THE ALF PRIMER
alf_cl...@yahoo.com
A guide to direct action and the animal liberation front, third
edition
Countless publications on economic sabotage are in print. A more known
one would be George Hayduke's Get Even: The Complete Book of Dirty
Tricks. Copies of the ALF primer can be obtained from the North
American Animal Liberation Front Support Group. Also helpful is a
series of essays written 2,300 years ago by Sun Tzu: The Art Of War
Forward
Dedication
Copyright
Legal Disclaimer
The History of the ALF
Who are the ALF?
The Animal Liberation Front Guidelines
One View of the ALF
Does Direct Action Work?
Are You Ready for the ALF?
Finding People to Work With
Getting Started
Planning
Preparation
Security
Forward
Before you even consider undertaking any action read this entire
guide, then read it again. Know every detail inside and out,
particularly those parts regarding preparation and security. We highly
recommend you read Ecodefense, by David Foreman, as well. Although
oriented more towards environmental action, it is incredibly detailed
and informative. If what is presented here is the kindergarten class
on direct action, Ecodefense is the college course.
Dedication
This guide is dedicated to the brave men and women of the Animal
Liberation Front. In this age of insanity you may be branded a
terrorist, but you will one day be remembered as a selfless warrior
who dared to fight for what is right.
Copyright
This guide is anti-copyrighted. Any reproduction, in part or in
full, without the expressed, written consent of the authors would be
greatly appreciated.
Legal Disclaimer
This guide is for your entertainment, information, and general
interest only. It is not meant to encourage the activities described
within. We're just writing this for the heck of it. We would never
dream of encouraging someone to use the proven-effective methods
presented within to free innocent beings from the depths of hell, or
to destroy the tools used to torture, mutilate, and murder them. We'd
much prefer you sit at home watching TV and remain apathetic.
The History of the ALF
The Animal Liberation Front has its roots in 1960s England. At
this time a small group of people began sabotaging hunts there. This
group, the Hunt Saboteurs Association, would lay false scents, blow
hunting horns to send hounds off in the wrong direction, and chase
animals to safety. In 1972, after effectively ending a number of
traditional hunting events across England, members of the Hunt
Saboteurs decided more militant action was needed, and thus began the
Band of Mercy. They moved on to destroying guns and sabotaging hunters
vehicles by breaking windows and slashing tires. They also began
fighting other forms of animal abuse, burning seal hunting boats as
well as pharmaceutical laboratories. After the jailing of two Band of
Mercy members in 1975, word spread, support grew, and the Animal
Liberation Front was begun in 1976.
Who are the ALF?
Members of the Animal Liberation Front act directly to stop animal
suffering, at the risk of losing their own freedom. Direct action
refers to illegal actions performed to bring about animal liberation.
These are usually one of two things: rescuing animals from
laboratories or other places of abuse, or inflicting economic damage
on animal abusers. Due to the illegal nature of ALF activities,
activists work anonymously, and there is no formal organization to the
ALF. There is no office, no leaders, no newsletter, and no official
membership. Anyone who carries out direct action according to ALF
guidelines is a member of the ALF.
Animal Liberation Front Guidelines
1. To liberate animals from places of abuse, i.e. fur farms,
laboratories, factory farms, etc. and place them in good homes where
they may live out their natural lives free from suffering.
2. To inflict economic damage to those who profit from the misery
and exploitation of animals.
3. To reveal the horror and atrocities committed against animals
behind locked doors by performing nonviolent direct actions and
liberations.
4. To take all necessary precautions against hurting any animal,
human and non-human.
In the third section it is important to note the ALF does not, in
any way, condone violence against any animal, human or non-human. Any
action involving violence is by its definition not an ALF action, and
any person involved is not an ALF member.
The fourth section must be strictly adhered to. In over 20 years,
and thousands of actions, nobody has ever been injured or killed in an
ALF action.
This includes innocent bystanders:
One View of the ALF
One ALF member put it this way, "I see participating in the ALFs
raids not as a momentary forfeiture of the highest human values -
goodness, generosity and the like - but rather as an embodiment of
them... We feel a sense of urgency for the animals whose pain and
imminent death is absolutely real to them today."
Does Direct Action Work?
Susan Paris, president of vivisection front group Americans For
Medical Progress (AMP), admits the Animal Liberation Front has had a
large impact on vivisectionists. She writes, "Because of terrorist
acts by animal activists like Coronado, crucial research projects have
been delayed or scrapped. More and more of the scarce dollars
available to research are spent on heightened security and higher
insurance rates. Promising young scientists are rejecting careers in
research. Top-notch researchers are getting out of the field." The
August 1993 Report to Congress on Animal Enterprise Terrorism
describes the ALFs effectiveness as, "Where the direct, collateral,
and indirect effects of incidents such as this are factored together,
ALFs professed tactic of economic sabotage can be considered
successful, and its objectives, at least towards the victimized
facility, fulfilled." If we look past the "terrorist" rhetoric, we can
see that its a fact - direct action works. If you don't take their
word for it, ask any animal rescued by the ALF and I'm sure they would
agree that direct action works.
Are You Ready for the ALF?
Direct action is nothing to take lightly. The moment you carry out
your first action you are at risk of being arrested. Direct action is
very demanding, physically and mentally. Are you in top physical
shape? If you were being chased by a police officer, could you outrun
him? Could you scale a barbed wire fence? Living under the constant
stress of possible arrest can take its toll mentally as well. ALF
activists should also remain drug and alcohol free, as these things
decay physical and mental ability, give the police another reason to
investigate you, and waste money better spent on supplies. Veganism is
obviously encouraged, as it is both morally responsible, and will
better your physical condition. Some ALF members will also limit their
association with mainstream animal rights groups, as to remain less
visible to police investigations.
Finding People to Work With
One of the most important steps towards getting involved in direct
action is finding people to work with. In any ALF action you are
putting your freedom on the line, so you must be positive you can
completely trust the people you are working with. It is essential to
find people who will not sell out you or the movement should an arrest
occur. You should always work with people who you know well and have
for a long period of time, people who you know you can rely on.
Security is an important issue in direct action, so people with a
tendency to brag or who won't be able to keep their mouth shut are a
bad idea. Starting your own cell is better than joining an existing
one, since if you know of an existing one, their security obviously
isn't too good. Asking someone if they want to get involved is never
an easy thing to do. Bring up the subject in a general way and see how
the person feels about direct action first, and move on from there.
Cells usually consist of 2 to 5 members. Use the minimum number of
people needed for each action, but don't forget the importance of look
outs. Having extra people unnecessarily puts them at risk. One person
should be chosen as the leader of the group. This doesn't mean that
person has any special power or privileges, and it often wont come
into play at all. But if during an actions things go wrong, someone
will need to make split second decisions, and in this case there is no
time for democracy. Progress as a group, starting with minor actions
to get used to each other, discussing after each action what went well
and what didn't, and discussing how to improve and hit harder.
