Du Speed Booster Apk
Yufei Labbe
Could you please give me some advice about a speed booster? I have a Canon EOS 750D. Lately I have been taking quite a few night event photos. I do not have a fast lens (and can't afford one) and my aperture/f-stop can only go to f/4 - f/5.6 and I have to up my ISO, which I hate doing (I hate noise on a photo).
I saw an article that said a speed booster can give you an extra f-stop or two. Unfortunately, I do not have the necessary knowledge to know which one will work/what to look for or even if it will work as I have EF-S lenses.
Just FYI, a new EF 50mm f/1.8 STM or a new EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM is about US$130 (at the time of this writing). That's less than half the price of a Metabones Speed Booster, so your assumption that you can't afford a fast lens isn't exactly correct, if you're willing to give up zoom capability and go with a prime lens.
The speedboosters are wide angle converters for adapting SLR lenses to mirrorless, and reducing the focal length reduces the lens's max. aperture, because the f-number is a ratio of the focal length / aperture diameter. Reduce the focal length, you reduce the f-number. But you cannot use them on Canon EOS mount cameras, because they're made for mirrorless cameras (Fuji X, micro four-thirds (Olympus/Panasonic), or Sony E-mount).
Other techniques you can consider doing without getting a new lens would be learning to use a flash, or learning how to ETTR (expose-to-the-right) and post-process for noise. A high ISO setting, by itself, doesn't actually increase noise as much as underexposure can. It could be that attempting to use a lower ISO setting is causing you to underexpose.
Is there a way to use 35mm lenses on a S16 camera (with a PL mount) and have some sort of a speed booster that shrinks the S35 lenses to correctly cover the S16 camera (416, SR2/3, Aaton XTR). I know that if you add a convertor to a PL camera and you want to attach PL lenses you wont have the correct flange lens flange distance anymore, but is there a way around this?
I mean I don't see a market for this. The center of lenses is always the sharpest. So using 35mm style lenses on 16mm is totally fine. Just look at all the FF coverage lenses being used on 35mm imager cameras? It's a non-issue.
I think for sure there would be a market, for all the reasons outlined above. Unfortunately it would require a completely new optical design to overcome the lack of flange depth space. The reason Speedboosters hit the market when they did was because of the space afforded by mirrorless camera flange depths. A focal reducer actually brings the image plane closer to the lens, so you end up having even less room for the reducing optics than the nominal difference in flange depths between lens mount and camera mount.
There would be a market, but it would be fairly niche, limited to S16 PL cameras. So I suspect any manufacturer would baulk at the R&D costs to bring something like this to market, plus it would cost more than the current crop of speedboosters due to the extra optics required.
From vague memory, you would need at least 16mm of workspace between the film plane and the rear of a focal reducer aka speedbooster. You will not find that 16mm of workspace inside a rotating mirror-shutter reflex camera.
That workspace is for the Caldwell 0.71x Ultra optical cell which is not ideal for the Super16mm frame. You might just shoehorn it in with a custom assembly replacing the lens turret on a C-Mount Bolex H16RX5. There may be a C-Mount to M4/3 adaptor but the only versions I have found on eBay mount C-Mount lenses into a M4/3 camera, not the other way about so you have to get one made so that a Metabones PL to M4/3 Ultra 0.71x speedbooster could be mounted.
The Speedbooster for the original BMPCC would better suit the Super16mm frame optically but has to be even closer to the film plane (6mm) and would not fit in the available workspace of any Bolex as you will interfere with even the upright shutter disk path.
The RX5 Bolex has another wrinkle in that the prism path for the viewfinder changes the flange to focal plane distance compared to the Bolex non-reflex older H16 cameras. The in-air flange to focal plane distance may be shorter than when the prism splitter is in the optical path.
A 0.71x focal reducer may be most easily fitted if a custom C-Mount tail with M4/3-Mount front adaptor could be made. Otherwise it would come down to a custom rear tail for the 0.71x speedbooster. This is doable but introduces other difficulties including some very fine internal 0.5mm thread cutting.
I looked into this some years ago before I found some ultra 16s. I dont have the details handy, but the issue was basically that any semi-off the shelf solutions would not clear the mirror on a rotary mirror film camera. You'd have to go down a very expensive road to solve that issue. I bet there'd be a market for it if one could be made and sold for $500, but I dont believe thats remotely possible.
Honestly one is better off finding a set of Elite or Optar lenses (maybe with a panther 35mm t1.3) to have a better range of focal lengths than the zeiss super speeds. IIRC you can use Digiprimes on a super16 film camera with the optex B4 to PL adapter as well.
Its also worth noting that zeiss now sells a very nice set of new c mount lenses that cover super 16 (they're advertised as M4/3rds) if what you're after is a modern solution to wider lenses. -products/us/industrial-lenses/dimension-lenses.html
FOOTENOTE: I did a rough and ready offer up of a 0.71x focal reducer to the Bolex RX5. Without some severe modification which would replace the front swinging turret, I doubt you have enough real estate for the 0.71x to work to infinity focus.
If you look at this Vazen 50mm for example, it has quite a large protrusion and Vazen state on their website that it will not work with all native EF mount cameras due to this - which will likely obviously make it a no go for putting it on a speed booster as well.
You can see the comparison here of the protrusions for different mounts of the GreatJoy anamorphics and, whilst they don't make the same statement about native EF cameras they do state that it won't work with speed boosters.
Its a conundrum because the EF version is the best option to buy this lens in because it can be adapted to all the other mounts so it immunises you against changing camera body types (or makes it more versatile if you have a few different types anyway) but it will only work on either a full frame cameras or with a dumb adapter on an APS-C camera if you don't mind not being able to reduce the FOV.
Not for me, EF Mount is a terrible mount to use on set (along with all other stills lenses). You just don't get to have the lenses firmly locked in like you really need them to be at critical moments when you're pulling focus remotely.
I don't disagree about the locking mount but by far the biggest issues I have using focus motors with EF (or any other mount) stills lenses is with ill fitting gear rings and not using a lens support on the rods.
With a cine lens like these then the gear rings aren't an issue and as the absence of the lens support also causes issues on my native PL cine lenses on my native PL camera then I would use one irrespective.
I keep stressing in this that for me personally the EF mount is the more appropriate because I have different needs in terms of having it on different cameras but I recognise that if the majority of its use would be on a PL camera in that environment then I'd go with the PL version.
Of course if a person is already heavily invested in the EF system (most people don't need to rebuy adapter for five different camera systems! And I thought I was crazy obsessive with four camera systems! haha, well, you have me beat!), and doesn't want to move away from it, then yes it makes sense for them to carry on with it.
speaking of multiple camera systems, I'm strongly considering pulling trigger on a Fuji XH2S and the open gate mode would tempt me to check out anamorphic lenses. I was set on the EF to X mount metabones cine speed booster with lock (not just for anamorphic but for most of my EF lens compatibility):
So I guess it depends on what you're thinking you might do next. Maybe a Panasonic S1H mk2 could be in your future? But a locking EF mount doesn't exist for L Mount?? Then you'll be wishing you had got the PL version of the lenses! (this also depends on other factors, such as do you ever work with a 1st AC? Or do you just blindly pull focus yourself? So that level of precision and robustness you get from PL might matter a bit less to you)
I recently came across a discussion online about how a Speedbooster changes the field of view, depth of field and exposure. There was so much misinformation and conflicting statements about how they affect your lens or camera that the users who were giving correct advice were virtually drowned out. Therefore, I hope to dispel some of these mistruths by boiling down what a speedbooster actually does and how, before busting some common Speedbooster myths at the bottom.
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