Home Overlock Machine

[Donat Ruel]

At400 for a Baby Lock serger, this machine is an excellent value with great performance. We appreciate this machine's easy-to-follow threading instructions and simple cleanup, thanks to a convenient trim bin that catches scraps as they fall. Offering four-, three- or two-thread serging and rolled hemming, this small, portable serger is up to any sewing challenge.

Note that higher-end Baby Lock machines offer jet-air threading (a touch of a button automatically pulls the threads through the machine), but this affordable model doesn't. If you're a sewer who sews regularly and you want to bring your projects to the next level, this is a great machine to have in your sewing arsenal.

It's versatile and simple to operate, impressing online reviewers who were new to sergers. As a beginner machine, however, it's not well suited for heavy-duty use with thicker fabrics. With more than 10,000 rave Amazon reviews, this trusty machine is beloved by many sewing enthusiasts.

The larger workspace with bright LED lighting is ideal when working with apparel pieces. All stitches were clean, with no imperfections, producing excellent results every time with a variety of fabric types. Note that this machine is bigger and heavier than others we tested, so it will take up more space in your sewing area.

If you're looking to upgrade your serger sewing machine, you may want to opt for a luxury pick like the Victory serger from Baby Lock. We were immediately impressed with this machine's powerful performance given its compact size: The knife easily sliced through thicker fabric layers, and the needle-threading system was simple to operate.

The well-labeled and color-coded graphics printed on the machine were helpful when threading for the first time, according to our testers. No need to adjust the tension; just set it to the right stitch and start immediately. The machine's tubular loopers help prevent mistakes during threading too. However, we found the dials a bit tough to grip because of the machine's glossy finish.

Many people learn how to sew on industrial JUKI machines, as they're common in classrooms because of their durable design with simple dials and functions. JUKI sergers have high-end features at a lower price point than most Baby Lock machines.

Compared with other serger styles, it's more portable, as it's lightweight and has a top-grip handle and thinner profile. This two-, three- or four-thread serger offers automatic rolled-hem capabilities and boasts an impressive 1,500 stitches per minute. Lacking color-coded threading instructions, this machine is better suited to sewers who have serger experience.

When you want both overlock and coverstitch capabilities, you usually need two different machines, but this clever device combines both. The luxury Baby Lock Accolade combo machine has a high price tag but unprecedented capabilities: jet-air threading; eight-, seven- or six-thread options for 87 stitches to combine overlock and coverstitching; and tubular loopers, so you can thread in any order.

If you already own a serger and want to upgrade your hems, add a coverstitch machine to your sewing toolbox. This affordable coverstitch machine from Brother pairs nicely with a Brother serger, as it has a similar color-coded threading system and tension dials.

The two-needle machine offers two-, three- or four-thread coverstitch functions, great for stretch fabrics, hems and necklines. Online reviewers note that you must manually release the tension before removing the fabric to prevent tears or stitch imperfections.

SINGER's Heavy Duty machine line is designed specifically to handle thicker fabrics. This serger is equipped with a larger knife to cut through denim, upholstery fabrics and multiple layers.

Offering two-, three- or four-thread capacity, it features eight built-in stitches and a speed of 1,300 stitches per minute. There's also a color-coded guide for easier threading and tension adjustments with a built-in rolled-hem plate. Note that this machine is not designed for delicate fabrics and can get quite loud, according to online reviewers.

Emma Seymour (she/her) is a senior product analyst at the Good Housekeeping Institute's Textiles, Paper and Apparel Lab, where she has led testing for luggage, pillows, towels, tampons and more since 2018. She graduated from Cornell University with a bachelor of science in fiber science and apparel design and a minor in gerontology, completing research in the Body Scanner Lab on optimizing activewear for athletic performance.

In celebration of the 55th Anniversary of the first household serger, the EF-205, Baby Lock is commemorating this milestone in sewing history by launching a new 55th Anniversary Limited Edition 4-Thread Serger. Keep reading below to learn more about the history of the 1st Baby Lock serger.

