Broadlink Rm Mini 4

[Vespasiano Jilg]

Yesit seems a new version of the RM4 Mini came out and has a different ID. It was fixed but not released yet as a general update. In the forums there is a guy that release steps needed to get it working.

The IR functions continue to work while the sensors are in this state. Reloading the Broadlink integration while in this state will cause both sensors to properly become unavailable, which I would kind of prefer to the zeroing. The RM4 Mini remains connected to the network via static IP as well. It is just the sensors that are affected.

The only other thing I could think of is that I do have the length of the cable, lower than the sensor portion, running in a bundle with some ethernet cables on its way to the wall outlet, but even with shielding at its worst, interference would cause a temporary disconnect at best, not a permanent one, right?

I have five RM4 minis (Firmware: 52078) with those Broadlink HTS2 cables connected to them for power and temperature/humidity readings using them like you for controlling split ACs with Simple-Thermostat for the frontend cards. The PSs I am using are 5V 2.4A units, branded and quality devices (not no-name cheap china crapware). All that gear is stuffed behind the covers of the indoor units.

If you have connected the HTS2-cable to a RM4 mini (notice, not the C-model) with Firmware 5278 and have tested it with different PSs but the described disconnections are still happening than I can only think of a defective sensor (hardware) as the culprit.

I decided to use a different power supply and found one lying around that was rated for 5v 2.1A. 5 minutes after switching to this power supply, I was getting temp & humidity data again. So the takeaway is, check the power supply to make sure it matches the recommended spec for the unit.

Just picked up a Broadlink RM3 Mini IR Blaster for one of my ac units and figured I'd share my method for getting it to play nice with Hubitat and vThermostat. I am aware that there is a Broadlink app by @cybrmage, but 1) it's withdrawn and 2) I couldn't get it to recognize my Broadlink.

I used Alexa as a bridge to get from Hubitat to Broadlink. There are skills for both of them. Alexa can fully control any devices set up in the Broadlink app. Then I added a virtual contact and switch in Hubitat. Alexa wouldn't support a virtual switch as a trigger. The virtual contact has 2 rules set up. When the switch turns on, the contact closes, and when the switch turns off, it opens. This allows vThermostat to use the switch as the cooling device. From there the contact goes in as a trigger for routines in Alexa. One routine for Broadlink AC power on (contact closed) and one for power off (contact open). Now my digital AC works just as well as my "dumb" units that are on zooz plugs.

I replaced the old Broadlink integration with @tomw's new one, and I will say that it has been working GREAT for me. The transition was easy also. I just added his new stuff in, imported the saved codes (copy/pasted from the previous devices), and then sent them to the new virtual devices. All three of my RM3 Mini's are working perfectly with it.

Very happy to remove the old one. It mostly worked but I did have issues that prevented me from adding my 3rd Mini OR an RM4 Mini (it did not support those) to the point that I had donated the RM4 Mini (which I now regret since I could use it).

I tested @tomw 's driver and app, and it's been perfect since I went live with it one week ago. It's easy to use and code learning works. It's also 100% local, an important criteria for heating and cooling control.

Can someone help me figure out how to get @tomw 's integration working? I installed with HPM and installed the Broadlink System Manager app but now I don't see how to add my RM 4 pro. I am just missing something for sure. I even read the read me on github but I am not seeing anything for setting up the broadlink device.

This works very good, except one thing:

The Broadlink disconnects from my WLAN every 5 minutes or so. It is offline for less than a minute and then reconnects to the WLAN. It does that all the time.

The people there found out that the disconnects were gone, when the broadlink device is allowed to access the internet.

I also had configured my router so that the broadlink was not allowed to access internet. I changed this, but disconnects were still there.

The Broadlink integrationIntegrations connect and integrate Home Assistant with your devices, services, and more.[Learn more] allows you to control and monitor Broadlink universal remotes, smart plugs, power strips, switches and sensors.

The entitiesAn entity represents a sensor, actor, or function in Home Assistant. Entities are used to monitor physical properties or to control other entities. An entity is usually part of a device or a service.[Learn more] are divided into four subdomains:

The remote entitiesAn entity represents a sensor, actor, or function in Home Assistant. Entities are used to monitor physical properties or to control other entities. An entity is usually part of a device or a service.[Learn more] allow you to learn and send codes with universal remotes. They are created automatically when you configure devices with IR/RF capabilities.

