W210 Repair Manual

[Diante Scharsch]

OurOwners Manuals are based on easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions and advice, which enables you to carry out many, jobs yourself. Moreover, now you have the means to avoid those frustrating delays and inconveniences which so often result from not knowing the right approach to carrying out repairs which are often of a comparatively simple nature.

Two four-cylinder engines are fitted, available in two different capacities. In the category Four-cylinder Engines with 16 valves you will find two engines within the model years in question: All engines, however, belong to the engine type 111 or 271, depending on the model series, as described above.

One of the basic problems of a four stroke engine is the filling of the cylinders during the induction stroke with the necessary amount of the fuel/air mixture. The problem is made worse with increasing engine speed, as the opening period of the valves is shortened. Technicians refer to filling loss. To compensate the valve diameters are selected as large as possible so that more fuel/air mixture can enter, but the disadvantage is, of course, the larger diameter of the compression chamber.

This is the main reason for the introduction of the multi-valve technology. Four valve heads make up a larger opening area than two large valve heads and the size of the compression chamber can remain the same.

The so-called multi-link independent rear suspension comprises the rear axle carrier, provided with double-row angular ball bearings. The wheel carriers are guided by 5 specially located links, referred to as camber strut, pulling strut, pushing strut, track rod and spring links, the latter being the actual suspension arms. The hydraulic shock absorbers are fitted between the spring links and the body. A torsion bar is fitted to the spring links and the frame floor by means of a connecting link. The well-known level control system in other Mercedes Benz models is either fitted as standard or as an optional extra throughout the range.

The type identification plate is located at the R.H. side on the upper face of the radiator frame and contains the vehicle type, chassis number, permissible maximum weight and the permissible axle load on front and rear axle. The paint code is located in the plate opposite.

The chassis number can also be found in the engine compartment bulkhead. The first six numbers refer to the vehicle type, the 7th number refers to the steering and the 8th number to the transmission. The following six numbers are the actual serial number.

The code numbers and letters must always be quoted when parts are ordered. Copy the numbers on a piece of paper and take it to your parts supplier. You will save yourself and your parts department delays and will prevent you from ordering the wrong parts.

The servicing and overhaul instructions in this Workshop Manual are laid out in an easy-to-follow step-by-step fashion and no difficulty should be encountered, lf the text and diagrams are followed carefully and methodically. The Technical Data sections form an important part of the repair procedures and should always be referred to during work on the vehicle.

Bolts and nuts should be assembled in a clean and very lightly oiled condition and faces and threads should always be inspected to make sure that they are free from damage burrs or scoring. DO NOT degrease bolts or nuts.

All joint washers, gaskets, tabs and lock washers, split pins and O rings must be replaced on assembly. Seals will, in the majority of cases, also need to be replaced, if the shaft and seal have been separated. Always lubricate the lip of the seal before assembly and take care that the seal lip is facing the correct direction.

Always make sure that the vehicle is adequately supported, and on firm ground, before commencing any work on the underside of the car. A small jack or a make shift prop can be highly dangerous and proper axle stands are an essential requirement for your own safety.

Dirt, grease and mineral oil will rapidly destroy the seals of the hydraulic system and even the smallest amounts must be prevented from entering the system or coming into contact with the components. Use clean brake fluid or one of the proprietary cleaners to wash the hydraulic system parts. An acceptable alternative cleaner is methylated spirit, but if this is used, it should not be allowed to remain in contact with the rubber parts for longer than necessary. It is also important that all traces of the fluid should be removed from the system before final assembly.

Since the manufacturer uses metric units when building the cars it is recommended that, these are used for all precise units. Inch conversions are given in most cases but these are not necessarily precise conversions, being rounded off for the unimportant values.

Removal and installation instructions, in this Workshop Manual, cover the steps to take away or put back the unit or part in question. Other instructions, usually headed Servicing, will cover the dismantling and repair of the unit once it has been stripped from the vehicle it is pointed out that the major instructions cover a complete overhaul of all parts but, obviously, this will not always be necessary and should not be carried out needlessly.