Later, at the same company that commenced household sewing machine manufacturing in 1949, Sakuma took on the role of assembling and repairing sewing machines. Witnessing an apprentice's lady at a client tailor, who consistently hand-sewed fabric edges, he couldn't help but sympathize, wondering, 'When will this lady receive lessons in the art of tailoring?'"

"Koichi Sakuma continued to ponder on a method to make sewing fabric edges swiftly and easily with a sewing machine, thinking, 'If she can effortlessly and quickly stitch fabric edges with a machine, this lady could learn the art of tailoring sooner and achieve independence faster.' In 1956, based on the idea he ultimately reached, Sakuma created a wooden prototype. He confirmed that the edge-sewing machine operated just as he envisioned."

"In 1958, at the age of 26, Koichi Sakuma consulted the company president about commercializing the edge-sewing machine. However, facing strong opposition from both the president and colleagues since the company had already withdrawn from manufacturing household sewing machines, Sakuma persisted. Driven by unwavering conviction in the utility of the 'edge-sewing machine,' he went ahead and physically created it. Unable to settle without testing it, he obtained permission for nighttime use of machinery, including a 'bucket of scrap metal.' After completing his regular work, he dedicated himself to prototyping the edge-sewing machine."

"In 1963, Koichi Sakuma's efforts bore fruit as the prototype of the edge-sewing machine was completed. When he showed the stitch samples made from the prototype to clients, they expressed surprise, saying, 'This stitch is called overlock and has been on industrial sewing machines since ancient times.' This was astonishing because Sakuma had unknowingly created a prototype of the edge-sewing machine without knowledge of industrial overlock machines. Despite initial disappointment, he was disheartened, thinking, 'If sewing machines already exist in the world, there's no need to create something new.' However, retailer advice emphasized that since household lockstitch machines didn't exist globally, there was significance in commercializing the developed edge-sewing machine. As a result, Sakuma's developed edge-sewing machine started moving towards commercialization."

The edge-stitching machine, when brought into production, distinguished itself by its petite appearance compared to the industrial lockstitch machines of the era. This characteristic led to the adoption of the renowned "baby lock" brand. It made its worldwide debut in February 1968 as the "baby lock EF-205."

In 2023, marking 55 years since the release of the "baby lock EF-205," it was recognized as a significant product by the National Museum of Nature and Science, Japan. The machine, originally categorized as an industrial small overlock sewing machine, played a pivotal role in pioneering new markets, leading to a shift in the classification from industrial to household machines. This accomplishment prompted its inclusion in the Essential Historical Materials for Science and Technology, acknowledging its contribution to altering the definitions of industrial and household sewing machines.

Based on the experience of my recent class, I thought an entry about how to feed or manage layers when sewing on an industrial machine would be helpful but realized I needed to provide more groundwork first. Speaking of the class, the context is I had two students who are primarily retailers (own 3 stores) who want to develop their own in-house sewing unit. One partner does a bit of sewing with home machines but is intimidated by industrials. To reduce the intimidation factor, I trained them on my three servo machines:

That reminds me, you may ask what is a servo? Servos are relatively new being one of two types of motors used on industrial machines. The other kind you may be more familiar with is a clutch motor. Clutch motors are noisy (I like the sound); servos are completely silent, as quiet or more than a home machine even at top speed. Stuart wrote a review of a servo motor.

Industrial machines are set up differently from home machines. With the latter, the motor is built into the machine head itself. The motor on industrials are separate, usually mounted to the underside of the table. This is useful because you can switch them out if they go bad.

The other difference between home and industrial machines that bears mentioning is that your usual price quote includes three things: the head, the motor and the table. In home sewing, it is just the head (motor built in). Because this is more typical than not, if you are quoted a price where this is not the case, the dealer or seller will always mention if it is head only, machine and motor only or no table included etc. In the normal course of affairs, you can assume the price quote includes table, motor and machine. In fact, dealers will often mention a possible upgrade to a better motor.

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