After calling this service, you will be prompted to press the buttons in the same order as provided. Check the notifications to stay on track and make sure you are pressing the right button at the right time.

The toggle bit is common when a button is used for multiple purposes, such as the power button, which can turn the television on and off, and the volume button, which can be used with a short press or a long press.

When the LED blinks for the first time, press the button you want to learn. Then wait for the LED to blink again and press the same button. By doing so, two different codes will be learned for the same command, and they will be sent alternately at each call.

The learned codes are stored in /config/.storage/ in a JSON file called broadlink_remote_MACADDRESS_codes. You can open this file with a text editor and copy the codes to set up custom IR/RF switches or to send them as base64 codes, but beware: the files in the .storage folder should never be edited manually.

The sensor entitiesAn entity represents a sensor, actor, or function in Home Assistant. Entities are used to monitor physical properties or to control other entities. An entity is usually part of a device or a service.[Learn more] allow you to monitor Broadlink sensors. These entities are created automatically when you configure a device that has sensors.

The light entitiesAn entity represents a sensor, actor, or function in Home Assistant. Entities are used to monitor physical properties or to control other entities. An entity is usually part of a device or a service.[Learn more] allow you to control Broadlink lights. You can turn them on and off, change brightness, adjust the color or set a color temperature. These entities are created automatically when you configure a device that has lights.

The switch entitiesAn entity represents a sensor, actor, or function in Home Assistant. Entities are used to monitor physical properties or to control other entities. An entity is usually part of a device or a service.[Learn more] allow you to control and monitor Broadlink smart plugs, power strips and switches. You can turn them on and off, and you can monitor their state and power consumption, when available. These entities are created automatically when you configure a device that has switches.

The first step is to configure the device normally via the configuration flow. Then add these lines to your configuration.yamlThe configuration.yaml file is the main configuration file for Home Assistant. It lists the integrations to be loaded and their specific configurations. In some cases, the configuration needs to be edited manually directly in the configuration.yaml file. Most integrations can be configured in the UI.[Learn more] file:

Use the e-Control app to learn the codes from all of your suitable remotes. Depending on the remote, try to add useful names for the buttons and/or the remotes. This will mean that you should only have to run this process once and will help with getting them quickly into Home Assistant. Dump the files in the app by navigating to the hamburger icon, select share and select, then choose Share to other phones on WLAN.

Open iBackup viewer then select the iOS backup that you created. Navigate to the App icon and then scroll until you find e-control.app, select this. Select and extract the files jsonButton, jsonIrCode and jsonSublr; they will be located in the Documents/SharedData section. Put these in the same location as the getBroadlinkSharedData.py.

Now open a Command Prompt and navigate to the directory where the aforementioned files are located e.g., C:\Python27. Now run the command python getBroadlinkSharedData.py, you should see something like this:

Now there should be a file with the name of the remote you chose in the same directory ending in .txt. Open that up and it will contain the Base64 code required for Home Assistant. To ensure these codes work correctly you may need to add == to the end of the code in your configuration.yamlThe configuration.yaml file is the main configuration file for Home Assistant. It lists the integrations to be loaded and their specific configurations. In some cases, the configuration needs to be edited manually directly in the configuration.yaml file. Most integrations can be configured in the UI.[Learn more] file (or wherever you have your switches).

Install the Broadlink Control palette in Node-RED (click the Hamburger menu at top right corner> Settings> Palette> Install and type Broadlink. Click install on the node-red-contrib-broadlink-control.

I'm having a couple of problems with the temperature part of the BroadLink remote sensor accessory for the RM4 mini and pro. For some reason when I say "hey google, what is the temperature in the bedroom" it will return with "It is xx.x degrees" but its in Celsius even though everything I can think of is set to Fahrenheit. When I ask what the nest thermostat says it replies in Fahrenheit but when I ask what the temperature in the living room from the Broadlink sensor, it will reply in Celsius. Now, I thought it was the sensor that had something to do with it but I recently bought an Amazon echo, which turned out to be a real POS but in the Alexa app on my phone it, showed the nest thermostat as well as both the temps of the sensors with their readings in Fahrenheit. Oddly enough in the Alexa app it didn't show the humidity sensors.

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