Using Manual Tyre Changer
Kristin Banyas
Looking for advice on the cheap, manual tire changers. Reviews are mixed, not that I put a lot of faith in them. So I am asking you guys for real world user input. I don't have the space or need to buy a tire machine. It would see occasional use for trailer, wagon and front tractor tires with the occasional lawnmower tire for good measure. Thanks in advance.
Can't say on anything current but I know years ago buddy's dad had a manual tire changer in his garage. We used it a lot and I don't recall bending or breaking anything. But it was probably heavier duty than some available now?
I have a rim clamp machine now that works pretty good for tractor fronts as well as wagon tires and can change out and fix our car tired as well on aluminum wheels. I can do up to 20" rims. I have around a 1000 in it. My guess is you will need roughly the same working floor space wether it be a manual or powered machine.
I did buy a harbor freight one and it worked real well. I would recommend two things though! On the piece that presses on the bead would be to weld in a piece between the two strips that hold the piece that pushes the bead. The other is to make a stronger bar that installs the bead back on the rim. I changed out four tires in less than two hours. I mounted it on the center of the garage floor and remove it when not in use.
i had one from Gemplers that i mounted in the middle of a 4x4 sheet of 3/4" plywood that had 2x10's nailed on the back side for added support, that way i could stand on it so it wouldn't move around but yet i was able to move out of the way when not in use.
Breaking the bead is easy, but getting the tire over the lip of the rim is very difficult. Everyone online seems to be able do it with ease. eg. here's one where a guy does it for the first time. =RWXEwDH3F8k When I use the tool to pull the tire up over the lip of the rim and spin the tool around the rim, the bit of tire behind the tool edge that I've pulled over slips back under. The demo videos online show the tire staying above the rim once it's been pulled up. I've tried sticking another tool in at the same time to prevent this from happening, but this doesn't seem to work well either. I have the "truck" tire changer for 16-20" rims and I'm practising with
I've got the Tractor Supply version of that floor-mounted hammer, and I've had varying levels of success with it. The effectiveness of the tool seems to be tied directly to the flexibility of the tire with older, harder, and/or lower-profile tires being very difficult and super-tall, flexy snow tires being cake. Helping a friend, we had a couple Camabird tires that would just not release from the rim. If I recall, we could get one side off, but trying to lift the tire completely off the rim just wasn't happening -- same thing you're describing.
I'd try more lube on the rim and the sidewall, a bit of pipe on the tire iron for more leverage, and using additional tire irons to try to keep the removed portion off the rim. I've also found that using the funky little curved end is usually a fool's errand and that the wide and flat part works best. Sometimes, spinning the iron around the rim doesn't work and you need to just lever the tire over the rim bit by bit. Carefully applied heat could also give the sidewall enough flex, but I have no idea if that would damage the tire.
i have no problems with it, but i would never use it on rims i liked or wanted to keep pretty. especially not aluminum ones. i use it mostly on my truck tires, i run trim rings on all my trucks with steel wheels so i could care less that it scratches the crap out of the edge of the rim.
I use multiple pry bars. I have 2 of the giant red "pry tools" and a tire spoon and a motorcycle tire spoon, rubber mallet. Between 4 tire spoons, a rubber mallet, a dry tire and rim (if its lubed everything slips and its near impossible), two hands, two forearms, all my abdomen muscles and usually a thigh, I get them off.
Use the large pry bar/spoon to lift a portion of the bead over the rim, hold that in place. Go 6-12" away and do that again with another spoon/prybar. Now lock one of those pry bars in place with your awesome strength and coordination while pulling the other tool away . May need to use rubber mallet, may need to do that in 4 spots, and you will crush your fingers.
Taking tires off though.. This tool rocks.. if nothing else even if going at it with spoons it holds the tire in place so you can work. I broke the HF pry bar doing a CV joint/ ball joint install on a car.. So I replaced it with one of the cheap HF spoon/pry bars welded into some old steel tubing.. It works excellent
I have beefed up my changer with some extra steel in a couple places, and it helped the bead breaker tremendously.. I also wrapped parts of it with an old commercial floor mat, rubber side out, to help protect the wheels..
