Re: [Clayart] Smooth finish on grogged clay

[Snail Scott]

On Jul 17, 2014, at 11:41 AM, Robert Hickman wrote:
> I've recently started using a grogged clay, which is useful for larger
> work, but I'm unsure how to create a smooth finish with it...

Forget sponges - N.D.G. for smoothing grogged clay! I use ribs.
The MudTools ribs come in a range of shapes, sizes, and stiffnesses.
I use the small red kidney-shaped one for softer clay and for refining
gradual contours. I use the yellow one with a corner for shaping
and moving the clay and for stiffer clay. I use really, really groggy clay,
and ribbing the surface in essential for my intentions unless I want a
rough, sandy effect. For tight concave spots, a wood or hard plastic tool
may be needed. Sometimes I rib a layer of smooth slip over the surface
once the underlying clay is dry, to improve glazing properties.

-Snail

MAILMAN_MIMEDEFANG WRAP
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[Michael Wendt]

While still moist, you could brush on or spray on a slip clay body with
similar drying shrinkage.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Hickman" <robeh...@gmail.com>
To: <cla...@lists.clayartworld.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 9:41 AM
Subject: [Clayart] Smooth finish on grogged clay

> Hi,

>
> I've recently started using a grogged clay, which is useful for larger

> work, but I'm unsure how to create a smooth finish with it. With
> smooth bodies it's easy to sponge over them, but on the grogged clay
> this creates a finish much like sandpaper. Sanding it when bone dry
> leaves scratches in the surface. Burnishing fixes it, but would rather
> avoid it as it takes way too long.
>
> Are there any other options?

[Edouard Bastarache]

You can use a spoon or a used credit card.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Anne Yagoda" <yag...@gmail.com>
To: "Clayart international pottery discussion forum"
<cla...@lists.clayartworld.com>

Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Clayart] Smooth finish on grogged clay

> If you put the wheel on in reverse and go over the pot with the back of a
> spoon it will push the grog in
> Sponges draw the grog to the surface.

[mud...@hal-pc.org]

> I use a body that is 20% grog for my larger pieces. What works for me is
to make a slip from the body, apply it to the pot as you see fit after
trimming the piece (I just use a sponge), and then work it into the clay
with both a wooden tool and a flexible rubber or silicon rib. You may
need to do two or three applications to heal all of the really bad scars
depending upon how much tooth the clay body that you are using has.

Hope this helps,

Craig

Planet Houseton, Tejas

[mud...@hal-pc.org]

> The mudtool ribs are dynamite!! I use them as well.

Craig

[sumi]

Robert

when it is still damp use a red rubber mud-tools rib, or a steel scraper
held very flat.

Sumi
> Hi,

>
> I've recently started using a grogged clay, which is useful for larger

> work, but I'm unsure how to create a smooth finish with it. With
> smooth bodies it's easy to sponge over them, but on the grogged clay
> this creates a finish much like sandpaper. Sanding it when bone dry
> leaves scratches in the surface. Burnishing fixes it, but would rather
> avoid it as it takes way too long.
>
> Are there any other options?

[Gayle Bair]

Robert,

I use the thin kidney steel rib as Sumi suggested and/or red mudtool. I
must say for me, the mud-tool won't "catch" and drag the grog so favor it.

BTW If you cut one the the red mud-tools in half the interior hole makes a
great rim compressor.

Gayle

Gayle Bair Pottery
ga...@claybair.com
www.claybair.com

[Girrell, Bruce]

Robert Hickman asked:
Is it possible to create a clay which is just plastic enough to be press molded, then very quickly go to a 'leather' state?

Absolutely! That's exactly what tile makers do.

Bruce Girrell

[Snail Scott]

On Jul 25, 2014, at 7:08 AM, Robert Hickman wrote:
> ...What I'm making are concert tuned ceramic ocarinas, for this
> plasticity in the clay is a huge disadvantage especially with large
> bass instruments as distortion causes tuning errors and a high loss in
> quality control...Is it possible to create a clay which is just plastic enough to be

> press molded, then very quickly go to a 'leather' state?

Press molding can be done effectively with virtually non-plastic
clays. Load the body up with fine-grained grog, molochite, and
such to reduce shrinkage. You can use coarser grog too, if you
aren't doing much post-molding surface work. Also, eliminate
any ball clay in the recipe in favor of less plastic clays. Plasticity
has its uses, but not for this sort of thing. Better off without it!