Hydrogen Peroxide and Water for Orchard Use

[CiderSupply.com]

Has anyone actually tried using the popular 'Miricle Solution' of Hydrogen Peroxide and Water on their apple trees?

It is boasted that if used consistetly in irrigation it will rejuvenate sick trees suffering from root rot in heavy wret clay soils and increase tree output.

Have heard that if used on biannual bearing trees in the off years only, biannualism can be greatly reduced.

As a spray with a surfactan, it is also said to be the superior killer of leaf molds, eggs and larvey deposited on leaves, fruit, and trunks.

Apparently the free oxygen molicule is the real magic trick that the chemical companies don't want growers to know about.

But often its just another exampke of smoke, mirrors, and snake oil.

Any comments are apreciated

Best regards
Chris Rylands

[Dick Dunn]

On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 12:22:04PM -0700, CiderSupply.com wrote:
> Has anyone actually tried using the popular 'Miricle Solution' of Hydrogen Peroxide and Water on their apple trees?

I haven't, but on the surface of it I'd say it's dubious enough not even to
be worth a try.

The key point is that H2O2 is quite unstable. The extra oxygen will be on
its way soon with exposure to light, heat, or (especially in this case)
nucleation points, which is to say rough spots--like dirt.

[snip 3 claims that Chris has heard]

I did a little bit of Googling and found that it also cures cancer and
removes warts. Gosh, what's not to like about it? :-)

> Apparently the free oxygen molicule is the real magic trick that the chemical companies don't want growers to know about.

That sort of statement is -always- a red flag--one {magic;weird;secret}
trick that {big evil companies; traditional science} don't want you to know

about.

> But often its just another exampke of smoke, mirrors, and snake oil.

Bingo. You've reduced it to its essence.
Under the circumstances, H2O2 in water becomes a rather expensive way to
water your trees. There might be uses where it would be concentrated
enough to have an effect, but not here.

--
Dick Dunn rc...@talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA

[Wes Cherry]

This is essentially the same as the organically approved fungicide and bactericide Oxidate. Which is the same as PAA which many if us use as a sanitizer in the cellar.

http://www.biosafesystems.com/product-ag-oxidate.html

I am considering it to control summer Anthracnose ascospores where Anthracnose does more of its intertree spread.

I believe it is also effective on powdery mildew and fireblight. Grape growers use it as well.

Of course it has no residual activity so you have to spray weekly or more often. Like most organically approved pesticides it is a crude blunt force tool. In this case it may kill beneficial fungal and bacterial populations.

I rather doubt it would be effective against anything it doesn't make contact with, so probably not good for controlling phytophthora (crown/collar rot) which hangs out in the soil.

-'//es Cherry
Dragon's Head Cider
Vashon Island, Wa US
www.dragonsheadcider.com

> --
> --
> Visit our website: http://www.ciderworkshop.com
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the "Cider Workshop" Google Group.
> By joining the Cider Workshop, you agree to abide by our principles. Please see http://www.ciderworkshop.com/resources_principles.html
> ---
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Cider Workshop" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to cider-worksho...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send an email to cider-w...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[CiderSupply.com]

Hi Dick and Wes, forgive my spelling, this is coming from my cell. Anyhow the interesting thing that i read sevral places was that only two or so teaspoons per gallon of water of 35% HP was sufficiant for a watering or spray solution.

I do have a few trees in a very heavy clay soil area where i think i will try.

Apparently often some of the root rots start because the roots have no oxygen and too much water. If the solution is perodically poured there, the free oxygen molicule goes to the root so-to-speak and the root will start sending out new fibers and after a time, the tree can gain the upper hand. Will see :-)

I am especially interested in this more so for preventing damping-off of grafted rootstocks on warm humid spring days.

Wes, i'm with ya on the Anthracnose thing. I burnt the two trees that had it in my orchard along with the two trees next to them. Will wait to see next year and the year after if i got it all.

I'm thinking if one can prevent reinfection, anthracnose has only a three year life span. I think some of the worst infected trees could be saved by the following:

If you have one bad tree available for testing, one could spray down the tree and soak the area around the tree with the peroxide solution to kill the spores in the ground. Repeat a few times over spring, summer, and fall.

Then before the fall rains come, do a heavy prune, and then spray the tree with ďiluted latex paint and copper. Possibly this could seal the bark from miscellanious reinfection, but more important seal-in the current run of anthracnose. Its the constant reinfection of the tree that ends up killing it. So preventing reinfection and letting the tree overcome its current infection could work.

So next protect the tree fromthe PNW rains. Take a large plastic crate bag or machinery shipping bag and cover the tree completely. Tie it off at the bottom with some vents. Keep it dry all fall, winter, and remove bag at spring leaf-out.

Spray the tree and ground again with the hydrogen peroxide solution sevral times in the spring and summer...and what ever else that is said to help.

Repeat the cycle for the following year, and possibly one more time thereafter.

While this process is not feasible for huge trees, small juvinile trees it may work great?

(For peach leaf curl, i have bagged my two dwarf peach trees this way for years. No more cureld club leaves, and have solved my peach probkem, fall copper sprays were just a waste of money) . So on the anthracnose problem...technically, if you can quarintine the tree this way, one could save a young orchard and turn the tide of inevitable doom.

On a final note, aparently bagging dormant scions and fumigating them with acedic acid (vinigar boiled) at the right concentration or PPM, allmost all white mildew infection deep inside the buds are killed. No powdery mildew the following year. So-beggs the question, I wonder if this fumigation practice would also be successful to kill off anthracnose in the bark of the apple tree while bagged and dormant. Moreover that is when the winter vetsion of anthracnose wants to keep reinfecting its host.

Best regards
Chris Rylands