ARSON AROUND with Auntie A.L.F.
alf_cl...@yahoo.com
your guide for putting the heat on animal abusers every where
by Auntie ALF, Uncle ELF, and the anti-copyright gang
(Note: this is mearly a shortened on-line version of this manual
which has not been reproduced in full. It is advisable to get a copy
of the full manual which contains many diagrams and news articles
which may or may not be useful. Available from the NA - A.L.F.S.G.. We
hope to bring you diagrams and more soon, but don't hold your breath.)
INTRODUCTION:
Hello, boys and girls, Auntie Alf here, with a handy-dandy booklet for
all of you -- not necessarily to encourage anyone to go out setting
fires of your own, (something that could get you in quite a bit of
trouble as I'm sure you know) -- but to help us all gain a better
understanding of some of the devices used in incendiary attacks as
carried out by the Animal Liberation Front.
The paragraphs which follow will describe the preparation of several
igniter (or "first fire") incendiary mixes, some basic incendiary
mixes, and a thermate metal-destroying incendiary. The subject of
incendiaries has been treated much more exhaustively in other
publications. The intent of this handbook is to provide an
introduction to a few techniques.
Arson is not always used by the A.L.F. in the course of an action, but
when it is, it can be devastatingly effective. Millions of dollars in
damage has been caused against fur-feed companies, slaughterhouses,
department stores and fur shops, fast-food restaurants and transport
trucks belonging to animal abuse industries. When incendiaries are
used in an action, the activist must make absolutely sure that no
animals, human or otherwise will be inadvertently injured or killed.
A.L.F. activists make sure that all buildings or vehicles are free of
creatures before lighting a single match. On more than one occasion
actions has taken months to plan and coordinate have been called off
in the middle of execution when a night watchman or other person's
life might inadvertently be endangered.
Arson is not a tool to take lightly, and carries very stiff penalties
if activists get caught. The assumption that evidence is destroyed by
fire is incorrect. Fire investigation units will turn up if the
origins of a fire appears suspicious. They possess a large degree of
skill and are able to determine the flash point of a fire and what
caused it (electrical fault, cigarette, candle, spontaneous
combustion, deliberate arson, etc.). They can also tell the flamable
substance which was used to start the fire (gasoline, paraffin, paper,
etc.). Activists know to TELL NO ONE of their plans and make sure they
LEAVE NO EVIDENCE behind at the scene.
GENERAL:
Good incendiaries can be improvised more easily than explosives and
the materials are more easily obtained. On a pound by pound basis,
incendiaries can do more damage than explosives against many types of
targets if used properly. There is a time lag, however, between the
start of the fire and the destruction of the target. During this
period the fire may be discovered and controlled or put out. An
explosive once detonated has done its work.
Incendiaries are cheap and little training is needed for their
preparation and use. Used in very carefully executed operations, the
act of sabotage may be concealed in the ashes of an "accidental" fire.
Fires may be started quickly and have reasonable chance of success if
the following few simple principles are observed:
1. See that there is plenty of air and fuel to feed the fire.
2. Use an incendiary that supplies a prolonged and persistent heat.
3. Start the fire low in the target structure and let it spread
naturally upwards.
4. Use reflecting surfaces such as corners, boxes, shelves, to
concentrate the heat.
5. Use drafts to spread the fire rapidly - near stairways, elevator
shafts.
6. Protect the fire from discovery during the first few minutes by
good concealment and timing.
In preparing improvised incendiaries observe basic rules of safety.
Chemicals that must be powdered should be ground separately with clean
tools and then mixed in the indicated proportions. Chemicals or
mixtures should be kept tightly sealed in jars or cans to protect them
from moisture. Damp materials will work poorly if at all.
DEFINITIONS:
Common terms used in connection with incendiary systems are defined
below. Note that the definitions are worded so as to cover only
incendiaries. Some of the terms have additional meanings in the
related field of explosives.
a. Delay Mechanism- Chemical ,electrical, or mechanical elements that
provide a time delay. Elements may be used singly or in combination.
They provide a predetermined, limited time interval before an
incendiary starts to burn.
b. Fuse- A flexible fabric tube containing powder that is used to
start fires at some remote location. The powder in the fuse burns and
provides a time delay.
c. Igniter- An intermediate charge between an initiator and an
incendiary material. It is set aflame by the initiator and produces
sufficient heat at high temperature to ignite the main incendiary.
