J Series Serpentine Belt Diagram

[Gerald Weiß]

Afterreplacing the water pump, thermostat and new serpentine belt 2004 Ford Mustang GT still over heating. Could the belt be on so the water pump turns in wrong direction? I ask because I removed all hoses and pulled the thermostat, then ran water through the engine. While car was off water ran through engine and out through bottom. When I turned the car on the water started back flushing out the top of engine with VERY little coming out bottom. If this is the problem could you provide the correct serpentine belt diagram? Mine goes starting from alternater over alt., down and over power steering, under crank, under A/C compressor pump, around water pump, under the tentioner, around smog pump and ending back at alternator.

Thank you, I was already a member so I can look at it. This is exactly how I have mine configured, so that elimates the belt being wrong. Now if I could figure out why it is still overheating. So far eliminated water pump, replaced it, eliminated the thermostat, replaced it. Now eliminated the serpentine belt configuration, your assistance shows mine is set up correct. I did a complete engine flush and found no issues there, so the only thing I can think of now is the possibility that the electric fan is not operating correctly, it does come on because I saw it running maybe it is not turning at the correct RPM or staying on long enough?

Head gasket failures on 4.6 l modular motors are uncommon. If they have been abused, however, it is possible. You probably have a two-speed fan with this car. Does it work at both speeds, low and high? Why pressure test it, were you losing coolant? You can often sign out pressure testers at auto parts stores in their tool-loan programs.

You wrote something that indicates this car is new to you. Do you have an owner manual for this car? You should get one and read it if you don?t. Look up the part about fail-safe cooling. Unless I missed my guess, you have it. It operates like this on my Merc according to my manual: If the engine gets too hot (cyl head temp sensor) the temp gauge goes to full scale and the PCM systematically shuts off the injectors on half the cylinders. (I believe it rotates the shutdown rather than pick half of them continuously.) You will have no AC. You are not supposed to drive like this unless it is absolutely necessary. If the engine gets too hot, it will shut down.

I suppose a flakey CHT sensor could cause these problems even if you are not overheated. You may have a coolant temp sensor and an CHT sensor. I think that he coolant temp sensor will normally run the gauge, but the PCM overrides it if the CHT says it is overheating. If you don?t have an owner manual, look to download one at www.motorcraft.com or www.fleet-ford.com.

Additional advice: put the t-stat in that is required if you changed to a cooler one. If the one you have is too cool will prevent you from going into closed-loop operation and turn on the CEL. You will also have less power and consume more fuel. You should run Motorcraft or Autolite plugs. Others may give you problems. What kind of coolant did you put in? You should be using G05 ( ). You can find the Zerex product at NAPA for one place. It is a lot more costly at the Ford Dealer.

Thanks for all of the great information. I am loosing coolant because it appears to be back flushing into the closed unit tank and once it fillsto capacity it starts coming out around the fill cap. I bought my replacement plugs and thermostat from the Ford dealership and they recommended an Itainium plug, said it would help with performance and fuel economy. They said the 180 thermostat would allow me to get heat in the car sooner in the winter and cool the engine sooner in the summer. All these things made sense to me so I went with their recommendation, besides they work for Ford so I figure they had the inside scoop for the local desert area we just moved to. I am running a 50/50 coolant and although I understand what and why you say to run Zerex, this problem started before doing anything at all to the car. As I mentioned above it came on very suddenly, my wife was driving home from the store (she is a VERY concervative driver). She stopped at a red light and started hearing a noise (the best I can describe it is a desieling sound) and at almost the same time the engine shut itself off. After it cooled down it started again so I started driving it the remainder of the way home and it did the same thing, it started making the noise and the temperature guage suddenly went from normal range to off the scale HOT and the engine shut down. I let it sit for two hours and drove it the rest of the way home.

Yesterday I started it and let it run until the temperature started into the normal range. I then went into the engine compartment and began watching to see if I could find the cause. To my amasement I saw the coolant backflowing into the tank and then out around the filler cap. The first time it did this when my wife had the problem I thought whoever topped off the coolant for her forgot to tighten the cap back down but when I saw it happen first hand I now firmly believe the problem stems from something in that general area.

