Xp2000 Battery

[Sear Sommerfeldt]

ExideXPRESS battery the latest offering from Exide that promises superior Cranking Power at a fantastic price. This battery Withstands bumps and vibrations, Special polypropylene container with strengthening ribs makes the battery strong enough to withstand severe operating conditions and arduous vibrations in service. This is Maintenance-free and Requires topping up only once in 6 months. Special alloy ensures low water loss during high-temperature operations.

Exide is the top battery manufacturers in India providing a wide range of Generator and Truck batteries. This Exide Xpress XP2000 model Genset Short type FLAT Plates design battery is 12 Volts and 200Ah monoblock battery suitable for all types of Genset, Four Wheeler, Truck, Bus and Heavy Vehicle cranking applications. This battery comes with Magic eye to Easy to ascertain the state of the charge as well as electrolyte level of the battery.

This car battery is one of a series of car batteries. This battery is made of alloys and it is suitable for the Indian temperature. It has low maintenance, easy to handle, and gives a powerful performance with high efficacy.

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My current setup has a dual battery bank with a starter battery on each bank, (this is how it came) and I added a cheap deep cycle battery on the bank I use when playing the stereo to get me through the season. I am at a point that I would like to upgrade and I am looking for some feedback. At the urging of the dealer I use, I will be using Shuriken AGM batteries. My plan is to replace the starter & deep cycle battery on one bank and leave the other starter battery on the other bank. I am not sure if I should use one 4000 watt 140 ah battery or two 2400 watt 120 ah batteries. Space really isn't an issue because I can make either setup fit. And although I would prefer not to use shore power I do have access and can if I need to. I also am not opposed to using two 4000 watt batteries but I am guessing that would be a bit of overkill and a bigger strain to my alternator.

We definitely have a mixed use for the stereo... sometimes we may spend hours out with the boat running while we do all of our activities, and then we may go 2-3 hours in the evening listening to the stereo at a high level while we are parked. When I asked this question of my dealer of which setup to use he just said either setup would work and should be more than enough for what I described. I am just looking for feedback or suggestions on which may be the preferred method.

The Blue Sea 7610 ACR is not a distribute on demand device. Its way simpler and has an open and close voltage threshold. This is based on the voltage of each bank, not really based on alternator voltage. The main cranking bank will always see alternator input when the engine is running. Depending on voltage, the ACR will either close/combine the house bank to the main bank or open/isolate the house bank from the main cranking bank. There will be plenty of times when both banks are being charged, as opposed to one being charger to full before the other sees any charger.

I wanted to make this distinction, because there are devices that will distribute the alternator charge based on need. These type of devices typically have 3 large studs, one for alt and the other 2 for the batteries. The ACR has only 2.

Wetsounds has a partnership with XS batteries and I swear by them. I have an XP3000 which would give my 2400 watt Wetsounds system 4-5 hrs of docked play time between charges. I just added a second to run in parallel off the first in the perko #2 position (as I added another amp and am at 3000 watts) thus, am hoping to get even more playtime.

AGM's certainly have some pros over wet cell, but Ah is Ah and amp draw is amp draw, regardless of battery type. A bank of wet cell can support a large stereo just the same and will good maintenance, yield good life.

Anyone have a good source for a calculator to determine Ah capacity and stereo run time? All the ones I've found seem WAY off, including XS Power's calculator. It says I need 44 XP3000 batteries to run a 1000w amp for 6 hours.

I've got just under 5000w of stereo and 3 XP3000 and 1 XP2000 (overkill, I know, but never want to run out of power). I've ran the stereo at pretty high volumes for 7 hours and my voltage was reading 12.1 (roughly 50% charge still). Just curious how to calculate it for future projects.

You apply the collective amplifier efficiency based on the type and the load impedance channel by channel. Note, with all type amplifiers the efficiency changes at different load impedances. Lower impedance loads means lower efficiency.

Here's the most difficult factor to figure. So far we have a purely DC calculation. However, music is very transient in nature, in other words, quick bursts of AC. So the music calculation might be 20% of the DC numbers. And the type of music makes a difference. Continuous-bass-heavy music will consume power differently than other types.

A/Hs are based on empty being 10.5 volts. You do not want to exhaust consumer-grade deep-cycle battery levels below 50%....so 11.8 volts absolute minimum. So you are now using half the A/H spec as the bottom point.

The 3 big batteries are my stereo bank and the XP2000 is my backup battery........................but I run the battery switch on ALL and have never isolate the banks. I also have a Stinger 60 amp Power Supply in there to charge every time the boat comes off the water. I also have a Mechman 240 amp alternator to keep it topped off while underway.

I stopped buying deep cycle batteries 20 years. I am pretty hard on them and would have to buy new every couple years since they only came with a 1 year warranty. I just buy standard automotive batteries now and just deep cycle them. They come with a 3 year free replacement warranty and are always exchanged without a problem. Ends up being much cheaper.

Nice! Assume your bank of 3 is in parallel? I used the 2000 to replace the factory deep cycle (#2) in the stock location/box and then wired my 3000 to it in parallel. I mounted my HF1215 intellicharger in there as well so I can charge when I'm back at the dock. What kind of idle play time do you think I will get off this setup at 3100 watts? Last summer I had only the 3000 running 2400 watts and that seemed to get me 3-4 hrs of play time. I went with the current setup figuring I could add another 3000 if I wanted more play time.

Like David said, only you can estimate your system run time based off of what you've seen in the past. I'm guessing that you might get 5-6 hrs of play time if you run the XP2000 and XP3000 together. Add another XP3000 and you can go all damn day.

I never isolate them because the first few times I went out with the system, totally forgot to turn the switch. The lowest I have ever seen my voltage gauge was 11.8v when I was running a similar wattage Exile setup (had class AB amps, so more power draw). Boat started up just fine at that voltage (4 batteries had plenty of cranking amps). I watch my digital voltage gauge like a hawk now and would just start the boat up before it drops below 11.8v, which I've never seen. It's a little hard on my alternator to try and charge up 4 batteries, but I put it on the charger right after I get it out of the water. The boat goes from the party cove right on the trailer and back to the condo/house/what ever to charge up. The next morning, the batts are reading full charge and ready for another day out on the water.

David, I've been running the Stinger with the SCM, which is supposed to make it switch into a charging mode. Have been running this setup for 5 years and have never had a problem. Batteries are always charged and never a hint of problems. I just swapped out the Kinetik batteries for XS Power batteries because I was moving to AZ and it was going to take a bit of fab work for my stereo guy to change them out. But the Kinetik's were working just fine, just figured 5 seasons with heavy use was enough to warrant new batteries.

All used power supplies similar to the Stinger, Cascade, & Kinetik. All claimed "intelligent". All had supplemental battery banks. And all where in use six long days per week. And all experienced battery life shorter than what we expected.

So we used an AC relay to shut down the power supply and a solenoid to isolate the batteries at the exact same time the display was shut down. Overnight the battery bank was then maintained by a small amperage 'Smart' Ctek charger.

I've also had experience running very large audio systems on cruisers where the gen supplied AC to DC power supplies (like two 90 amp models in parallel)rather than overwhelming the onboard charger/convertor. In the same way, once the load was gone the power supplies where automatically disabled. And we immediately switched to a dedicated smart charger.

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