Good Team Members
Bad Team Members
Getting Started
Before you even think about undertaking any action, read. Know
this guide inside and out. Before you do anything you'd better know
how to do it right, or you may wind up in a lot of trouble. As with
anything, the first time is the hardest. So start small. If your first
action is a liberation of a large laboratory with high security you
are going to have problems. Start by gluing locks or some spray paint.
You can go about finding a target a few ways. First, you may want to
decide what kind of establishment you want to target - a fur shop, a
butcher shop, a factory farm or slaughterhouse, or maybe a fast food
restaurant? If you are planning on getting involved in direct action
you are hopefully already aware of various animal rights issues and
probably know where and how to find whichever kind of abuser you want
to target. Your local animal rights group is probably aware of abusers
in the area, but keep in mind that local animal rights groups are the
first people the police will question. The easiest way to find a
target is to let your fingers do the walking. A phone book can direct
you to all your local fur shops, butcher shops, etc. If fast food
restaurants are your goal, you can't go down the street without seeing
one. Locations of fur farms can be found in The Final Nail. Once
you've begun and know what you are doing, go big. The more actions you
take part in the more likely it gets that you will get caught, so be
sure that when you hit you hit hard.
Planning
After selecting your target become familiar with it. You may want
to study a road map and become familiar with the surrounding area. You
should first visit the sight in daylight. Park well away in a non-
suspicious place, like the parking lot of a large store or a side road
with many cars. Approach on foot and get as close as possible. Take a
good look around (without looking suspicious) and think about how you
are going to do whatever it is you are going to do. Once back to your
car, draw a map including everything you can remember. Now it is time
to draw up your exact plan. Leave nothing to chance. Figure out every
detail and be certain that everyone is completely familiar with every
detail. You don't want to find yourself at the site trying to get your
act together. Next, return to the site once more before your action,
this time at night. Follow your route to the site just as it will be
during your action. You can think of this as a dress rehearsal. Get as
close to the target as you can. This should also be as close to the
time of day your action will take place (actions are obviously almost
always carried out at night), so that you can see what security and
other factors are in effect at that time. Always plan for things to go
wrong. Know what you will do if you come in contact with a security
officer or police. Know which way you will run, if you will go as a
group or alone, and where you will rendezvous. These recommendations
are general. For something as simple as gluing locks, less intense
planning is needed. For something as complex as a raid, more planning
may be necessary.
Preparation
Consider leaving your immediate area for actions; repeatedly
working close to home can be a tip off to police. Also be sure to not
keep a regular schedule of days and times your actions take place - if
the police establish your pattern its one more thing they can use to
catch you. As tempting as it is, avoid hitting the same place
repeatedly. This is how a good number of people get caught. If you
choose to report your actions, don't name your specific group. If so,
the police will know just what actions are carried out by your group,
making finding you easier. Always have a story set if stopped by the
police. Know where it is you will say you are coming from and going
to. If you are going to be using your car for actions, remove all
bumper stickers. Also be sure all lights, license plates, etc. are OK.
Drive carefully and legally. Don't give them reason to stop you. Be
sure to have enough gas before leaving for an action, so you don't
have to stop on the way, or especially while transporting animals.
Clothing is important as well. Wear nothing with identifiable
markings. Consider many targets are equipped with security cameras,
and always assume the one you are hitting is. Any tattoos should be
covered, any piercing covered or removed. You want to wear dark
colors, but all black can look suspicious, so just keep it dark but
not unusual. Ski masks are commonly employed during direct action, but
be ready to ditch them if need be - they can be quite incriminating,
especially on a summer night. A hooded sweatshirt, a baseball cap, and
a scarf are a better idea in some locations. On high risk operations
you may want to get some oversized shoes from a thrift shop to avoid
leaving tell tale footprints. Stuffing the toes will make them
wearable. Another option is to keep a pair of shoes used just for
direct action with your tools at a safe house. If this is the case,
only put them on while on the way to an action and take them off on
the way back, as not leave corresponding footprints around your house
or on your carpet. Wearing socks over your shoes or covering the soles
in duct tape also works well against footprints. For actions where the
police are going to be investigating more heavily, even hairs and
fibers on clothing may be a problem. In this case you can buy clothes
from a thrift store just for that night, and throw them away
afterwards. Another possibility on high risk operations is to wear
boiler suits, which cover all your clothes, and can be removed quickly
after back to the car. Always wear gloves and be mindful of
fingerprints. Be careful of using thin latex gloves, since
fingerprints can be left through them. Put one pair over another if
you choose to use them. Fingerprints will also be left on the inside
of the glove, so if you use them, dispose of them separately from any
other evidence. Be careful whenever purchasing equipment for an
action. Buying a gallon of bright red paint a block from home and
dumping it on the McDonalds two blocks away the same day is not a good
idea. Purchase everything far away from home and always with cash, as
well as long before an action is to take place when possible. Be
careful of using materials that will give away where you are from. For
instance, if using newspapers in an arson attack far from home, using
your local paper will be dead give-away. Wipe everything you are
taking with you completely to remove fingerprints, in case anything is
dropped or has to be left behind. You have to scrub hard to remove
prints, and some soap or rubbing alcohol may help. Clean everything as
if it is going to be left behind, since sooner or later something you
didn't plan to leave will drop.
For this same reason you should take as little as possible with
you, and connect whatever you must take to your body. A rubber band
through your belt loop with each end attached to your key chain will
keep it secure, even if you are being chased and have to go headfirst
over a fence, etc. Even if you don't touch something while purchasing
it by wearing gloves for instance, wipe it anyway so it cant be traced
Obviously, do not have drugs, weapons, or anything else illegal on you
or in you car during an action. If you are using tools such as
crowbars or bolt cutters (this is mostly for liberations), sharpen or
file them after every action, since slight markings on the tool can
leave traceable markings on what is opened. Also, never keep tools at
your house. If you are keeping tools used in actions, store them at a
safe house. A safe house is the house of a person not involved in the
actions at all, someone who the police would never investigate. Tools
and clothing should never be disposed of in your own garbage. A large
dumpster at a store or restaurant is an ideal place to dispose of
evidence. Never buy cheap tools, especially if you are using walkie
talkies. Your freedom and the animals lives are on the line, so go for
the quality equipment. Before setting out for an action, spend about
30 minutes outside in the dark. This will improve your night vision.
When using flashlights, regular light will ruin your night vision. Red
or blue lenses will not, and are also preferable because they are less
visible from a distance. Military flashlights, available at Army/Navy
stores come with red or blue lenses. Another piece of equipment that
can greatly increase security is walkie talkies. Having lookouts set
up and connected to the team via radio can increase warning times from
seconds to minutes. The Walkman/headset style are ideal, and are
commonly available at Radio Shack for a reasonable price. Night vision
scopes are another useful tool. They take existing light and magnify
it tens of thousands of times, allowing one to virtually see in the
dark. Top of the line night vision equipment is out of the financial
range of most activists, but earlier models are available for a few
hundred dollars at Army/Navy and survival stores. For very thorough
information on radios, night vision scopes, and many other useful bits
of technology, consult Ecodefense.