Igniters are fast burning and relatively short lived.
d. Incendiary Material- A material that burns with a hot flame for
long periods. Its purpose is to set fire to wooden structures and
other combustable targets.
e. Incendiary System- A group of elements that are assembled to start
fires. The system consists of a initiator, delay mechanism (if
needed), igniter, and incendiary materials.
f. Initiator- The source that provides the first fire in an incendiary
system. A match is an initiator. The initiator is so sensitive that it
can be set off with little energy.
g. Spontaneous Combustion- The outbreak of fire in combustible
material that occurs without an application of direct spark or flame.
The fire is the result of heat produced by the chemical action of
certain oils.
h. Thermate- (also Thermite) An incendiary mixture of iron oxide
flakes and aluminum powder that reacts chemically when initiated to
form molten iron. Thermate can be used to burn holes in steel or to
weld steel parts together.
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES:
The equipment needed for the manufacture of incendiaries consists of
simple items. They are all readily available. Required are bottles,
jars, pots, and spoons. There should be no difficulty in obtaining any
of them. All the necessary equipment is described in each paragraph
dealing with particular incendiary component.
It is important that the operator follow the directions given in the
manual exactly as written. They have been worked out carefully to give
the desired results with the minimum chance of mishap. Don't
experiment with different procedures or quantities.
By its very nature, the diaries is dangerous. It is the function of
incendiaries to burn with an intense flame under right conditions.
Care must be taken that no fires result during the making or placing
of the devices. There are also other dangers in addition to the fire
hazard. The chemicals used as ingredients may burn the skin, give off
poisonous fumes, or be easily flammable. They must not be eaten.
When handled with care and proper precautions, incendiaries are fairly
safe to make and use. Detailed precautions follow:
Preventing a Fire Hazard
1. Fire prevention is much more important than fire fighting. Prevent
fires from starting.
2. Keep flammable liquids away from open flames.
3. Good housekeeping is the fire prevention. Keep work areas neat and
orderly. Clean away all equipment and material not needed at the
moment. Clean up spills as soon as possible.
4. Store incendiaries in closed containers away from heat. Do not
store materials any longer than necessary.
5. In the event of fire, remove from the danger area if this can be
done quickly and safely. Use large quantities of water to fight fires.
6. Horse play is dangerous and absolutely intolerable.
Avoiding Chemical Hazards
1. Wear rubber gloves, apron, and glasses when handling concentrated
chemicals if at all possible.
2. Avoid inhaling fumes. Perform reactions in a well ventilated area
or out of doors because the boiling is often violent and in large
amounts, fumes are given off that are poisonous if breathed too much.
3. Avoid acid contact with the skin. If chemicals are spilled on a
person, wash immediately in running water for several minutes. If they
splash in eyes, wash the eye in running water for at least 15 minutes.
4. Clean up any acid that is spilled on the floor or bench by flushing
with large amounts of water. Acid spilled on wood can cause a fire.
5. Always pour concentrated acids into water. Never pour water into
concentrated acids because a violent reaction will occur.
*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*
Potassium Chlorate and Sugar Igniter
Chlorate-sugar is one of the best of the first fire or igniter mixes.
It burns very rapidly, with a yellow-white flame and generates
sufficient heat to ignite all homemade incendiaries mentioned in this
handbook.
MATERIALS:
Potassium chlorate (preferred) or sodium chlorate, sugar, pestle,
glass or wood bowl.
PREPARATION:
1. Grind the chlorate separately in a clean, non-sparking (glass or
wooden) bowl with a wooden pestle. The resulting granules should
approximate those of ordinary table sugar.
2. Mix equal volumes of the granulated chlorate and sugar by placing
both on a large sheet of paper and the lifting the corners
alternately.
CAUTION:
This mixture is extremely spark sensitive and must be handled
accordingly.
3. Wrap 4 to 6 tablespoons of the mixture in thin paper so as to form
a tight packet. Keep the mixture as dry as possible. If it is to be
stored in a damp area before using, the packet may be coated with
paraffin wax.
APPLICATION:
Chlorate-sugar is easily ignited by the flame of a match, the spit of
a percussion cap or time fuse. If ignited when under confinement it
will explode like gun powder. If it is contained in waxed packet,
therefore, the latter should be punched through in several places
before it is used with a basic incendiary and ignited.
Flake Aluminum-Sulpher Igniter
This simple igniter burns extremely hot nad will ignite even the metal
destroying thermate, described later on. The mixture itself can be lit
by chlorate sugar.
MATERIALS:
Flake aluminum, finely powdered sulpher.
