Cable Modem Humming Noise Question
Joe
noise even though it is working fine. Could this be first signs of failure?
.... I own my own.
The noise level is so low, that to hear it from about a foot away I have to
power down everything except the cable modem. It almost sounds like a small
transformer buzzing quietly. I power cycled it to see it stops but it made
no difference.
Also, I have not plugged it into a surge protector ..... my cable company
recommends it be plugged directly into a wall socket plug ..... does that
sound right?
I've been using it without problems for about a year now and just curious if
other folks modems are also emitting a low noise too.
Thanks ....
James R. DeLoach
>My Toshiba PCX11000 external cable modem emits a faint humming or buzzing
>noise even though it is working fine. Could this be first signs of failure?
>.... I own my own.
Sounds normal. It's not uncommon for the transformers in appliances
to hum. Some are louder than others. I'd say it's just a nuisance.
If it's still in warranty, you might get it replaced otherwise you'll
probably have to live with it.
>
>The noise level is so low, that to hear it from about a foot away I have to
>power down everything except the cable modem. It almost sounds like a small
>transformer buzzing quietly. I power cycled it to see it stops but it made
>no difference.
Power cycling shouldn't have any effect on it. Make sure it is
sitting on a flat surface. It might just be a vibration that you are
hearing.
Joe
one and I just now noticed it when I am having some true peace and quiet in
the house for the first time in years ...... wife and kids went off to
grandma's for Christmas while I had to stay for some needed OT work on job.
What about the direct plugging into a wall socket as recommended by the
cable company?
I would think you would want it plugged into a surge protector, but then
again I'm not an electronics guy.
Thanks again.
"James R. DeLoach" <jasd...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:mucc2u4al4d0c29ke...@4ax.com...
James R. DeLoach
>Thanks .... I can barely hear it and it probably always did this from day
>one and I just now noticed it when I am having some true peace and quiet in
>the house for the first time in years ...... wife and kids went off to
>grandma's for Christmas while I had to stay for some needed OT work on job.
>
>What about the direct plugging into a wall socket as recommended by the
>cable company?
>
I don't think it is necessary that it be plugged directly in the wall.
>I would think you would want it plugged into a surge protector, but then
>again I'm not an electronics guy.
>
I don't see anything wrong with plugging it in to a surge protector.
Should help extend the life of the modem and it's power supply.
I have my cable modem plugged in to a UPS because my electricity
goes out occasionally.
>Thanks again.
>
>
>"James R. DeLoach" <jasd...@attbi.com> wrote in message
>news:mucc2u4al4d0c29ke...@4ax.com...
>> On Sun, 23 Dec 2001 19:16:14 GMT, "Joe" <j...@yahoe.com> wrote:
>>
>> >My Toshiba PCX11000 external cable modem emits a faint humming or buzzing
>> >noise even though it is working fine. Could this be first signs of
>failure?
>> >.... I own my own.
>>
>> Sounds normal. It's not uncommon for the transformers in appliances
>> to hum. Some are louder than others. I'd say it's just a nuisance.
>> If it's still in warranty, you might get it replaced otherwise you'll
>> probably have to live with it.
>>
>> >
>> >The noise level is so low, that to hear it from about a foot away I have
>to
>> >power down everything except the cable modem. It almost sounds like a
>small
>> >transformer buzzing quietly. I power cycled it to see it stops but it
>made
>> >no difference.
>>
>> Power cycling shouldn't have any effect on it. Make sure it is
>> sitting on a flat surface. It might just be a vibration that you are
>> hearing.
>>
>>
>
Regards,
James
Note: To reply by email, remove the "X" in the reply to address.
Jay Bollyn
news:pJqV7.1947$vr4....@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att.net...
> <snip>
>
> What about the direct plugging into a wall socket as recommended by the
> cable company?
>
> I would think you would want it plugged into a surge protector, but then
> again I'm not an electronics guy.
>
> Thanks again.
I plug everything into two Kensington MasterPiece Control Center devices,
which in turn are plugged into an APC 650 Back-UPS Pro. Never had a problem
with this arrangement.
I don't remember why the cable company says that.
