Paint Brush 3d Model Free Download

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Katrine Freggiaro

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Aug 5, 2024, 7:48:41 AM8/5/24
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Dueto recently moving I cannot use my airbrush right now. Ofcourse I do still want to make an aircraft model, a 1/48 bf109E to be accurate. So I will brush paint it. Now I have easy access to a few paints and I have been reading reviews. Yet I cannot choose... which paint out of this series would you pick?

Most acrylic paint can be brushed well if you are willing to spend a little time figuring it out. Painting small surfaces has never been an issue for me, but when trying to paint larger areas with solid colors it can start to look bad. For me, the trick was to add some golden acrylic retarder to the paint (not to the jar/bottle), and find a viscosity that works well for the situation. The retarder slows down the drying time long enough to allow the paint to level itself out a bit better, and eliminate more of the brush strokes. Thinner paint will also retain less brushstrokes.


I would recommend starting with a paint that is thicker rather than thinner, since you can always thin a paint easily. I suppose you could increase the viscosity of a very thin paint by adding an acrylic gel medium to it.


If I had to choose just one acrylic paint off your list I would choose the Vallejo colors, simply because I have read more about them than the other colors on your list. Though being the person that I am, I would grab one of each just to try them all out. The Revell colors interest me due to their unique packaging.


PS. If I really had to choose just one paint to brush with, I would choose an enamel paint rather than an acrylic. I'm sure it's my own lack of practice with painting acrylics on scale models, but I have had much better luck brushing Humbrol enamels. The slow dry time tends to work well with my limited time anyway.


I just did some brush painting with some Ammo of Mig colors, specifically their Rubber / Tire black color. It flowed well and didnt tend to show brush strokes at all. I used it on the tires of my 1/32 Bf-109. I had never used Ammo products before and was actually impressed at the coverage. The paint is bottled similarly to Vallejo paints, but much, much thinner and contains an agitator in the bottle to help mix the paints. I do believe that Ammo products are more expensive than Vallejo however.


I've never been able to successfully brush paint acrylic paints (Tamiya in particular) as they will "Roll up". on all but the tiniest of parts or surfaces, and also won't level. And you can forget brush painting gloss in any medium, unless you are paining a tiny light (for instance).


As seen in the other post I started I have an airbrush. But obviously for modeling you need to have a set of brushes for general painting of small parts, un-airbrushable parts, etc. Right now I have only one "good" fine brush (by good I mean it was a little pricey, the hairs don't fall out, and it has served my mother previously who did a lot of ceramics painting.) I am looking to expand the brush collection some to better serve my modeling needs. So what would you folks consider the absolute minimum "MUST HAVE" brushes for general modeling use? What size, hair type, stiffness etc.?


To start with, I would have a 10/0, 5/0, and a 3/0 round tip brushes for smaller detail. I would also check into a 1/8" flat brush for broader applications. I would recommend either sable or nylon hair. That will withstand the paint and cleaners you will use. I recommend using laquer thinner to clean them. Decent brushes will run about $3 to $4 apiece but will last if you clean them well. I would check out you local Hobby Lobby or art store. This should get you started.


I use only red sable brushes - and even further only Kolinsky sable. I have never found any brushes that works as well. If you have a Kolinsky red sable brush, the smallest size you need is 000. I also use Kolinsky sable flat brushes. For pointed (AKA round) I have a 000, and a 0. For flats I have 1/8" and 1/4" (AKA Filbert). The pointed ones I have are made by Winsor & Newton, and the flats are made by Escoda. Expensive? You bet they are, and they are worth every penny. I have tried many different sizes and materials but nothing can compete with the Koilnsky sable bruses. They hold lots of paint, yet you can control how much you put down. The bristles can be bent back over themselves and they spring right back to where they came from. Anyway, my philosophy is you get what you pay for.


Depends on what you're painting and personal taste. My list of must haves may not suit you. Your list of must haves may not suit me. Somewhere between my list and your list, we'll probably have a couple or three of the same.


I do understand down the line the collection will expand, so a "Beginners" or "intro" list is what I was looking for. So I will indeed check into the suggested brushes/sizes/hair type. Thankfully we have a local art supply shop, so I should be able to find the Red Sable stuff there.


Bioya wrote:Matt - What brand is the "Liner"? Is that a commor designation for a brush? Do you know what the bristles are? Red Sable, sythetic, female moose nose hairs? My white handled Testors just aren't doing it.


Most brush makers make "liners" - it's just a design which has longer bristles than a "regular" pointed brush. Think of a 3/0 brush, but with bristles about 2x the length, coming to a needle-fine point. They are available in just about every bristle type, Sable, nylon, taklon etc.


If you haven't looked at "quality" brushes before, you may experience some "sticker shock" when you see the prices of the better red/Kolinsky sable brushes. However, they're worth it and will last for many years if they are well looked after.


I would suggest, if you are going to be using them for detail painting (as you have an airbrush for "wide area" painting), in round (pointed) brushes, a size 4, 2, 0 and 000. You can easily paint eyebrows on a 1/35 scale figure with a good 000 brush. Matt's suggestion of a "liner" above is a good one too.


The brushes that I bought for quite a lot of money back in the 1970s are still serving me well. I've got a hefty collection of them in all styles and sizes. I shudder to think of how much it would put me back if I purchased them all at once. Theres a few that are cheapos for doing utilitarian things like applying weathering streaks and dusting out cockpits and wheel wells and such.


Do you want to know a little secret? When I was 12, I made a little tiny homemade paint brush using the skills I learned by tying dry flys (for fishing) out of a round toothpick and some medium quality bristles from a water color brush. It's used on every build for the extra tiny work on pilots and instrument panels to this day. It's invaluable! It does jobs that not even my most expensive, really small, store bought ones can do.


When I have serious work that needs done I have a couple of Windsor and Newton brushes, 00 and 000 red sable. They work well, have razor points and hold lots of paint providing it's thinned properly. Kind of pricey though. I paid right at $27 for the pair after tax, IIRC. But I wont have to replace them after a couple of months. Tamiya brushes don't hold up for nuthin.


If I recall, there was an issue of FSM about 6 or 7 years ago about buying paintbrushes and what to look for and so forth. It definitely would be a good primer for anyone not terribly familiar with all that's out there in the line of paintbrushes.


If you like to simulate worn paint, abraded as opposed to chipped paint effects, then a flat hog hair brush of about 1/8'' width is indespensible for drybrushing such effects onto wing leading edges and prop blades. It also comes in very handy when showing similar wear on cockpit consoles. It makes controling the severity of the paint wear quite easy. As hog hair is quite stiff, it also works well to simulate random scratches around the abraded region. The key to usuing a hog hair brush effectively for that is to cut its bristles back to about 1/4" or so in length so they are even stiffer.




Believe it or not, the prices I am looking at online (a little under $7 a piece) is something I don't mind. I guess I am looking at it like I spent about $175 for my airbrush set up (with brush and compressor) so the $7 price tag each for a half dozens brushes to start, and more spread out over the long run, does not really put me off at all.


As luck had it Squadron.com carrys the Kolinski Red Sable brushes. Since I had a bunch of stuff I needed to order anyways I bought right from them. I could not find any Kolinski 1/8 or 1/4 flat brushes, but I did procure one eah of 3/0, 0, 2 and 4. So it is a start!


Went to the art suppy store to check out their brush selection this AM. Talk about sticker shock, wow. They must be made out of Can'taffordium. In the same shopping center is a Michaels. Very nice selection, much better prices (for some of the same brands). I'll wait for their 40% off coupon and then buy. Thanks for the advice.

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