PREPARATION:
1. Mix 4 parts by volume of finely powdered sulphur with 1 part of
aluminum powder.
APPLICATION:
To use, place several spoonfuls of the mixture on the material to be
lit and add a spoonful of chlorate sugar on top. Be sure to safety
(time) fuse or other spark-producing delay system is placed so it will
act upon the chlorate sugar mixture first.
Homemade Black Powder Igniter
Black powder may be used for igniting napalm, flammable solvents in
open containers, paper, loose rags, straw and other tinder type
materials. If it is not available already mixed, it can be prepared as
follows:
MATERIALS:
Potassium (or sodium) nitrate, powdered charcoal, powdered sulphur.
PREPARATION:
1. Into a clean, dry jar or can, put 7 spoonfuls of potassium or
sodium nitrate, 2 spoonfuls of powdered charcoal, and 1 spoonful of
powdered sulphur. The ingredients must be at least as fine as
granulated sugar. If they must be ground, GRIND EACH SEPARATELY. Never
grind the mixed ingredients - they may ignite or explode.
2. Cap the can or jar tightly and shake and tumble it until the
ingredients are completely mixed.
APPLICATION:
The mixture will be effective for months if kept tightly sealed and
dry. Sodium nitrate in particular has a tendency to absorb moisture.
To use the gunpowder, pile 2 or 3 spoonfuls on top of any solid
incendiary material which is to be ignited. For igniting liquids in
open containers, wrap 2 or 3 spoonfuls in a piece of paper and suspend
it just above the liquid.
Gunpowder is best ignited by a safety fuse. It burns very quickly with
a great deal of heat, so allow sufficient time delay for safe withdraw
from the vicinity.
Match Head Igniter
A good ignition material for incendiaries can be obtained from the
heads of safety matches, which are available almost any place. The
composition must be removed from the heads to get a sufficient quality
of igniter material. It will ignite napalm, wax and sawdust, paper and
other flamables.
MATERIALS:
Safety matches.
PREPARATION:
1. Remove the match head composition by scraping with a knife or
crushing with pliers. Collect several spoonful of it and store in a
moisture tight container.
APPLICATION:
Put at least 2 spoonfuls on the material to be ignited. To ignite
liquids, such as solvents or napalm. Wrap several spoonfuls in a piece
of paper and hang this just over the fluid, or place nearby. If fluids
dampen the mixture it may not ignite. The ignition can be by time
fuse, firecracker fuse, or spark.
*INCENDIARY MATERIALS*INCENDIARY MATERIALS*
HOME-MADE NAPALM
This item consists of a liquid fuel which is gelled by the addition of
NON-DETERGENT soap powder or soap chips. It is easily prepared from
readily available materials. This incendiary can be directly initiated
by a match flame. However, if delay is required, the incendiary can be
reliably initiated by a delay system. Napalm incendiary is easily
ignited and long burning, and is suitable for setting fire to large
wooden structures and other large combustible targets: It adheres to
objects, even on vertical surfaces.
MATERIALS:
Soap powder or chips (bar soap can be easily shaved or chipped).
Detergents cannot be used. Any of the following liquid hydrocarbon
fuels: gasoline, fuel oil, diesel oil, kerosene, turpentine, benzol or
benzene, toloul or toluene. A double broiler made from any material
with the upper pot having the capacity of at least 2 quarts. A spoon
or stick for stirring, A source of heat such as a stove or hot plate.
A knife or grater if only bar soap is available. An air-tight
container.
PREPARATION:
1. Fill bottom of double broiler with water and heat until the water
boils. Shut off source of heat.
2. Place upper pot on top of the bottom pot and remove both containers
to a point several feet away from the heat source.
3. Pour soap chips or powder into the upper pot of the double broiler
to one-quarter of pot volume.
4. Pour any one of the liquid hydrocarbon fuels listed under MATERIALS
above into the upper pot containing the soap chips or powder until the
pot is one-half full. CAUTION: keep these fuels away from open
flames.
5. Stir the mixture with a stick or spoon until it thickens to a paste
having the consistency of jam. Do this in a well ventilated room where
the vapors will not concentrate and burn or explode from a flame or
spark.
6. If the mixture has not thickened enough after about 15 minutes of
stirring, remove the upper pot and put it several feet from the heat
source. Again bring the water in the lower pot to a boil. Shut off the
heat source, place upper pot in lower pot at a location several feet
from the heat source and repeat stirring until the napalm reaches the
recommended consistency.
