Translation/ Interpretaton of Pro Control Manual part 1

[Vickie Sa]

I'm having a hard time understanding these instructions.  For those English speaking folks that understand can you interpret what this means?  I'm going to add my interpretations in Blue.  If someone in the know can confirm my assumptions or correct, that would be awesome.

2) CERAMBOT Pro control board explanation
 

Nix this because the pictured control board was changed.  Not sure why this is still in the manual.  I'm not even going to add the old model's picture here.
This control board is the dedicated control board of CERAMBOT Pro, and the wiring method is wired as shown above. The metal toggle is controlled by the power supply of the control panel and can be pulled left and right. The middle 1 and 2 buttons are function buttons, where 1 is the push rod motor forward and reverse control, and the tilt can realize the forward and reverse switching. The 2 button is a software and hardware switching control button. On the one hand, the push rod motor can be controlled by the control panel and the forward and reverse rotation control. On the other hand, it can also keep the rotation of the black extruder. The algorithm uses Marlin's M163 code. 

 
The latest version of the control panel, compared with the original version, 1 blue changed to R dial code, 2 red changed to C dial code, the other consistent: 

Metal Toggle= power switch

R= Forward or Reverse controlled with switching left or right

C= to switch the extrusion control from software controlled or hardware/manual controller

The metal knob/ potentiometer : adjusts the speed of extrusion if it's in manual controller mode.

The "button" that is circled is a phillips head screw control that controls the current.  Normally the current is 3A but you can adjust it higher if the clay's viscosity is harder.  If you adjust it too high I may make the control board hot and you may get burned.  (So you can't just adjust the speed to make harder clay come out faster? At what point will you be frying the controller because the amps are too high?)

 
Pro control board wiring diagram, IN is the output signal from MKS expansion version, P is power supply, R is 57 stepping motor forward and reverse in hardware mode, C is hardware mode and software mode (M163 follow control) switching dial, right The output current of the 57 stepping motor can be adjusted in the side hole, and the middle knob (which should be rotated counterclockwise to the minimum in the initial state) can adjust the speed of the 57 stepping motor (in hardware mode).
 
Note: There is a white knob in the upper right corner of the CERAMBOT Pro control board to adjust the current of the pusher motor, and then adjust the thrust. Generally, it is about 3A. The current can be adjusted according to the hardness of the mud. If the control panel is too large, the control panel will be hot and easy to burn. Bad.
4

note: 1 button: Observe the steering of the worm and worm push rod motor. From the tail of the 57 stepping motor of the push rod motor, the clockwise rotation is the forward of the push rod, and the counterclockwise rotation is the backward of the push rod. 

I'm having a hard time understanding what this means.

2 button: Under normal circumstances, it is generally preferred to adjust the speed by the control panel, not consistent with the extruder, and the switch can be switched. 

Silver knob: When starting, the silver knob is adjusted counterclockwise to the minimum speed, then slowly rotate clockwise to observe the material discharge of the material. The silver knob must be turned counterclockwise to the minimum each time it is started. Silver knob rotation range: generally rotates 100°180° clockwise from the minimum. 

Start out at the minimum speed which is set at when you turn the knob all the way to the left.  Then adjust by turning right to increase the speed of extrusion.  Every time you start you must start out at the slowest speed.
 

1 button: Press to go forward (the 57 stepping motor in the push rod motor turns clockwise from the tail, push the rod forward), do not press to reverse (the 57 stepping motor in the push rod motor turns counterclockwise from the tail, The putter is backwards). Huh?

 2 button, press to go to software control, do not press, control panel control. Metal wrench: the left pull is open and the right pull is closed. Huh?
 

[Vickie Sanders]

Metal on/off toggle = "wrench"

The silver cap on the potentiometer is not in the box so it's just the black guts of the knob.

[Vickie Sanders]

I'm reposting this facebook comment from Robert Gusek which I found very helpful:

The instructions for using the controller board are funny if there weren't so many people that haven't used printers before :(

Here's my interpretation from doing some prints of how the controller board works:

1. The silver toggle switch is the power switch, when you see the small green light on the corner of the board then it's powered on, if everything is unlit then it is off. Or if the switch is to the left as you look at it from the front that's on, to the right is off.

2. There are two four conductor pins, one is coming from the controller board, the other goes to the stepper motor on the clay pump. NEVER PLUG OR UNPLUG these when anything is turned on, doing so has a very high chance of frying things.

3. There is a black knob at the top middle of the board. This knob only controls the speed of the clay pump when it is set to 'Manual' mode. In automatic mode it doesn't do anything.

4. There are two switches at the bottom of the board, the one on the left controls the direction of the pump, one way will cause the piston to go down, the other way will make it go up.

5. The switch on the right controls whether the pump is in 'Manual' mode or controlled by the control board and the gcode. There are small print on the board one says 'Hard' the other says 'Soft'. 'Hard' = manual and the speed is controlled by the black knob. 'Soft' = Automatic or software mode and the speed is controlled by the printer control board.

[Jony Liu]

IN: The signal from the MKS adapter board on ramps 1.4 enters the CERAMBOT Pro control board from here.

P: CERAMBOT Pro control board power supply 12V input

R: forward / reverse switch of push rod motor

C: Software and hardware mode switch, related to M163.

OUT: Output control stepper motor signal. This socket is directly connected to the 4pin line of the putter motor.

The knob in the upper right corner hole can adjust the current of the push rod motor. The corresponding current value on the PCB board is generally about 3.0A. It should not be too large and easy to burn.

The middle black knob adjusts the speed of the putter motor. When it is turned on, it needs to be turned counterclockwise to the minimum value.

The lower left corner is the control board master switch