How to drill Pella window magnetic contacts
Bill F
I'm about to drill into my new (and expensive!) Pella casement windows to
add magnetic contacts for my alarm system. Can anyone recommend a Sentrol
magnetic contact and a good procedure to follow so I won't have to explain
to my wife that we need all new windows? The windows are wood-framed and
I'm a newbie at this, so any tips on drill bits, etc, would also be most
helpful.
Thanks in advance.
BF
BruceR
"Bill F" <wef...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:z5Iu9.35043$cG.4...@twister.kc.rr.com...
Robert L. Bass
I wrote a FAQ page which details the way I like to do this. Here's the
link.
http://www.bass-home.com/faq/Casement_Window.cfm
The technique I use does not involve drilling the sash so there won't be any
chance of cracking the glass or incurring warranty issues with Pella. It's
easiest to do this while the home is under construction (open walls), but it
can still be done after the fact (a bit more work).
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
The Online DIY Alarm Store
http://www.Bass-Home.com
2291 Pine View Circle
Sarasota, FL 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support
941-925-9747 Fax
rober...@comcast.net
=============================>
Dave Houston
switches.
"BruceR" <bru...@SPAMwhoever.com> wrote:
BruceR
less units are quite small and unobtrusive. I use them in my own home
and installed an entire system for a 7800sf home without using a drill
on any windows. You'd have to really look carefully to find the sensors.
"Dave Houston" <dhou...@fuse.net> wrote in message
news:3dbec447....@nntp.fuse.net...
Robert L. Bass
(RF+wired) system fairly discreet. There are some pretty reliable ones
around -- ITI, Caddx and Napco for example. However, there are certain
distinct advantages to a wired system when it can be fitted. For one, wired
sensors will almost never become obsolete, whereas wireless components --
all of them -- will typically do so within a period of five or ten years.
If a wired system fails and some master component is not replaceable the
control panel and keypads must go. Once a wireless system is dropped by the
manufacturer if anything significant fails the whole system may have to be
replaced.
While RF transmitters have improved dramatically in recent years, they are
by definition more likely to fail than hard wired units simply because they
are more complex. The degree of difference here may be insignificant with
high quality systems though.
RF transmitters are almost invariable larger and more intrusive than
recessed or even many surface mounted hard wired magnetic sensors. Note
that there are a few recessed RF transmitters on the market which can be
used for some doors and some windows. None of them are appropriate for
casement windows, most aluminum sashes and many hollow vinyl sashes. There
are exceptions, of course, but I'm trying to be general.
More specific to the current thread, the Pella windows can be wired using a
concealed, miniature magnetic "contact" and IMO that is the best approach if
the client can run a wire. Obviously during construction that should not be
an issue. Since this is a new construction project I would not consider a
wireless solution.
In addition to the above, wireless hardware costs significantly more than
wired security systems. In a mid-sized home an RF system can easily cost
tow to three times a wired system of equal quality.
These are my opinions based on many years in the alarm trade. As always,
YMMV.
Pete C
wrote:
I did my Pella casements about a year and a half ago and was able to
do it with the walls open. I used a shorty 3/8" contact into the
frame, and could fish the wires thru to the stud space.
There is a bit of an offset that has to be made as the proper location
on the frame to meet the sash leaves you outside of the house framing.
You have to drill just thru the aluminum clad and the first board of
the window frame you hit coming from that side (wap a piece of tape
around the bit to visualize the depth).
Then drill thru the stud and the first board of the window frame you
hit coming from that side.
Bend a hook onto the end of a peice of coat hanger wire and slip it
into the hole from the stud side and go fishin' for the wire you're
trying to poke thru from the other side.
I put a dap of silicone sealant in the hole just as I pushed the
contact in (even made a template for the hole locations so I'd hit
them all the same, had 20+ to do)
I used the button type magnets on the sash side to minimize any
chances of damage (they're about 5/8" dia and 1/8 "thick) , the hole
is much shallower for these, or maybe they fit in the standard
clearance between the frame and sash and I didn't have to drill at all
, don't really remember, it was a year and a half ago and it's dark
out now so I can't go look : )
PeteC
Bill F
warranty on very expensive windows. In my case the cove molding is already
in place. Is it difficult to remove? I didn't have a good chance to look
at them before the molding was installed. My Wonder Bar would probably do
some damage, but maybe a putty knife would do it?
Thanks!
BF
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:XaycndaGb6m...@giganews.com...
Robert L. Bass
It's not hard to remove until the carpenter nails it in place. After that,
you need to use another technique. Drill up from under the window with a
1/4" by 16" bit (alarm guys sometimes refer to this as a "feeler" bit).
Drill slowly and don't push. Let the drill do the work. That way you won't
go through the molding.
On some casement windows you can also drill down at an angle with the same
bit. Put the tip of the bit into the concealed space below the molding
while holding the drill motor outside the open window. The hole can be made
very close to the outer edge as long as it's under the molding. The bit
will come out in the wall cavity after piercing the window frame, passing
through the narrow shim space and the horizontal 2x4 on which the window
casing rests.
The rest you already know.
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
The Online DIY Alarm Store
http://www.Bass-Home.com
2291 Pine View Cir
Sarasota, FL 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Support
941-925-9747 Fax
rober...@comcast.net
=============================>
"Bill F" <wef...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:kDnv9.144710$w63.2...@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
Malcolm W
news:i60prug2djd9e4uj0...@4ax.com...
>
> I used the button type magnets on the sash side to minimize any
> chances of damage (they're about 5/8" dia and 1/8 "thick) , the hole
> is much shallower for these, or maybe they fit in the standard
> clearance between the frame and sash and I didn't have to drill at all
> , don't really remember, it was a year and a half ago and it's dark
> out now so I can't go look : )
The magnets go on the dangerous side (the glass) so I did the same thing.
MightyMag from GRI. www.grisk.com I think.
Bill F
the house to the inside. It make sense. What I'm not sure about, however,
is if the contact is 3/8" diameter (most are it seems), do I then re-drill
the 1/4" hole straight up and down in order to have the contact fit flush
with the sill? Or does the contact reside to the house-side of the window
(indoors)? I'm not sure if the contact is on the sill or the frame/molding
where the sash touches when closed.
Thanks! I'm starting to catch on...
BF
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lqqdncJYsfw...@giganews.com...
Robert L. Bass
small, rectangular piece that sits on the surface inside the crank
retraction area beneath the decorative trim on the casement window. Please
click the link below to view my FAQ on this. I'm certain the simple sketch
I drew there will make it easier to understand than my limited writing
skills. :^)
http://www.bass-home.com/faq/Casement_Window.cfm
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
The Online DIY Alarm Store
http://www.Bass-Home.com
2291 Pine View Cir
Sarasota, FL 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Support
941-925-9747 Fax
rober...@comcast.net
=============================>
"Bill F" <wef...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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