7. When the proper consistency is obtained, store the finish napalm in
a tightly sealed container until used. Napalm will keep for months
when stored this way.
APPLICATION:
To use napalm most effectively, it should be spread out over the
surface of the material to be burned. This will start a large area
burning at once. A match can be used to directly initiate this
incendiary. A short time delay ignition can be obtained by tying or
taping a bundle of matches around a lighted cigarette. Ignition occurs
when the lighted portion of the burning cigarette reaches the match
heads. This assembly is placed directly on the napalm. Usually this
will ignite in 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the length of the
cigarette, make of cigarette and force of air currents. A duplicate
delay mechanism should be tested to determine the time delay for
various conditions.
The cigarette must be placed so that the flame will travel
horizontally or upward. A burning cigarette that is clamped or held
will not burn past the point of confinement. Therefore, the cigarette
should not contact any other object other than matches.
In very hot weather, or if the napalm is exposed to the direct rays of
the sun, it is recommended that napalm be made with fuel oil. In
extremely cold weather, it is recommended that napalm be made with
gasoline.
The destructive effect of napalm is increased when charcoal is added.
The charcoal will readily ignite and the persistent fire from the
charcoal will outlast the burning napalm. It is recommended that at
least one quart of napalm be used to ignite heavy wooden structures
and large wooden sections. A minimum of one-half quart is recommended
for wooden structures of small cross section.
Paraffin-Sawdust Incendiary
Paraffin-sawdust is almost as effective as napalm against combustible
targets, but it is slower in starting. It is solid when cool and thus
is more easily carried and used than liquid-napalm. In addition, it
can be stored indefinitely without special care.
MATERIALS:
Dry sawdust, paraffin, or candle wax, spoon, pot, container.
PREPARATION:
1. Put enough wax in the pot so that it is about half full.
2. Heat the pot on a stove or hot plate until the wax melts.
3. Remove the heated pot from the stove or hot plate and shut off the
source of heat. Add the sawdust to the melted wax until the wax is
nearly full. Stir the mixture this a spoon or stick for a few minutes,
being sure there is no layer of wax at the bottom of the pot which has
not been mixed with the sawdust.
4. While the mixture is in a fluid state, pour it into the waxed paper
carton or other container. Upon cooling, the wax mixture will harden
and take the shape of the container.
APPLICATION:
The mixture can be stored for months without losing its effectiveness.
If it becomes wet, it will be effective again when it is dried. Lumps
of the mixture the size of a fist are easiest to manage. The chunks of
incendiary may be carried to the target in a paper bag or other
wrapper. Any igniter that will set fire to the paper wrapper will
ignite the wax and sawdust.
A similar incendiary can be made by dipping sheets of newspaper into
melted wax and allowing them to cool. These papers may then be
crumpled up and used in the same manner as the paraffin-sawdust,
although they will not burn as hot and persistency.
Sawdust, Mothflakes, and Oil Incendiary
This incendiary is very good for use against all kinds of wooden
structures, including heavy beams and timbers. It also works well on
paper, rags, straw, and other timber type materials. It will start
fires in open containers of flammable liquids, piles of coal, coke, or
lumber, and on baled rags and paper. It is not effective against
metal.
MATERIALS:
Dry sawdust, moth flakes (naphthalene), fuel oil (kerosene or diesel
oil), spoon, container.
PREPARATION:
1. Place equal parts of sawdust, moth flakes, and oil into a container
and stir until the mixture is the consistency of mush.
2. Store it in any container that will retain the oil fumes.
APPLICATION:
An easy, effective way to use this mixture is to put about a quart of
it in a paper bag and place the bag on the target material. The bag
can be lit with a match and the mixture will ignite quite readily It
burns as well as napalm. If a longer delay time is required, use one
of the igniter mixes described earlier along with time fuse or other
delay device. The time fuse alone, however, will not ignite the
incendiary mix. Where very large wood beams are to be burned, an
additional amount of the incendiary will be required. Two or three
quarts is enough to destroy almost any target against which the
technique would be effective. For the greatest effect on wood
structures, the mixture should be placed beneath the target material,
if possible, so the flames will spread upward. In a packing box or
room, a corner is a good place to start the fire.
INCENDIARY BRICK
This incendiary is composed of potassium chlorate, sulphur, sugar,
iron filings and wax. When properly made, it looks like an ordinary
building brick and can be easily transported without detection. The
incendiary brick will ignite wooden walls, floors, and many other
combustible objects, and can be hidden amongst building supplies at
construction sites (wood piles, etc). This incendiary can be directly
ignited by all igniters listed in this booklet coupled with a
cigarette delay or similar mechanism.
