Coleman Ice Blue Celadon recipe from the archives
hambone
cone: 10
color: light blue green
surface:glossy, shiny
recipe:
46.00 Potash Feldspar
16.00 Barium Carbonate
6.00 China Clay
32.00 Silica
100.00 % Totals:
Also add:
1.00 Yellow Iron Oxide
Possible Health Hazards: Barium Carbonate: HIGHLY Toxic-avoid
ingestion. Glazes containing barium may not be safe for ware intended
for use with food - test them for barium release. Silica: free silica-
wear a NIOSH approved dust mask when handling dry material
Different from Elaines Celadon(?) or is it just different batch #'s
BUT agin - barium has entirely replaced the Calcium that celadons
normally use. Here are the other "normal" recipes:
(Also I got lots of hits typing "blue iron oxide" into google. So it
seems the pigment called "ultramarine blue" is an iron blue - maybe -
MAYBE blue iron oxide can be added to the electric kiln version in
place of other iron pigments)
Tichane's Lung-ch'uan cone 6-8 slowly
Custer 50
SuperSil Silica 30
Kaolin 10
Limestone whiting 20
Leach's Korean Type Celadon, cone 7-9 /Leach
Feldspar 25
Limestone 25
China clay 6.5
Pike's clay 20
Quartz 20
Calcined ochre 2
Red iron oxide 1.5
"In the following recipes Cornish stone may be used in place of
feldspar"
Kawai's Korean Type Celadon, cone 7-9 /Leach
Feldspar 25
Medium Ash 32 (in Japan rice straw ash, e.g. nuka)
Reed ash 17
China Clay 25
Ferrous oxide 1.5
Kenzan Celadon, cone 7-9 /Leach
Feldspar 62
Medium ash 18
China clay 12
Quartz 2
Calcined ochre 6.0
Red iron oxide .12
Kawai's Celadon, cone 6-8
Feldspar 61.3
Limestone 7.5
China clay 4.9
Quartz 24.8
Iron oxide 1.5
Black iron(Fe3O4)=bluish, Red iron(Fe2O3)=yellower green
Hamada's Lung Ch'uan Celadon, cone 6-8
Feldspar 64
Pine ash 27
Calcined ochre 9
Kawai's Lung Ch'uan Celadon, cone 8-10
Feldspar 78
Limestone 6
Quartz 14
Red iron oxide 2
Kawai Celadon Mackenzie Workshop cone 9-10 (KU)
Potash spar 61.0
Whiting 7.5
EPK 5.0
Flint 25.0
Ball milled RIO 1.5
Ying-Ching Celadon Mackenzie Workshop cone 9-10 (KU)
Potash Spar 40
Silica 30
Barium Carbonate 8
Dolomite 7
EPK 10
Whiting 5
Red Iron 1 (ball milled)
Pete Pinnell's Blue Celadon
Custer (Potash) Feldspar 25.0
Whiting 20.0
Grolleg Kaolin 20.0
Flint 35.0
Add :
Tin Oxide 1.0
Barium Carbonate 2.0
Barnard Clay 3.0
Vivika Heino Blue Celadon (David McBeth)
Whiting 19.6
Potash Feldspar 27.5
EPK 20
Silica 33
Add:
Red Iron Oxide 1 %
After talking with Otto Heino at Christmas time I am adding 1% Barium
Carbonate.
David Leach Jade Green celadon at 1270 C. reduced (Carenza Hayhoe)
5 Cornish Stone
25 China Clay
25 Whiting
25 Quartz
2 Red Iron Oxide
For a bluey-green Ying Ch'ing Celedon use the same recipe with the
iron
oxide reduced to .5%
Craig Martell Blue Celadon cone 9-10 Reduction
g-200 feldspar 62.03
wollastonite 12.73
barium carb 4.48
silica 21.37
black iron ox 1.00
macaloid 3.00
These glazes show their truest color on porcelain. The blue celadons
are at their very best on porcelain bodies that are very low in
titanium. If you are using a claybody that will muddy the blue, you
might try some porcelain slips. The glaze needs to be applied thick
for good color. There is a small amount of iron in the glaze for color
and it's easy to lose the color if there isn't enough depth. It's
always a good idea to do several test tiles with several thicknesses
of glaze on each one. You are looking for the effect that YOU want.