Security
The government is actively monitoring animal liberationists,
particularly suspected members of the ALF, so watch your back. They
are opening mail and tapping phone lines, so never ever ever say
anything incriminating over the phone, mail, or e-mail. Always assume
that you are being watched and your house may be searched at any time
(they have gone so far as dismantling heating ducts while searching
the houses of suspected ALF members, so never assume anything is
hidden well enough). Discussing direct action works on a need-to-know
basis. Never tell anyone anything that they do not absolutely need to
know. Never discuss actions with people not involved, for your safety
and theirs. If someone asks you about the ALF, say that you aren't
involved, but you have heard or read about it. That way you can
discuss the ALF without incriminating yourself. If someone says
something incriminating over the phone, quickly excuse yourself and
hang up before they can get another word in, then explain to them what
they did wrong next time you see them in person. Keep in mind that
homes, cars, and anywhere else can be bugged. Try to discuss actions
in areas that are secure (where nobody can overhear), but that they
would be unable to bug. Take a walk through the woods, for instance.
Except for the purpose of improving your group and its effectiveness,
once an action has taken place, never discuss it again. The damage was
done, animals lives were saved, and that's the important thing.
Bringing up old "war stories" is an unnecessary risk. All this may
seem like paranoia, but the government will go to any length stop us.
Besides, its better to be a little paranoid than in jail.
Effectiveness
Start small, then move on to bigger things. Even the simplest
actions take practice to get right, so try one thing at a time until
you've gotten it down. Once you've mastered the small things, use them
in combination to really ruin an abusers day. Think about
possibilities of combining breaking windows and paint bombs for
instance. Be sure to start with the quietest parts when doing a number
of things. What is outlined here are general methods used by the ALF.
Every location and building is different, so after checking over your
target, you should both modify these methods based on the specific
area and target itself, and feel free to be creative and come up with
new ways to do damage. Creativity will make you more effective, harder
to catch since you are less predictable, and make whatever security
they come up with less effective.
Windows
Windows are probably the easiest target available in most
situations, yet large windows can cost hundreds, making them an ideal
target. Glass etching fluid (hydrofluoric acid) is available in some
larger arts and crafts stores. Be sure to buy out of town on
specialized items like this. Its a liquid or cream that eats through
the surface of glass. If you can get a hold of some, put it in some
kind of squeeze bottle, one of those plastic lemon ones for instance,
and off you go. If you get the cream it can also be applied with a
paintbrush, allowing slogans to be written on the window. Its potent
stuff, so be careful not to get it on your skin. Working quickly at
the target you'll probably make somewhat of a mess with the bottle, so
bring a plastic bag to throw it in after you are done. Its a quick and
relatively safe way to cause some financial damage. A less expensive
but much noisier method is simply smashing windows. It is loud, so get
ready to run. Aside from throwing a brick or rock, a popular way to do
this is with a sling shot. They are available in many sporting stores.
You may have to patronize a store that sells hunting equipment to find
one, but you can always offset this by returning at a later date and
smashing their windows in turn. The advantage of a sling shot is that
you don't have to be right next to the window to break it. Sling shots
can even be effective from moving cars. Try to fire symmetrical
objects such as ball bearings or nuts. Rocks or bolts will be hard to
control due to their lack of aerodynamics. Whatever you shoot, be sure
to wipe them for fingerprints first. It is always your responsibility
to be certain there is nobody in or near the store that you could
injure while firing. Shooting from totally inside the car (as in,
don't hang out the side) will make detection a whole lot harder. Air
guns (a.k.a. BB guns) are another option. They don't do as much damage
to the window as a brick might, but they are very quick, can be used
easily from inside a car, and are very quiet. You can easily roll up
to a store, stop in front for a second, roll down the window, take a
shot, and leave. Unless someone is standing right there, nobody will
notice a thing. Most of the time they will leave a small hole with a
spider web crack, about the size of a silver dollar. Occasionally they
will completely shatter a window though, so be ready for it. There are
generally two types of BB guns. The first look like rifles, and are
powered by being manually pumped. The second look like handguns, and
are powered by CO2 cartridges. The cartridges only cost around $2 each
and will give you around 150 shots. The advantage of the CO2 style is
that they are generally semi-automatic (meaning it fires one shot
every time you pull the trigger). Using such a device you could take
out over a dozen windows in a couple of seconds. They do look like
real guns though, so if the police roll up, drop them immediately or
risk getting shot. The other option for breaking windows is a hammer.
Tilers hammers are best because of their pointed design; they can be
found in most hardware stores. Windows, especially shatter proof, are
tougher than they seem, so use a hammer of some weight. The best time
for this is a stormy night, the lack of visibility and noise of the
storm providing excellent cover. You'll naturally think to hit windows
in the center, but this is actually the strongest part. Always go for
the corners, as these are the weak spots. Another option with windows
is glass glue, which permanently sticks glass to glass. Attaching a
piece of glass with a slogan painted on the inside will require them
to replace the whole window.
Shutters
People in more urban areas are probably familiar with stores
lowering metal shutters over their windows while closed. After having
windows smashed, a target store in a less urban area may do the same.
If you are dealing with the kind of shutters that are a grid, or bars,
etching fluid, sling shots, or BB guns will still work fine. Its also
possible to simply lock any kind of object to the shutter, making it
impossible to open.
Sometimes they wont use all the holes for locks that are available
on the shutter. If this is the case, put your own lock on there. Make
sure its fingerprint free first. More difficult are the full shutters
that don't have any holes. Hitting the shutter with a sledgehammer may
work in both damaging the shutter, and possibly breaking the window if
they are close enough together. A more subtle method of dealing with
full shutters is gluing the shutter locks, which you can see under the
gluing locks section. If they have been dumb enough to only put a
shutter over the main window and left a smaller one, like on a door,
uncovered - break that one, then reach in and break the main one.
Vehicles
Vehicles are another easy target. There's a great number of ways
to do damage to them. When doing a set of things to a vehicle, start
with the quieter parts. There are basically two different approaches
that can be taken with vehicles, destruction and sabotage - the
difference being with destruction vehicles are visibly damaged, and
with sabotage the action is not evident until the vehicle is run and
experiences mechanical problems. There are many options with the
destruction method. Tires can be slashed. An ice pick, sharp knife, or
anything of that sort will work. Tires, especially on trucks, are
tougher than they seem, so use something thick and strong that wont
break or bend. Putting a hole in the side wall will make it impossible
to repair. A pair of pillars can also be used to yank out the stem
(the thing you put air in through), which will also flatten the tire.
