Reimax Oil Pump

[Nazarena Lugg]

high-flow-water-pump-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34-wgnc34.html

As you can see below, they offer significant flow over the OEM or N1 pumps. One thing that does concern me is the amount of blades. At higher RPM they might end up being a restriction as the general consensus is that you reduce the amount of blades at higher RPM to leave room for flow.

Having 8 blades would help flow at lower RPM for example idle RPMs.

It has the back plate design that is mean to stop cavitation too.

Has anyone used these and can give some feedback? Thanks in advance.

I want to go electric on the race car, but I want to beef up the BNR34 with something a bit better. It's just a streeter with 550-600awhp. I don't boost it that much at all.

Up here in the tropics it gets very hot and it's a struggle to keep it under control.

Figured a larger pump and some better fans should help the situation.

I've got a larger PWR core and it is no better than the stock rad. Pretty disapointed in it.

Seems to be an airflow issue though. At 100kmph I can see temps as low as 7x degrees, even lower in winter. (Thermostat is a low temp nismo). But at idle, they get up there.

Tried the stock fan, a GKtech fan, and a Spal3000. The spal 3000 is the only way to keep it under control.

Yeah an at idle problem might benefit from more water flow, but as you mentioned fan airflow is the place to start followed by radiator volume and radiator air flow (shroud on fan and sealing air leakage around the rad)

Electric water pumps still call for a thermostat don't they? I remember reading in the SAE journal papers on the 2ZR-FXE about their implementation of the EWP and that engine still has a thermostat and all that fun stuff.

Got sealing around the edges and bottoms of the rad and intercooler? Effort put into forcing all the air to go through those cores instead of allowing paths around them can be very well spent. Seal up the gaps to the undertray, etc etc, down the sides. Just use sticky backed Bunnings foam for a first pass test to see if you gain anything and if it's worth putting more effort in with sheet metal. I've just used corflute for some of this. Cheap, light, painted black you'd not know that it wasn't factory plastic.

Hey mate!

I sure do already. Foam etc. Plate on the top of the rad support etc.

Do you think this tropics up here is partially to blame? 30+ degree heat and 90% humidty some days. It's so shit.

Not really. Humidity doesn't really enter into the equation for a car. The radiator works about the same regardless. Humidity is really only an issue when you use evaporative cooling (ie, your sweat).

30+ is not hot. Summer down here is 35-45. In 35 heat my car is fine. It's typically fine in 40 heat - although the oil temperature is certainly rising by the end of a 40 minute drive home after work. 45C is also fine, just the oil gets hot earlier. All of this is with AC on (OK, well, except for the 35 case, because who needs AC at that temperature?). But I'll happily drive with the window down at 45 with no AC, and the car will keep going forever like that.

Also, what is the state of the fan clutch? Does it lock up reasonably when it's hot, or does it continue to spin quite freely? If it's pretty loose, that could be your culprit. They usually fail towards lockup rather than sloppy, but anything is possible.

Hey mate, anwers to your questions and suggestions.

What makes me think it is an airflow issue is that when I turn the AC off but force the fan on it helps.

The clutch is brand new and it's locking up quite well. Definitely no issue there.

You could stick the AC fan on a switch, and flick it on when in traffic etc. I've upgraded my AC fan to something bigger, and I have it come with the AC as well as when ECT goes over 96(Only in crawling traffic)

It is rotor SET of the trochoid profile of original design. The material is processed by wire cutting of highly reliable SCM440H. It exerts high strength even in sports driving where high speed is frequently used.

It is a kit that can increase the capacity and strength of the genuine oil pump without processing. Protects the engine during sports driving.

[CAPACITY UP]

The thickness of the rotor is increased to cover the amount of oil in the oil line that extends due to the installation of the oil cooler. The flow rate with a margin prevents the oil pressure from dropping at high temperatures.

[STRENGTH UP]

The material of the rotor has been changed to increase the strength compared to the genuine product. Sufficient durability can be obtained even in scenes where the accelerator is turned on and off at high revs.

R - ZONE engine oil is engine oil that combines motor sports and street developed from the point of view of Tribology * by considering the lubricant of the engine in earnest. Ultimate lubricity and performance of less than 0.5% viscosity reduction promise different-sized experiences. In motor sports, we emphasize extreme lubrication in heat resistance, hydraulic stability, high rotation speed range, and it is a level that can be used even in the works team as full-fledged racing oil. On street, emphasis is placed on the formation of an oil film that can be protected even at engine startup, and it can be used in the same cycle as ordinary engine oil in the life cycle.

We are always on the pursuit of improving the FA20 Engine platform and after looking into ways to improve the oil system and flow across the engine we have found the Reimax High Flow Oil Pump Gears kit a must have addition to any highly tuned/forged internals FA20 setup

And now these Oil Pump Gears have just got one better with this new Capacity up upgrade kit which also for a larger oil gear drive to be fitted to offer maximum oil flow at the highest oil temperatures, requires modification to the stock oil pump gear housing by machining 2mm off the back to allow for this kit to fit.

The Reimax Oil Pump Gear Kit is made of a high quality chromoly steel and will make your engine much more reliable. This item was developed and used for the N1 Endurance Races and was found to be quite successful. The Reimax Oil Pump Rotor Kit is designed to replace the rotors in the N1 oil pump to increase strength and durability for circuit conditions. Constructed from SCM430H material for increased strength and durability.

Element Tuning managed to damage a bearing (one of the middle ones fed by the single larger oil channel) due what points to low oil pressure. In the end they had an Oil accumulator, pump and modified the oil channels in the block to increase pressure. They ened up with soemthing like 80PSI at 9k rpms with 550HP.

I don't think the GPRM motors are dry sumped, they just use an extraordinarily large catch can. I remember when I was there they had two FA20 motored cars with the hoods up and one even had the sump off, it looked like a stock pick up to me with a swivelling extension on the end.

I can confirm the crank in the FA 20 is extremely strong. For a start it is forged, it is very short and it has good overlap between the journals. I have clocked the crank in my motor which took in water. It bent the rods and smashed the ring lands off the pistons, but the crank clocks up perfect. It is also perfectly round on each journal.

GPRM probably have an oil accumulator. It not a catch can exactly. Its filled with oil and is designed to feed oil into the system when the pickup at the bottom in the sump is not picking up oil due to large cornering forces. The accumulator is pressurised from one side, so if pressure drops it, as would be the case if it was being starved of oil, the accumulators feeds high pressure oil into the engine.

Although there are some race cars with a dry sump setup, it seems most motorsports firms are finding an oil accumulator adequate for running slicks and silly power. The main thing they concentrate on is increasing oil pressure. I'd love to know what Nicholson McLaren have done with the FA20.

Thanks for posting this Lauren. They bare obviously seeing lube issues if they're going to the trouble of dry sumps. It was definitly the FA 20 yeah? I believe they also use the EJ, or so I've been told?

The 'upgraded oil pump' was binned by my engine builder, as its clearance tolerances were outside his acceptable parameters when compared with 'standard' Toyo clearances. We are talking tiddy bits here - 2thou to 5thou? - but sufficient to cause blow-by at these psi pressures..

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