Dave
They probaly recommend plugging the modem into the wall because many folks
use the surge protector as a "power center". If you turn your modem off you
have to wait for it to sync up. Slows down connection time.
"Joe" <j...@yahoe.com> wrote in message
news:pJqV7.1947$vr4....@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att.net...
Jay Bollyn
news:GDrV7.6403$8L1.57033@rwcrnsc52...
> Joe,
> They probaly recommend plugging the modem into the wall because many
folks
> use the surge protector as a "power center". If you turn your modem off
you
> have to wait for it to sync up. Slows down connection time.
>
Your explanation makes sense. When I power down at night, I use the power
button on the PC system unit. Everything else is powered on 24/7.
Joe
surge protection from it's rear outlets?
If I am wrong, then is it better to plug the UPS into a surge protector that
in turn is plugged into the house outlet, or the other way around, or does
it matter?
"Jay Bollyn" <jbo...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:a05f9t$j517f$1...@ID-119496.news.dfncis.de...
Jay Bollyn
> Thanks Jay .... I thought a good UPS like you are using would also provide
> surge protection from it's rear outlets?
>
> If I am wrong, then is it better to plug the UPS into a surge protector
that
> in turn is plugged into the house outlet, or the other way around, or does
> it matter?
>
I plug all essential devices (router, switch, cable modem, system unit,
monitor) into the 2 MasterPiece devices because they (together) provide
approximately 10 sockets. (I leave both MPs powered on 24/7.) I am basically
ignoring the surge suppression provided by the MPs. I like the MPs because
they are stackable. I have the cable modem, router and switch on top of the
two stacked MPs. I plug the power cord from each MP device into the 650.
On the back of the 650 are three sockets labeled 'battery back-up', and
three sockets labeled "accessory surge protection.' (They are color coded.)
I plug the 2 MPs into two of the 'battery back-up' sockets, leaving one
available. I do not use the three ASP sockets. I guess you could use them
for non-essential stuff like desk lamp, sound system, etc.
(The line conditioning of the 650 is superior to the LC of the MPs.)
This arrangement make the most sense to me. If I need to plug something in
on a temp basis, like a laptop, I have plenty of sockets available.
James Knott
> My Toshiba PCX11000 external cable modem emits a faint humming or
> buzzing
> noise even though it is working fine. Could this be first signs of
> failure? .... I own my own.
Is it humming "This lan is your lan. This lan is my lan...." ? ;-)
--
To reply to this message, replace everything to the left of "@" with
james.knott.
Joe
Joe
"James Knott" <bit_b...@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:JduV7.81331$pa1.27...@news3.rdc1.on.home.com...
w_tom
what the device does. Your surge protector will not do what you speculate.
Surge protection is the earth ground. A surge protector is only effective
when it connects a surge, less than 10 feet, to that central earth ground. It is
why 'whole house' surge protection is so effective. Ineffective surge
protection is too close to transistors and too far from earth ground to connect
that surge into the heart of surge protection - earth ground. How long is the
cord on the power strip surge protector? 6 feet? Add another 50 feet back to
the breaker box and already the power strip has all but no earth ground ... no
effective protection.
How to identify ineffective surge protection - it forgets to mention critical
earth ground. Why? Maybe you might ask some embarrassing questions? Serious
surge protection includes applications notes that repeatedly discuss earth
ground. The benchmark of surge protection is Polyphaser. Every application note
discusses earth ground - because a surge protector is only as effective as its
earth ground (which ineffective surge protectors forget to mention):
http://www.polyphaser.com/ppc_technical.asp
Even worse are power strip surge protectors connected into UPSes. When not in
battery backup mode, most plug-in UPSes connect appliances directly to AC mains -
no problem. But in battery backup mode, a plug-in UPS typically outputs such
dirty power that 1) the power strip can and has damaged some UPSes, and 2) the
dirty power can degrade a power strip surge protector. Item two can create
power strip damage that will not even cause that 'OK' indicator lamp to go out -
made obvious when 'how MOVs operate' is understood.
The bottom line: a surge protector is only as effective as its earth ground.
