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Ok here is my problem with the new zwift play controllers.
My Left controller will not connect by bluetooth on my pc running windows 11.
During the start up of zwift it will see my wahoo kicker, heartrate monitor just fine.
Then I try to connect my play controllers in the steering section and it sees both controllers but will only connect to the right one. The Z on the controller will go from flashing blue to steady blue on the right one but the left one will continue to flash.
The steering section shows both controllers and the battery levels and I can check the boxes to select both controllers but it will just keep showing connecting.
I wanted to know if the bluetooth was a problem with the controller so I closed the zwift program on my laptop and opened the companion app on my table and was able to connect both controllers to the companion right away and could see that both controllers were up to date with firmware.
SO back to the zwift on the pc, still would not connect the left controller. I even went all the way to uninstall zwift from my PC and reinstall zwift again. Still same issue, left controller would not connect.
If it is a distance issue I do not believe it as right now I have both controllers sitting RIGHT NEXT to the PC.
Both controllers worked fine the first 3 times that I used them and it was with the last version of zwift as today I just got the new update zwift, so the problem is with the most current and the last version.
Kind of at a loss right now with these controller, loved them the 3 rides that I did get to use them but kind of a big disappointment now, and if I can not figure this out soon they are going back!
I just tried that and there is one heck of a lag time around 2-3 seconds from when I pressed a button and something happened.
But yes I was able to connect both controllers by using my tablet as a bridge but just not usable.
As soon as I went back to bluetooth thru the PC the problem came right back, the left controller will not connect and the Z just keeps flashing.
It is just odd that it will not connect thru the PC but I can see the battery level and the controller it self? I mean if I turn off the left controller the controller on the list of devices in the steering section will go away? So the PC and zwift is seeing the left controller it just will not finish the connecting process.
I had a similar issue where the left controller would not connect. Contacted Zwift help and they sent me an article relating to calibrating the play controllers. Note the article only says to calibrate if told to do so by Zwift. Anyhow, this seems to have fixed the connection issue I was having. Suggest you contact Zwift help for support.
I am currently having the same issues with the same symptoms as D Hardy. I have updated the firmware on the controllers. I have purchased a new USB hub and dongle to move the dongle closer to the controllers. I have tried both Windows 11 and Windows 10 versions on 2 different computers still without success. I have turned controllers on after Zwift program has booted without success. Initially, I had intermittent connection issues, then with the new USB hub, it seems to connect just like D Hardy describes in his email. The Zwift Play controllers show they are connected on the computer screen, the lights on the controller are both solid blue. I see the icon showing connection when I ride, but the controllers do not function. I am at a loss on what to do now for they simply will not work even though they show they are connected on either PC computer running WII or W10.
Zwift Play complements any Zwift setup and makes it easy to give Ride Ons or use Powerups. Zwift Play unlocks virtual shifting for quiet and smooth gear changes for compatible smart trainers. Check out our comparison chart to see if your trainer is virtual shifting compatible.
Zwift Play offers real-time, responsive control from your handlebars. With steering and braking control, you can take your racing or rides to the next level. Use the new controls to get a gap or stay with a friend.
The Zwift Play controllers are well thought out and fun to interact with your avatar. It makes riding on the trainer more fun for long distance rides. Anyone doubting themselves on spending $99 on them just do it.
Enjoying the Zwift Play: it was easy to set up; the battery life is excellent; easy to charge; the feel of steering is very good. Didn't think I'd use the braking feature but it's great for riding with Robo Pacer and going after the sprint jerseys
Now, a quick geeky aside. I asked Zwift whether or not this used the existing Bluetooth game controller protocol (a long-standing protocol used throughout the tech industry for many years). Zwift said no, and that they actually tried for a while to use it, but found that for some PC users specifically, the bonding to the computer would become challenging if the user had to decouple to use on another device (like an iPad). Thus, they shifted away from that after testing.
