Ptc Heating Element 220v

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Lorri Dent

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Aug 3, 2024, 10:38:28 AM8/3/24

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This 18kw (18000w) 208v , 220v , 480v 3 phase heating element is commonly used in steam generators, autoclaves, pressure vessels, sterilizers, and electric steam boiler systems. This heating element is compatible with many brand name steam generators, used in alteration shops, dry cleaners, breweries, Jewelry stores ,saunas, fitness clubs and more. Always consider having a backup due to lime build up and routine maintenance.

*NOTE: The products described herein are not manufactured by Patterson-Kelley nor is Power Plus
International in any way associated or affiliated with "PK", Patterson-Kelley, or Harsco Corporation.

I'll have a temperature sensor, which would provide me information and by them, I'll be changing the behavior of the heating element. Work with the temperature sensor shouldn't be any problem, since they're made for raspi.

But my question is - is it even possible to connect it to raspi, which would be used as a power source (220V?) and to control the height of the input power (to lower/increase the temperature) at the same time? I guess I'll need to have some component between. Is there "plug'n play" solution, safe to use for an inexperienced user, which would do the work, so I can just connect it to GPIO on one side and to the heating element on the other?

And you don't really need a relay to be opto-isolated. Now, I'm not saying mains voltage is not dangerous (keep in mind it can be lethal), or 1.8kW is not a big deal, but if something goes wrong, opto-couplers are unlikely to save you. That said, most relay boards (even cheapest ones) have them, and there's no harm. If you're looking for something plug&play, there's PiFace, but most relay boards will do.

And make sure you respect at least basic safety rules. Make sure your system works before you put 220V on, to avoid any surprises (you can connect a light and a toy battery to simulate your heater and mains power). Buy a case and only switch 220V on when the case is closed and no "hot" wires can be accidentally touched. And make sure you power your project via an extension cord with a switch, so you can power it down instantly if something goes wrong. Don't rely on "pulling the plug": electrical wires can get hot, and operating a plug can prove difficult under stress.

The Raspberry Pi is powered at 5 V. Using it as a power source for a heating element with 1.8 kW would require it to cope with a current of about 360 A - about the 110-fold of what is advisable and definitely in the range of the impossible.

The only way to do this would be to have a power source which is being controlled (but not powered) by the Raspberry Pi. However, I would strongly advise to start with something more simple. 1.8 kW is a lot of power - you could easily burn down your house or inflict serious (possibly lethal) damage on people. On top of that, no insurance would cover that..

If so, they are configured that the upper element always runs more than the lower element. This is because the lower element cuts on only after the upper element cuts off. And the upper element always comes on first because hot water exits from the top.

The vast majority of water heaters are wired so that only one element at a time can be turned on. That is normally the bottom element. The upper element rarely turns on except in cases of extreme water draw down such as at the end of a long shower. In this case, cold water coming in the bottom of the tank has not been warmed enough by the bottom element and makes it way to the top element which then turns on and also turns off the bottom element. The bottom element is typically of a higher wattage than the upper element.

A number of people, me included, have seen where Sense seems to report half the power draw of heater, almost as if its reporting only one leg of the 220v, It could be that the upper element turns on and it is lower power than the bottom element. But Sense reports almost exactly half the power so it seems it really is only one AC leg being reported and not the upper element.

I have two 50 gallon electric water heaters that are controlled by zwave relays. I turn them on for just 45 minutes a day. So in my setup, the UE always kicks on first, runs for about 15-18 minutes, and then the LE of active for 22-25 minutes. So frequently, both elements shut off before the relay is turned off.

I deleted my water heater because I thought it was not read right, it has been two or three weeks and has not re-detected it, at least it is not showing up. I wish I has watched it closer. At first it look like it was reading right and like when taking a bath it was recording about 4500 -5000 watts use, I hope this helps.

Now, I recently had to fix my water heater (which is running on 240V), and noticed that the heating element basically consists of two hot legs (at 120V each) coming together. There is no neutral, no ground, just two hots (e.g. like this).

P.S. I know I have 240V in my house, and that I get it by combining to 120V legs. But what I don't understand is how a heating element can work by just having two hot legs come in; without any neutral to close the circuit.

Pretty much any 240 volt equipment doesn't need a neutral. The purpose of a neutral is to carry the in-balance load. If you have 10 amps on one leg and 5 on the other then 5 amps goes on the neutral. In a perfect world where all loads are balanced, there would be no need for a neutral.

@chanda you checked teh wiring going to your hot water heater? You checked the fuses to those lines? What is your household voltage 110V (North America) or 220/240 (Europe)? What make is your HW heater?

Yeah, your lower element is broken, you just need to buy a new one and replace it. But you have to make sure to buy the right one. If you have no idea of how to choose the right element, this article may be helpful.

So I just put a new element in causetop read 240 bottom 110 so figured lower element was bad baught new one right on looked on water heater and now lower one reads nothing have checkedbreaker there fine any help!

The upper and lower elements take turns heating the water, you will never have power to both at the same time. The upper one heats the water in the upper part of the tank first. Once it reaches the set temperature, it will shut off and then send power to the lower element. So, give the upper one time to heat up before checking the lower one. To check the lower one, I set the upper to the lowest setting (so it would shut off quickly) and then had power to the lower one. Once I knew it was working I re-set the upper one to the desired temperature.

Thanks. Finally an explanation on why the top element alone burning out can result in zero hot water even though there's a healthy lower element there. And confirmed by the Whirlpool wiring diagram. Lower element is powered by the thermostat-open leg of the upper element. They tell you if you have no heat, it's probably the top element but no explanation of why unless you peruse the wiring diagram.

It's an AO Smith electric water heater, 40 gal I think. Less than 10 years old, no deposits found in tank, no corrosion on elements. Power checks okay, top element 220v. Lower element shows no voltage.

John Bryant, You really should have posted this as a new question, instead of a comment in an answer a year old to get answered by more ifixit volunteers. On a duel element residential water heater, both elements do not heat at the same time. The link below may be able to answer you issue.

If your hot water tank is only producing lukewarm water and both the elements read right and you set the temp to the hottest it can get you probably have a leak somewhere. Make sure you have no running water in your or outside of your house and go check the meter and see if its spinning and if it is you need to go into your crawl and find your leak.

I bought a 40 gallon AO Smith water heater with dual elements, accidentally through the switch without the tank being completely filled up, that burned out the top element, dry shot, which will not let the tank heat, the bottom element was fine. The top element should be tested with an OHM meter if you didn't pull it out to see it physically damaged. If your top element was burned out, replace it, the top element heats the tank first then the bottom element takes over and the top element will not have power, they alternate.

An electric hot water heater uses heating elements, typically made of metal, to heat the water in the tank. These elements are powered by electricity and convert the electrical energy into heat energy, raising the temperature of the water. The heated water then rises to the top of the tank and is delivered through the hot water outlet when a faucet is turned on.

No, a 2000 watt 220 volt electric hot water heater is not designed to run on 110 volts. It requires the higher voltage to operate the heating elements and heat the water effectively. Attempting to run the heater on 110 volts could cause damage to the unit and potentially be a safety hazard.

No, it is not possible to convert a 2000 watt 220 volt electric hot water heater to run on 110 volts. The heating elements and other components are designed specifically for the higher voltage and cannot be easily altered. Attempting to convert the heater could also void the warranty and potentially be dangerous.