ThisSansa is from my father, it is practically new, I remember he had problems while doing the first charge, the computer enter in hibernation mode and it wasnt a complete charge as it is recommended.
Arent any tricks that can be tried with the battery (I remember reading some years ago about cycles of full discharge and charge, but sounded like a myth really) ? What about changing the battery by myself ? Can someone get a battery for the player in some place ?
Im going to call to that number and see what they tell me, though I dont think the guarantee would apply here (the only brand I found that applies an internation guaranty policity with very few limits is Western Digital).
Charge it completely for a few hours. Let it play until it stops. Take note of how long it played. Filling the battery completely and letting it play until it stops, then charging it completely, and perhaps repeating this cycle is how the battery meter on the player gets recalibrated.
But if you still are within warranty (and perhaps even otherwise), I would telephone (better than emailing) SanDisk: less than 3-4 hours of battery life after a year is not normal, and the recharging that was being done was not excessive or harmful. And what the heck: the phone call is free and might result in a positive solution.
After reading through the Battery University page, I began thinking about his usage and habits with his Clip. The battery damage could quite likely have been caused by his habit of tossing the clip and headphones on the dash of his truck and leaving it there for extended periods of time in the Summer sun.
The price of memory cards too, are coming down and the lower sized ones (like 2 & 4GB) can be obtained very reasonably now, so doubling or even tripling the size of his memory space (and music library) is not a huge financial hardship.
I soldered on a nokia battery. BL4C. The only thing is, the battery gauge is a little wonky. It reads only in identical digits. 55% or 88%. The nokia battery is thwice the power of the old one and I wonder whether the circuits can adapt to the change?
I have used the Sandisk Clip Zip for some years now and I am really happy with the product in combination with rockbox! The mp3-player is really small, has an outstanding battery life, can play lossless audio files and features GAPLESS PLAYBACK. Would definitely replace battery again for this piece of ART.
Standard replacement battery for a sansa clip zip is a 303038P, available from ebay, ali express, and possibly some battery specialty retailers even at this date (June 2018). The larger battery you have used might not allow you to close the case. If that is correct, an uncased mp3 player is more than I will pay for an extra 7% in battery life.
So glad I read your post! I thought it was only a one year warranty and was about to bin the player. After reading your post I realised I was still in warranty by a few months. I emailed support and less than 3 weeks later I have recieved a brand new player! :smiley:
we have had several players that have had the battery die some i have used battery packs on to get them to work but after a while they charge less and less and eventialy just wont work and actually get hottt!!! and will just not come on . does any one have any new battery videos abi is no longer there also what batterys are now 2 ebay links were a bust
About ten days ago, the battery went dead on our 2008 Edge, causing us to jump start it. Shortly thereafter we noticed that the display on the stereo reads out a series of zeros, ie: 00000000. It will not eject the CD's that were previously inserted. Was the jump start the cause of the problem; and is there a simple solution?
I pulled the fuse, left it out for 15 seconds, then replaced it, but no change to the problem. I did not mention the first time that when I push the button to load or unload the CD cartridge, or if I try to play a CD, the display reads "Initializing". At times, I can also hear a motor running inside the unit.
Might try reaching out to Tricia, the Ford customer service rep who monitors this forum... -fordservice/; or maybe Rebecca from the Tech Team... -fordivtteam/ . Especially if this is a known issue as may be eluded to in macbwt's reply.
I reached out to the Ford Customer Service Rep, who was not able to provide any help. Yesterday, I pulled the whole unit out of the dash, took it apart, and got the CD's out of the changer. I was hoping that maybe there was a jammed CD causing the problem. But when I reinstalled the unit back in the car dash, I still have the same problem.
I checked with my local Ford service dept. this morning. Essentially they told me that my options were to purchase a remanufactured unit thru them for around $400, go to a Best Buy and get an aftermarket unit, or buy a used one on ebay and install it myself. So it looks like it is going to be at least a $200 solution.
Back in early January, I had posted this question regarding my CD player that had died. I received a lot of feedback, such as removing and reinserting the fuse, disconnecting the battery, etc. None of this worked. I contacted the Ford Rep, who did not give me any help. I went to my local Ford dealer shop, whose only suggestion was a remanufactured unit for $400+.
This is my wife's car, so I don't drive it every day. But about two weeks ago, I did drive it, and noticed that the previous error messages and the constant 000000 showing on the stereo display were absent. So I put an old CD in, and wonder of wonders, the CD player was working again.
My Kenwood DPC-472 is consuming lots of AA batteries, so I thought I would try to run it via the AC adapter to save batteries.
I removed the batteries and plugged in the adapter to a 120V socket and into the AC plug on the unit. I inserted a disk, made sure the Hold switch was not switched on, and pressed Play. 00 flashed on the screen, and the unit turned off. I replaced the batteries, keeping the AC adapter plugged in, and got the same behavior.
When the AC adapter is plugged in, it appears the device defaults to the AC power.
I ended up opening up the device, unplugging the power source plugs from the board (AC and battery), and then plugging them back in again, making sure they were fully seated. I managed to play a CD with just the AC connection plugged in, and it continued to function after I plugged in the battery connection. I think the connection had loosened over time (and falls). It is running now.
Make sure you're using the correct AC adapter and the adapter itself is working properly. Essentially, the AC adapter is a step-down transformer enclosed in a plastic case which converts 120v AC to 12v DC power. You could try to find something similar to test this adapter with,,, a small DVD player, radio, etc. Also make sure the connection from AC power to the DC unit is nice, snug, and clean. I hope this helps. One more thing. There may be a small reset button somewhere on the unit. If so use a pen. paper clip, etc and gently push the reset button. Again, I'd like to know if this helps or you find another resolution. Thanks.
I am using the AC adapter that came with the device. I ended up opening up the device, unplugging the power source plugs from the board (AC and battery), and then plugging them back in again, making sure they were fully seated. I managed to play a CD with just the AC connection plugged in, and it continued to function after I plugged in the battery connection. I think the connection had loosened over time (and falls). It is running now.
And of course if it hasn't tripped you would have power at the receptacle. If it's running now that's great! Be aware that soldered connections on the board can become corroded and as you said loose over time. If you're comfortable using a soldering iron and a little flux you could apply a light tin coat to the iron and re-solder the connections.
Sam wants to take his MP3 player and his video game player on a car trip. An hour before they plan to leave, he realized that he forgot to charge the batteries last night. At that point, he plugged in both devices so they can charge as long as possible before they leave.
This task has students engaging in a simple modeling exercise, taking verbal and numerical descriptions of battery life as a function of time and writing down linear models for these quantities. To draw conclusions about the quantities, students have to find a common way of describing them. There are three solution techniques presented below:
There are also ample opportunities to talk about the role of modeling here, touching on mathematical practice standard MP4. How reasonable is it that the output units are reported as percents? Does the model hold for all time? In particular, note that the model predicts that the percent charged grows linearly for all time, even beyond 100%!
If the task is done in small groups, different groups would likely use different representations in their solutions. Having groups present their answers could lead to a rich discussion on connecting different representations of functions.
The battery charge of both devices can be modeled with linear functions. The wording describing the MP3 player suggests a linear function since it uses a constant rate of change. The table of values for the video game player shows a constant rate of change for the first 30 minutes. It is a reasonable assumption that the battery will continue to charge at the same rate. However, it is an assumption on our part. (Another possibility would be that as the battery charge approaches 100%, the rate of change decreases, but that would be much harder to model.)
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