As a fellow Sterzo Smart user, I was wondering about how much utility these add. Definitely intersection turning is cool and activating power ups without having to move my hand from the hood to the microkeyboard at the center of my bars would be nice, but my big wonder comes down to how important braking is going to be.
As I tried to order it without success, few hours laters I received this email telling me I still have a product waiting to my order. I reply and explain I would like to order but they only ship in USA even if the store mention Americas! I quote their answer: At the moment we do not have a estimate date for when we will ship to Canada or Mexico at the moment we suggest to check our website periodical for updates.
Zwift is trying to get as many users as possible to use their app. That includes mountain bike, gavel and regularly riders that want to exercise and train when the weather or time is not right to bike outside. Then they ship this which works with only drop bars which is like only on what 30% bikes sold? Do better Zwift.
Well that sucks. That seems like a big flaw and I would have thought that the 97.6% success rate would have included some Campag tests making that number lower, but maybe there are just that few Campag bikes in shops.
Per the Tech Specs on the Play product page, Flat bars are not compatible. It may be possible to actual connect via the mount (but the default internal curve and strap may not mesh well with flat bars and associated controls). Even if it can mount the alignment will be less than ideal.
Received my Zwift Play Controllers the other day and had time to fully test them this afternoon. When they work and stay connected, they are Brilliant and can be quite fun but when the Right controller keeps on disconnecting from the BT and you find you cannot steer right anymore but only Left, not so great. I know these are in a Beta situation so I am patient and will wait for new and upcoming firmware updates.
Anyone have had functional issues with their controllers? Mine would not steer correctly, buttons had incorrect functionality, and they would not go into reset protocol. I am guessing that this may be some sort of interference on my end, because I received a replacement set that had the same issue. So I am returning them. Willing to give this another shot in the future
At the very least, it would only take up one BLE connection to the Zwift device which seems like a good thing generally speaking. There is not enough going on between the Play and Zwift that it seems a direct connection to both sides separately is essential. But maybe I am missing some better reason?
More immediately, if you are doing a race where fastest through segment is important and you find yourself on the front of the pack shortly before the segment starts, you can use your brake to move to the back of the pack so that you can be accelerating and still in the draft when the segment starts so that you get the best time.
I use Zwift with a laptop connection via ANT. Is it possible to combine connection methods, i.e. my Neo 2 and heart rate belt via ANT and Zwift Play via BT? Thank you for the information. Greetings from the Czech republic.
I came here looking to see if it would be possible to use this controller with TrainerRoad to control intensity and switch resistance modes, it sounds like the proprietary protocol makes that unlikely.
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A lot of games, particularly PC games, take the raw analog stick input and directly map it to turning (or mouse input). This often makes it too jerky to aim properly even if sensitivity is turned down. Most console games won't do this and apply some sort of smoothing. This is effectively treating the player as if they have a moment of inertia like a physical object. While this sucks for mouse, it really improves the analog stick input. N64 games like Doom 64 and Quake 64 had some smoothing for the analog stick input. But Quake 2 on the N64 did not and its so hard to control compared to Doom 64 and Quake 64.
Conversely analog stick smoothing, makes it hard for those peripherals that connect a mouse to a PS4 or XB1 to emulate mouse controls properly. Like Doom 2016 on the PS4 rightfully has analog stick smoothing. But if you use something like a Hori TAC Pro to try to play PS4 Doom 2016 with mouse and key it becomes very annoying to control (even with the manufacturer presets for Doom 2016).
On PC though, I do like using my Hori TAC Pro to play Doom with analog stick movement and mouse aiming. Kind of a weird hybrid, but one that I enjoy.
I also like the virtual reality combo (since I dont get motion sick) of analog controls with head aiming. So I can move around and turn with a controller, but I leave the aiming to where I am looking with the VR helmet (kinda like a bonus mouse aim). This means easy infinite circle strafing but without aiming suffering too much.
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