On Sat, May 25, 2013 at 09:48:04PM -0700,
thomas...@frontiernet.net wrote:
> Off the top of my head, there are three things I can think of that give a musty or "wet wood" taste.
>
> First, there's a small chance that it's acetaldehyde due to weak initial fermentation...
No.
Acetaldehyde is perceived as having various characters, but woody or
wet-wood is far from any of them.
>... In cider, acetaldehyde can sometimes come across as a "rough" or "green leaf" or even "latex/emulsion paint" aroma and flavor. It can also come across like green apples or unripe apple skins.
"Green apple" is the most common description of excess acetaldehyde in
cider...but we're straying.
> Second, it could just be the apple blend. A few varieties that I know of can give woody or even musky aromas and flavors...
What varieties are these? I've not encountered that. I know of one
variety that gives a rather "dark" note, but I wouldn't call it woody.
If you'll tell us what varieties you have in mind, Thomas, we could cross-
check against what was used in the problem cider.
>...I associate musky perfumy aromas with American style ciders made from dessert apple varieties...
Curious, because usually the descriptions of cider from table/dessert fruit
are that they're very simple, fruity but sharp.
> Third, it's possible that you have some sort of actual mold flavor. The compounds responsible for "cork" or "moldy" notes in wine and cider are detectable at parts per billion and can easily migrate through soft plastic...
Andrew already covered that possibility pretty well.
> As others have commented, it could also be yeast autolysis, although I think of that as being a more "brothy" or "vitamin B" (e.g., biotin, niacin) flavor and aroma. It's easy to fix that problem� - just make sure that you rack your cider off of the yeast cake periodically (every 6-8 weeks).
Yeast autolysis problems aren't common in cider. They're far less common
than in beer, or even in mead. I don't know why, but I've observed it
myself and I've heard it from a lot of other folks--so you don't go about
racking frequently. You might start the cider in the autumn and not do
the first racking until it starts to fall clear in late winter or early
spring. (The exception is when you're trying to reduce yeast population
and biomass to slow the fermentation--Claude has given good instruction on
this process.)
Racking every 6-8 weeks has problems of its own if you're doing a normal
slow fermentation. First is that with every racking you introduce the
possibility of contamination. Second is that since you'll introduce air
with a racking, you'll need to sulfite again to bring the free SO2 back
up to deal with it. Too many rackings and you push the safe (let alone
reasonable) limit on total SO2.
--
Dick Dunn
rc...@talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA