Smart Switch Qr Code

[Suyay Escarsega]

Thisis a driver for the Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch ( -z-wave-switch) model ZW078. It's a port of the Smart Switch 6 code with appropriate functions add/removed. You can safely use the built-in HDSS driver for this device, but there were a couple of functions missing and I didn't like having dimmer and color settings on the switch controlling my dryer, even if the device would ignore those commands.

Edit 5/14/19: (This is now a whole new device driver since my original post)

Edit 6/12/20: I'm no longer on HE, so this driver is unsupported. I will say that no combination of my driver or the from-scratch drivers by syepes ever did get me what I felt was consistent power reporting with the HDSS, unlike the perfect reporting I got from my ZEN15's. I don't know if that's a problem with Hubitat or with the HDSS. I did resort to putting in a Rule Machine rule to poll the device every minute, and that seemed to get things "good enough" (I only used the HDSS for reporting power usage to monitor laundry).

My dryer is electric. I pondered how to best do this for days on end. My dryer is 2 feet from my electrical panel and it's an older house so I needed to replace the 240V outlet anyway, so I had a number of options. But because it's an old house and I have some electrical and plumbing projects planned, I didn't want to risk doing something that wouldn't be code compliant and cause problems down the road.

I couldn't figure out a good way to hardwire the HDSS that would be code compliant, so I cheated. I got a few feet of 10-gauge 4-conductor flexible cable from Lowe's, and ran that from the dryer to the smart switch (It fit perfectly in the gasket on the switch, and I put terminal connectors on the cable to make it more secure on both ends), then I wired the dryer plug to the smart switch. Basically, I made the switch part of the appliance rather than part of the house. I think that should be legit. The one thing I did do for good measure was secure the switch to the wall rather than to the dryer - didn't want the vibration to cause any problems.

2019-05-22 14:57:38.719 errorgroovy.lang.GroovyRuntimeException: Ambiguous method overloading for method java.lang.Long#minus. Cannot resolve which method to invoke for [null] due to overlapping prototypes between: [class java.lang.Character] [class java.lang.Number] on line 874 (parse)

Thank you for this. I have it working. I did have difficulty pairing the switch. Had to dig out my old WinK 1 hub to exclude it before I was able to pair with Hibitat. For the dryer I used the power meter setting in rules to create an Alexa TTS message. The other half is very happy. A Sonoff tasmota'd S31 for the washer notification and this Aeotec Heavy Duty for the dryer. "The dryer is done!"

I just switched to your driver. The peng1can driver was misbehaving. Not sure why. Switching drivers got my dryer notifications going again and seems to have resolved some hub slowdowns. And maybe there was a bit of corruption on the device and switching back would yield the same results. I don't know enough to know.

i have a negear prosafe GS725T switch with the oldest firmware on it and i would like to update it to newest firm but in order to do so i need to update the boot code first but i am unable to find any documentation specifically for this model the closest thing i found was for GS724TS and the options listed are not present like "Maintenance > download> ..."

What is the exact model number that you are trying to update the boot code? You may need to do a step by step upgrade of the firmware in order for you to update the boot code on each family version. You cannot just jump to the latest version as it may brick your switch.

i am not intending on jumping firmware versions but go in a ladder fashion. if i understand you correctly, i can upgrade my firmware untill i am presented with more features in the web gui to upgrade the boot code?

so this is directly copied from the switch browser admin dashboard. i am not sure what version is the switch exactly and i wont have physical presence to the hardware untill a few days but it maybe v1. btw i did a reset so all configuration info is from a reset .

I can't seem to find the right model for your device. I assume this is a GS724Tv2. The boot code is included in the zip file once you downloaded the posted firmware in our downloads page. You may need to update the boot code first before proceeding further.

right so i already have that zip file but what i am not understanding is how is the boot code uploaded to the switch? there is no directions provided in that zip other than "make sure ot upgrade boot code" .... i found some other directions but that was for GS724v4 which has different features which mines lack in the webui.

Hello all! I have been working on a project for a while. My goal is to make a super smart switch using Blynk. I have the switch part of it (that was the easy part), but the next step is to add a display. I am using a WEMOS D1 mini lite, a relay shield, and an OLED shield.

Thanks for your reply! I have read through what you sent me and it was helpful, but I am still having a hard time understanding how to implement it. Any examples that you could give me that pertain specifically to what I need would be great!

My smart switch Arduino nano clone is performing VERY slowly! Turn off and on commands take 20 - 35 seconds to execute and then it returns current voltage value to master arduino node. What is causing this delay and how to correct it ?

a- There is no issue with the speed of Java Server/Internet connection as I totally eliminated internet comm from the system and tested the smart switch using programmed "on"/"off" commands from the arduino uno master node.

b- Upon trying to debug the code I found that the part of smart switch node's code where it takes multiple readings using "emonlib" from the ZMPT101B sensor is the culprit as it taking more than 15 to 20 seconds to complete the entire process of recording voltage.

c- When I run a separate test code which contained only the ZMPT101B sensor voltage recording code on the SAME nano : it worked well and recorded voltage within 1-2 seconds. Clearly RAM is overloading on loading bluetooth comm and voltage reading code together .

This arduino master receives "switch on" and "switch off" commands over the ethernet from a remote Java Server and passes over these commands using NRF24L01 base node to individual smart switches' bluetooth module. The smart switch concerned then processes the request using its nano and turns on or off the relay.

But I'm just wondering if there is some fundamental issue that prevents single-pole dual smart switches from being certified? GE, Leviton, etc. make tons of smart switches but no dual ones. With there being ZERO reputable manufacturers making these, but several shady ones doing so, one has to wonder why?

Update 3:The Zooz dual switch arrived yesterday and indeed seems to do the trick! It has US and Canada ETL cert and looks and feels like a legitimate switch unlike the plastic garbage out there.

The dimmer part paired with my ADT Control system despite ADT not being listed as a compatible. The "relay" (for the fan) didn't pair but I assume that is because of the hub; they note that the Smartthings hub needs a special update so I'm sure it's just a software issue. It also doesn't bother me that much since turning off the lights from bed is more important than the fan which I have on 99% of the time.

The type of control flexibility you want with multiple controlled devices at a single wallstation isn't really addressed by "smart switches" per se, as the programming becomes involved enough that a single, standalone "smart" wallbox control with that functionality is no longer worthwhile. Instead, what you get into at that level are systems of lighting control, designed for complex situations where entire sets of lights can be controlled with a single button. While there are a variety of products that can handle the duty, most require special low-voltage control wires from the wallstations to a central control unit, which rules them out in a retrofit like this. However, the Insteon system uses a mix of power-line and wireless communications that lends itself well to retrofits, and also has a FanLinc module available for precisely the job you are after; namely, controlling a fan and its associated lights (or a different set of lights) simultaneously.

In this situation, I'd use an Insteon keypad module connected to always-hot and neutral at the wallbox, while bringing that same always-hot and neutral up to the fan. At the fan, a FanLinc module is wired, much the same way you'd do with any other fan remote receiver; this gives you full dimming control over the connected lights, as well as multi-speed control of the fan. You can also replace the existing wallbox dimmer with an Insteon dimmer and make all the lights in the room "talk", allowing for one-button scene control of both light sets from the same keypad that handles the fan. Of course, all the Insteon gear is properly listed and labeled -- Insteon was in the "smart" game well before all the consumer-gadget vendors jumped on the bandwagon.

First of all, please make sure that there is a HomeKit badge on the package as shown in the first picture below. If not, the accessory will not support HomeKit and won't have a HomeKit setup code. For switches, please tap "Don't Have a Code or Can't Scan" and input the setup code manually. The 8-digit code is on the label shown as the second picture below. For non-switch products, you can find the label shown as the third picture below on the product or user manual.

c. Connect your iPhone or iPad to a 2.4GHz Wi-Fi network to add the accessory. The installation is going to fail with a 5GHz Wi-Fi network as shown below. If you are having a Mesh Wi-Fi system or having a unique Wi-Fi name for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands, in most cases, the router will allow you to finish the pairing. If the Home app fails to pair the accessory, as shown below, then please turn off the 5GHz Wi-Fi of your router temporarily until the accessory is successfully added.

3a8082e126