A large screwdriver can damage a radiator by punching holes in it
through the grill. If you cant get to the engine, you can cut wires
and break various components. If you cant get to the engine, you can
also cut what you can from underneath. Bring something heavy-duty like
small bolt cutters, as regular wire cutters wont be able to handle
metal cables and such. Either paint or paint stripper can do some
damage to the paint job. Windshield wipers can be broke off,
headlights and windshields smashed or painted with etching fluid, and
locks glued. Windshields are made to deflect rocks kicked up on the
road, so only more direct methods of breaking them, such as a hammer,
will work.
With the more subtle sabotage method, it is important to leave no
signs you were there, so the vehicle is run and the damage is done. If
dealing with trucks, look for levers on the side of the hood to
release it and open it forward. The stereotypical sabotage technique
is sugar in the gas tank. This will merely block the filter, and do
little damage. More effective fuel tank additives are sand or 10 to 15
mothballs. Be sure not to use sand from near home, as it can be
traced. The best sabotage target is the lubricating system. If
incapacitated, it will cause the engine to overheat, bind, and
generally destroy itself. Karo syrup in the oil filler hole is another
classic that, in reality, only effects the filter. One option for
major damage is to carefully remove the oil, either by punching a hole
in the oil pan, or removing the drain plug. Adding water to the oil is
more effective, since it will not lubricate, but will keep the oil
pressure up, keeping a warning light from coming on. Better than water
is diesel or gasoline, as it will also break down existing oil. For
maximum effect, look to adding abrasives to the lubricating system.
The oil filler hole is not the only option here. All moving parts need
lubrication, such as transmissions, differentials, and wheel hubs.
Many lubrication points will have screw on caps that can be removed
with an adjustable wrench. Sand can be used for this as well. However,
the top of the line abrasive is the kind used to polish stones in
tumblers, available in hobby and lapidary supply shops. A very fine
powder grit mixed with a slightly more coarse fine sand grit will have
the best chance of getting throughout the whole engine and wrecking
everything. A 400 and 600 grit size mix works well. A mere half pint
of this will completely destroy an engine. Pouring sand or grit can be
difficult, especially at night, so here are a few ways to make it
easier. Attach a couple feet of flexible plastic tubing to a funnel
for increased and easier reach. Or get a grease gun, available at auto
parts stores, remove half the grease, mix in grit, and apply with the
gun. Another option is to put the grit in a condom, tie it off, and
simply drop it in the oil filler hole. After running for 30-50 minutes
the condom will dissolve and release the grit. Other options for
sabotage include dropping plaster of paris or a handful of BB's into
the carburetor. A box of quick rice in the radiator will expand as the
vehicle runs and clog the works. A pound of salt or some Drano will
eat away the copper tubing of a radiator.
Gluing Locks
Gluing locks is one of the quickest, easiest, and safest forms of
direct action, and one of the most commonly used. The idea of gluing
locks is that time is money, and if you can keep an abusers business
closed, even for a short time, that's money lost and animals saved.
Properly glued locks will require a locksmith to fix, and they aren't
cheap either. In order to glue a lock, get a tube of glue, ideally the
kind with the long, sharp tip, or the kind in the syringe. Approach
your target, be it store or vehicle, and put a small piece of wire or
similar object, less than a fingernails length, into the lock. Insert
the glue tube into the lock, and fill the lock with glue.
Once the glue dries it will be practically impossible to open.
Some glues are effective, some aren't. Get some cheap locks and test
some out for yourself until you find what works. In order for a glue
to work well it must be thick enough as to not run out of the lock,
and dry solid, not rubbery. Also consider drying time. Hardware stores
have a wide selection of various glues, so try to find something with
both these properties. An easier way to effectively glue locks may be
to take a glue tube with a wide enough opening, squeeze some glue out,
fill the tube with BBs and mix them in with the glue. This way your
solid material will simply squeeze out with the glue.
Paint
Paint is often a good way to get your message across and do some
damage. Vehicles, billboards, and buildings are all paintable. Spray
paint is one option. Splashing paint out of a container of some sort
is another. Plastic soda bottles will work well there. To get more
range you can put a hole in the top and screw it back on, then spray
through it. Paint-bombs can be constructed by simply filling Christmas
ornaments or light-bulbs with paint. Light-bulbs take some work, but
are easier to come by. Cut off the bottom part of the metal, below the
glass. Very carefully break out the bottom part of the glass, by the
filament, inside the remaining metal ring. Fill and carefully seal.
You can use a screwdriver for that. The advantage of such paint bombs
is that they are surprisingly quiet. Be positive they are print-free
first though. Always transport them in sealed plastic bags, in case
one ruptures. Balloons can be used too, but they tend to not work as
well. Paint can be inserted into soda bottles, ornaments, or bulbs
using, ironically, a turkey baster. Always mix paint about 50/50 with
water or paint thinner so it splatters better. Paint on glass is easy
to get off, getting it on wood, metal, or stone exteriors is a lot
more effective. Large markers can also work. Super-soaker type water
guns filled with a paint/water mixture are effective as well. They
sometimes leak and drip, so keep them in a plastic bag before and
after a hit. Its impossible to wash all the paint out afterwards,
making it good evidence if found, and possibly clogged after a couple
uses. Bearing this in mind it may be a good idea to buy one, use it
one night on a number of establishments, and dispose of it. Just
remember that paint is a messy business and has a tendency to get
everywhere, including all over you.
Paint stripper is another option, especially effective on
vehicles. 3M Safest Strip, or Extra Strength, has the advantage of
clinging to vertical surfaces. Dupli-Color makes ST-1000 Paint
Stripper, available in auto parts stores. It comes in spray cans, and
can eat down to bare metal in 30 minutes. Brake fluid is an effective
paint stripper as well.
Sponges and Toilets
This is one of the few actions undertaken actually inside the
abusive establishment, and while they are open none the less. This can
be risky for heavily involved ALF members, but it's a great action for
those looking for simple and more low level things to do. If you are
able to get access to an abusers toilet, such as stopping in a fast
food restaurant to use the bathroom, here's a quick and easy way to do
some damage. Get a sponge, the bigger the better. Big fluffy ones are
better than hard square ones. Get it wet, and then wrap it tightly in
string and let it dry. Remove the string and it will stay in its
compact shape. Once in the water the sponge will expand to its
previous size. So simply drop it in, flush, and hopefully clog up the
toilet. If it gets deep into the pipes first, this can turn into a
very expensive problem. Lacking a sponge, lots of their toilet paper
can clog a toilet as well. It is easier to unclog, but still a minor
nuisance.
A mixture of plaster and sawdust in a nylon stocking is another
method.
