TheAquarium is a Marina LED 54l KIT. It comes with an interior filter (Marina Jet 80) that has a sponge and active carbon and because there was some space I've added a couple of ceramic rings. To be honest the water flow generated by the filter feels a bit too powerful for the size of the tank.
This is how it looks today (day 3) after i did a water change - it was colored by the tannins, but it was very clear. Dunno if this matters, but outside chemical and mechanical treatment, our tap water, at the water treatment plant also goes under UV treatment.
2) The lotus out front may block the view of stuff in the back. At least in my experience it has a lot more leaves down low than you would expect. The crypt may be similar too. I know I was surprised with how big my crypts ended up getting.
3) Stick with fewer species and bigger schools. It tends to look better and it's easier to be sure everyone is getting fed. I know I was told this starting out and ignored it because it's exciting and there are so many choices but looking back I think it was solid advice.
4) It's good to have a plan rather than just going in blind and winging it. On the other hand be ready for things to change. Plants will die off or pop up in places you didn't want them. Just be really to go with in. I think there is a Japanese idea they talk about in aquascaping called wabi Sabi that's that idea.
Of course there will be changes. Plants that will die, fish that will die, my main goal is to minimize losses and get a good final result. Most of the plants will be in vitro, with a couple of them being mature to help with the water stabilization. I will use a CO2 kit from Dennerle and I also got fertilizers, Tetra Nitrate Minus, Tetra Safe and Tetra Balance. The Dennerle Aquatest is on its way.
So AqAdvisor has this calculator and i have to say i like the result. They don't have the White Wizard Snail, but i don't think that will make a difference. My only question is should i go for two honey gourami or not ?
If I can make 1 other suggestion. Habrosus Cory are small. They will hide if there are not enough of their own kind. I would add a group of 8 instead of 4. Those are very small bioload as well. Your plants will compensate for the extra bioload. Plants count as filtration but cannot be added to their calculations.
The plan is to add the snail, shrimp and cory 1st, and after a week i plan to add the neons and maybe 6 glowing tetras (i like the colors, don't care about the glowing part, but i do like the colors, AqAdvisor didn't have the glotetras listed) and after another week the honey gourami.
@MrHarrys Honestly, when dealing with 10g, 15g, even 20g tanks... I wouldn't worry too much about the typical schooling minimums... for example, if you got 12 neons, 12 glowlights, 12 corys, 12 honeys + shrimp... that's would be way too many, unless you plan on doing a ton of maintenance. Smaller tanks have their limitations, but you get to decide which limitation you go with. True, you will not see the schooling behavior so much, but you will have more interest watching a greater variety of fish.
I would stick to your basic plan on the fish (either list you have shown would be fine), just know that any baby shrimp will likely get eaten (particularly if you have gouramis or kuhlis), but the adults should be fine with a little plant cover and that may no be so bad given the size of the tank... you likely don't want a shrimp explosion on your hands. I refer to shrimp and snails as "edge" dwellers, because they pretty much live on any available surface and are quite happy to do so.
Just try the plants you like... then double down on the ones that do well to replace the ones that don't... simple. BTW... your tank is looking great... looking forward to seeing it fully up and going (we have similar tastes in fish, too.) Thanks.
This triggers the killifish evangelist in me, I would be slacking if I didn't recommend looking into killifish if you like bright colors in nano/small fish. For example if you want a bright orange centerpiece fish you could go with Aphyosemion Australe Gold:
It may be a bit small for some of the larger species but most things in Aphyosemion only grow to about 1.5-2 inches. Fundulopanchax Gardneri only gets to about 2 inches. A pair would be fine in a 5 gallon tank, your 15 gallon would be plenty of space for a pair along with other fish. There's a stereotype of crazy killifish keepers who have a closet full of little plastic totes for keeping/breeding killis. There's even a video on YouTube of them hatching and growing out in an elephant's footprint. That said, I don't think I'd keep them in anything smaller than a 5 gallon fur SC extended period of time once they have grown out.
