Download Makerbot Desktop

[Margit Szermer]

Eversince I downloaded the new version of the firmware for the Makerbot replicator 2 I have had trouble bringing up anything on my Makerbot desktop. It says that the Makerbot software has stopped working, "a problem has caused the program to stop working. Windows will close the program and notify you if a solution becomes available". Has anyone had a similar problem or know how to solve it? Thanks for the help in advance.

This is how I run my printer off cura with no real issues. Only weird thing is it will heat up the nozzle and print bed, then go through the startup sequence and reheat both again because it doesn't hold the initial M104 and M109 commands populated by cura prior to the start g code command. Slightly delays the start of the print, but does not create any issues.

Only reason I posted this was because other topics either specifically reference a replicator 2 or seem inconclusive. With this, I'm able to full replace makerbot desktop with cura (again have not tested dual extrusions. I will do so once I have a replacement heater block).

For whatever reason, it won't let me log in with the profile I posted that on. But apparently the FFF profile has an issue with origin. So instead of using FFF profile, just modify the existing Replicator profile with posted values and that does work fine but does not work with dual extruders.

Not sure exactly what the problem with origin is but the main one is if a printer considers the centre of the bed as the origin instead of the front left corner. There's a toggle for Origin at center in the printer settings. If it's taking the origin as slightly away from where it should be, then just set the nozzle offsets for your extruders to the opposite of that to compensate.

@Slashee_the_Cow But the machine doesn't hold temperature with M190 ?. The M109 in the start gcode does keep the temperature though? Is it because makerbot didn't write the firmware correctly?

Also, is there a way to change the M190 that Cura generates?

Hey @JoshofAllTrades, could you tell me what printer settings you use in your Cura profile for the replicator 2x. I got my rep2x a little while back and have been trying to move from the MakerBot desktop slicer but can't get a Cura profile right.

hey Alex, makerbot desktop will recognise it out of the box as a replicator 1 duo. It has a sailfish firmware and that also works with makerbot desktop, updating is really easy. it will work nice from day one, but with some upgrades you can improve it even more. Cheers, Rence

I will be going for the CTC, short term this will act as a backup to my Replicator 2 for some jobs, and will also contribute a Mightyboard clone to my review of current firmware and electronics options, as I develop my own electronics, so the Rep2 can remain unhacked.

Finally I have prints working quite well (only with MakerBot slicer, which is fine for me). I had a spare USB camera module laying around so I thought I'd set up Octoprint to take time lapses of some of my builds.

Octolapse was an obvious choice, and definitely made it sound easy to do. But that has not been my experience. I'm sure it's great for those who have printers already supported. I recently looked through the GitHub history of the Octolapse project and saw that, at one point at least, there was support for the MakerBot Replicator series.

Octolapse has an overwhelming number of options to configure and the underlying logic in how these settings are used is quite vague at times. I appreciate the capability for advanced users to configure it exactly how they want, but it seems like it could've been simplified a bit for users like me.

1.) In layer trigger mode, Octolapse sees only the first layer (may be the priming stage, where the printer prints a line on the front edge of the bed before printing the actual model). Octolapse will not trigger again after this. The height always stays at 0mm.

2.) In z-hop trigger mode, the z-hop trigger icon changes every now and then but does not cause any capture to take place

These first two issues may be related to the fact that the z-axis is inverted on the replicator. Not sure though, because the documentation doesn't really go into detail as to how a new "layer" is detected.

I then tried manually inserting "snap" gcode commands into my print just as a test. Octolapse docked the extruder at the correct location (the Replicator uses absolute coordinates to my knowledge, so I just set it to the fixed "heating" location) but then proceeds to slam the extruder into the opposite end of the x-axis while continuing the print!

Thanks! I am a nube to the octoprint, but I have been fiddling with it for about 2 weeks now, and love what it does, I have everything I wanted working now, but the Octolapse would be nice to have, but I am looking for help to make it work on a makerbot Replicator 2x (if it can be done).

I normally use the makerbot desktop slicer and export to .x3g file on SD card and sneaker net it into the printer. Now I am using the GPX pluggin, and the same Makerbot slicer but exporting as Gcode and upload to Octoprint.