After wet mixing, screen the glaze about 3 times thru at least a 100
mesh. 120 mesh is better. You want to disperse the iron so you get a
nice sky blue with no iron spots, unless you want iron spots. I ball
mill the glaze for an hour and then screen once thru a 100 mesh. The
milling does a swell job of dispersing the iron. When I do tests I
just screen 3 times and it works ok. If you want to try custer
feldspar instead of g-200 it should work OK. I calculated the glaze
with both spars and they are close enough with regard to the critical
oxide, which is potassium. For blue celadons the potassium in the
seger formula should be at about 0,3. Any less and the glaze is less
blue. If barium makes you nervous, you can leave it out but the glaze
won't be as blue and the color will be slightly harder looking. This
is a pretty durable glaze and the barium is low enough so I wouldn't
expect any serious leaching providing the glaze was fired properly and
brought to maturity. I fire these pots in a 12 hour cycle. Gas kiln
fired with propane. I start reduction at cone 06 and set the oxyprobe
at 0.7. I leave the damper at the 0.7 setting until cone 5 and then I
open it a bit to get 0,5 on the oxyprobe. I let the kiln climb until
cone 8 is at about 2 O'Clock and then I set the damper to get an
oxyprobe reading of 0.65 and I hold this until cone 10 is down. I
usually take 2.5 to 3 hours from cone 8 softening until cone 10 is
down. I cut the gas and hold the kiln at top temp for about an hour
with an oxyprobe reading of 0.6. After the soak I shut the kiln down
and close the damper and all ports. I open it about 36 hrs later and
hope for the best! :>) A further thing about the soak. I actually let
the kiln drop slightly during the hour soak. Usually to about cone 9.
Coleman Apple Green Celadon
cone: 10
color: light apple green
recipe:
17.95 Whiting
43.59 Potash Feldspar
10.26 EPK Kaolin
28.20 Flint
100.00 % Totals:
Also add:
0.25 Chrome Oxide
0.77 Red Iron Oxide
Possible Health Hazards: Flint: free silica-wear a NIOSH approved dust
mask when handling dry material Chrome Oxide: all chromium compounds
should be viewed as potentially carcinogenic
Coleman Ice Blue Celadon
cone: 10
color: light blue green
surface:glossy, shiny
recipe:
46.00 Potash Feldspar
16.00 Barium Carbonate
6.00 China Clay
32.00 Silica
100.00 % Totals:
Also add:
1.00 Yellow Iron Oxide
Possible Health Hazards: Barium Carbonate: HIGHLY Toxic-avoid
ingestion. Glazes containing barium may not be safe for ware intended
for use with food - test them for barium release. Silica: free silica-
wear a NIOSH approved dust mask when handling dry material
Warren MacKenzie's Blue Black Celadon
cone: 9 - 10
color: blue black
surface:glossy shiny
recipe:
25.00 Potash feldspar
25.00 EPK
25.00 Flint
25.00 Whiting
100.00 % Totals:
Also add:
4.00 Red iron oxide
2.00 Cobalt Carbonate
2.00 Bentonite
James and Sherron Bowen
wiht these recipes?
Does anyone know what a substitution would be for the Pike's clay in the
Leach recipe? Maybe a type of ball clay since china clay is listed
separately?
JB
Lee
interesting thing is that chuns looks something like a nezumi shino I
've seen at the Mingeikan.
Custer 80
Whiting 7
Flint 7
Softwood Ash 4
Bone Ash 2
Yellow Ochre 1
Bentonite 1
For purple splash: 3% copper slip on raw body.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Tochigi Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Tea is nought but this: first you heat the water, then you make the
tea. Then you drink it properly. That is all you need to know."
--Sen No Rikyu
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
hambone
with slow cool in reduction. I haven't tried them. My job here is to
cut and paste. I used to earn my bread doing layout, paste-up, camera,
stripping (no, not that kind), and plate making for photo offset. So I
have that kind of habit.
Pikes Clay is a high silica ball clay - As I remember the Kentucky
Tennessee company lists several on their site - http://www.ballclay.com/
Click on "ball Clay" near the top of that page - Kentucky stone was
recommended to me at Georgies - I see it is in the list
here is a great pic of variously colored iron oxides:
http://tongchem.en.alibaba.com/product/50047239/50215229/Pigments/Iron_Oxide_Pigments.html
my question here is to what degree will these colors be maintained in
an electric kiln fired to around cone 6-8?
H A M B O N E
On Jan 17, 5:19 pm, "James and Sherron Bowen"
James and Sherron Bowen
Lee
<jbow...@prairienetworks.com> wrote:
>
> copper slip?
>
>
Chuns often have purple or red splashes on them. It comes from copper slip/
Lee
is called Seiji Nuka. Mashiko potters were trying to copy celadon
by putting copper in their rice hull ash glaze. Up north, they have
a bluer glaze like it, but it is made from a local stone. I wish I
had an analysis of it!
James and Sherron Bowen
Red for this effect.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee" <tog...@gmail.com>
To: <Clay...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 6:26 PM
Subject: *ClayCraft* Re: Coleman Ice Blue Celadon recipe from the archives
>
Lee
<jbow...@prairienetworks.com> wrote:
>
> I should have been more clear. How do make copper slip? I have used Pete's
> Red for this effect.
I just use my usual slip. Often I use Continental Clay's Super
White (they sell it dry.) Or, you can make it from the trimmings of
the body you are using and you will be assured a good fit.
James and Sherron Bowen
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee" <tog...@gmail.com>
To: <Clay...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 6:56 PM
Subject: *ClayCraft* Re: Coleman Ice Blue Celadon recipe from the archives
>
hambone
- however somewhat unsystematically - I'm trying to figure out what my
system should be. Alphabetical? By category?
by cone? What is the proper Linneaus system for glazes/slips/enogbes/
clays anyway?
