Reef aquariums made easy with 3reef aquarium forums - one of the oldest and friendliest aquarium forums online. 3reef came online in 1996 as 'Three Steps To A Reef Aquarium.' This title was created as an attempt to overcome the common fears associated with keeping a reef aquarium, especially at that time. 3reef still retains its roots and remains a friendly forum for new people interested in aquariums and veteran hobbyist alike.
I have a 34 solana and the back glass has a crack. The crack has reached the end of the glass in both spots so it can't get bigger. Anyone know of a good silicon that works on glass. Would like to use something more reliable than aquarium silicon. Thanks.
The easiest way to keep your aquarium from getting damaged is to put it on the right stand, especially if you have a top-heavy vertical tank. Keeping the tank level, all the bottom edges supported on a surface that won't scrape/chip them, and the water pressure evenly distributed prevents damage caused by stress on the tank structure. People underestimate how heavy a filled fish tank can be, even a small one, so make sure you have a stand that can handle the weight. To put it in perspective, a gallon of water weighs just over 8 pounds at room temp. Add the weight of the tank, and even just a little 10 gallon filled up can be almost 100 pounds (and that's without gravel and accessories). On that note, never move a fish tank filled with water, because you can damage it that way, too.
We'll start with the smallest headache. Most people think if you have a crack in your aquarium glass you have to start over completely with a brand new tank, but you may not have to. Would it be better and less risky? Yes. But if you're as broke as your aquarium is right now.
-Aquarium silicone - Make sure it's actually aquarium silicone and not just regular silicone, because you want it to be safe for your fish, waterproof, flexible, and more resistant to algae/bacteria. You can find it for less than $20, and it typically comes in clear, black, or white in a tube. Double check the curing/drying time for the brand you're buying and make sure it'll be okay to use in the time frame you need (some really specialized silicones take weeks to cure. Pretty sure you don't want to deal with that).
-Scrap glass/extra pane of glass or acryllic - Even just a piece of glass not from an aquarium works if it's big enough to cover the crack plus at least a few inches for a patch job. It doesn't have to be a perfect square or pretty, normal shape unless you want it to be. If you're replacing an entire pane, though, you want it to be identical to the existing panes.
-Something to clean the glass with - In part one, we mentioned diluted white vinegar or diluted bleach. Those will both work as long as you clean them off sufficiently with water as your final wipe off
-A razor blade/box cutter - Or anything sharp that can be used to cut excess/old dried silicone
-Tape measure
-Rags/Paper Towels
-Tape
-Something to apply/spread the silicone and/or gloves if you don't want it on you- personally, I'm one of the messiest human beings on the planet and I don't care since the silicone can't hurt me, but if you're not like me, maybe add this to your list.
For a smaller crack only affecting one side of a glass tank, you can actually patch it without too much work, expertise, or expense. You just need your aquarium silicone, some scrap glass/acryllic, something to clean the glass with, and something sharp to cut with. The upside: it's cheap and easy even if you've never done a DIY project in your life, and you can usually get a damaged tank to hold water without having to replace the whole thing. The downside: just like a patch on a piece of clothing, it will be visible. If the crack is in a location where you can hide it, like towards the bottom or in the back, this might not be an issue. I repaired a 40 gallon with a very noticeable crack and a horrifically obvious patch job...but it was closer to the bottom and I was able to stick a few java ferns in front of it. No one knows it's there unless I point it out. You can also get a 3D tank background and hide it behind that. But if it's out in the open, it could be pretty ugly-looking, and you may end up making it a temporary thing while you find a shiny new setup.
Also, yes, a lot of aquarium silicone smells like vinegar, and that's normal. It contains acetic acid. This is actually a good thing, because you can use that as a way to gauge how far along the silicone is in the drying process (still smell vinegar? You're not done, yet). The smell can get overwhelming after a while, though, so work in a ventilated area if you can.
Step 7: Scrape off excess dried silicone (without pulling the seal loose), and clean the tank and surrounding area up. Set up your aquarium like you would any other, but monitor it more closely than you would a new one for water loss.
Step 1: Clean the tank and replacement pane, then see if the tank has a trim (black plastic around the edges in most modern tanks). Sigh in relief if it doesn't. Yell your favorite swear word and reconsider your life choices if it does. Pray to any deity who will listen that, if the tank has trim, it a) isn't holding the tank together and is just there for looks, b) isn't one solid piece, and c) was attached by a sickly Victorian child who didn't get paid enough to care if it stayed on. If it doesn't have trim, relish in the feeling of being God's favorite and skip to step 3. If it does, sacrifice a virgin to the aquarium spirits to gain their favor and go to the next step.
Step 4: Add aquarium silicone on the inside and outside of the pane edges and smooth it out to fill the crease. Don't worry if this gets messy - you can trim off the excess later since silicone dries in a rubbery texture.
If water from a crack has leaked into your electrical components (e.g. a power strip for the heater, light, etc.), don't touch it either until you have rubber gloves and have turned that outlet off unless you won't come in contact with the water when you unplug it. You don't want to shock yourself. You also can't use those again until they've completely dried out or you risk an electrical fire (not so fun fact: aquariums are one of the leading causes of house fires).
Treat your tank like you would a new setup and acclimate your fish slowly. Don't be surprised if your aquarium plants melt back for a while as they adjust to the new environment again. Monitor the tank for leaks, and keep an eye on your water testing. Keeping the beneficial bacteria alive in the filter/gravel and having original water is a huge help, but there will still be some changes in the water chemistry.
If you have a tank that no longer holds water but is still holding together, you can find other uses for it. It could make a great terrarium for non-aquatic pets like geckos, frogs, etc. (just make sure holes and cracks won't let them escape or hurt them with sharp edges). I also like using them as planters or seed starters for terrestrial plants because the glass can make a mini greenhouse and lock in humidity for tropical species. If it's completely shattered, I'll pick it apart and add it to my bin of aquarium scraps to use for any future repairs.
Also understand that even though bigger is better with aquariums 99% of the time, this is where it works against you. The bigger the tank, the heavier it is, and the more support it needs. Any damage to that support, even repaired, weakens the tank. Bigger tanks + bigger cracks? No bueno.
Before the aquarium opened in the morning, staff discovered the spiderweb-like fracture on the inner pane of a 2-inch-thick laminate window, comprising three separate sheets of glass. It was not immediately clear what caused the break in the 200,000-gallon tank, home to a coral reef and more than 750 creatures including Myrtle, a 560-pound green sea turtle who has lived there since June 1970.
To fix the window, workers drained more than 6 feet of water from the aquarium, which is 23 feet deep. None of the animals had to be removed. A solid opaque panel was installed temporarily until a permanent glass replacement could be made. By yesterday afternoon, water was being added back to the tank.
Efforts were underway Friday afternoon to save an additional 400 to 500 smaller fish housed in aquariums underneath the hotel lobby. Without electricity, their tanks were not receiving the necessary oxygen for them to survive, officials said.
Related Articles
A dead fish is seen among debris in front of the Radisson Blu hotel in Berlin, where a huge aquarium located in the hotel's lobby burst on Friday. Berlin police said on Twitter that as well as causing "incredible maritime damage", the incident left two people with injuries from glass shards. John MacDougall/AFP via Getty Images hide caption
In a file photo, a diver cleans the glass of the giant cylindrical aquarium known as the AquaDom in Berlin, Germany. The massive aquarium burst on Friday. Sean Gallup/Getty Images hide caption
The building's owner says the AquaDom aquarium was completely destroyed, and that the cause is not yet known. The hotel is now closed because of the damage, Radisson says, adding that all guests are being relocated.
aa06259810