Re: Lasercut 5.3
Shaneka Incomstanti
Hi, my Lightburn is not compatible with my laser so I export the dxf and then import into lasercut 5.3. I am struggling so much to export a file that lasercut will read. Is there a procedure to do this as Im a novice and cant find anything on the tutorials
Many thanks in advance
Martin
Thank you for your reply
Can I ask apart from coreldraw and illustrator is there any other software I can buy that will allow me to export images as dxf as I need to be able to laser on to my clients wooden caskets with the image of their beloved pet.
Many Thanks
M
LaserCut should be able to load a bitmap image and run that, without saving as a DXF. Does that work? If you have the image in LightBurn, you can select it, then go to File > Export Processed Bitmap and it will save the image after doing all the processing, dithering, etc.
Hi
I seem to have hit another problem which I hope that you can help me with
I would like to engrave a a photon either in an oval frame or feathered, which ever I do the processed bitmap is square and the white area around the image or frame is visible and the laser engraves as such. Is there a feature in LB to make a frame and import photo into, if not any advice on how to save a PS file so that the square canvas is not shown
Many Thankls
Martin
Hi
This is great but I cant save the image as a processed bitmap for some reason in order to export for lasercut software
My laser apparently is sold with your software, I have contacted them for drivers mac or pc but no response, do you know if there are driver for LB for my machine
I am not following what you are trying and what results you are getting. LaserCut is software for the Leetro control system which is not currently supported in LightBurn. Checking the link you provided shows this reseller identifying LightBurn compatibility, so we have to assume they are not using Leetro. Please verify the controller you have installed on your system.
Last screen during the installation of LightBurn, check the box to install drivers. Have a review of this to help. Continue through completion of the Simple Project to become familiar with the basics of LightBurn: Installing Lightburn - LightBurn Software Documentation
Hi Rick
Unfortunately my laser is Leetro,
When I masked the photo I lost the ability to save as a processed bitmap but since I rtecived your reply I have found that I have to flatten the image first.
If i require a boarder around the image is it better to add before or after flattening and saving as a processed bitmap.
It would be greatly appreciated if you could support my laserscript, happy to pay extra
Many Thanks
M
Hello,
I'm very new to using ArcGIS Pro and ArcMap. I only started about two weeks ago. Currently, I am trying to export from ArcGIS Pro 2.0 to AutoCAD 2015 in order to create a file to be lasercut. Whenever I use the export to CAD tool, it doesn't export to the right scale and it doesn't export the entire view frame properly.
I picked up a laser cutter/engraver about 2 years ago to make 3D Topos and engraved maps with it. I've made it through about 15 map projects with it so far. Would love to talk shop with you if you're still active with Maps & Lasers.
I am looking to purchase an Original Ultimaker, but would prefer not to use wood. I was hoping to be able to find an assembly kit which allowed me to purchase all of the hardware, and laser cut the the wood components myself, but have had no such luck. Im sure I cant be the only one who is interested in this, so does anyone have any advice on this?
Unless you want to source everything yourself (its definitely possible, others have done so...) Im pretty sure you have to just buy the kit and throw away (or sell them as spares?) the wooden panels in favor of your own laser cut from whatever material you like (what were you thinking of building it from?).
I would really like to make it out of a smoked acrylic material or something of that sort. Not 100% sure yet. Thanks for that link to the parts list. It appears that that is a list of all parts needed to build it? wood/ metal/ ect. everything?
Correct. I am doing a self sourced Ultimaker. . Www.callum-burns.co.uk for my blog and how I am getting on. I need to add a new blog poat as I have gotten some more parts. . So far it's been fairly easy to get parts but some parts I have had to get from china. :(.
You could also source all the parts yourself, this will save you money, but will cost a lot more time and effort. Two of our interns did this before they joined Ultimaker. They spend about 1000 euro for 2 machines, but it took them a few months. And, in the end, they had to replace their cheap china electronics as they broke down. (But that didn't cost them anything as they where already working for us by that time, and we still had a few spare 1.5.4 electronics that we could no longer use)
I might be selling some Dibond-Upgrade kits for UM1 soon. But prices will probably be... premium... o.O (Especially if you're not located in Switzerland - international postage is ridiculous out here...)
The quality of the UM1 original kit lasercut parts is pretty good. I doubt it gets any better unless you are using a different material. The UM1 also works pretty well with the standard wooden frame. It's not like there is a great need for improvement there.
I will be doing other improvements on my kit like better integration for a direct drive gantry, adding a few centimeters in build space, and redesigning the entire z-stage. But that also means one has to buy longer shafts and a longer z-leadscrew. Probably best for self-sourced Ultimakers anyways...
I'm going to go with Dibond and Perspex (Acrylic) for my UM Black Edition frame. Pretty much the same as the UM2. Found a distribtor in Switzerland who offers both materials, so I'm going to start from there and see how it turns out
Addon information about Trespa: I finally had contact with the company cutting Trespa. But they do it by waterjet cutting, not by laser cutting. The reasons are basically the same as Jonny just mentioned for PC. On top of that the company expects Trespa to burn.
Also, I will leave away most of the small wooden parts of the original UM, as they can easily be printed instead of milled. There won't be parts for the printhead or the x-y blocks, or the spool holder, or the extruder.
Maybe I'll also use PMMA instead of Dibond for the printer's left and right panels (just like the UM2), that might lower the Dibond material costs. But I'm not yet sure about that. I'll see it when I'm finished with my prototype...
I need to create a reproduction of a 3D model with some lasercut board. We did one iteration and it mostly worked, but had two had some critical design flaws (namely a lack of tabs on the bottom to affix it into holes on the flat ground, and the 2D projection did not account for the tilt of the outside permiter (so pieces had to be manually cut off in order to form the cylinder with the top tilted inwards).
thanks, here it is. it has the model as well as a make2D that we used (missing tabs to anchor it into the ground plane, as well as the perimeter walls not being the correct length to match up with the roof). 20180722-zendo.3dm (1.1 MB)
So - the wall is in two pieces, the roof one piece, and the flat panels are, for the moment at least, a red herring; you want a total of three surfaces with tabs on the bottom of the two wall pieces, maybe like so:
I am trying to lasercut a simple file straight from AutoCAD but I'm struggling. I've researched online and tried a few things but still no success. I have got it to communicate with the machine, it's a Universal Laser System, and the occasions I have had it print it's treated the lines as raster and engraved them. Here is what I've tried so far:
1. I've changed the plot style table and set colours blue, black & white to a line width of 0.001mm and changed the line type to solid for both. This has been saved as a .ctb file.
2. From the options menu I have set the 'printer support path' > 'plot style table search path' to the correct location where the .ctb file is.
3. When sending the file to print, I change the properties of the device driver-specific user-interface to ensure that the blue and black/white lines are vector. This aleration forces a temporary .pc3 file to be created which I allow.
When I press print, a dialogue box apprears with the following message "the printed document contains no data. Are the driver's RAST/VECT pen settings correct? Also, check the driver's engraving field size, or else the rotary options."
I don't have a ready answer for you but I would like to install the laser cutting driver and see if I can get this to look right on my side. Can you tell me the specific driver/model to download and install and then attach a sample file to a post?
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