Despite two years of failures I am again convinced to clear the cider by keeving it. Knowing that doing it the same way as in the past will not work, I decided to sum it up and ask masters for recommendations.
The only positive thing is that I always achieved the same result, which is a full cask of yellow jelly that is partially breaking down in March, while the temperature goes higher and fermentation is getting more vigorous. There are about two inches thick layer of a clear must in the middle (in about 50cm high cask). Once the fermentation reaches its peak about 50% of the jelly turns into liquid again, the rest remains jelly-ish and must be thrown away.
SG is above 1.055, Keeving temperature is between 8-10°C, pH is 3,3
I am following the process as described in the Klercidre kit manual
Do not add Yeast
Using 35l demijohns filled to 2/3 so there is enough space for the hat.
Do sulphite, 30ppm (half of the proposed amount)
My assumptions are
There is already enough pectin in the must, thus adding PME will be too much – Add or not add?
Fermentation starts slowly - do not suplhite, add yeast?
Too low temperature
Any ideas?
Thank you
Jan
Despite two years of failures I am again convinced to clear the cider by keeving it. Knowing that doing it the same way as in the past will not work, I decided to sum it up and ask masters for recommendations.
SG is above 1.055, Keeving temperature is between 8-10°C, pH is 3,3
I am following the process as described in the Klercidre kit manual
Do not add Yeast
Using 35l demijohns filled to 2/3 so there is enough space for the hat.
Do sulphite, 30ppm (half of the proposed amount)
My assumptions are
There is already enough pectin in the must, thus adding PME will be too much – Add or not add?
Fermentation starts slowly - do not suplhite, add yeast?
Too low temperature
I believe I need to do a drastic change, otherwise will end up in the same situation. Unfortunately the amount of must I have will allow only a single try.
- I know demijohns are not the best, unfortunately there is nothing else I can use.
1) Why do you think pH 3.3 is too low? To reduce the acidity, can I add some water and check the suger to have SG above 1.055? What is the pH target.
2) I did press the must yesterday in the mornig (24hrs ago). I am not going to use SO2 this time, should I wait to see some yeast activity, or add the PME and CaCl2 now?
3) I still think I do have about 24hrs before it is too late (8°C), can I try a test on 1l? How much of CaCl2 you would recommend to use 0.5ml / liter?
> 3) I still think I do have about 24hrs before it is too late (8�C), can
the perceived acidity in the final cider will be quite high for a keeved
style.
I am afraid I lost another year. Although this time the gel is not so hard as a gelatin, it is thick enough to capture CO2 bubbles. The change to the process wa ¾ of CaCl2 compared to what they suggest in the Klercidre kit and no sulfite.
Assuming the problem is in the amount of calcium used, my question would be how to find the right amount. I guess there is no option, to add the calcium multiple times, so I will need to have many small batches to see some difference. Or do you suggest any other procedure?
After checking these pictures posted by Chris http://cidersupply.com/Page%20-%20Good-Bad-Ugly.html, I can tell that my problem was identical to the second picture from the right in the first row. “Too much natural pectin…”
Our conclusion in this thread was too much of CaCl2, so what is correct?
If you had an open straight-sided vessel you could easily take the mould
spots off. That is one advantage of it. Mould spots usually attach to
small pieces of floating apple pulp.
The gel is now sinking, right? Is there any sign of fermentation at all?
(I think 12C is rather warm but if you are worried about trying to
encourage fermentation I see why you would maybe do that).
We need to home in on the (lack of) fermentation. But you are only one
week in, so there is time to go. Have you ever had fermentation in the
past?
Where do your apples come from? Do you grow them yourself? How are they
grown - young dwarf trees or big old trees? Is there any possibility
that they have been treated in some way that inhibits fermentation? How
are you sterilising your containers? Do you press the juice yourself? How?
I am buying them, and already scheduled a meeting with the farmer, so will be able to find more. I am using a mixture of desert apples Jonagold and Idared. Unfortunately as the Apple Wine making tradition get lost in here before the second war, there are not any cider making apples available.
I am not using any special cleaning chemicals just hot and cold water. Yes I am using apple press like this one
I kept the juice for about 5 days at 8C now warming it up to 12C for two days.
What is confusing to me is that the gel formation is a chemical reaction. So how it should look like 24 hours after the calcium is added? Mine was gel in entire demijohn. I am attaching two pictures. Trial batch which is now one week old and kept for 4 days at 20C and a picture of demijohn, showing thin layer of clean juice.
Jan
> Jonagold and Idared.
I don't have any experience of keeving such apples. I don't know if
anyone does? The technique was developed for cider apples.
If you have less juice than that you need to scale down pro-rata. Unless
you have a milligram balance at home (!) you will have to do that by
slurrying in water and serial dilution.
