On 26/04/2016 14:16, William Grote wrote:
> So good to know that there are reactions other than acetobacter that can
> create ethyl acetate, but If I smell it, yet taste nothing approaching
> vinegar, can I relax or should I worry that this batch might have been
> infected and is worsen with any exposure to O2?
I always regard ethyl acetate / acetic notes in cider, at the stage
where they are detectable but not yet fully unpleasant, as something of
an early warning, something that prompts the question - "is my process
fully under control?". Because it can come from so many different
sources the answer may be different at different times and for different
people.
Ethyl acetate /acetic doesn't only occur by oxidation - in UK perries it
comes from lactic acid bacterial breakdown of native citric acid and in
Spanish ciders probably by LAB action on juice sugars during
fermentation. In UK farmhouse ciders it more likely comes from oxidative
processes eg apiculate yeasts or acetobacter.
The reason it's so widespread is that ethanol is the major alcohol
produced during fermentation and that acetic acid is also generated by
many related biochemical processes. They are not chemically exotic
beasts but simple molecules, the end products of much microbial
metabolism, and so it's not surprising that their simple ester is
widespread too.
Whether it's a problem or not depends on your culture, as well as how
bad it gets. Many of the European cider cultures (eg Spain and the UK
West Country) seem to welcome some acetic character, probably because
that's traditionally how they've always been. Up to the re-introduction
of SO2 here in the 1960's it was probably endemic in all UK farmhouse
ciders and in many it still is. I would guess the modern New World cider
cultures have zero tolerance because they are starting from a late 20th
century perspective where it is seen to have no place. I'd guess that
the ciders of Johnny Appleseed's time were pretty acetic though ;-)
For myself I can be in a position where I recognise it without finding
it offensive, but I might mark it down as a fault even so. I was at a
small West Country competition last year where I was marking some ciders
down for their acetic character but my fellow judge was marking them up
for precisely the same reason! He was a born and bred West Countryman
while I am not. In cider, your background culture can often be critical
to what you enjoy or what you don't.
The good news, if you want a one-stop solution to prevent ciders going
acetic, is that SO2 is your best friend, because it is both an
antioxidant and an antimicrobial which pretty much zaps the offending
microbes whether they are oxidative or not.