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[Eliecer Brathwaite]

HelloI just ordered the brand new Leica Q3 and I'm wondering which type of SD card I should buy. Especially, I'm wondering if a writing speed of 200MB/s is enough or if I need to take a 300MB/s ? I will use the camera almost exclusively to take photos, I will probably try the video but it won't be my main usage. I guess I will store my picture both in RAW and JPG.

There's a header at the top of these forums that gives details of suitable cards for Leica cameras. Having said that, like you I probably won't be doing much video, but I want to try some time lapse sequences. Consequently, I bought a Kingston Canvas React Plus 128GB SD Card SDXC UHS-II 300R/260W U3 V90 card to cope with my usage.

Which leads me to a question I have yet to see addressed. Most posts and recommendations for cards are for 128GB. 256GB and 512Gb cards obviously exist. Why are they not mentioned? Is 128 a sweet spot? Are there problems with 256 and above? Anyone wishing to pipe in would be appreciated. In a recent trip to Europe one 128GB card was not sufficient in the Q2. Thanks.

Sounds reasonable. I generally format the card before any outing. This has worked every time in the past with all my cams. However, on vacation, unless I have my computer to offload the images, I just keep adding on. I'll give it more thought.

probably because most people are coming from lower MP cameras where 128GB gets you >1000 DNG files whereas in the Q3 with 128GB you'll get something like 750 DNG files. I usually offload my images after a day of shooting and format the card in camera. I've been doing this for 13 years and never had a card fail or a bent pin (with CF cards). Card failures are pretty rare and I wouldn't base my purchase decision on fear. If my card fails with one shot I really like is this worse/equal/better compared to a card that fails with 100 mediocre shots?

Bigger cards are usually better GB/$. I've been shooting with Sony M Tough in my R5 and now Q3. It's 277MB/s read and 150MB/s write speed. The Sony Tough cards are IP68 certified and better constructed than other brands. Compared to the Sony G Tough the write speed is reduced but I don't shoot bursts or video with the Q3 so the write speed is not important to me. If you want to shoot video or fast sequences, obviously go with a V90. If you shoot stills only a V60 is sufficient.

Before I even got my Q3 I was stressing which card to get. I read stories about people saying If you don't use Sandisk Extreme Pro 300mb/s cards your camera will crash, be slow and certain video features won't work etc. My Q3 ending up shipping overnight so I didn't have enough notice to get a new card so I used a old Lexar 128GB 150mb/s read and 70mb/s write card I got back in 2016. I figured I would try it out to test the camera and I world order a new card asap. Guess what? That was back in August and I've been using the same card since then. I have zero issues and everything works perfect. Don't believe the hype that you need a V90 card because clearly you don't. I even shot 8K video on the old card for 10 minutes without problems. I just got a new card this week a Lexar 256GB 1800x card only because the card from 2016 is old with lots of use and I don't want it to fail on me, but speed wise I see no difference with the camera, only the pictures transfer faster to the computer that's it.

I'm using my legacy (Q2) Lexr Professional SD cards with 300Mb/s transfer rates which seem to work okay. Now that I have even more pixels to save compared to the Q2 I might invest in a bigger SD card when I can afford it.

just received an email about the Roon Nucleus ( sale). After doing some research it appears that is must be hard wired into my router? This would be a deal breaker since my router is my basement. Is there a way to just use wifi to connect it??

It is not recommended to use wifi at all for a Roon Core, that is why it is not offered.

However you could use possibly a USB wifi dongle but again it is not a Roon recommended method for Core connection, which the Nucleus is.

So there would be a good chance for you to suffer a sub par Roon experience which is not what Roon wants.

If you have a very good WiFi connection you can try using a WiFi access point that will convert WiFi to Ethernet. They usually work at around 300mb/s which is more than enough for Roon. So long as you can do it without introducing too much latency it should be transparent to Roon. Another method (which I use) is Ethernet over power. Again not recommended by Roon but if you have good in house wiring and modern high capacity power plugs then it works flawlessly as I can attest.

But as correctly pointed out, the best and the supported way is to make a direct Ethernet connection between your network and Nucleus.

My Nucleus+ is connected via ethernet to a remote Eero node (mesh wifi) and it works perfectly. The Nucleus has >80K tracks on internal storage and 6K tracks from Tidal - no issues searching or streaming to multiple Sonos endpoints throughout the house.

Last night I went out to try my new lens and was surprised how poor my views of Jupiter were from not just that eyepiece but my other ones also. In the weeks I had owned my scope it was the first time the sky was really different. In hindsight I am thinking I am thinking I should have expected the seeing conditions to have been terrible given the weather.

Earlier it rained. At one time a few drops of rain fell and I moved me and my equipment under cover. It has been cold and very windy the last few days and I was sneaking peaks inbetween clouds just to try out the eyepiece. The clouds were moving at quite a clip so even though mybe 4/5 of the sky was cloudy a minute of pacing gave be a break to see Jupiter. To my eyes though the sky above the clouds looked dark and a good number of stars were visible when the openenings presented themselves.

Take a look at the 2 maps I've posted below. Do you see the wavy-lines? Those are called 'isobars.' They indicate the barometric-pressure along that line is the same. The next line to these also have the same pressure along it. They only differ from the other by 1 percent of the next. So 1 line may be 30.1" barometric-pressure, while the one next to it is 30.2" and so forth. But when these lines are closer together, this shows rapidly changing isobars. This indicates a disturbance in the weather will happen quickly - and this can be read as rain, high-winds, and even a tornado. So the closer the isobars are to each other, the atmosphere is changing quickly - at ground-level, or higher up in the atmosphere.

"Seeing" refers to stability of the air, "transparency" refers to clarity. Hazy, stable air has good seeing and poor transparency; clear, turbulent air will have poor seeing, good transparency. For planetary viewing, high-power double-star splitting etc, you want good seeing. For DSOs (galaxies and nebulae) you want good transparency.

When a rain front passes you can have cold, clear air behind - people say the rain has "cleaned the air", though really the air has just moved. This clear air can have excellent transparency, ideal for DSO viewing, but can also be highly turbulent, with poor seeing. It sounds like this is what you experienced.

On breezy nights you'll have no problem from mists (or dewing on optics) - all good for DSOs. Completely calm nights can be beautifully clear, but those can also be nights when mists and haze form. Those stable conditions can be great for planetary viewing.

I've had some of my best DSO sessions in the immediate aftermath of heavy rain - or in breaks between downpours. A raincover for your scope can be a handy thing. But that's only when there's a front passing. So it's a good idea to have a barometer.

Above answer is an excellent explanation. The only thing I would add is that I've recently become aware of the impact that the Jetstream has on seeing conditions for planetary viewing. When the high speed winds are overhead, conditions tend to be bad, will comparatively little detail visible. When the Jetstream shifts, as it has done a few times recently, the views can be dramatically better.

The effect of the jetstream was something we were told about in university whilst doing a visual project.The "Model Data" section of is my favourite resource, the 200mb, 300mb and the shear graphs seem to be the most important

At least, I have noticed that you can't predict from the number of stars how the seeing is. I have experienced a lot of bad seeing this winter, also when a lot of stars were visible. But I've written in my log often that there was no point in using high magnification, while the scope was cooled down properly. Luckily, at the double Jupiter moon transit, the seeing was pretty good again, so it is not the scope itself.

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