, spare
: # # # #-----
: # T1=# #----- 2nd ext, line 1
: # R1=# #-----
: # T2=# #----- 2nd ext, line 2
: # R2=# #-----
: # # # #------ 2nd ext, spare
: # # # #------
: # # # #------ 2nd ext, spare
: # # # #------
.....and so on
: My ASCII drawing may get screwed up due to font problems.
: > :
: >
: >
:
:
Pungli
I know exactly what to do now. I thought about this way but ended up
trashing the
idea thinking it will look messy. It seems this is *the* practice so not
need to worry.
I am very cheap and so can't afford the 110 patch panels and stuff. After
all its just
the phone. I will only have about 5 or so hooked to it, and have already
followed the thread
in this NG where peoople talked extensively on the topic of "how many phone
you can hook up?"
BruceR <bru...@whoeverDOT.com> wrote in message
news:kGbB6.231$AR6....@typhoon.hawaii.rr.com...
None Entered
I think I will go with the Leviton 1x9 bridging telephone module.
Some of the posts indicate that it might not be the most efficient but
I think it will be easier. Is this accurate?
Thanks again,
Freddie
Pungli
cabinet,
there is not real good way to mount it on the wall. Its just a PCB with 110
terminals
on one side. Nothing more, nothing less. IMO, its not very sturdy and is
hard to put
on the wall. 66 will cost less and will be much more flexible. 66's are not
that hard to
put togather.
None Entered <no...@entered.com> wrote in message
news:hmmcdtc06hvi42qa5...@4ax.com...
J.V.
66 blocks take up more room than 110 blocks. Of course, this factor
depends on how much room one has in their telecommunications closet.
Jack Stevens
--
Jack Stevens
You never fail until you stop trying!
Visit our web site at http://www.alarm-company.com
"None Entered" <no...@entered.com> wrote in message
news:hmmcdtc06hvi42qa5...@4ax.com...
Jay R. Ashworth
> trashing the idea thinking it will look messy. It seems this is *the*
> practice so not need to worry.
Well, it's the practice if that's what you want to do.
That's not really the recommended way to *do* it, but that's another
issue.
> I am very cheap and so can't afford the 110 patch panels and stuff.
Note that you want to do this with 66's, not 110's.
> After all its just the phone. I will only have about 5 or so hooked
> to it, and have already followed the thread in this NG where peoople
> talked extensively on the topic of "how many phone you can hook up?"
Yep. "As many as you want, as long as no more than 4 or 5 *ring*."
Robert L Bass
will usually be fine. For example, you could have 10 phones that ring if
each has an REN less than 0.5.
--
Regards,
Robert L Bass
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"Jay R. Ashworth" <j...@dorothy.msas.net> wrote in message
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