The listing never had comments. The trouble with the listing you have there is that there are a bunch of sellers throwing up different 1x2 splitter models and then people comment on them without specifying who sold it to them.
I did apply your advice globally, but also using comments to verify. Yes, many complain about Amazon's nilly-willy mismatching of comments to "related products". They now seem to be adding the titles of the original products from where the comments came, which is a help.
So, is your above link the actual name of the seller "CVID", from who you found a working splitter? No point throwing away money on one without the full functionality they suggest -- Blu-ray, PS3, etc.
Like the Amazon reviews, some are finding models that once worked are not working in later shipments -- indicating different versions with less capabilities. However, someone in the last pages of the thread found that the Sewell splitter does work. It may be another good link ... at this point in time anyway. :)
Thanks for your answer. I already read all above messages from this topic and.... to be honest, I'm only a vet MD, and all this technical details are a little to much for me. I just want to buy a device that could be built-in a PC desktop (that I already own) with last gen Intel i7, W8 and tons of RAM (32 GB) and memory ( 2x 2TB).
What do you think about the Speed Demos Archive forum's thread I mentioned earlier? There's allot of activity there (regarding BlackMagic and other capture cards) and the mixed results with various splitters -- where some previously working boxes seemingly have been updated to be non-working, as regards taming HDCP.
I won't start to believe any claims of "updates" unless someone comes forward who CANNOT capture HDCP through the splitter to their BM device but CAN capture non-HDCP sources through the splitter to their BM device.
OK I have read through this and all this is very confusing and most all the links are dead because of linking to ebay, can you post links to an actual Store next time where items can be purchased or seen?
So we have a lot of projects lined up and some we still need good video for, namely Return of The Living Dead 2, I am not worried about audio because most of the titles we need for projects are only 2 channel anyways and we usually get the audio from the DVD or even the LD, in this case the LD, well I see Vudu has the HDX version available for PC download now, so how can I get this video? please if anyone knows how or can provide it to us we can make this project happen, someone was going to provide me with an how to video but he never came through, he said he does it through his PS3 somehow, but anyways any info on this would be a huge help to us and future cool projects.
I've determined the model numbers for all the cards I had listed now (not sure how I missed a couple of them in the descriptions before). So you can search on eBay ("include description") or elsewhere for those numbers.
well I see Vudu has the HDX version available for PC download now, so how can I get this video? please if anyone knows how or can provide it to us we can make this project happen, someone was going to provide me with an how to video but he never came through, he said he does it through his PS3 somehow, but anyways any info on this would be a huge help to us and future cool projects.
I've yet to see a PC that plays back Netflix without a frame drop somewhere, and I'm guessing Vudu is the same. Not to say it's impossible but I don't trust computers as the source for video capturing.
Now this would be great, but I would have to buy the program and then buy the HDX video and hope it all works, wish there was a way to know for sure before all the spending, I already spend 1 hell of a lot on the projects we do lol.
I bought a 4 way splitter last week that looks exactly the same as yours, and a Timeleak hd70a. installed the card and connected the splitter and tried both pinnacle studio 15 and honestech HD DVR 2.5 and no device is being recognised.
Inevitably, there is no way to surefire fix this without knowing exactly where in the chain the handshake is failing when this occurs.. If you can, congrats, you've likely found the issue.. for now.. until a link falls out of sync or compliance, whether downstream or upstream in the chain.. then the cycle begins anew.. It could very well be the roku firmware, content providers or indeed a cable or TV. There's no way to tell except by "trial and terror" lol.. This is ultimately what happens, when copyright protection is forced onto the masses.. We can debate and troubleshoot at what link in the chain the hdcp handshake is failing (at our expense might I add), until the cows come home.. But all we will be left with is frustration and an infinite loop of 1 hand blaming the other. It all comes down to a one-sided method of securing intellectual property, that was poorly engineered (IMO) to pass the blame, force obsolescence and deliver the headache onto us, the consumers. Thank you Roku and every other entity who jumped on the paranoia-infused HDCP bandwagon..
