Grafting Knife?

[Mike Rose]

I order this interesting knife not thinking about grafting at all.

Morakniv Craftline Carpentry Chisel with Carbon Steel Blade

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3ES1SC/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_ILtLybY90319A

However, it came today and I started to wonder how good this knife would be for grafting.

It's razor sharp, good steel, and very easy to sharpen. It also has a flat edge (flat cuts). The top of the blade (and handle) is wide enough to strike with a wood/rubber mallet.

Thoughts? I'm not a grafting expert by any means. Regardless, it's a great tool for under $20. :)

— Mike

[David Llewellyn]

When I looked up the one you mention, I saw it was a kind of a chisel, which is no good. It needs to be a thin blade.

 

This is the one I always use, very good, but also cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Florist-Grafting-Knife/dp/B0007LL4SY/ref=pd_bxgy_79_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0007LL4SY&pd_rd_r=C9J7BBKDPZR87J2ZGZ6J&pd_rd_w=jdBFa&pd_rd_wg=RYEQV&psc=1&refRID=C9J7BBKDPZR87J2ZGZ6J

 

 

David Llewellyn

Tel: + 353 87 2843879

www.llewellynsorchard.ie

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[Vincent]

i use the lefthanded version of the same model.

[David]

I have used a Victorinox for over 30 years until I was bought a Tina a couple of years ago.

The Tina is something else and although there is nothing wrong with the Victorinox I wouldn't go back.

I don't think I am ever likely to use a chisel but have to admit I did think cleft grafting might be it's place. 

[Claude Jolicoeur]

For my part, I have been using this type of knife for years for all my grafting:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-099-Classic-Retractable-Utility/dp/B00002X204/
No need for sharpening, inexpensive blades, razor-sharp, always available...

[Michael Davidson]

Why Claude, you're using my knife! But I have one now that is factory painted orange so I don't misplace it quite so easily..... 😆

[Dick Dunn]

Comments on several posts combined below...

David Llewellyn mentioned one style:

> This is the one I always use, very good, but also cheap.
> https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Florist-Grafting-Knife/dp/B0007LL4SY/ref=p
> d_bxgy_79_2?_encoding=UTF8

Victorinox makes a related knife which also has a budding blade. That's a
spey point blade--the abrupt curve lets you cut into the bark and slide it
along just as far as you need, without cutting too deeply. That blade also
has a little sharpened hump on the back of the blade which works for prying
open the bark (like for a T-bud) w/o cutting in too much.

But then Vincent mentioned:

> i use the lefthanded version of the same model.

Please tell us (sinister types), where did you find the LH version?!? I
didn't even know it existed! Which side of the puddle are you on?

And Claude mentioned:

> For my part, I have been using this type of knife for years for all my
> grafting:
> https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-099-Classic-Retractable-Utility/dp/B00002X204/

Claude - The Stanley -99- series is a great utility knife, and as you said
available everywhere. But it has a short blade; I assume this means you
are able to draw the knife through the cut?
A lot of folks can do that and become fairly adept at getting a flat cut
of the right length. However, others of us must either press or strike the
blade, which means having a blade with a straight section at least as long
as the cut to be made. Hence, the Victorinox with the long straight blade
is our choice.

There might also be an advantage to the Victorinox single bevel in more
convincingly driving the waste part of the wood away. Plus I find that
with whip-and-tongue, I can re-orient a single-bevel blade so that on the
tongue it either tries to dig in or stays closer to the surface. The
former is for hard wood to give the blade better bite and avoid it slipping
back to the surface. The latter is to keep it from cutting through a soft
scion.

David (peasgoodnonsuch) advocated the Tina. David, could you explain why
you like it so much better than the Victorinox? From what I see here, it's
maybe twice the price of the Victorinox, yet not prohibitive if it makes
the job easier.
--
Dick Dunn rc...@talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA

[Wes Cherry]

Tina blades are made of carbon steel. The victorinox is stainless steel. I find it much easier to keep a sharp edge on a carbon steel blade than a stainless blade.

A few swipes with a mini knife steel that I keep on my keyring and it's back to razor sharp
Victorinox Sharpening Steel Multi-Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083WNK1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YevMybXHV8591

This tool is also handy to touch up the edge on pruning shears.

-'//es Cherry
Dragon's Head Cider
Vashon Island, Wa US
www.dragonsheadcider.com

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[David]

 As Wes said, the steel in the Tina is better. You can sharpen it to a better edge and it will stay sharp longer. You do get what you pay for .

[David Llewellyn]

For someone like me, notorious for ‘misplacing’ tools, the cheap, easily replaced, Victorinox RED-handled one is a wiser option than the very expensive perfectly camouflaged BROWN-handled Tina knife!!! If I were doing thousands of grafts on a regular basis, I spose I’d invest in a Tina.

 

David Llewellyn

Tel: + 353 87 2843879

www.llewellynsorchard.ie

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From: cider-w...@googlegroups.com [mailto:cider-w...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of David

Sent: 06 February 2017 23:25
To: Cider Workshop

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[Vincent]

As the Victoynox knife is sharpened on one side only,as a lefthanded person you can't work with a right handed grafting knife.

I got my left handed grafting knife almost 30 years ago during a horticultural course. It's from Victorinox, so if it's still available you probably should check their website. When in Normandy last year I bought a new grafting knife (bahco p11)and apruning knife (Bahco p20) at a gardening store. They were quite cheap.

Cheers Vincent.

[Derick Greenly]

https://www.amazon.ca/Draper-76777-115Mm-Grafting-Budding/dp/B00205N2GC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486506091&sr=8-1&keywords=draper+grafting

This little unit has delighted me thus far, considering its quality, price, durability and fast shipment. It has carried out a good thousand bench grafts, a handful of cleft grafts and countless summer buds. Never had a victorinox.

[David]

Out of curiosity, what success rate is expected  when grafting?

[Vince Wakefield]

Last year I grafted around 140 apple and pear, I lost 2 of apples, both from the same piece of graft wood and the rootstocks have since died, conversely I bud grafted 10 pears in the summer and not one took.

 

I used 2 different types of graft, whip and tongue and cleft both seemed as good as each other. I used parafilm tape and kept them in a poly tunnel with heat when 0 deg or below overnight and kept a humid atmosphere.

 

Cheers

Vince

 

From: cider-w...@googlegroups.com [mailto:cider-w...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: 08 February 2017 08:20
To: Cider Workshop
Subject: [Cider Workshop] Re: Grafting Knife?

 

Out of curiosity, what success rate is expected  when grafting?

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[David]

A good take there Vince.

I think I did around 500 and about 15 failed to make the grade or failed altogether. One got canker so I burnt it but the rest will go again.

Got 2,000 rootstocks arriving on Friday, that should keep me quiet for a while.