Elite Pedals V2

[Vickey Melling]

Ihave tried to change USB ports, only having the USB port for the wheelbase in but none of the mentioned tries seems to work. I haven't updated the firmware because I read somewhere that it wasn't nessessary.

I found a fix looking for similar issues with GT Sport. I simply had to unplug the cable from my pedals to my wheelbase and plug them back into the wheelbase while the USB connection from the pedals to the PS5 was disconnected and leave the USB disconnected. I'll leave the thread up if someone else is confronted with the same issue.

The power supply of the PS5 USB and the Wheelbase could be at slightly different voltage levels, which will cause a short and kill your wheelbase or burn out your pedals. Connect 1 or the other, never both.

so, should i connect the base only to the PC or can i connect the pedals to the GT DD wheel base and then connect the wheel base to the PC and PC will detect everything, or i need to connect the pedals separated to the PC thru usb ?

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The standard pedals need to auto-calibrate. You can reset them by disconnecting and reconnecting the RJ12 cable from the wheel base while it is powered on. (Be careful not to touch the pedals as you do so). If a small amount of throttle input continues to appear, then there may be a hardware issue. Please create a support ticket via the My Products section of your Fanatec account.

I just got my CSL Elite F1 wheel base in the mail today and my CSL Elite pedals (waiting on the wheel to come in). I set everything up and installed the drivers to the latest version. Wheel base powered on fine, but when I go in to the wheel property software, the pedal inputs from me pressing them do not respond. Now I accidentally plugged the RJ12 cable from the pedals in to the shifter (i have since plugged it back in to the pedals port), and when I pressed the throttle and break I could see the input happening on the 2gs indicators. So, is there something wrong with the port on the wheel base or is it another issue? Am I missing a driver somewhere? Thanks

So I ended up solving what the issue was, something with the drivers that I was using. For the people who my stumble upon this forum experiencing the same sort of issue, here is how I went about fixing it:

So I have CSL Elite pedals only with USB adapter. I am running the current version of Windows 10 with up-to-date drivers. I have been having the hardest time getting these to be consistent. I started off setup on my current machine and they did not work at all the way they should out of the box. I ended up having to swap the throttle and brake connection in order for it to work. FAIL! I then decided to try using on a new Intel NUc i7 running Win10. The install worked with no issues but the Nuc was not powerful enough for what I wanted with Graphics. Last night I switched back to the other machine. I removed all old drivers and started fresh. Right off the bat nothing. Rinse repeat now only the brake works or is recognized in Fanatec and nothing from the throttle at all. It only works on two different USB Ports. By works, I can only see the brake. If I swap them again I see the Throttle as the brake and vise versa.I have uninstalled several times I a running the latest in FW. This SUCKS. I spent hard-earned money on polished poop. Bout to send back and go back to Logitech. At least it works out of the box. Any help would be awesome.

After rediscovering flat pedals while managing an injury, I've mostly been riding clipped-in. I have however stayed true to my goal of regularly working on my flat pedal skills and currently I'm spending my rides on a set of Bontrager Line Elite nylon composite pedals.

Where the Wah Wah has a larger platform and a massive cartridge bearing at the crank arm, the Bontrager Line has a more typical layout and has a slightly smaller footprint. For those with larger feet the Wah Wah is going to offer more support, especially for aggressive DH or Enduro riding, but for riders with smaller feet or, as I understand it, a penchant for dirt jumping the Line Elite will likely be the winner. Where's the cut-off between regular feet and larger feet? I'm a size 43 and I can happily ride either pedal so maybe 43 is the boundary.

I've heard the odd story from folks that have broken plastic flat pedals in situations where they felt the aluminum equivalent would have held up. Fair enough, Bontrager sells metal editions of these pedals for about twice the outlay. Personally, I can't think of a reason I'd spend more.

Based on measurements with my crappy caliper, the Line Elite has a slightly concave shape but compared to say a Chromag Scarab they feel flat. I've been riding them with both Shimano GR7 shoes and Bontrager Line Pro shoes (review pending) and the grip is great, and predictable, without the locked in feeling and knee pain I get from Five Tens.

On rainy days I get more traction from the larger bodied Wah Wah 2, but I do smoke the smaller Line Elite against fewer objects in tight trail situations, so the trade-off is again going to depend on foot size and preference.

For riders with a strong flat pedal preference, I don't think the Line Elite is going to blow your mind and convert you. At the same time for any rider with small-medium feet, or a focus on dirt jumping, new to the sport or otherwise looking for the best bang for the buck, these are a great option. They come in five colours, they're quiet and durable, the bearings have held up great, and they're a relative bargain.

I broke my carbon handle bars on winter fatbike (driving into a garage with bike on NSR rack) so switched to some aluminium ones. I really noticed the difference in warmth (living in Calgary) so brought some more carbon.

Hmmm.... may have to give these a try at the shop... composite flats out sell aluminum here 20:1. Apart from the Chromag Synths which seem to detonate with regularity and have really bendy pins there are few downsides to running composite pedals.

The Vaults are the best anyway, the feet feel planted and secure. With the Azonic plastic pedals I could feel the bulge over the axle, and they dont have enough pins. But they could take some serious hits against rocks, which did happen quite offen due to their size. When the bearings were done I replaced them with Chester knockoffs from Chenzhen. These are smaller, and they have even less real pins. Extra pins are easily added using a drill. The Chester knockoffs needed some tlc with the bearings first, but work fine since. No problems with the smaller size. They dont have that bulge, and yes you feel it when temperatures get freezing, even with Freeriders EPS.

Since then, the CSL Pedals, along with a load-cell kit were released. However, these are positioned as entry-level products which have left many people hoping the CSL Elite Load-Cell would be offered again.

Hall-effect sensors have replaced the potentiometers used previously on the throttle and clutch. The use of a magnetic field rather than moving parts to determine the pedal position should greatly improve consistency and reliability. As they were not sealed, dirt and debris could be ingested into the potentiometers. This lead to some cases of reliability and consistency issues.

The pedals now come fully assembled out of the box, and feature improved access to hard-mounting points. This is a very welcome change. There are now holes on the pedal tray directly above the mounting holes. You will no longer need to try and reach your mounting bolts awkwardly from the side.

The load cell is now behind the elastomer stack rather than in the pedal arm. While the previous design worked, the position of your foot on the pedal could significantly impact the braking force. This is certainly not ideal in a pursuit where consistency is everything.

It takes just a few seconds to swap the elastomers and springs with no need for tools. Making it feasible to change the mechanical setup of the pedals when switching between cars. On some other pedals (such as the Fanatec V3 load cell pedals), you are far less likely to bother making these changes due to the complexity.

The pedals feature the same modular design as the previous model. The clutch is removable, and the spacing between pedals is adjustable. However there is no adjustment for pedal angle on any of the pedals or adjustment for stiffness on the clutch or throttle pedals. This was also the case on the original Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals.

Straight out of the box, the Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals V2 have an excellent feel. There is absolutely no slop or dead zone in the pedals. They operate quietly, with rubber end stops eliminating metal-to-metal contact. The throttle and brake have a good feel to them. Essentially the throttle and clutch feel identical to the previous model, but with the added reliability provided by the new hall-effect sensors replacing previous potentiometers.

By default, the brake comes configured in the softest configuration, with a metal spring providing the sensation of initial uptake in the pedal. This simulates the gap between the pad and rotor closing. As you push through this phase, the pedal resistance becomes progressively stiffer until you reach the point where the pedal feels very stiff. This provides an excellent threshold point which you can push your foot to consistently, and then modulate around for threshold braking.

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