MATERIALS:
Parts by volume
Potassium chlorate (powdered)-----------------40
Sulphur (powdered)----------------------------15
Granulated sugar------------------------------20
Iron filings----------------------------------10
Wax (paraffin or ordinary candle wax)---------15
Spoon or stick, Brick mold, Red paint, Measuring cup or can, Double
boiler, Heat source (hot plate or stove).
PREPARATION:
1. Fill the bottom half of the double boiler with water and bring to a
boil.
2. Place the upper half of the boiler on the lower portion and add the
wax, sulphur, granulated sugar, and iron fillings in proper amounts.
3. Stir well to blend all the materials evenly.
4. Remove the upper half of the double boiler from the lower portion
and either shut off the heat source or move the upper section several
feet from the fire. Caution: Extreme care should be exercised at this
point because accidental ignition of the mixture is possible. Some
means of extinguishing a fire should be at hand, a fire extinguisher
or sand. It is important to keep face, hands, and clothing at a
reasonably safe distance during the remainder of the preparation. A
face shield and fireproof gloves are recommended.
5. CAREFULLY add the required amount of potassium chlorate and again
stir well to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
6. Pour the mixture into a brick mold and set aside until it cools and
hardens.
7. When hard, remove the incendiary from the mold, and paint it red to
simulate a normal building brick.
APPLICATION:
When painted, the incendiary brick can be carried with normal
construction materials and placed in or on combustible materials. A
short time delay or ignition can be obtained by combining a cigarette
delay and one of the igniter mixtures listed earlier. (For example,
several spoonfuls of Sugar-Chlorate mixture are placed on the
incendiary brick. A cigarette delay or similar timed device is
partially buried in the center of the igniter mixture (match heads
should be in close contact with the igniter).
Thermate Incendiary
Thermate is similar to commercial thermite, used in welding, except
that it also contains an oxidizer, making it easier to ignite.
Thermate will readily burn paper, rags, excelsior, straw and other
tinder type materials. However, its main use in sabotage operations is
against motors, gears, latches and other metal targets--to weld moving
parts together, warp precision machined surfaces, and so on. Since it
burns with a brief, almost explosive action, it is not recommended for
burning wooden structures or other materials where persistent heat is
required. Thermate can be made from aluminum or magnesium powder and a
chemical oxidizing agent, as described below:
MATERIALS:
Aluminum filings powder or flakes, or magnesium filings or powder,
plus any one of the following chemicals: potassium nitrate, sodium
nitrate, barium nitrate, potassium dichromate, or potassium
permanganate. Although aluminum and magnesium are equally effective,
thermate made from magnesium is easier to ignite. Flake aluminum,
which is the extremely fine variety used in paints, is excellent. In
any case, both the metal and chemical ingredients should be no coarser
than granulated sugar.
PREPARATION:
1. Fill a quart size (or larger) container about 2/3 full of equal
parts of the metal powder and the oxidizing agent.
2. Cover with a tight lid, then roll and tumble the container until
the contents are completely mixed.
3. If flake aluminum is the metal used, fill the container * full of
the aluminum then add oxidizing agent until the container is 3/4 full.
Mix as described above. Thermate in a sealed container can be stored
for months.
APPLICATION:
To use, put 1 or 2 pounds of the mixture in a paper bag and place it
on the target in such a way that when it burns the red hot molten
material will run down and attack the vital parts. Chlorate-sugar and
aluminum-sulphur igniters are best for setting off thermate,
particularly if the thermate contains aluminum powder, which is more
difficult to ignite.
Incendiary Device
The following is an example of an incendiary device that is popular
amongst European A.L.F. activists and was put to good use in Holland
against a number of vehicles belonging to meat companies.
MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:
Empty toilet-roll, iron wire, plastic-wrap, matches, wire garbage
ties, firelighters, incense, tape, 2L plastic bottle, gasoline.
HOW THEY MAKE THEM:
1. Take 3 sticks of incense, and wire the 3 wood stems together using
wire garbage ties. Use some string if need be to keep the incense
close together.
2. Tie as many matches as possible on the incense sticks, near the
bottom of the burnable incense material. The incense sticks act as a
fuse, lighting the matches. Make sure the match heads are very close
together so they will ignite.
3. Take a piece of iron wire and wrap it around the ends of the
incense sticks, with the 2 ends loose.