It has been my experience that heavy, blocky gel is not a serious problem and it need not prevent success in keeving. In fact some of my most successful batches started that way. The short term solution to the solid, blocky gel is a simple one. If not for mold growing on the surface and inability to skim it off due to shape of the keeving vessel I would advise simply waiting. Given the presence of visible trapped bubbles and mid-layer of clear cider you descirbe the gel will most likely lift eventually. Since this case involves visible surface mold that cannot be removed manually I would suggest siphoning to another demijohn (or temporarily to a clean bucket) through tubing that will force the pectin to break up into smaller chunks. I have used polyethylene tubing of 1/4 inch inside diameter (roughly 6-1/2 mm) for this in the past. I doubt that hose diameter is critical as long as you can get the gel through it and it is not so small and turbulent that it liquefies the gel. A greater height differential between vessels may be required to provide enough force to shear the gel. Sometimes a very slight positive pressure is required when a particularly firm gel blocks the tubing but that is tricky and generally unsafe when working with glass vessels that are not designed to be pressurized. An alternative is to pour gel from one demijohn to another through a funnel (this also breaks up the gel). It's best to do this while colder so the gel tends to shear into discrete pieces rather than liquefy. Once broken into smaller chunks it will be easier for trapped juice to be squeezed out of the gel and for the cap to be compressed through normal action of the yeast.
Alternatively you could add a small amount of additional yeast to the bottom of the gel via a tube to generate a bit more CO2 to provide lift. I don't suscribe to the belief that you must rely on endogenous yeast in keeving and generally use about 1/8 the amount cultured yeast recommended by yeast suppliers. Compression of juice out of the gel is slower when force is applied from the bottom of a big solid block of gel. However you should start seeing enough lifting of the gel to begin to form a crust on the surface even before compression of the gel is complete. The surface will become dry and (at least in my experience) a less hospitable environment for surface mold. You will be able to recognized this by a darker, leathery appearance. However if you do add yeast via a tube after the gel has formed be sure to let your added yeast adjust to temperature of the cider before adding so you don't thermally shock it into complete inactivity. In normal practice I like to add yeast just as precipitation becomes visible (or viscosity becomes affected) so that more yeast will be embedded in the gel. The suspended yeast is removed with the gel so fermentation remains slow. If pectin load is heavy enough to form blocky gel it may be difficult to see. In that case you can detect the right time to add yeast by measuring gravity with a hydrometer (if you use an open-top vessel). When readings start to become erratic it's a sign that gel is forming and that it is time to add yeast.
Looking to a longer term solution, an excess of PME (with resulting heavy pectin load) is not a problem if you add CaCl2 with a lighter hand as Andrew suggests. If suspended pectin is there but precipitation is insufficient you can always add a bit more CaCl2 later. If pectin is not as heavy as you think, however, an excess of CaCl2 can make the cider taste salty.
Gary in Indiana
I guess we can agree on the conclusion that the yeast activity is week. The first attempt to address this issue was to avoid sulfite, hopping the wild yeast will get more vigorous and will break up and lift the gel. This did not happen so addition of active yeast is required.
After observing the gel formation in the trial jar (one week at 20C), the yeast activity is still not strong enough to break the gel nor to allow the CO2 to escape it. From the past year of experience, it took about 4 months to reduce about 50% of the gel, and the juice still did ferment to SG 1000, well at least it was clear.
Test one
Out of curiosity I did try a rather aggressive method on the trial jar and did break up the gel with a hand mixer. And voilà, after 24hours it did rise up. See the attached picture. Will watch it to see what is going on.
Test two
Another idea how to make the gel less heavy was to mix the gel with untreated juice (I was keeping one bottle aside just for drinking). After mixing it half and half It did not liquefy the gel, however did clear it. That is interesting.
Garry suggest breaking the gel by racking it, and I will try this on the demijohns. I however think that my gel must be even thicker than his, as there is no way to liquefy it again, even with hand mixer.
There are two ideas why such heavy gel forms, too much pectin or too much of CaCl2. One option is to macerate the pulp, for shorter period of time. In the past even 12, 24, 30 hours of maceration yielded the same result, so maybe no maceration is the option. This however has effect on the juice color and I like it darker, thus inclining to the idea of reducing the CaCl2. Andrew, suggest the soil (where the apples grow) might have excess of calcium, I did reduce it to ¾ (according to KlerCidre kit amount), so will reduce it even more.
I do have liquid CaCl2 solution diluted at ratio of 520g CaCl2 per one liter. According to the KlerCidre manual, they do recommend to use 427ml of CaCl2 solution for 500l and up to 700l, which is roughly 0,6 – 0,85ml per liter
- Last year I did use 20ml of the above solution for 25liters of juice SG 1053 (cca 400ppm weight)
- This year I did use 10ml for 20liters SG 1055 (cca 250ppm)