I suggest using a flat work surface for this project. I brought the damaged screen down to our table to work on this. Pry the old spline out of the groove. You can use the flathead screwdriver again for this step. Once you get a bit out, it should be fairly easy to remove it entirely. With the spline out, the old screen will come right off.
The hardest part of this project is getting the new screening to lay taut without any bubbles. My best advice is to smooth it down from the top of the screen to the bottom and then from the right to the left. This will get out any creases, wrinkles, and bubbles.
Once you have the new screen material where you want it, take your spline roller tool and pre-roll the screen into the grooves. This gets the screening into place and makes the next step easier. Keep some tension on the screen so it stays flat as you work.
to the direct question of booting in without going into windows and finding a way to restart such that it goes on, he's only seen that (directly going in), in a dual boot scenario when he had windows 10 technical preview. It may be possible to customize win10 setup to produce that.
Power up and wait for the blue windows screen with the spinning circle, when you see that press and hold power button to shut down, after shutdown power back up and do the same thing again, power up for the 3rd time and you should get repair screen.
I am trying to fix a grub issue issue using the boot repair disk that I created with UNetbootin. I do this by plugging in the bootable disk into the computer, booting into BIOS, and setting the USB drive as the primary boot device. I have successfully done this many times in the past with this disk.Since it seemed to not be working, I formatted the USB and created another bootable Boot Repair Disk.
Upon booting from BIOS from the USB stick I am confronted with the primary grub loader for Boot Disk which gives the option to edit the launch settings for Boot Repair disk. Hitting enter simply yielded a black screen, so I rebooted and this time edited the launch options with -nomodeset, but it never reaches the GUI environment.(It started to load once but never made it fully into the GUI).
I also downloaded Super Grub 2 Disk but could not get that working either as it seemed to get stuck in a boot loop. (there was only one launch option in the launch options which was 'DEFAULT', and when I select that the boot countdown recommences and it stays like that in a loop forever until I shut down or reboot)
I am running a 64 bit installation of Ubuntu 14.04 on a dual boot machine with Windows7 that boots primarily with Windows Loader. I then launch my Ubuntu from a Grub4Dos that is launched by the Windows loader.
NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 970 is a quite new graphics adapter, which often has compatibility issues with the open source nouveau drivers. Boot from the USB drive - once the GRUB menu appears, press the E key and add the parameter nouveau.modeset=0 instead of nomodeset. Now you should be able to boot properly into the boot-repair-disk environment. The same method is valid for successfully booting other Linux based distributions and most of the Linux installation media.
For anyone wondering or needing to fix your broken monitor, HP isn't going to give you the info on the panel. Asus, Acer, HP, Dell, etc, all use the same panels. The Omen 27 uses the Number:M270DTN01.3 model panel, screwed to a plastic frame and set into HPs molded ABS plastic back with their choice of stand. It is extremely easy to repair yourself and can be taken apart with two screws and some prying around the edge with a spudger or something plastic to not cause damage. These panels are literally available in the 10's of thousands from China, don't fall victim to the scam that is making Americans just buy new things because "We will". We are proving them right in this arena.
Although, if its not covered by any such extended warranty services, you may replace it on your own using the HP Parts Store, please use the HP Parts Surfer to find the part numbers of the display assembly, If you've already looked for it and couldn't order it on the HP Parts Store, you may want to get it locally at the online store such as Amazon or eBay, etc...as the part numbers are universal.
@Thadeg Since we don't deal with replacing parts when it comes to monitors, I don't have any details as such, however, I suggest you talk to HP support and discuss your options, follow the below steps to get started:
Also, if you are having trouble navigating through the above options, it's most likely because the device is out of warranty, if yes? please send me a private message with the region you are contacting us from,
Thanks for your follow up. I have the same monitor that is basically a giant night light right now. the right side/edge of the screen looks like it had something heavy hit it, but there is not external damage. The graphics in that area look cracked. The rest of the screen is just bright white. I was just about to give up on finding replacement parts when I found your thread. I'm not positive of what is wrong, so I don't know if your fix will work for me, but I'll give it a try. If you have any further input for me, I'm very open to someone with experience. Thanks again.
Yeah, it's either the panel itself or a controller inside. Myself, I would do what you're saying, buy the panel and try that first and if that doesn't work, you can find them with broken LCDs or just the controllers on eBay for really cheap. In the end, worst case scenario, you fix your monitor for $200 bucks, still less than any used, in decent condition. Good luck!
Thanks again for the follow up. Could you shoot me the site you received yours from? I've found it (in several places like you said), but there's comfort in knowing someone has had luck with a site I've never used.
The iPhone SE was collecting dust on my desk when I saw the announcement that Apple was launching its Self Service Repair program here in the US. It would appear this new program is aimed more toward DIY-ers than people looking to save money, especially if your broken phone is still under warranty.
Since I consider myself to be fairly handy when it comes to projects like this, I decided to order a repair kit and find out if I could bring some new life to this phone that had essentially become a dangerous paperweight.
Be sure to check out the specific instructions for the repair you're looking to do. I focused on the section for replacing the display, but there are also good tips on how to deal with the broken glass on your phone and how to handle damaged batteries.
Prices vary from phone to phone and job to job. The recommended display bundle for the iPhone SE, which includes the new glass, adhesive and screws costs $129.56 plus tax. This is about what it would cost to get your screen repaired by Apple, but without the sense of accomplishment of doing it yourself!
I'm not going to tell you where to find the code in the manual, because I think it is a good idea to look at the instructions before you dive in. But I will tell you that the code is different from device to device, so the code in the manual for the iPhone 13 is different than the code for the SE.
Depending on your experience as tinkerer, you might already have some of these items at home, so you could just order the remaining tools you need. Of course, there are other tools on the market that you can buy that might end up being cheaper than the ones offered here.
But unless you plan on doing repairs like this fairly often,I think renting a complete kit is the way to go. For $49, you get all the tools you need to do the job. The kit is specific to the iPhone model you're working on, and you get to keep the kit for a week.
At this point it should be noted that by renting the kit, you're agreeing to a $1,200 (plus tax) hold being placed on your credit card to cover the cost of a lost or damaged kit. The fine print says that when the kit is returned within 7 days, complete and undamaged, that the hold will be released within 5 to 7 days.
In addition to the tools that come in the case, the instruction manual also recommends having some extra supplies on hand for your convenience and safety, including safety goggles, cut-resistant gloves and an electrostatic discharge wrist strap and work mat.
The Universal Display Removal tool that came with the kit looks really cool, but I couldn't get it to do much of anything to help me get the screen to budge. I suspect this is because the screen on my iPhone SE was so badly broken, the suction cups couldn't form a good seal on the surface, even with the protective cover installed.
I wrestled with the tool for about 15 minutes before I ended up just prying the old screen off until I could break the adhesive holding it in place. I don't recommend this method if you are replacing the battery and need to keep your unbroken screen intact. But in my case, brute force was the best solution.
It's worth mentioning here that the process for removing the display from the iPhone SE is different from that of the iPhone 12 and 13 series, which requires applying heat to loosen the adhesive. I didn't get to try out the heated display removal fixture described in the manuals for those phones, but it looks even more complicated than the tool I tried to use.
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