Craigslist Ripper
Su Strawderman
True crime aficionados (which is somehow, let's face it, most of us these days) know that the term "ripper" is not a particularly unique one applied to killers. Ever since "Jack" (or someone claiming to be him) gave himself the nickname in a letter to the media claiming credit for the murders of sex workers in Victorian London, the name has stuck around in our consciousness. "My knife's so nice and sharp I want to get to work right away if I get a chance," was his chilling message to the public, reports BBC America.
As Ranker points out, there have been at least a dozen noteworthy "rippers" whose names have made the papers of their day, including England's Yorkshire Ripper (maybe you've seen the recent Netflix documentary), Joel Rifkin (another New Yorker, dubbed Joel the Ripper), and the Blackout Ripper, who killed women during the lights-out days of the London Blitz.
Heads by the score take flight incite a war
Chicks hit the floor, diehard fans demand more
Behold the bold soldier, control the globe slowly
Proceeds to blow swingin swords like Shinobi
Yeah, it seems to be the summer of Rippers!
I have gotten 2 looptails, and a 1985..plus getting to meet Scot B, Todd Lyons and more..
oh and the free 24" looptail quad!! WOW!
Ohh, and what do you all think I should do about the grips?
they are falling off of there..
some ame's maybe?
my very first sighting of a pk ripper in 1980 was a candy red pk with tan stickers that looked the same as yours,from that moment i wanted one,it did not matter what color as long as it was a pk ripper i traded my almost brand new redline mx111 and 60.00 for my very first pk ripper ,i was so connected to that bike,i rode every where on that bike/race day's parties going to the shop,bmx is awesome and i have some of the best memories of growing up with bmx around
The guy wanted $1500 for it. It had new hydraulic cylinders, new hydraulic lines, a new tooth bar for the bucket, and ripper that came with it had a hydraulic assist cylinder with it and it had new ripper teeth and a spare set.
I added oil to the engine, but I noticed a leak. I had some sonic weld in my bug out tool box, so I waited until the dripping subsided, and cleaned off the spot on the oil pan with a rag wet with carb cleaner. I let that dry, applied some sonic weld to the spot, and merrily went about checking the radiator and hooking up good battery cables to the starter.
I left for a bit, came back, and I took a can of ether and sprayed a little on the air cleaner. I hooked up 1 4DLT Exide battery. Verified my diesel container was air tight and that my connections were tight as well.
I spent the next little bit working on putting the right side sprocket back on the machine, and I found where the master link had been removed, and secured it for putting the track chain back together.
The whole drive over there, my dad- he's in his mid 60's and I'm a 30 something- was chiseling on me to forget buying a John Deere and just buy this machine to fix. We have several International's- I've owned a couple of Scout II's, we have a Loadstar 1700 dump truck, and I've also got an International S1854.
My dad has always owned Long tractors, but the first two tractors his father ever had was a Farmall C and then a Farmall H. Dad repeats the story of the engine in the H bending a pushrod and a connecting rod on the Farmall H, while using a bush and bog harrow. They dissassembled the engine in frame, and took the pushrod and con rod to a local blacksmith. The blacksmith straighted them both. You must keep in mind, this was the lower Appalachian mountains in the mid 50's and not only were people extremely poor, but forget finding parts. The engine was reassembled and the tractor was used until the mid 70's when my dad bought his Long 460.
Pictures will help, but I think the only TD6s with a 6 cylinder diesel were the 62s. Those were the last of the TD6s so parts may be more readily available. You should be able to find an engine serial number stamped on a boss on the right side of the engine.
If the loader frame says 6K it is a TD6, the six cylinder engine make it a later 62 series. Like everyone says, post some photos. Engine parts should be easy, they used those engines in a lot of different pieces of equipment. Driveline parts and steering clutches should be easily available.
6 cylinder TD6 means a D282 engine. They built that engine for over 10 years and put it in lots of different tractors so lots of 'em still out there working. Parts, service manuals and expertise readily obtainable. They're good engines, easy to maintain.
The guy selling it is 39 and he had it advertised as a Detroit Loader. I had called thinking it might be JD 440 with a baby Detroit Diesel in it. He kept calling it a Detroit and I finally asked if it was a Drott loader. He said yes. I went and I could tell it was TD, but as I said- I'm not an expert.
The guy who sold it to me could not get it to turn, and instead of working with it and trying to break the clutches loose- he decided to tear it down without ever checking the adjustment on the clutches, without trying to use it or anything.
That is why I figure I will need to invest in rebuilding the steering clutches. Which is a bunch of crap, because I took off the inspection covers on the bottom and the seals and everything were good, with no leaks. I think the clutches had just rusted up from sitting and if he had run it back and forth and worked it- it would have broken loose.
I think is would be a lot of work to fit the drott loader to any other machine. It was a pretty heavy frame built to internationals machines. Not saying it can't be done but I think it would be easier and cheaper to fix the td6. Either way pics are nice so don't be afraid to post. Good luck with the project.
Sounds like you have a TD6-62 series Drott loader, similar to the larger TD9-92 series Drott loader. The TD6-62 has a D282 direct start, inline 6 diesel engine that was rated at 52 hp. It was a detuned version of the same engine put in the larger TD9 (which produced between 71-75 hp). The machine itself weighs around 15,000 lbs with the loader assy. Not sure what you plan on doing with the loader as a "donor" but it would be very difficult to remove it and adapt it to another machine. It is custom tailored and balanced to work with that tractor. It's a heavy beast, so whatever you coupled it up to would have to be a heavy duty machine to handle it.
Otherwise, based on what you've said it sounds like it may not have much use on it and that it set a long time causing the clutches to rust up and seize (these are dry type clutches and this can happen after setting long periods of time). First thing to do is to get it running and then try and unfreeze the clutches. A common strategy is to fill the clutch pack chambers with diesel fuel and let the clutches soak in diesel fuel for a few weeks. Then run the machine and - using common sense and good judgment - try and break the clutches free by pushing on something fairly substantial and turning. But be careful, you don't want to overdo it and blow your final drives. Make sure they're in good working order and have plenty of gear oil in them. But basically you tie the left and right clutch levers back (into the disengage position) and then try digging and pushing on things in a controlled manner to see if the clutches will break the rust bond between the plates. They can be stubborn and it may take a while, but it is often successfully done this way. Otherwise it has to be disassembled.
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