Bolt App
Maarit Hibbits
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I used a hand drill and a file to cut the slot, then hobbed it with an M3 tap mounted in the drill, using bearings mounted in a vise to let the bolt spin - see the next videos. If you're not sure where to cut the pinchwheel slot, test assemble the extruder, making sure you leave room for the motor mount bolt heads under the 39 tooth gear, and mark the M8 bolt where it crosses the filament feed channel.
Cloudmaker, after trying this out, noted: "I just tried this, took 5 minutes and grips incredibly, works best on the threaded part of the bolt, produces nice spikes which enter the filament :-)" and added, some longer tests later: "It works great in the original Wade's extruder, but I didn't manage to get it to work reliably in Greg Frost's variation of the Wade. A (yet to be designed and printed) rig to rotate the bolt in evenly spaced steps (12 maybe?) and to assure linear movement of the Dremel, thus giving very even spikes and even thrust to the filament, would be best for consistent even nozzle output."
There is some uncertainty about the optimal number of cuts on the bolt's circumference. Lanthan has got an early failure (less than 10 hours printing) with 16 cuts. Better results might be expected with 12 - 15 cuts (to be experimentally determined - also, the quality of the bolt does probably matter)
I do understand that the constraints don't carry over. I was thinking that without the contacts, the thing holding it together will be the bolts and nuts which do have contacts. Does it work this way?
My main concern with this study is to confirm the load that can be taken before the bolt give way. I did some calculations for summation of moments and forces and it seems to be able to handle quite some load (>4000kg).
I cant give definite answers, but since your bolted connections do not appear to be in shear, I would think that setting the upper frame bonded to the bolt stack, and the lower frame bonded to the bolt stack (for the 2 bolts in tension) should work well enough to give you initial results, maybe create a separation contact between the upper and lower frame, but that would only be needed if you expect a prying effect between the two frames. But I would expect your reinforced flanges to begin bending out way before the bolt breaks (assuming you are using any kind of high strength bolt).
For me personally, I don't think I would use FEA in this instance to do the bolt sizing and design, It is pretty straight forward to do by hand. But I would use it to make sure all the other structure is sufficient and that the beams are stiffened sufficiently around the bolted connections.
Various fasteners used in ready-to-assemble furniture, also known as knock-down furniture. Connector bolts and Connector caps are available in a few colors such as bronze, brass, nickle and black to help match existing hardware.
Just placed two universal support bolts on my cruiser and now have a water bottle cage for the essential bottle. It was super easy to put on, is very strong, and well built. I put electrical tape on my bike per their recommendations and no problems have occurred. Would buy again.
First bought these bolts for my bike, but have found other great uses for them since. Endless possibilities... Right now, I am using them to attach grow lights to a curtain rod. This is so useful, one would think you could find them in every hardware store.
Are you SHOWING dimensions or trying to create the diameter dimension in the drawing? You can SHOW MODEL ANNOTATIONS by selecting the view to get your model dimensions to show. Oddly, you can't select the bolt circle diameter (radial axis) to create a dimension, it's one of those odd things in creo.
. Well, I ensured the setting was on yes, then I deleted and re-performed the pattern, and not only does Show Model Annotations not show the bolt hole pattern, but the circular symbol around the diameter is gone as well.
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