Telephone Lines
Telephones lines are the most neglected way to easily cause a
business to lose money. Once you find an abusers building, locate the
phone lines coming out. Attach a weight of some kind to a strong rope,
toss it over the line, grab both ends and pull. Another option is to
climb the pole it is going to and to cut it. Either way, business rely
a lot on their phones and this is an easy way to take them out of
commission. If you see any wires, phone lines or other, at ground
level, just yank them out or cut them.
Careful if it's electrical though!
Security Cameras
Places that get hit a number of times may install security
measures, such as cameras. Don't let this deter you. As long as you
are well covered, the best they can do is give them a general height
of the people involved, which doesn't mean much. What they actually do
for establishment is the opposite of what they are intended. Instead
of protecting them, it gives you something else to break. Security
cameras are expensive, and not all that hard to destroy. Aside from
open cameras, look for boxes or spheres, which sometimes house
cameras. They are generally up high, around ten feet up. Flood light
systems are another thing you might see pop up. If you want to hit the
place again but you're not to fond of all the light, try a slingshot
to take them out of commission. Just remember that if they do install
a security system, that means money out of their pocket, which is what
you wanted anyway. It also means you're being effective, so keep it
up. Just be careful not to hit the same place too often or they'll be
waiting for you.
Stink Bombs
Various foul smelling agents can serve a variety of purposes and
direct action. Some ideas are dropping some through mail slots,
windows after being broken, trucks (especially if windows or doors are
left open.), large fur sales, and hunting conventions. Numerous very
weak acids have powerful and strong smells. Most well known is butyric
acid, of which two drops will clear a room and one ounce is enough for
a building. A commonly available option is the various lures used by
hunters, such as deer piss. These can be delivered using a medicine
dropper or hypodermic needle.
Construction Sites
If you come across an abusive institution under construction,
there are many effective actions that can be carried out at this
point. Firstly, however, be positive it is in fact going to be what
you think it is. During construction survey stakes (wooden stakes with
colored ribbons tied to the top) are used to mark such things as
corners, water and sewer lines, and elevation. Simply removing these
stakes, and disguising the holes will cost a few days work. When
removing stakes, also look for "hub and tacks", which are 2X2" stakes
pounded flush through the ground, with a nail driven in top, or
sometimes marked by flags on wires. Also, reference points, which
include various stakes or hubs and tacks as much as 50 away must be
removed or the survey sticks can simply be replaced. More effective
than removing stakes may be to move them just slightly. Although it
may seem minor, removing survey stakes is considered a relatively
major crime, so use the usual security precautions.
Salt greatly weakens concrete. If a large amount can be introduced
into cement bags or sand piles for making concrete, foundations and
the like would be weakened. Leave a note that you have damaged the
cement so that people don't get hurt. Make certain the note is
received.
After the foundation is poured, connections for plumbing,
especially sewage, are exposed. There are often covered in duct tape
to avoid objects being dropped inside. If the duct tape were to be
carefully removed and clogging elements such as concrete, epoxy, or
plaster were dropped down the pipes and the tape was carefully put
back in place it could cause major problems if not realized until the
building is completed.
After drywall is put up electrical wiring is put in. Once sheet-
rock or other wallboard is hung this wiring is very hard to get to.
After drywall is erected, wiring can be cut in inconspicuous places
like behind studs, and then taped or glued into position. Hopefully
this will keep the cuts from being noticed until after sheet-rock is
hung.
Arson
Arson is a big, and dangerous step up in direct action. It can be
very dangerous in a number of ways. Arson is a very serious crime, so
before considering it you'd better be aware of the possible
consequences if caught. Fire is also terribly dangerous, so the utmost
care is needed when starting one. Its necessary to be positive that no
human or nonhuman animals will be hurt in the blaze. It is also
dangerous media wise. Arson carries the heavy tag of "terrorism", and
must be used wisely as not to discredit the entire movement. As
dangerous as arson is, it is also by far the most potent weapon of
direct action. One of the first arson attacks in the US was against a
new research lab at U.C. Davis doing over 4 million dollars in damage.
When constructing your incendiary device, be careful! Consider the
source of the information you are using. Never, ever, ever use The
Anarchists Cookbook. This was put together by a right wing individual
purposely using faulty recipes in order to kill or injure people
following the book. Never use information off the internet either, as
much of it is from The Anarchists Cookbook or other unreliable
sources. Just use common sense.
Arson can have two different purposes. The first and more obvious
is to start a fire and burn down the target, be it a building or a
vehicle. But devices can also be created that will only have a small
fire, meant to give off heat, thus setting off a buildings sprinkler
system, doing water damage to merchandise. If using this method, you
should be using timed devices, set to go off at night when nobody is
around. It is best to try to get the device into the store while open,
rather than breaking in during the night. These devices are placed out
of sight under flammable furniture, displays, etc. Putting them inside
of furniture or other products may be dangerous considering the device
may fail to go off on time and go off at a later time after someone
has purchased it. Placing the device on the top floor is best, since
the water from the sprinklers will then ideally run down to the other
floors, doing damage on each. We will first discuss devices intended
to start a fire, then move on to more complicated timed devices meant
to set off sprinkler systems. Before using any device be absolutely
sure to wipe it clear of all fingerprints. Do not assume the device
burning will get rid of fingerprints. The authorities have at least 32
methods of pulling prints of burned articles. In some cases, the fire
actually fuses the oil of the print to object, making it easier to
read. Whenever using a flammable liquid try to use kerosene, or diesel
fuel. Their fumes aren't flammable, unlike gasoline, and are therefore
safer to use. Kerosene can be bought at outdoor or camping stores as
well as some gas stations. Here it is especially important to buy far
away from home. Purchase it in regulation red fuel containers, then
transfer it to whatever bottle you are using (usually plastic drink
bottles or jugs). Also, if using bottles don't fill them all the way,
or as the liquid turns into a gas and expands it will cause the bottle
to leak. Flammable liquid is made to have a noticeable smell, so be
sure to keep it totally sealed in a plastic bag when transporting, and
be careful not to get any on you or in your car. Wash yourself, your
clothes, and air out your car or spray some air freshener in it after
the action is done. Incense sticks are often used as a fuse in
incendiary devices. We strongly caution against this. They are hard to
light, go out easily, and dont always set off the device. A much
better fuse can be based on those prank birthday candles - the kind
that you cant blow out. They're made to not go out, so what could be
better? Just be sure that they are set up in a way that the dripping
wax wont interfere with the connection to the rest of the device.
A simple way to create an incendiary device is based on two
plastic bottles of flammable liquid. Lightly soak two sponges in
whatever liquid is in the bottles. Place the ends of the candles
between the sponges, and place the sponges between the bottles, then
tape the whole thing together. You can also put matches at the base of
the candles in order to help things along. Be positive the candle and
match heads are very close to the sponges or it will not work. The
fire will slowly move down the candle, light the sponges, which will
melt the bottles, and start the fire.
