There is, however, an older non computerized small doll kiln which I could
use for cone 6 firings if used in an outdoor situation with no need for
venting. Yeah, junior cones could be used for the test kiln as in the
olden days, but pyrometer might be better solution in this instance.
Are there any probes which have small enough diameter to fit in small test
kiln peephole?
I am always looking for alternative solutions to challenges here: The
studio has large unused older electric kiln which only needs venting.
Any bright ideas for non invasive venting solutions which engineering
department in this facility could use which would not involve a lot of
time ? Labor shortages here (and in so many facilities) have meant that
many non essential projects are shelved. This aging potter's needs are
unfortunately in the non essential category.
Hey, greetings of the holiday season to all Clay Arters. May winter
weather be kind to you and warm fuzzies abound. (Marcia Selsor's
Facebook page recently showed the first major winter snowblowing of the
season, so it's begun even before the solstice.)
Carolyn Curran
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William Schran...@twc.com703-505-1617
-----------------------------------------From: "Carolyn Curran"
To: "Carolyn Curran"
Cc:
Sent: Tuesday December 7 2021 8:49:00PM
Subject: [Clayart] Pyrometer, kiln venting
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After more than 250 glaze firings in a computer controlled electric kiln I
notice absolutely no difference in the glazes. (There were a couple of
firings in a row when the thermocouple obviously needed to be replaced, but
as far as I could tell it went from fine to catastrophic failure).
And honestly I sometimes think that we get too hung up on exactitude.
Measuring glazes by volume (as many old potters did) introduces far more
difference in a glaze than firing by a modern pyrometer.
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If you can't see the cones (I've never been able to successfully see cones
in an electric kiln with 3 1/2" brick - and I'm not a big fan of carving
them out), use a pyrometer. The number on the pyrometer may not be exactly
equivalent to the numbers on the cone chart, but it'll be the same every
time, and as long as you ramp the same, the firing will be consistent.
If you don't have a pyrometer, use the Infra-red temp gun Mel talks about
(tip - put a pot or stilt 3 inches in from the peep and aim the gun at
that. It needs an object to measure the heat of). Again the numbers may not
be exactly the same, but it will be consistent. You may have to alter what
temp you aim for, depending on your glazes, but once you've got it dialed
in ... no problem.
Or finally, do it the old fashioned way by temperature colour. Bad for your
eyes, and very inaccurate but if you make sure your glazes mature (and
don't overfire) over a wide temperature range, this won't matter.
As with everything: don't get hung up on whether us Yahoos on the internet
say it can or can't be done. Try it. Troubleshoot, and try it again!
As long as the clay and glazes are fully mature (and even that only matters
for functional stuff), it doesn't matter a damn how you got there!
Robert
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Personally I can never see the damn cones in an electric kiln, and I have
no desire to excavate any part of the kiln wall, which is a) there for a
reason and b) irreversible.
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