When all these conditions are met, replacing the roof on your house is a viable DIY project, and you can save a bundle by hiring friends or local workers to help you instead of a roofing company. Be advised that you'll probably need a building permit before starting. You'll also need to conform to local regulations, which vary by region and climactic zone.
Rolls of self-stick underlayment have a plastic backing to prevent the material from sticking to itself. The backing is separated down the middle. Line up the lower edge of the roll with the outside of the drip edge. Peel back part of the uppermost backing on the roll, and nail the top corner of the underlayment to the decking. Start pulling the roll across the decking using the backing, ensuring the material is as flat and as straight as possible as you pull. Cut sheets to length as needed with a utility knife.
On warm days, self-stick underlayment will stick to clean decking without fasteners. Fasten it to the roof with staples or nails on colder days, but only fasten the top part of the underlayment until you go back and peel off the bottom half of the plastic backing. The higher the temperature outside, the stickier the adhesive on the rolls gets and the trickier it is to work with, so keep that in mind when you plan your project.
Cover the roof with roofing felt paper. If you installed an ice barrier, the felt paper goes on top of that; otherwise, it goes directly on the decking. I usually use lightweight 15-lb. paper unless local codes call for 30-lb. paper, or I plan to leave the paper exposed for more than a few days. Heavier paper wrinkles less and is less likely to tear when someone walks on it.
Start each course by driving several staples grouped close together, then unroll the felt and straighten out the row before you add more staples. Space staples approximately 12 inches apart. Work your way from the eave to the peak, laying the courses horizontally with the upper courses overlapping the lower ones by at least two inches. When you need two pieces of paper in the same row, overlap their seams by at least six inches. Use a utility knife for cutting.
Now is the time to install any vents for which you have cut openings. These usually come with their own flashing. Apply a bead of roof sealant along the underside of the flashing, set the vent or skylight in position over the opening and secure it by driving nails through the flashing. Put a dab of roof sealant on each nail head to prevent leaking.
Run a row of starter shingles with the leading edge a 1/2 inch beyond the drip edge. A starter shingle is half the width of a regular one, and it has an adhesive strip to hold down the shingles you place over it. Its purpose is to prevent water from leaking through the seams of the two shingles you place over it.
Install the upper rows on top of the flashing, cutting the shingles as needed to fit around the vent. When you nail the upper shingles, get as close as possible to the flashing, but avoid driving directly through it.
Start by running self-stick underlayment at least 6 inches up onto the walls. This provides an additional barrier if water does get past the flashing. Cover the front wall first, and then work your way up the side wall. Overlap the sidewall underlayment around the corner onto the front wall about one inch or so.
Install the shingles right up to the front wall. Cut a couple of inches off the vertical portion of the dormer flashing, and run the horizontal portion past the side wall that same distance. Nail the dormer flashing to both the wall and the shingles.
Make a 1 to 2-inch cut with tin snips at the bend in the first step flashing. Run a bead of sealant on the corner edge of the dormer flashing, and then run that step flashing past the dormer flashing the same distance you made your cut. With your hammer, bend the step flashing around the corner onto the dormer flashing.
This depends on where you live. The ideal weather for roofing is dry and not too hot or cold. In most parts of the country, that would be early to late spring and early to mid-fall. In temperate climates, you might be able to work throughout the summer without getting fried.
Installing a new roof can be dangerous. Two-story homes can be up to 30 feet high, and roofs may be steep depending on the roof style, making the surface difficult to walk on without falling. We recommend wearing safety gear and a harness while walking on your roof to reduce the risk of falls.
The tools and roofing materials also require adequate safety precautions. We recommend wearing gloves and protective eyewear when handling shingles, as the cut edges can be sharp and the surfaces are coarse. Shingles may also release granules that can get in your eyes.
Many roofing materials are available, and you should choose one based on your budget, location, and style preferences. For example, an asphalt shingle roof is a budget-friendly option, or you can install a clay tile roof for long-lasting protection against the sun and strong winds.
This step involves inspecting your existing roof for water damage, damaged flashing, and other potential problems. You should measure your roof and calculate the number of roof squares to order materials.
You will need a local city-level permit before you install a new roof. Your homeowners association (HOA) may also have specific rules and restrictions regarding what roofing materials and styles are allowed. A roofing contractor will handle this process for you and ensure your project complies with local building codes.
Take this opportunity to inspect the sheathing or roof decking, the edges of the roof, and the edges around the chimney and vents for damage. Replace the boards as needed before moving on to the next step.
Underlayment is a supplemental layer of material, such as felt paper, between the wood roof deck and the exterior roofing material. The entire surface of your roof should be covered with underlayment nailed or stapled into place, and the edges should overlap to reduce the risk of leaks.
Start installing the new materials, moving from the bottom of the roof up through each subsequent row. Each row of material should cover the fasteners of the row below so there are no holes for rain to get through.
Once the entire roof is covered, inspect each roof face for gaps, missed sections, or loose pieces. Then, gather up and dispose of excess material and trash. Whenever possible, keep a small amount of leftover materials to use in the event of future breakage. Also, reinstall the gutters and drip edges.
Installing a roof is hard work, and any mistakes can lead to leaks, expensive water damage, or pest infestations. We recommend hiring a professional roofing service unless you have DIY experience installing roofs. Call a roofing company to provide an inspection if your roof is old or has significant damage.
Roofing services can manage the entire roof replacement project on your behalf, including measuring your roof and ordering materials, removing the old roof, making repairs, and installing the new materials.
Professional roofers also have liability insurance in case of a problem and can provide long-lasting warranties. The most valuable advantages of hiring a professional roofer for your roofing project are convenience, increased safety, and peace of mind.
It takes at least two days to install a new roof. Small, asphalt shingle roofs with no underlying damage are the fastest to install. Concrete tile roof installation can take much longer. Factors such as roof complexity, underlying damage, and the time it takes to order materials can stretch out the project.
Installing a roof is not easy. It involves complex processes for removing the old roofing material, adding sheathing, installing the new materials, and ensuring the entire surface is watertight. We recommend hiring a professional roofing service to manage the project.
The best materials for roofing vary based on your climate. For example, clay tiles are durable, energy efficient, and strong but can crack if your area has hail storms. Asphalt shingles are less brittle and easy to replace but have a shorter life span than other materials. Homeowners should evaluate their options based on their property and location.
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The first step in a new roof installation is removing the old one. Asphalt roofing will be removed using a shingle fork. Starting at the top of the roof and working down, the shingle fork is used to tear off the old shingles.
If you have another type of roofing, the process looks a little different. For example, a metal roof is removed using a pry bar or drill to loosen the panels. Next, the ridge cap and fasteners for each meeting are removed. Moving from one edge of the roof to another, the process is repeated until all panels are removed.
Once the old roof is removed, the contractor will examine the entire roof deck. This component of your roof provides a base and structural support for the shingles and other roofing materials. They'll be looking for the following:
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