I pulled all hoses off and removed the thermostat, I took a garden hose and put the water in through the the thermostat housing with the engine off. The water flowed out the bottom great force, I kept it running through the opening until I saw all the coolant was gone and clear water came out of the bottom opening. I then started the car with the water still flowing into the thermostat housing. As it started warming up the water started flowing back out through the thermostat housing, it did change to white foaming water as it came back out. Not as much as one would expect but I figured that was because I was forcing water in from the wrong direction.

After running the water through the engine I moved the hose to the top inlet opening on the radiator and flushed it. The water shot out of the bottom opening with full force and I ran it through the radiator until all of the coolant was gone and clear water was coming out.

What connects your vehicle's power steering, electrical, engine cooling and even air conditioning? The serpentine belt! For this key component, rely on the Jiffy Lube serpentine belt replacement to help keep your vehicle on the road.

Jiffy Lube visually inspects the serpentine belt for fraying, splitting, glazing (the working edge of the belt becomes shiny from age and wear) or any other damage. If necessary, your Jiffy Lube technicians remove the current serpentine belt and install a new one.

The serpentine belt is a single, continuous belt that drives multiple devices in your engine, such as the alternator, power steering pump, water pump and air conditioning compressor. If your serpentine belt breaks, all of these systems will shut down and your vehicle may overheat.

Description: Drive belts are made of reinforced, high-tensile strength cords and synthetic rubber. They connect the engine to front-mounted accessories. Belts come in two different types: The traditional V-belt (cross-section of belt has a V-shape) and the serpentine belt (also called Poly-V, Poly-Rib, Multi-Rib, and Micro-V belt), which uses multiple Vs for more positive contact with its mating pulleys.

Purpose: Drive belts provide power to engine-mounted accessories like the power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, mechanical cooling fan, and air injection pump. Serpentine belts are now used on almost all vehicles.

Is your Volvo's serpentine belt cracked, frayed, or making a squealing noise at the engine's front? We can limit serpentine belt breaking while driving risks with a quick inspection and replacement service if necessary. We offer certified service at our state-of-the-art service department. Schedule your serpentine belt maintenance online or give us a call for your service appointment at MAG Volvo Cars Dublin, OH.

The serpentine belt is a long continuous loop that delivers energy from the engine to belt-driven accessories, such as the water pump, alternator, power steering pump, and air conditioning compressor. The serpentine belt in your Volvo is durable, lasting for 100,000 miles or more under favorable circumstances. The owner's manual details when each model's serpentine belt should be replaced. You will also notice that serpentine belts should be inspected at major service intervals and replaced before the maintenance interval if they lose integrity.

The serpentine belt will usually show signs of losing integrity before it breaks. Although it can break while driving, it is essential maintenance to inspect the belt at major service intervals. You should replace it promptly in response to any of these warning signs to limit the risk of it breaking while driving:

If your Volvo's belt breaks while driving, it usually makes a loud slapping noise in the engine compartment. The power steering will stop working, and it will be harder to rotate the steering wheel. The water pump will stop working, and the engine will start to overheat quickly. The alternator will not work, and the battery charging system light will come on. On top of all that, the A/C also won't work, but this is the least of your troubles. Stop the engine as quickly as possible, and give us a call at MAG Volvo Cars Dublin.

We offer certified serpentine belt replacement service according to strict quality standards by certified technicians and genuine OEM parts. We will remove the old belt if it hasn't broken already, inspect the exposed drive belt pulleys, install the new belt, and adjust the tension to factory specifications.

If a belt fails on your Polaris RZR 800, RZR 4 800, RZR S 800, RZR S, RANGER RZR or RANGER RZR S, always clean any debris from the PVT intake and outlet duct and from the clutch and engine compartments when replacing the belt. Failure to remove all debris when replacing the belt could result in vehicle damage, loss of control and severe injury or death.

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