A different version of the same device uses one gallon water jug,
the kind with the handle. A sponge is placed sideways through the
handle opening and the candles are stuck in on both sides of the
handle. Another simple way to start a fire is the cigarette delay.
This entails taking a cigarette, and placing the end between two open
books of matches, with the match heads against the cigarette. Tie them
together around the cigarette with string or a rubber band. Place this
between cardboard boxes, newspaper, or whatever other flammable stuff
you care for. This method will give you a five to ten minute delay,
but don't count on specific times.
A common target for arson is the wooden broiler units used to hold
hens. Due to various drugs, hens now reach their maximum weight in
just seven weeks. So, every seven weeks the hens are slaughtered, and
the boiler units are cleaned out and disinfected, ready for the new
batch of chicks. Just after the disinfecting is the best time to burn
them down since the disinfecting scares away rodents. The standard
process for this uses only two people, although other people may be
put to use as look outs and drivers. One person carries bags of torn
up clothes. The other carries a container of flammable liquid,
newspaper, matches, and fire-lighters. Fire-lighters are pieces of
solid material used to start fires. You can find them in camping and
army/navy stores. Broiler units are often left open to air out after
cleaning and disinfecting. The bags of torn up clothes are placed in
the corners of the unit, and the flammable liquid is poured into the
bags, soaking the clothing. The bags should be leaning against the
walls so the don't fall away while burning. Some flammable liquid can
also be poured on the wall as well, but be careful not to overdo it,
you still have to get out. The fire-lighters are placed on top of the
bags, against the walls. A box of matches can be placed on top of the
bag as well. A piece of newspaper is rolled up and used as a fuse so
you don't have to be right over the bag while lighting it. If your
target has a number of buildings you probably wont want to stick
around long enough to do more than one, so go for the largest one.
Destroying vehicles by means of fire, one must be careful. When
the fuel tank of a car or truck explodes it can throw the vehicle 20
to 30 yards. If it is that close to a building containing human or
nonhuman animals it is necessary to break in, release the break, and
push it out of range. A simple way to burn a vehicle is to place a
sheet or blanket on top or underneath and soak it in flammable liquid.
If the doors can be opened, it can also be poured over the dashboard
and seats. If not using a time-delay device, try to light it from as
far away as possible by lighting the end of a rolled up newspaper,
flare, or other torch-like object.
The device used to set off sprinklers begins with a cigarette box,
playing card box, or similar small box, and a card is cut to fit
inside (to attach the parts to). Playing card boxes work well in this
capacity since you already have perfect fitting cards. Holes are
punched in the sides of the box and card for ventilation, and both
parts are coated with nail varnish. A brand new nine volt battery
(must be Duracell or it wont work!) is glued to the card. Next, take a
21 watt bulb, the kind used in cars for reverse lights. The glass must
be broken without damaging the filament. To do this, heat the bulb
with a lighter and then place it in cold water. The older way of
wiring it is to get a battery snap (the thing nine volt batteries
attach to) and solder one wire of it to the nipple of the bulb. A
spare piece of similar wire is soldered to the metal side of the bulb
(the side part is also a contact, not only the nipple). Fine, but
stiff, wire is then soldered onto the ends of the two wires. These two
will later be attached to a watch face. A watch (not digital - the
kind with hands!) is used, removed of its band and glass over the
face. The thin but stiff wire at the end of the wire coming off the
side of the bulb is bent up off the watch face into a bridge shape,
like an upside down letter U. Both ends are soldered onto the watch
face with the bridge part lifted off, or perpendicular, to the watch
face. The other wire, the upright, is bent at a 90 degree angle, so
the end stands off the face, slightly taller than the bridge. The
purpose is to have the hour hand push the upright into the bridge,
completing the circuit and setting off the bulb. In order to not have
the minute or second hand hit the upright they must carefully be bent
out of the way or cut off. Then the two wire ends, the bridge and the
upright, are glued onto the face between one and three. They are
placed on the watch face so that as the hour hand reaches them it will
push the upright into the bridge. The watch, battery, and bulb are
glued onto the card. A piece of fire-lighter is glued to the card in
front of the bulb, and covered with nail varnish. The filament is
carefully placed on the fire-lighter and more varnish is painted over
the filament and fire-lighter. Match heads, removed from the sticks
with razor blades, are placed on the fire-lighter, touching the
filament, while the varnish is still wet. Fire-lighter can be hard to
get going, so attach as many match heads around it as possible. Any
remaining space on the card should be filled with more pieces of fire-
lighter. Only touch it with gloves after that point, or better yet,
only touch it with gloves from the beginning, since parts may be
impossible to wipe off after being assembled. Before entering the
target, set the hand to the correct position, depending on what time
you want it to go off. Do not connect the battery snap to the battery
yet. Once in the store, visit the bathroom and connect it there. The
device is now armed. Various problems can come up, such as the hour
hand not being strong enough to push the upright into the bridge, so
try it out and try to use the same materials and set up once you've
found what works. Here is the newer, and more effective way of setting
up this device. First off, watch hands aren't that strong, so small
travel alarm clocks work better. This will require you find a larger
type of box. Also, a simpler wiring than using uprights and bridges is
to just connect the wire to the hour hand, traveling along it from the
center out. Be sure to leave enough loose wire so that as it goes
around it doesn't pull off. The end of the wire should be stripped
with enough bare wire to make good contact. Depending on your set-up,
it can either contact another wire attached to the side of the bulb,
or contact the side of the bulb itself. Try different set ups out,
testing it along the way by checking if the bulb lights up before you
break it, and so on. Once you have a finished product test it out to
make sure it flames up enough to start a small fire. Take notes
throughout the process so you can recreate it again if it works. Once
you have found something that works, commit it to memory and destroy
the notes. Always be wary of any evidence you may be keeping around,
like those notes, or boxes or receipts from parts you had to buy.
A timed device used for vehicles is similar. It begins with the
same box, card, bulb, and battery set up. Using pieces from a plastic
bag, make a small bag, about 4 x 2.5 cm, containing a mixture of half
sodium chlorate (weed killer) or potassium nitrate (saltpeter) and
half white granulated sugar (use Jack Frost - it vegan!). UHU or
similar glue is used to seal the edges of the bag. The bag is placed
along the filament where the fire-lighter was used in the previous
device. If you don want to mess around with the bag, use the same fire-
lighter set up as the 12 hour device. Instead of a watch being used as
a timer, this one uses a cooking timer which has a rotating arm. A
nail is banged into the top of the timer, not far enough to affect the
mechanism, and secured with glue. A piece of metal that can conduct
electricity is bent into a letter L shape. This piece is glued to the
arm, so that the L touches the nail when the timer reaches that point.