Make a hole in the side of the toilet-roll, roughly 1/4 up from the
bottom. Hang the incense bundle inside and pull the 2 loose wire ends
through it. The incense bundle should be secured in the middle of the
tube, and should not touch the insides.
Fold the 2 wires, each to one side and secure them with tape. MAKE
SURE THAT THIS CONSTRUCTION IS STRONG, IF YOU SHAKE IT AROUND A BIT
THE INCENSE SHOULD STAY IN ITS PLACE. USE STRONG WIRE AND TAPE.
4. Secure a square of plastic wrap around the bottom of the toilet
tube with the tape.
5. Break the heads off of at least two small boxes of wooden matches.
Take fire-lighters (the ones you use for your vegan BBQ) and break
them into little pieces. Mixing the matches and firelighters together,
put them inside the toilet tube, filling closely to the matches tied
onto the incense sticks.
6. Cut off several long lengths of iron wire (4 pieces for each
device) and twist them together like this: *(wires are 10cm/4 inch.)
*picture shown here
leaving 2 ends untwisted. Secure the toilet tube within the open wires
and continue to twist the loose ends together, tight. Secure the wire
in place near the top of the toilet tube with some tape, keeping it in
place. The wire ends must be at least 10cm long.
7. The device is now ready, and can be transported inside a small box.
Fold the wire like this *(picture shown) to protect the incense sticks
during transportation.
8. Each 2L plastic pop bottle should be 3/4 full of gasoline. When you
arrive at your target, cut the tops of the bottles off with a stanley
knife. Put the bottles under the target (i.e. behind the front wheels
of a meat truck). Take the device and fold the iron wires into their
old position. Light the incense sticks (all three) BEFORE you place
the devices in the bottles.
9. Make sure that the bottom of the device is not hanging in the fuel.
If necessary, fold the iron wires so the device hangs higher. The
incense will burn down and light the match heads tied at the base.
These will flame and ignite the match heads and firelighters. All of
this will melt through the plastic wrap and fall into the gasoline.
Maximum damage guaranteed.
DO NOT LEAVE EVIDENCE! Always wear gloves when in contact with any of
the materials making up this device. Do not leave anything behind at
the scene (i.e. tops of bottles, box for transport, etc.). Never
forget to bring a sharp knife with you to cut the bottles. Always
check to see if there are people or animals in the area or inside the
target who might get hurt by your action. Good luck!
This booklet is anti-copyright. Please feel free to make many copies
and distribute far and wide. Remember, fire can be an effective tool,
but must be used with caution. Be safe and make sure to never endanger
any person or animal by your actions. LEAVE NO EVIDENCE --- always
wear gloves and protect your work space and your materials from hair,
fiber, fingerprints and DNA traces that might lead back to you or your
active cell. Good Luck!
********************************************************************************
Time Delayed Incendiary Devices
This is another simple electrically timed incendiary device for use in
both buildings and vehicles. Make sure you don't leave any finger
prints on any part of the device, wear gloves at all times when
manufacturing and placing any incendiary device. All you need is a
mechanical kitchen timer, a brand new 9v battery (w/cap), an
automobile backup light bulb, some thin electrical wire, some strike
anywhere matches and a soldering iron.
First you break off glass on the bulb so as to expose the filament,
being careful not to break it. Heating the glass with a lighter and
then touching it to cold water usually does the trick. (Instead of a
light bulb you may want to use a model rocket engine igniter.)
Now with your soldering iron, attach one wire from the battery cap to
the tip of the bulb, and then solder a 6-8 inch length of wire to the
metal side of the bulb's base. (When the other tip of this wire is
connected to the second wire from the battery cap/battery, the circuit
will be complete and the matches will ignite . . . that's the general
idea.)
Take the kitchen timer and glue a toothpick or match stick to the
rotating pointer, in effect extending the circumference of the
rotation. Glue the two loose ends of the wire to the non-moving
section of the timer at the 12 - o'clock position, so that the
toothpick on the pointer will connect the two wires when it winds down
to zero. (Make sure not to connect the battery until you are about to
set the timer).
Now you can set your timer for up to an hour and leave. You will need
a little more to make your fire go. Suggestions include attaching
match heads to the igniter and putting it in a pile of fire-starter
gel, next to a plastic bag of starter fluid in the middle of a pile of
charcoal, or in a small packet containing a mixture of half sodium
chlorate (weed killer) or potassium nitrate (saltpeter) and half white
granulated sugar. You can help along your fire by placing your device
on top of or beside a plastic container of any flammable liquid
(kerosene/gasoline/etc.).