As for transformer humming - transformers use assembly techniques that must
seal all wires into position. One method is to evacuate all air from the
transformer core and dip that core into a varnish to such up the sealer. However
some transformers are improperly sealed meaning that some wires vibrate inside
the transformer - a nuisance to humans. Its a manufacturing defect that does not
affect transformer electrical operation. No surge protector or direct into AC
outlet will correct the problem - obvious if 'how surge protectors work' is
understood.
Joe
"w_tom" <w_t...@usa.net> wrote in message news:3C2687F0...@usa.net...
>>Even worse are power strip surge protectors connected into UPSes
Then I take it then that it is better to plug the UPS into a surge protector
rather than the other way around, if you still need the "false sense" of
security provide by looking at a strip surge protector on your desk?
I'll just forget about using a strip surge protector and simply continue
with plugging my UPS directly into my 3-hole wall plug and the CPU, Monitor
and Cable Modem PS into the back of the UPS outlets which offer some alleged
surge protection according to the spec sheet.
w_tom
power strip. Not only are they undersized at typically 345 joules, but they
both are too far from earth ground and too close to transistors to be
effective. Since computer power supplies already must withstand 1000 volt
differential mode and 2000 volt common mode transients, then what does that UPS
really provide? A plug-in UPS is for data protection from blackouts and
brownouts - especially important for systems using the obsolete FATxx file
systems since blackouts can destroy both the update file and the original file
on a hard drive.
We all require surge protection, but plug-in surge protection is not effective,
is undersized, AND is grossly overpriced compared to effective protection.
How effective is plug-in surge protection? View these scary pictures. They
even remove the surge protector components and it still claims to provide
protection:
http://www.zerosurge.com/truth.htm .
'Whole house' surge protection costs about $1 per effectively protected
appliance. One source is Home Depot - Intermatic EG240RC or Siemens QSA2020.
That would be effective protection because it is also less than 10 feet to
critical earth ground.
The power strip could be made more effective. Plug it into an outlet on the
breaker box so that is shunts some surge to ground. Of course this assumes your
household ground meets post 1990 requirements. Why is that so important? What
is the heart of a surge protection 'system'? That central earth ground. My
observation is that at lest two out of ten older homes don't even have
sufficient earthing meaning that no surge protector will be effective.
The UPS is for data protection - not effective for hardware protection.
Joe
was built in 1998 within the city limits of a major city in the Pacific
Northwest (Portland, Oregon) so I'm pretty sure it has grounding meeting
post 1990 requirements due to Portland's strict building codes.
I'll check into it including the whole house surge protection systems with
the electrical contractor that did my house .... he is a good guy and
friend. The entire section of the city suburb I'm in is fairly new with
all new underground utilities, etc (covering about a 10 square mile area).
Also, we rarely ever have any lighting storms up here (maybe once every 3
years for one or two nights) ...... unlike places like in Houston, etc.
But, I'm not sure that any of all this really means anything when it comes
to minimizing the potential for a major surge that could damage my home
electronics.
Joe ..... Merry Christmas to all .....
"w_tom" <w_t...@usa.net> wrote in message news:3C27E0EF...@usa.net...
w_tom
little CG lightning activity. However I understand some Oregon building codes
also require Ufer grounds meaning that those homes can have surge protection
superior to most every FL home.
Surge protection is little understood by electrical contractors. They are
versed in the NEC which only addresses human safety. We are talking about surge
protection - transistor safety. New homes today are still constructed as if the
transistor did not exist. Today, new buildings should be constructed more like
(but as not as extensively) telco Central Offices (COs), cell phone towers,
emergency response centers, etc. That might require making Ufer grounding
standard. Most electrical contractors today are so ill informed on surge
protection that they have never heard of Ufer grounding.
The NEC requires an earth ground to be less than 25 ohms. If ground is so
poor that 25 ohms does not exist, then the code calls for a second ground rod.
If 25 ohms is still not obtained, then the NEC declares that poor earthing
sufficient. The NEC does not even declare how to measure that 25 ohms.
Therefore only the rarest electrical contractor has any equipment to measure
earth ground.
25 ohms is considered sufficient for human safety. But for transistor
safety, earthing must be better. Some examples of why:
http://www.scott-inc.com/html/ufer.htm
http://lists.contesting.com/_towertalk/199909/0143.html .