THe problem is the orange mask on the negative.
I tried to remove it by using an inverted orange
mask - I picked up the orange color from the
leader of the scanned negative. And then I
inverted the RGB curves, but this did not help.
Any comments, help greatly appreciated.
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
The Problem is, that you scan the negatives with a normal
flatbed-scanner. Unlike with normal paper you have to send
light *through* the negatives to get something to work with.
Bye,
Simon
--
Simon...@unix-ag.org http://www.home.unix-ag.org/simon/
Some scanners have attachments for this; for instance, my Microtek scanner
does. It's intended for slide film though, so the original poster's color
correction question is still valid. I haven't played with it much myself
though, so I'll have to try it some time.
>>The Problem is, that you scan the negatives with a normal
>>flatbed-scanner. Unlike with normal paper you have to send
>>light *through* the negatives to get something to work with.
>
> Some scanners have attachments for this; for instance, my Microtek scanner
> does. It's intended for slide film though, so the original poster's color
> correction question is still valid. I haven't played with it much myself
> though, so I'll have to try it some time.
Basically I believe, that <Image>->Image->Colors->Invert and
<Image>->Image->Colors->Auto->Stretch Contrast should do the
main portion of the trick, esp. when there is black and white
in the Photo or the scan contains parts of the negative border
(Orange and black, no white parts).
However, I never tested this intensively.
I found this link,
http://www.interlog.com/~pinkster/photo/neg2pos/neg2posa.html
where the web-owner has shown how to convert a negative
to positive. The difference is that he is using a film scanner
that can scan only slides.
In my case, I am using a flatbed scanner without any attachments.
The scanned image appears very much like a negative with orange
mask.
If you guys get a chance to check out that site and something
clicks, please let me know. I have a 600x1200 flatbed scanner without
any provision for doing negative scanning. I was just hopping
to get decent scans from negatives as a low cost solution.
Thanks,
Paresh
In article <39a8...@si-nic.hrz.uni-siegen.de>,
His results look nice! Even backlit though, a normal flatbed scanner is
pretty limited due to the resolution; 600dpi isn't much on a 35mm frame, so
for some things a film scanner would be needed. Better than nothing, though.
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e-mail: de...@jusline.com
>where the web-owner has shown how to convert a negative
>to positive. The difference is that he is using a film scanner
>that can scan only slides.
>
>In my case, I am using a flatbed scanner without any attachments.
All that shows with a negative scan is a blur with orange on top.
You need to get the light THROUGH the negastive and back to the
acanner.
The only way I can think of is perhaps a small mirror behind the
negative.
Tsu Dho Nimh
When businesses invoke the "protection of consumers," it's a lot like
politicians invoking morality and children - grab your wallet and/or
your kid and run for your life.
>Here's another site which deals with scanning slides using a flatbed scanner:
>
> http://www.afn.org/~afn11300/slides.html
This might work for negatives too. Just experiment with light
colors.
>Can Anyone send me a scanned negative? Because I don't have a scanner
>and also want to solve that problem! thank you!
I've put up one that I did last night, start at: http://209.202.59.60/~tim/
If it's not accessible, my kids are playing games in Windoze, so try back
later. :-) It won't likely be up for long, though, it's just a temp page I
put up for this sort of thing.
It was done at 600 d.p.i., with the "Lightlid 35" accessory which came with
the scanner. It works OK, but you can still see why film scanners are better
if you really need this sort of thing. Anyway, it does provide a backlight,
and the scanner turns off the normal lamp.
The GIMP-specific part (roughly the right order - it was late <grin>):
- I scanned with XScan, using auto-levels for the selected part of the
preview.
- A sample of the background border color was used to fill a new layer,
which was inverted and set to "overlay" mode.
- Flatten
- I used image -> levels (auto) to adjust the basic color balance. Further
tweaking would likely help, but this was a good start.
Anyway, there's a sample, and a start to the process. Hope this helps!
- Tim
> Anyway, there's a sample, and a start to the process. Hope this helps!
Hmm - I'd be more interested in the negative *before* you did something
to it with gimp...
>Hmm - I'd be more interested in the negative *before* you did something
>to it with gimp...
Before? It didn't look like much, I'm afraid. Send me an email to remind me,
and I'll do one up later; I never saved that intermediate step the first time.
--
Peace, n.:
In international affairs, a period of cheating between two
periods of fighting.
-- Ambrose Bierce, "The Devil's Dictionary"
> --
> Peace, n.:
> In international affairs, a period of cheating between two
> periods of fighting.
> -- Ambrose Bierce, "The Devil's Dictionary"
--
>Now I also have a flatbed scanner! But when I try to scan negatives I
>get only a black picture. What do I do wrong??
You need to have light shining THROUGH negative into scanner.
Read the early posts in this thread and check out the sites
mentioned.
Thanks for the link. I tried scanning using Don Maxley's
triangular home made TMA, but it also does not work.
Maybe using a reflective flatbed scanner, though it gives
a scanned image that looks very much like a negative, it
must be screwing up the colors. So I am giving up for the time being
till I find some other way.
I will try to post a scanned image for anyone interested in
playing around with the color correction.
Thanks to all,
Paresh
This has been a very useful thread. I have now scanned several damaged
B&W negatives and now am using the Gimp on almost a pixel by pixel basis
to restore the "original picture"
The technique at http://www.afn.org/~afn11300/slides.html is good. My
negatives are 70x45 mm and for a diffuser, simply cut out a 80x50 mm
piece from a 2ltr plastic milk bottle. I used a 15w fluoro about 30cm
above the negative.
>The only way I can think of is perhaps a small mirror behind the
>negative.
This seems to be a good idea which I will try.
Owen