For starters, I guess, it would help to find out if there is a printer in the configured choices that would be close to the replicators 2 or 2X. It would also be helpful to have the slicer that might be similar to the Makerbot desktop. (if not could you recommend a slicer that would be available if I need to use another?). once I can get started, I think I can try to match up all the settings needed.

I tried to start with other, for the slicer, and just started filling in the slicer settings from my makerbot desktop software, but there were quite few fields that I could not find on the makerbot desktop.

I didn't change it much and I'm still trying to get the camera to behave as I have to have a high 3500ms delay. That mostly works but it seems to forget the delay sometimes for a few layers. Also have to figure out the nasty seam that Octolapse causes.

I know this is an older post, but I do not see a Makerbot profile in the latest Octolapse and I was wondering if you've had any luck in nailing your settings down with the Replicator 2. I'm running the same printer and thought I'd check before going down the rabbithole.

The software sees some fantastic enhancements to the software in the form of custom profile setting, allowing for greater flexibility and control for more complex prints in the 5th Generation range of desktop 3D printers.

This latest software update enables the MakerBot 5th Generation range of desktop 3D printers to retain their simplicity and ease of use, whilst also enabling more experienced users to fine tune their prints.

You need a heated bed to use PETG. If memory serves none of the current makerbots have a heated bed. If you do have a heated bed then you need to heat it to 90 and your hotend needs to be able to reach 230 to 250. PETG and PETG+ are the only material I use on my FDM machine. The PETG+ has Polycarbonate added for added toughness.

I am trying to print files that my students and I are creating in Autodesk inventor. I have been able to export the part files to .stl and then place them in the Makerbot desktop and successfully print. However, I would like for my 3D prints to print in two colors. Any suggestions for how to make it print in two colors? Could it be that I need to create an assembly and ecport that? Doesn't seem like that would fix it but I am at a loss.

To print in two different colours, you'll need to 'split' your part into two STL files and then, in MakerBot Desktop, assign each file to a different extruder. MakerBot have made a video detailing the process:

Discover how DLP (digital light processing) 3D printing technology is enabling end-part production at scale with materials, mechanical properties, speed, and part economics similar or better to traditional manufacturing.

To ensure easy, accessible 3D printing, the MakerBot Replicator+ desktop 3D printer comes with the Smart Extruder+ and all the standard features you would expect from an advanced technology including an LCD display, an on-board camera, as well as USB, Wi-Fi, and Ethernet connectivity.

The MakerBot Replicator+ desktop 3D printer comes packed with features to ensure easy, accessible 3D printing such as a modular extrusion system design to keep up with material advancements and hardware improvements. In addition, an on-board camera, LCD display as well as connectivity via Wi-Fi, USB and Ethernet keep you connected to your 3D prints no matter where you are.

Pair the system with advanced software such as MakerBot Print and MakerBot Mobile to take full advantage of wireless cloud-enable connectivity and the ability to import native CAD files, auto-arrangement and multi-printer printing.

The MakerBot Replicator+ prints 30% faster than its predecessor while offering a 25% larger build volume. Improved hardware, like a redesigned gantry and z-stage delivers greater reliability and accuracy in every print job.

With the new Grip Surface, prints adhere better, resulting in reduced warping and curling- without the need of blue tape. Prints are easily removed as the Flex Build Plate is bendable and allows your part to snap off with ease. The build plate is also factory-leveled so your Replicator+ is ready to go right out of the box.

I have a Makerbot Z18 that used .makerbot files to print from. I downloaded PrusaSlicer in hopes of there being a better option over the Makerbot Slicer, there was a profile for Makerbot printers that uses sailfish, but after slicing the printer does not recognize the file as it is not a .makerbot, just a normal gcode file. I'm wondering if I am just going about this the wrong way or if Makerbot has truly went away from open source. If anyone knows of another way to slice my models other than using the locked down makerbot slicer please reply to this post. Thanks

I think the only way to go here is to get a conversion tool to support the .makerbot format. It's very strange that slicing for the MakerBot software is done using AWS resources (watch the network traffic as you do it!).

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