Hi Jeff,
To give you a more considered answer to your actual question, more information re. your kiln's construction, i.e. if sprung arch, catenary, hard brick, or IFB, could help us. But be as that may, a 14-inch lintel span supported only by kiln shelves to stabilize the weight of the kiln wall gives me pause.
The type of kiln wall regarding the angle of the wall, also dictates and indicates the direction and amount of angular thrust against whatever you attempt to construct to support the collapsing wall.
As I'm sure you know, kiln shelves are prone to sag and or crack under weighted heat stress.
Depending on shelf material composition some are stronger than others. Please do your own research.
It appears that you have ample space to set a stacked 4.5" hard brick support pillar under the mid-point of that kiln shelving lintel bridge you are suggesting. And you will likely still have more than adequate cubic inches for an efficient flue opening.
Mel mentioned placing removable loose bricks to block excessive flue openings, and to fine tune the flue. This is an easy go to if you build for access during firing when changing conditions warrant.
Overbuilding flue, and stack or chimney is good sense if you understand the "why" to have a reserve for when the atmospheric and barometric conditions are causing a stall or conversely as Mel says, the kiln is a acting like a "runaway train" and one is heating the sky.
Please let us know how it all works out. Clayart is dedicated to mutual learning as well as Q&A.
Misneach,
David Woof......................................................................................................................................
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From: Clayart <
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Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2024 1:53 PM
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Cc: Jeff D. Walker <
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Subject: [Clayart] Kiln Flue question
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