Cables don't "use" HDCP. Cables are categorized by speed and whether they support Ethernet. All HDMI cables support all HDCP versions. The only issue would be if someone tried to run a format using a cable too slow to support it (e.g. 4K video over a standard HDMI cable). But then you'd have video problems in addition to HDCP ones.
And, no, HDCP errors will not only happen due to cables. I changed out a Premier for an Ultra, absolutely nothing else was changed. Premier never had an HDCP error, Ultra has them frequently. No other devices connected to the TV get HDCP errors.
3. But I can ALSO fix it by going through the automatic display detection. It recognizes that OH yeah actually I can use 1080 with HDCP - everything is fine after all. I still have to do this each time which is unacceptable
4. I DID originally have it plugged into the USB on my TV, and when it did, I NEVER got this error because my Roku restarted every time my TV was turned off. It was only when I plugged it into wall power that I started receiving this error. At that point, I thought it was a problem with my Roku (I had some other issues with losing remote control connection too) so I took it back and replaced it with the same model. SAME EXACT ISSUE, and it has never been plugged into the USB on the TV.
We suspect the Chrome EME checker is giving HDCP 1.0 supported as the highest supported version no matter what - so I don't trust it. I ran tests on another system and it does do UHD on a different display and it fails past HDCP 1.0 on that test so its incorrect.
From what I can tell - there's a minimum version of DP 1.4a (mine does 1.2 I think) for HDCP 2.2 support and I can't really find any minimum version for HDCP when I google. My monitor does support HDMI 2.0
In my case - since replacing my monitor is a little much for 'testing' - I ended up picking up a "EDID Emulator" based on some online advice, and its a device that 'feeds' the PC either a predefined EDID persona or one you can clone off a working machine. Mine had a bunch of dip switches, and I set mine to emulate the same monitor resolution and frequency I have.
When other monitors are unplugged (One's known non HDCP compliant, the other is identical to the monitor I am testing on) from power, the Netflix pattern does run. I'm guessing the CyberLink BD tester detects one monitor is HDCP compliant and netflix detects the other ones are not.(Netflix's behaviour is correct but annoying),
Entirely consistent with NVIDIA everywhere else, this is insane so brace for it: only the Studio driver supports HDCP 2.2. You'll need to download the Studio driver, or if you got the cash buy an ATI card!
Since I asked this question: CyberLink updated the blue ray advisor on the link I provided in the question, and it is no longer broken. Its renamed the "Ultra HD Blue-Ray Advisor" - oddly its at the same link as I'd used before and there's no indication its a different bit of software
Using a Steam Link device to cast to a second monitor and using certain services such as Netflix or Hulu, videos show as black, empty screen. Sound still plays but no video. Other services such as Youtube show videos just fine.
Using Edge and edge://flags I've found that disabling the Widevine DRM has no effect on the black screen when streaming over steam link, but disabling the PlayReady DRM for Windows 10 results in an error message from HBOMax.
How can I sign up for an Xfinity package with Netflix?
Xfinity packages with Netflix are only available in select markets at this time. To check availability, please visit xfinity.com.
How do I know if my Xfinity package includes Netflix?
If Netflix is included in your X1 package, it will be listed in the \"Bundled Services\" or the \"Regular monthly charges\" section of your bill.
I signed up for an Xfinity package that includes Netflix. How do I activate my Netflix account?
Launch the Netflix app on your X1 TV Box. Then, follow the prompts to either link your existing Netflix account to your Xfinity package or create a new Netflix account to be linked to your Xfinity package.
How do I find the Netflix app on my X1 TV Box?
You can either say \"Netflix\" into the Xfinity Voice Remote or you can go directly to the Netflix app by clicking on the Netflix tile found in the X1 apps menu.
I signed up for an Xfinity package that includes Netflix but never accessed the Netflix app on my X1 TV Box. Can I still create a new Netflix account or transfer an existing one as part of my package?
Yes. However, you must open the Netflix app on your X1 TV Box to activate the Netflix service included in your Xfinity package.