Once you have the plants in the tank my advice would be to get the shrimp in there prior to adding fish. I would suggest starting with a minimum of 10, but just make sure you are past the initial setup stages on the tank. (I can explain this a bit more in detail if you'd like, happy to help)
The goal in my perspective would be to let the plants take hold, let the shrimp colony take hold, and then add in the fish so that the colony can handle a bit of losses from the fish eating the shrimp.
If you're less concerned with having neocaridina shrimp and just want shrimp in general, amano shrimp are a great substitute and can be used in lieu of the neos here without concern of the fish bothering them.
@MrHarrys Regardless of which fish and how many you end up with, I highly recommend what @nabokovfan87 mentioned about the order and timing of things. I am setting up a community tank with similar species. I will definitely be doing the plants first (no fish cycle), about a month later some shrimp and snails, and about a month after that, the first fish starting with the least territorial species first and the more temperamental going in last. I'm not in a rush and plan to enjoy each phase of my aquarium... and, it keeps me on my budget! lol
That's a South American annual. I'm mostly familiar with African killifish but these are similar to African annuals where they'll live roughly a year. In nature they live in pools that dry up so they'll bury their eggs in the dirt to wait for rain to come again. These guys will literally dive into the dirt. They may be more aggressive but I don't have first hand experience with them.
I've heard this one is a great beginner killifish. It's on my short list of fish I want to get in the future. They have a 2-3 year lifespan which is nice as a beginner. I started with an annual killifish so it was hard to tell if it was sick because I was doing or if it was just it's time. The killi shack has pictures of them in a tank with shrimp but @Slick_Nick mentioned that his shrimp have disappeared. So your experience may vary. They are a bit shy so you'll want to make sure that they get food if the other fish are snapping it all up before they get a chance.
@MrHarrysthe only "off" thing on that list is Rasbora with respect to temps. It should be ok with all the other fish though. Chili Rasbora I believe can go a bit warmer, CPDs was the only real concern there.
Your last list is looking good to me, however I would have one in mind for the Betta. I tried adding a Betta to my nano community tank and it did not work out. Honey gourami would be the safest choice I think. Also maybe think of including some algae eater to your setup like an Ottocinclus or Borneo sucker.
Searching for a new fish tank or aquarium for your aquatic friend is exciting! From picking out the perfect one to decorating it and filling it with everything your pet fish needs, it is a fun process.
Fish don't bark, meow, play fetch or get the zoomies. While those are great qualities of other pets, the opposite is what makes fish so great. These pets are calming, quiet and serene to watch as they enjoy their environment.
The length, width, and height are the parameters on which the volume of most shapes depends, except for cylindrical shapes. They require the diameter or radius to estimate the capacity of the object.
Calculating the volume of the bowfront aquarium is a bit trickier. You need to have given four dimensions: height, width, length, and the full width of the aquarium, and then you can derive the final formula:
Is your aquarium in a custom or bizarre shape? Check out our other tools, such as the triangular prism volume or spherical cap calculator, which can find water volume for spherical aquariums, also called fish bowls. Just remember that such tanks are not appropriate for keeping fish, and in some countries, they're even forbidden!
Spherical aquariums are usually small tanks, fish have to swim in circles, which is unnatural for them, and it's hard to put a filter into such a tank. Consider a different aquarium shape despite the fancy look of such a tank.
Remember that those calculations may serve as estimations, and the result obtained doesn't mean that precisely 51.55 gallons will fit into your tank. We don't take into account, e.g., the thickness of the glass or the volume of other objects, such as sand, gravel, filter, plants, and... fish. Also, you don't fill up your container completely, do you?
These packages are specifically designed for our 300-gallon glass fish tank. The tank and filter is a passive, gravity-fed system with redundant pumps for a low maintenance, efficient, and reliable setup. Safety measures are already taken into account, optimizing the following processes:
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