I have some new Falkens to put on some 13 x 5.5 alloys. The existing crusty Uniroyals need removing. I want to spend some time cleaning up the beads etc, so taking them to a tyre fitter twice is a bit of a pain, plus I hear they now want 20 a corner?!?.
Just been quoted 20 a corner again from a tiny place just up the road. I was hoping to find some lad there who'd do it for beers or cheap but no they have a swanky reception area and receptionist so no chance ?
There's a deffinate process and technique getting the tyre bead in the correct part of the wheel well otherwise you will ruin the tyre or wheel trying to stretch the bead over the rim. I almost gave up several times.
I have since bought a bar designed for alloy wheels (not cheap) which I used on my Vitesse alloys as I found all the valves were perished. Needed lots of padding and protection to the rim, getting one half of the tyre bead removed to get to the valves.
In my case, I had loads of tyres to remove from old steel wheels, so definately saved me money, and has been handy for replacing valves, and the odd tyre, but that was after lots of practice and failures.
If I bought a new set of wheels and tyres I would get them professionally fitted and balanced, as unless your very careful and had lots of practice, it's very easy to damage a tyre or rim in my experience.
I bought a sealey manual tyre changer years ago (similar to this ). Works great once you get the knack (get some tyre soap, push the bead as far into the wheel centre as possible). Requires bolted to the garage floor using something like this ( ) . Unbolt and fill the holes using countersunk bolts when not in use (similar to ). Definitely requires a lever/bar upgrade for alloy (and even steel) wheels. I use something like this
I had a similar dilemma - cleared over 40 rusty wheels and tyres from behind my garage. Spent a sweaty morning removing them from rims with my manual changer, nice pile of rims to weigh in. But what to do with they tyres? Same story to begin, began puttng 4 in the boot to take to the dump, each time we were passing, rotating the cars. Dropped into a local classic car owning butcher on the way home from a night shift and was chatting about how long it might take, the butcher had a light bulb moment and said he might know someone who could help. A quick phone call was made, "is 20 ok?" he said. Duly agreed I went home to await for a "helpful person" to arrive. At 10am on the dot a small white van turned up, and who should jump out .... the man from the dump! Happy days ?
I have a changer that was too cheap not to buy 40 brand new. She is worth that second hand any day of the week. It is Rawl bolded to the workshop floor. The tyre iron is a bit pants so I bought a heavy duty one suitable for alloys also a good set of 3 ft tyre levers. Also got a full size bucket of soap, brushs, a good tub of soloution and a box of proper patches. Not that I have used her much.
Tire changers are essential tools in any garage, enabling the removal and installation of tires from vehicle wheels. They come in two main types: hydraulic and manual. Each has its unique features, benefits, and challenges. But to give insights into the hydraulic vs. manual tire changer debate, here are the pros and cons of each type:
Manual tire changers are tools used to remove and install tires onto the rims of vehicle wheels. They differ significantly from their automatic or semi-automatic counterparts in their operation, requiring more physical effort and skill from the user. Understanding the pros, cons, and ideal situations for using manual tire changers can help determine when they are the best choice.
Manual tire changers consist of a stand with a clamping mechanism to hold the wheel in place and a lever-operated tool to pry the tire off the rim. These devices require the user to physically manipulate the tire and rim, using the lever to break the tire bead and then pry the tire away from the rim. The process is then reversed to install a new tire.
Hydraulic tire changers are automotive equipment designed to remove and install tires on vehicle wheels. They utilize hydraulic systems to apply controlled pressure, making changing tires more efficient and less labor-intensive than manual methods.
A hydraulic tire changer operates using a hydraulic system that generates force through the compression of fluid, typically oil. This system powers various components of the tire changer, such as the bead breaker, turntable, and mounting/demounting tool.
We invite you to explore our extensive collection of top-tier tire changers, including state-of-the-art hydraulic models designed to streamline your workflow and enhance efficiency. Whether you're a professional auto shop looking for speed and precision or a commercial enterprise needing robust and reliable equipment, JMC Equipment has the perfect solution for you.
It looks like a semi automatic tyre changer and the four claws is controlled by a wrench that can clamp wheels with inside or outside clamping techniques. A tyres bead is broken by means of downward force on the bead breaking attachment.
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