The wires are attached to this arm and to the nail. The device is
glued to a plastic bottle filled 3/4 full with gasoline, and dish
washing liquid is added. The dish washing liquid is used to sustain
the flame. It does solidify the gasoline in around three days, so the
device should be used within 24 hours. The device should be placed
inside the truck, on the upholstery. If you cant open a door, you'll
have to break a window or use it below the truck. Before using such a
device it is absolutely necessary to check the truck to make sure the
driver is not sleeping inside, as is often the case with larger
commercial vehicles. Any product that repels dogs and cats can also be
placed around the truck for safety, especially with longer timers.
Again, make sure all fingerprints are completely gone before setting
off for an action and only touch it with gloves after that.
Getting Through Locks
In some actions, particularly liberations, breaking in is an
essential part of the action. Locks can be dealt with in a number of
ways. If you are going to be attempting to get by a lock you should
take a close look at it, possibly when you check out the site your
first time during the day, or more likely your second time at night.
Then try to get the exact same kind of lock and see what works. You
can try to pry them open with a crowbar, or cut them with bolt
cutters. The other way through a lock is to use an electric powered
drill and a new 1/8 inch high speed drill bit. Depending on the
hardness of the lock it may take more than one bit. Never buy cheap
drill bits - they'll let you down. Most keyed locks are pin-tumbler
types. In this kind of lock, a number of spring loaded pins are pushed
up when the key is inserted. When the tops of these pins are in
perfect alignment with the "shear line", the "plug" into which the key
is inserted can turn and the lock opened. In many locks, parts are
made of brass to prevent corrosion.
Fortunately, brass is relatively soft and easily drilled. A drill
can be used to destroy the pins along the shear line. Be careful not
to drill too deeply, since this can damage the locking bar making it
impossible to open. Drill only the depth of the keyway, which is 3/4
inch in most padlocks, and 1 inch in most door locks. A "drill stop",
available in most hardware stores, can be used to pre-set the depth
required. Once the lock has been drilled out, insert a pin, such as a
nail, into the lock to press the remains of the pins above the shear
line. You may have to insert the drill a few times to chew up bits of
pins that are interfering with opening. Finally, using a flat-head
screwdriver, turn and open the lock. This operation takes practice, so
get a few cheap locks and work on it first. Books and tools for
picking locks are not too difficult to come by. The other way to get
past doors is to just go through them. Prying them open with a
crowbar, knocking them open with a sledgehammer, are two ways.
Another way is to cut a hole through the middle of the door just
big enough to fit through. A row of holes drilled with a thick drill
bit is one way to do this, portable power saws are another. The
advantage of this method is that if the door is alarmed going through
the middle may not trigger the alarm.
Liberations
Liberations are the quintessential direct action. Education and
economic sabotage save animals lives in the long run, but liberating
animals from laboratories, factory farms, or other places of abuse is
the only way to save animals lives here and now. Liberations are
probably the most complex actions, and some of the most risky. For
both these reasons, an incredible amount of planning and preparation
are needed. The first step in a liberation is research. You have to
know all you can about the target. You have to know how many animals
they have, what kind of animals, what they are doing to them, and
where they are located. Once these are determined comes the most
important part of a liberation - finding homes for the animals. Aside
from the actual break in group, a whole other group of people may be
needed for this aspect. NEVER liberate an animal that you have not
found a good and loving home for. Liberated animals should be placed
in homes of people not associated with your group, and hopefully not
associated with the movement at all. Once animals are taken police
will be looking for them, so they have to placed somewhere police will
not look. Before being liberated, an animal should be completely
checked over by a trusted veterinarian. Again, before planning on how
to get animals out of bad situations, be certain you have a good
situation to put them in once they have been liberated. Special homes
may be needed for some animals considering you may be liberating
animals not normally kept as pets, or with special conditions
inflicted upon them by the abusers.
While caring for a dog taken from a laboratory breeder may not
require special skill, the average person does not know how to care
for a monkey with a hole cut in its skull and an electrode attached to
its brain. As was said, liberations are often highly complex,
requiring a number of people and a huge amount of planning. The people
involved should each have an area of responsibility, a specialty. You
will need people responsible for finding homes, researching and
planning the raid, look outs, breaking in, carriers - people to get
the animals out, and drivers, as well as someone to coordinate the
whole thing. If possible the look outs and break in crew should arrive
early so that the carriers and drivers are there for as short a time
as possible. Of course have a way for lookouts to notify everyone else
if things go wrong, be it an audible signal or by walkie talkies. Many
animals naturally make noise when disturbed or moved, and there's
nothing you can do about it. All you can do is get in, get the
animals, and get out as quickly as possible. You have to have lookouts
you can rely on, so that you can concentrate on getting the job done
and not have to worry about watching your back. If things go wrong get
everyone together and leave quickly. Most people will be happy just
scaring you off, so unless literally being shot at, don't leave anyone
behind.
Parking vehicles near the site may be suspicious. It may be best
to have the vehicles arrive early and park in nearby large parking
lots or on side streets amongst other cars. Then, they can simply pull
up, either at pre-appointed times or when notified, possibly by walkie
talkie, get the animals, and go. Always have the vehicle with the
animals leave first. If the animals get caught they face death, if you
are caught you will only lose your freedom for a short time.
Fur Farm Liberations
Almost all animals raised on fur farms can be released safely into
the wild. Police and fur farmers may disagree, saying they will starve
or die in the wild, but wildlife officials agree that this is a self
serving lie. Of course some will not survive the wild; some animals
raised in the wild don't survive it either. Do they stand any better
chances on the fur farm? This makes liberating animals on fur farms
much easier than those from laboratories. Fox, mink, wolf, bobcat,
lynx, raccoon, and coyote can all be safely released into the wild.
The only common fur animal that can not survive the wild is the
chinchilla. Fur farms are also an easier target since they are more
open and generally have less security, although with increasing fur
farm liberations, security is quickly increasing. No huge ecological
imbalance results from releasing these animals, even in massive
quantities, into the wild. They all disperse quickly, with mink
traveling five to ten miles a day, and fox traveling twelve. Fur farms
are easily spotted, most use long sheds or rows of cages. Fur animals
are kept as cold as possible, since this will thicken their coats. For
this purpose fur cages are always open to the outside air, making
liberation that much easier.