By the way, which ones are Chuns as you see it? I had some nezumi
shinos in my hot little hands down at the Freer; also really red old
shinos too
h a m b o n e
On Jan 17, 7:05 pm, Lee <toge...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I see you include some Chuns. Here is the one I use. The
> interesting thing is that chuns looks something like a nezumi shino I
> 've seen at the Mingeikan.
>
> Custer 80
> Whiting 7
> Flint 7
> Softwood Ash 4
> Bone Ash 2
> Yellow Ochre 1
> Bentonite 1
>
> For purple splash: 3% copper slip on raw body.
>
> --
hambone
etc. Chuns are optical blue, if chipped, the illusion vanishes. This
is due to minute bubbles in the super saturated solution refracting
into a bluish color. The copper splash produces a violet or purple
area. Tichane includes Chuns as Celadons; however they are really
different animals
I am going to fire some cone 6 wares to bisque tomorrow. I have a
number of glazes lined up including
AG 19 Issenburgs/Ashpot
Malmgren's White Breaking Brown
Andy's Handful of Earth
Schweiger's Liner
Kemp's 111
Hambone's 123
& plus trying to figure out what to do with the weathered andusite
Hank & I dug up in the Oregon mountains...
H A M
p.s. I was really impressed by a Japanese ultra-contemporary
sculptural work I saw at the San Francisco museum once - sort of a
triangular girder shape in blue green celadon - it seemed to be
transparent - as though you could see right through it, although it
was 6 - 12 " thick. Very close approximation to a certain type of jade
- I didn't get the artists name because back then I was absorbed into
Shigaraki, Tamba, Bizen wares and took no notes. Still, the illusion
was indelibly etched into my mind...
On Jan 17, 11:49 pm, "James and Sherron Bowen"
> what percent copper would you use?
> JB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee" <toge...@gmail.com>
> To: <Clay...@googlegroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 6:56 PM
> Subject: *ClayCraft* Re: Coleman Ice Blue Celadon recipe from the archives
>
> > On Jan 18, 2008 10:29 AM, James and Sherron Bowen
Lee
Recipe calls for 3%. Because it is mostly feldspar, it dries
quickly and shows runs easily. When thick, looks like big quartz
crystals. Only sky blue on porcelain. On stoneware, it looks like
some nezumi/mouse shinos I have seen.
Custer 80
Whiting 7
Flint 7
Softwood Ash 4
Bone Ash 2
Yellow Ochre 1
Bentonite 1
For purple splash: 3% copper slip on raw body.
Lee
>
> Thanks Lee - I have collected your recipe related posts over the years
> - however somewhat unsystematically - I'm trying to figure out what my
> system should be. Alphabetical? By category?
I don't have mine in any order, but I do have them in
multiple notebooks.
> By the way, which ones are Chuns as you see it? I had some nezumi
> shinos in my hot little hands down at the Freer; also really red old
> shinos too
There are a variety of nezumi shinos. Some are smooth like
the white to red ones we know, but some are transparent and show
distinctive crazing, like thick Chuns do. There is a bowl at the
Mingeikan with a white inlayed Yanagi/willow decoration. I have a
photo somewhere. It is in Sander's book on Japanese ceramics (I
didn't realize it until I saw the actual pot at the Mingeikan.)
There are a large variety of shinos. The primary
differences, I think are due to the place in the kiln they are placed.
But seeing the willow nezumi bowl, I think the actual make up of the
shinos vary too.
Lee
> On Jan 18, 2008 8:25 PM, hambone <kansas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> There are a variety of nezumi shinos. Some are smooth like
> the white to red ones we know, but some are transparent and show
> distinctive crazing, like thick Chuns do. There is a bowl at the
> Mingeikan with a white inlayed Yanagi/willow decoration. I have a
> photo somewhere. It is in Sander's book on Japanese ceramics (I
> didn't realize it until I saw the actual pot at the Mingeikan.)
I scanned the pot I talked about above from Sander's book and put it up here:
http://shinoglaze.blogspot.com/
Lee
I use Gmail and never delete anything. Is this what you wanted?
Jan 18
I see you include some Chuns. Here is the one I use. The
interesting thing is that chuns looks something like a nezumi shino I
've seen at the Mingeikan.
Custer 80
Whiting 7
Flint 7
Softwood Ash 4
Bone Ash 2
Yellow Ochre 1
Bentonite 1
For purple splash: 3% copper slip on raw body
--
Lee in Mashiko, Tochigi Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
David McBeth
Dave
Edouard Bastarache Inc.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/27141939/
Gis la revido,
(A la revoyure)
Edouard Bastarache
Spertesperantisto
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
http://www.pshcanada.com/Toxicology.htm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30058682@N00/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/20321056/
http://perso.orange.fr/smart2000/livres.htm
http://myblogsmesblogs.blogspot.com/
James and Sherron Bowen
blue celadon.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edouard Bastarache Inc." <edou...@sorel-tracy.qc.ca>
To: <Clay...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:47 PM
Subject: *ClayCraft* Re: Coleman Ice Blue Celadon recipe from the archives
>