Re: Christen-Eagle Tailwheel Tightness & Setup?

[bruce...@juno.com]

Mine are definitely tight, with both springs already being compressed.
Another thing to check is tightness between the arm that the springs
attach to and the rudder. There is usually one bolt holding it and the
bolt can work itself loose or oval out the holes and allow the arm to
rotate slightly. Fixing that on mine is my next project...............

Bruce Green
Eagle N110GM

-- Bob <n61...@gmail.com> wrote:

Seems like a stupid thread - might seem obvious but to those less
experienced (like me) I'd really like to hear what you all think.

How should the tailwheel steering be setup? Should there be NO slack
in the chains, some slack (allowing a bit of rudder before wheel), or
tight (pulling springs decidedly into compression)? What do some of
you do?

Can slack cause a shimmy (probably an obvious answer)?

I have the Lang tailwheel on my eagle which I like (really nice Timken
bearings on it). I have about 1 chain link's worth of slop in the
chain before all slack is eliminated and it is taught (but with no
spring compression).

I can't really take a link off one side since I don't want any
asymmetry. However, if I take a link off of each side it will
definitely pull the springs into compression by about 1/2 inch (or 15mm)
or more. I am not sure if this degree of "tightness" is OK or not.

Having the springs pulled into compression (beyond just taught) may
have the advantage of allowing the springs to work in both directions
(in and out). Not sure if I am describing this right, but I hope you
will understand what I am saying. If it's just taught, there is no
spring tension to "unload".

I seem to be dancing a bit more on the rudder than I think is
necessary and I want to take the slack out. But is there an issue with
pulling the springs into compression by 1/2" ??

What have been the experiences you all have had with different setups
(not including the TW itself)? What changes made what outcomes?

What are some of the recommendations that you all have had and why?

I see lots of TW aircraft with quite a bit of slack in the chains,
while others are taught or tight. Getting the TW setup right can
significantly make things easier I would think...

Has anyone a better recommendation for chain and link components other
than the stock ones? Sources?

Obviously I can just go out there and try it, but that is what this
forum is about, to exchange ideas.

-bob, Eagle 612DW

_____________________________________________________________
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[Dave von]

How about the Terry Jantzi steering link. has anyone tried one on an
Eagle?

I really like the way it worked on my RV-6. Lighter and less drag
than the springs.

Dave von

> Tired of paying rent? Click here to find a mortage. Bad credit okay.http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/CAaCX0934nqogf...

[Larry Denning N11LD]

I sent a rather lengthy reply to the Eagle shimmy problem a while ago,
but did not keep a copy for myself or others. Could you please send me
a copy of my response to La...@DenningSystems.com.

Thank you,

Larry Denning

[Eagle N23TS]

there is no correct setup other than personal preference... Follow the
book or go your own way. If your tail wheel shimmys you have other
issues beside the chains. the chains dont dampen shimmy. maybe
switch to the Spruce dual fork tail wheel and loose 3 lbs out of the
tail. Gives a real bumpy taxi on pavement and digs ruts on grass.
helps CG for fat boys though.

On Jun 16, 7:04 am, "brucegr...@juno.com" <brucegr...@juno.com> wrote:

> Tired of paying rent? Click here to find a mortage. Bad credit okay.http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/CAaCX0934nqogf...