There are some points of safety for the animals that must be
followed in a fur animal liberation. Animals are not old enough to be
released until after they have been weaned. Also, they should never be
released after late October, since by then winter has set in and they
wont have time to learn to hunt since prey species will be more
difficult to catch at this time. The best method for releasing large
amounts of animals is to cut holes in fences surrounding the compound,
and then just open the cages and let the animals find their own way
out. Of course some will not get out, but when releasing thousands of
animals it may be the only way. The more escape routes you can cut the
better chances they will have. With any release into the wild some
animals will be recaptured, but getting most or even some of the
animals to freedom is still much better than all dying. Chinchillas
are a small herbivore native to South America. They are generally not
killed until spring. As was said earlier, chinchillas are the only fur
animal not able to be released to the wild, so they should be found
good homes with people who know how to care for them. An important
thing to know is that they can not tolerate temperatures over 80
degrees Fahrenheit. Books about their care are available at book
stores and libraries. Even if a liberation is not possible, fur farms
can still be disrupted. From October to December the "pelting stock",
the animals about to be killed, and the "breeding stock", those
animals left to produce more animals, are the same size. By opening
all the cages and releasing them into the compound they will be unable
to tell which is which. The breeding stock may be kept in just a few
cages, so be sure to open them all, or else you might miss the
breeding stock and have accomplished nothing. You can also destroy the
breeding cards, index card sized slips which contain the genetic
history (thus the value) of the stock, usually kept on the front of
the cages. This action will not save the animals in the fur farm at
that time, they will still be killed. In fact, they will probably kill
all the animals and purchase new ones for breeding. But, such actions
can cause a farm to shut down, thus saving countless animals. Its a
question each individual must decide for themselves.
Another method is to take a non-toxic dye and spray it on each
animal, rendering the pelt worthless. Again, they will still be
killed, but possibly it will shut down the farm and save future
generations.
Dealing With The Police
The following holds true for both being arrested, or just taken in
for questioning. When performing direct action, arrests at some point
are inevitable, so you had better be prepared for dealing with the
police. Although it is true that the more actions you do the higher
your chances of arrest get, and some forms of direct action are more
risky than others, there is still a chance you will be arrested during
your first action, no matter how minor, so be prepared. The general
rule in dealing with police is to say nothing. Keep in mind that these
people go to school to learn how to trick you into incriminating
yourself and others. They are also avid liars, and will say anything
to try to trick you. Realize that every word out of their mouth, no
matter how friendly, innocent, or unrelated it may seem, is said with
the goal of getting evidence against you. Just keep your mouth shut.
They may try to threaten a statement out of you. They may say they
will keep you in longer if you do not talk. A lie. If they see they
are not going to get what they want out of you they eventually will
give up. If they see you may talk they will keep pushing until they
get what they want. They may threaten you with physical violence. They
may even use physical violence against you. Do not fight back. Face
it, your are in a police station, surrounded by cops. You aren't going
to win. If you do try and fight back you will get yourself a charge of
assault on a police officer against you, and some hefty jail time. Its
not worth it. If attacked, try to role into a ball and protect your
head with your arms. If you can get into a corner, do so. Police will
only turn to violence if they think it will get you talking, so keep
your mouth shut and you will keep safe. If given a phone call, do not
say anything incriminating over the phone. Call your lawyer if you
have one, if not call a good animal rights group and they will help
you out with one. By the way, no one has ever gotten off by giving
police the information they wanted or by turning in others. Its
important for ALF members to know their rights, since they are often
in possession of incriminating evidence, and allowing a search to
happen when you don't have to could be disastrous. When dealing with a
police officer it can fall under one of three categories. The first is
consensual contact. This means that you are not being held, are free
to go if you choose, and you do not have to talk to the officer. This
is the state you are in if they have no solid reason to suspect you of
any crime and just want to talk to you. In this situation you should
politely excuse yourself and leave, since talking to the officer will
give him the chance to look for spray-paint on your fingers, etc. The
next stage is detention. This means that they have reason to suspect
you, but not enough to arrest you on. In this situation you can not
leave, but of course should answer "no comment" to any questions. In
order to hold you in detention they must have SAF, or Specific and
Articulate Facts. Then of course there is arrest, which requires a
"high level of suspicion" that you have committed a crime. Only once
under arrest can you be searched, otherwise they must present a search
warrant. In any situation, if they begin a search, you should clearly
and repeatedly state that you object to it. Of course, most cops do
not follow the rules, but knowing them can both scare a cop (once you
say Specific and Articulate Facts they'll know not to mess with you)
and legally protect yourself.
Federal Agents and Grand Juries
The same holds true for speaking to federal agents and when called
to testify at a grand jury. A grand jury is an idea out of English
government, originally used for one government group to investigate
the actions of another. They were banned in the UK in 1933. In the
U.S. it is used to target and get information on citizens,
particularly those involved in social justice movements such as the
animal rights movement. A federal agent will call a grand jury, and
people will be subpoenaed. If called you will be either the target,
meaning the person they are trying to indicted, a suspect, meaning not
the target, but still suspected of illegal activity, or a witness,
meaning you aren't suspected, but they want information out of you.
Grand juries are meant to lead to indictments, but only one, Rod
Coranado, has ever come about. They are more often used to get
information on groups like the ALF and the people involved. In a grand
jury setting you basically have no rights. You have no right to remain
silent, no right to have a lawyer present. You may only have a lawyer
outside the room, contactable by phone. If you refuse to answer their
questions you can be placed in jail for up to 18 months. There is a
way to beat them though. Resist, resist, resist. When the grand jury
is called, refuse to show up. As soon as the agent is out the door
after delivering the subpoena, call every activist you know and tell
them what is happening. If they aren't familiar with grand juries,
explain it to them. Call every animal rights group you know of. Be
sure to contact less deeply involved people as well and inform them of
what to do, as these are the people they will target first, since they
are more likely to speak. Call a press conference and speak about what
is happening. Have a protest outside their federal building. Grand
juries are clearly unconstitutional. The last thing they want is
publicity. Speak out about this injustice and never, ever say a word
to them. This is exactly what was done when a grand jury was called in
Syracuse recently, and the grand jury quickly disappeared. Resist,
resist, resist.
Reporting Actions
If you choose to report your actions to a support group, send news
clippings or your own report, including the date, place, and what was
done. Write the reports on plain paper using block capital letters, or
a publicly accessible typewriter or computer, like the ones available
at a library. Photocopy the report a couple times at a public copier
to obscure details making it harder to trace. If handwriting it, you
may want to have more than one person write each letter. For an A,
have the first person write the /, the second write the \, the third
write the -, making a complete letter A. This will be much harder for
them to trace. Be certain not the leave fingerprints on the envelope,
paper, or stamp. Obviously don't sign the report or include your
address in the report or put a return address. Spell everything
correctly, since certain spelling errors are often common to certain
individuals. Wet the envelope glue and stamp with a sponge, don't lick
them as saliva is traceable. Always drop in a public mailbox, and
avoid using the same one frequently. After it is sealed and you are
sure it is evidence-free, seal it in a larger envelope so that it can
be safely handled. When you are dropping it off, rip an end off the
larger envelope and drop the smaller one into the mailbox without
touching it. When mailing in a communiqué, be careful where the post
mark is from. Don't mail in a report close to your home for an action
a state away. Assume whatever you send is first opened and read by the
government. Dropping it of anonymously at a supportive groups office,
or the house of a supportive above ground activist is safer than
mailing it.