Axis Y Clay Mask
Kody Chavva
They sent me the Mugwort Pore Clarifying Wash Off Pack along with their Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum and Cera-Heart My Type Duo Cream, after I explained my skin type and concerns which are: combination acne prone skin that is easily clogged but also dehydrated, and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation marks from past pimples.
AXIS-Y is a climate inspired skincare company with products that take into account how our skin is directly affected by our environment, the climate, temperature, humidity and other external stressors, and how we should care for it accordingly.
AXIS-Y have created their 6+1+1 Advanced Formula skincare line (611), for people with oily, acne-prone skin living in humid climates. Each product in the line is carefully formulated with 6 natural ingredients + 1 core functional ingredient + 1 special patented skincare technology, which work together to address a particular skin concern.
With a base of 61% Mugwort extract, this wash off pack clears the pores of impurities, soothes inflamed and irritated skin, and gently exfoliates dead skin to reveal a bright and healthy complexion. *(as described on the AXIS-Y website)
How to use:
Use the provided spatula to scoop an adequate amount on to a clean, dry face. Apply an even layer to face, avoiding the immediate eye area and mouth. Allow to dry and harden for approximately 15 minutes and rinse off with lukewarm water. Use 2-3 times a week to treat stressed and irritated skin. When rinsing off the mask, use circular motions with fingertips to allow gentle exfoliation with the Adzuki Bean granules.
Full Ingredients List
Artemisia Princeps Extract, Kaolin, Dipropylene Glycol, Bentonite, Betaine, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Powder, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Pteris Multifida Extract, Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Chromium Oxide Greens, Charcoal Powder, Water, Beta-Glucan, Polyquaternium-51, Fructooligosaccharides, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil
The instructions say to leave the clay mask on for 15 mins until it dries but I always make sure not to let it completely set so that the clay can absorb excess sebum gently without causing dehydration and tightness. You can feel the mask getting dry after about 10 mins but majority stays slightly moist if you apply a thick even layer. I found that if I apply a very thin layer it hardens a lot quicker and gets a little itchy, tight and uncomfortable, so I prefer applying a thicker layer and not allowing it to fully dry.
Disclosure: This product was sent to me by Axis-Y in exchange for an honest review. All opinions are honest and my own. This post contains affiliate links; when you click these links and purchase a product, I will receive a small commission which will help support my blog at no extra cost to you. If you do decide to use my affiliate links, then thank you so much, I really appreciate your support.
Kaolin is a type of clay or to be precise, a naturally occurring hydrous aluminum silicate. When you hear clay, you probably think of a muddy greenish-black mess, but that one is bentonite, and this one is a fine, white powder. It is so white that it's also often used, in small amounts, as a helper ingredient to give opacity and whiteness to the cosmetic formulas.
As a clay, it's absorbent and can suck up excess sebum and gunk from your skin, but less so than the more aggressive bentonite. As it's less absorbent, it's also less drying and gentler on the skin, so it's ideal for dry and sensitive skin types.
When it comes to oil-absorbing clay masks, bentonite will probably be one of the first ingredients on the INCI list. Technically bentonite clay is mostly montmorillonite + something else, and thanks to the something else bit, bentonite comes in different types and colors.
The color depends on the mineral content of the clay: white bentonite is rich in boron and fluoride, yellow is rich in manganese and zinc, green is rich in copper, zinc, and manganese and the pink clay is rich in boron.
No matter the color, bentonite is excellent at absorbing things: it can suck up the sebum and gunk from the skin and make it instantly smooth and matte. Not only that, but bentonite has a negative ionic charge and thus can attract things with a positive charge. Things with a positive charge include bad bacteria and toxins and bentonite clay masks can help to clear those out of the skin and pores (btw, bentonite is edible and has the same detoxifying effect internally).
Thanks to bentonite's effect against bad bacteria and pathogens, there is also some research showing that bentonite can help to calm skin infections, soothe skin allergies and might work for skin conditions like psoriasis and eczema.
On the other hand, the downside of bentonite being such a good absorbent is that it can suck up more than the excess sebum and used too often, it can easily dry out the skin. So use it for good measure, and never forget to moisturize afterwards.
A sugar beet-derived amino acid derivative with nice skin protection and moisturization properties. Betaine's special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance. It is also a natural osmoprotectant, meaning that it attracts water away from the protein surface and thus protects them from denaturation and increases their thermodynamic stability.
The soothing, antioxidant and skin-protecting abilities of oat are so well-established that it is an active natural ingredient covered by the FDA OTC Skin Protectant monograph in the US, meaning that colloidal oatmeal can be claimed as an active ingredient on the INCI list and Aveeno is a mass-market brand built around oat-containing products.
Last but not least, we also found an in-vitro (made in test tubes) study showing that houttuynia cordata extract had strong anti-allergic effects and could be helpful in treating skin allergies such as eczema (atopic dermatitis).
As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution".
In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight).
If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid (including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature).
A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumes in watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. And that is still not all: it can also boost the antimicrobial activity of preservatives.
It's a type of glycol that - according to the manufacturer - is an extremely good replacement for other glycols like propylene or butylene glycol. Its main job is to be a solvent, but it has also very good antimicrobial properties and acts as a true preservative booster. Also helps with skin hydration without stickiness or tacky feel.
It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-called rheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range.
The manufacturer of the ingredient did a published study with 27 people and examined the effect of 0.1% beta-glucan. They found that despite the large molecular size the smaller factions of beta-glucan penetrate into the skin, even into the dermis (the middle layer of the skin where wrinkles form). After 8 weeks there was a significant reduction of wrinkle depth and height and skin roughness has also improved greatly.
A biocompatible copolymer (a big molecule that consists of more than one type of building blocks) that has the same structure as important cell membrane ingredient, phospholipid. It's a good skin moisturizer, leaves a silky, smooth feel on the skin and can help to reduce irritation caused by some not-so-nice ingredients (like surfactants).
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