There are a number of variations in unit parts on the range of vehicles covered in this Workshop Manual. We strongly recommend that you take care to identify the precise model, and the year of manufacture, before obtaining any spares or replacement parts.

The front end of the vehicle should be lifted up by placing a jack underneath the transverse crossmember of the front suspension as shown in Fig. 0.1, taking care not to damage the undercover for the engine compartment. To lift the rear end of the vehicle, place the jack underneath the rear axle centre piece, as shown in Fig. 0.1 on the R.H. side. Make sure the jack is sufficient to take the weight of the vehicle. The vehicle can also be jacked up on one side. In this case place the jack underneath the hard rubber inserts near the wheels, as shown in Fig. 0.2 on one side of the vehicle. Never place a jack underneath the oil sump or the gearbox to lift the vehicle.

Chassis stands should only be placed on the L.H. and R.H. sides under the side of the body without damage to the paintwork. Use chassis stands of the construction shown in Fig. 0.3, should be used, but again make sure that they are strong enough to carry the weight of the vehicle. Make sure the vehicle cannot slip off the stands.

Before lifting the front of the vehicle engage first or reverse gear when a manual transmission is fitted or place the gear selector lever into the P (park) position when an automatic transmission is fitted. Use suitable chocks and secure the front wheels when the rear end of the vehicle is jacked up.

Note: It is always difficult to raise a vehicle first on one side and then on the other. Take care that the vehicle cannot tip-over when the first side is lifted. Ask a helper to support the vehicle from the other side. Never work underneath the vehicle without adequate support.

As basic equipment in your tool box you will need a set of open-ended spanners (wrenches) to reach most of the nuts and bolts. A set of ring spanners is also of advantage. To keep the costs as low as possible we recommend a set of combined spanners, open-ended on one side and a ring spanner on the other side. Fig. 0.4 shows a view of the spanners in question. Sockets are also a useful addition to your tool set.

A set of cross-head screwdrivers, pliers and hammers or mallets may also be essential. You will find that many bolts now have a Torx head. In case you have never seen a Torx head bolt, refer to Fig. 0.5. A socket set with special t Torx head inserts is used to slacken and tighten these screws. The size of the bolts are specified by the letter T before the across-flat size.

Circlip pliers may also be needed for certain operations. Two types of circlip pliers are available, one type for external circlips, one type for internal circlips. The ends of the pliers can either be straight or angled. Fig. 0.6 shows a view of the circlip pliers. Apart from the circlip pliers you may also need the pliers shown in Fig. 0.7, i.e. side cutters, combination pliers and water pump pliers.

Every part of the vehicle is tightened to a certain torque value and you will therefore need a torque wrench, which can be adjusted to a certain torque setting. In this connection we will also mention a graduated disc, shown in Fig. 0.7, as many parts of the vehicle must be angle-tightened after having been tightened to a specific torque. As some of the angles are not straight forward (for example 30 or 60 degrees), you will either have to estimate the angle or use the disc.

Finally you may consider the tool equipment shown in Fig. 0.8, shown on the next page, which will be necessary from time to time, mainly if you intend to carry out most maintenance and repair jobs yourself.

The new engines fitted to the E-Class vehicles in the series W210 and W211 are different in many ways. The following information will tell you something about the new engines of type 111 (four-cylinder) and types 112 and 272 (six-cylinder V6) and the type 113 V8 engines. The information are given in general for all engines. V6 engines can have 18 or 24 valves, all four-cylinder engines have 16 valves.

This repair manual provides instructions for repairing Liebherr diesel engines models D934 A7-04, D936 A7-04, D944 A7-04, and D946 A7-04. The manual includes safety information, diagrams of engine components, technical specifications, instructions for removal and installation of parts, and specifications for tightening torques. The document is intended for mechanics and technicians repairing and maintaining these engine models.Read less

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