Re: Digest for cc-3436@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 1 topic

[Mike Gowrylow]

Hi Churck, Richard and others.  Sorry, I can't manufacture another SS idler plate.  I just happened to have a 12x12 inch, 1/4 inch plate I picked up somewhere and cut, drilled and tapped it.  It took a long time, and because the original plate collapsed into bits and pieces, I had no template and had to make one, and it took some tinkering to get the mounting bolt holes to line up.  I had no problem with the sheaves because I simply remounted them to the new plate.  I didn't need to press out any bearings.  

I did talk to Edson but the half inch thick aluminum plate would have elevated the pedestal a quarter inch above deck.  I thought about making some kind of shim under the pedestal but that would have been a lot harder and might leak.

I like the idea of reversing the forward/reverse controls as I continue to get them wrong.  

Mike

On Mon, Feb 2, 2026 at 8:01 AM <cc-...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

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• Digest for cc-...@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 1 topic - 5 Updates

Digest for cc-...@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 1 topic

Chuck Scheaffer <scheaff...@gmail.com>: Feb 01 11:57AM -0500 Hey Mike,   Any chance you could produce more stainless idler plates for others? How did you attach the sheave towers?   Chuck

Richard Servance <hics...@gmail.com>: Feb 01 10:08AM -0800 Hi all,   I got the pedestal detached from the boat. The wires for the wheel pilot drive, power and data to the plotter were the most challenging bits there. I don't think I'm going to put any electronics back in there. I'll just replace the compass light and may mount the plotter/MFD on the port side of the cabin, just beneath where my wind instruments are now. [image: image.png]   I'll rebuild the pedestal at home in the warmth of my garage or office. Today's goal will be to pull the new teleflex engine control cables in. The next scope creep is to determine whether I can reverse the direction of the arm on the Yanmar transmission. If so, I'd like to swap to the standard engine controls from my current side control (reverse is up, forward is down). While I'm used to it now, I would strongly prefer forward being forward and back being back.   I'm still deciding on what to do about the idler plate - new, local build, etc. I want to ask Edson about this one ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/286579606532?_skw=edson+idler&itmmeta=01KGABFYSW6ZG4ET5YQCHYYDRW&hash=item42b979c404:g:eNYAAOSws9BoKpAB&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8O7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2Fq2VdY8dLDYx%2BUxfPA%2B5VnbeOSLDWJoSgpg99BpjWeEiVnqWSwpRu5sQJDh4t4fXKqOhxi7%2BxxFLp64POXfRxQfSspxSzqelV303%2BwzI6eBpfhdgrtQ6Y5IxPi51cqE7EwPEWlGxiij4Ln7GmSgrlu515yqGrZUDPXOJH2Socuba8LSjS6chtdAXYkF7ZP2vbaOukavuf0HR3Y%2BKYhSH3K%2FTvzmQVG6P7qSL6DWQx4NQCyyIhgf9inpxx1NKnTbt0KntU9KVCKg69ijJ4SPD9aTCtIb BE2u6m6GewpkW8GQ5g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4rtv8uCZw) which appears to be something they made custom for some Catalina boats. I find it very elegant, if it has any hope of working in our boat.   I talked to my mechanical things whisperer and he agrees that the press fitting used to mount the sheave towers is the most complicating factor of building a stainless plate locally. I haven't spoken to Garhauer or any local machine shops. It's boat show week here and maybe I'll get some ideas and insight there tomorrow.   I didn't snap any new/good photos yesterday, but figured some of you may appreciate a view of the rudder post without the radial drive wheel in place. I was a bit surprised that the whole bottom rign assembly turns and the bushings to not rotate on it, but just rest in place there.   [image: image.png]     Sail safe,     *Richard Servance*   1990 C&C 34+   757-995-3416   svblue...@gmail.com   @svblueheaven   Seattle, WA     On Sun, Feb 1, 2026 at 8:57 AM Chuck Scheaffer <scheaff...@gmail.com> wrote:

David Knecht <davida...@gmail.com>: Feb 01 03:07PM -0500 Hi Richard- I also thought that forward should be up, so I reversed the transmission by detaching the cable where it attached to the transmission arm and rotating the arm. If I remember correctly, it was set up so the cable attachment arm pointed down and now it points up. Could be the other way around. It took a bit of trial and error to find the exact angle that worked for both forward and reverse. Dave   David Knecht S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT   

Tim Aseltine <timas...@gmail.com>: Feb 01 04:39PM -0500 Does anyone have accurate drawings of the plate?   My nephew has a plasma cutter and might be able to cut a bunch.   Tim   Sent from my iPad   On Feb 1, 2026, at 3:07 PM, David Knecht <davida...@gmail.com> wrote:    Hi Richard- I also thought that forward should be up, so I reversed the transmission by detaching the cable where it attached to the transmission arm and rotating the arm. If I remember correctly, it was set up so the cable attachment arm pointed down and now it points up. Could be the other way around. It took a bit of trial and error to find the exact angle that worked for both forward and reverse. Dave   David Knecht   S/V Aries   1990 C&C 34+   New London, CT   <pastedGraphic.tiff>   On Feb 1, 2026, at 1:08 PM, Richard Servance <hics...@gmail.com> wrote:   Hi all,   I got the pedestal detached from the boat. The wires for the wheel pilot drive, power and data to the plotter were the most challenging bits there. I don't think I'm going to put any electronics back in there. I'll just replace the compass light and may mount the plotter/MFD on the port side of the cabin, just beneath where my wind instruments are now.   <image.png>   I'll rebuild the pedestal at home in the warmth of my garage or office. Today's goal will be to pull the new teleflex engine control cables in. The next scope creep is to determine whether I can reverse the direction of the arm on the Yanmar transmission. If so, I'd like to swap to the standard engine controls from my current side control (reverse is up, forward is down). While I'm used to it now, I would strongly prefer forward being forward and back being back.   I'm still deciding on what to do about the idler plate - new, local build, etc. I want to ask Edson about this one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/286579606532?_skw=edson+idler&itmmeta=01KGABFYSW6ZG4ET5YQCHYYDRW&hash=item42b979c404:g:eNYAAOSws9BoKpAB&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8O7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2Fq2VdY8dLDYx%2BUxfPA%2B5VnbeOSLDWJoSgpg99BpjWeEiVnqWSwpRu5sQJDh4t4fXKqOhxi7%2BxxFLp64POXfRxQfSspxSzqelV303%2BwzI6eBpfhdgrtQ6Y5IxPi51cqE7EwPEWlGxiij4Ln7GmSgrlu515yqGrZUDPXOJH2Socuba8LSjS6chtdAXYkF7ZP2vbaOukavuf0HR3Y%2BKYhSH3K%2FTvzmQVG6P7qSL6DWQx4NQCyyIhgf9inpxx1NKnTbt0KntU9KVCKg69ijJ4SPD9aTCtIb BE2u6m6GewpkW8GQ5g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4rtv8uCZw) which appears to be something they made custom for some Catalina boats. I find it very elegant, if it has any hope of working in our boat.   I talked to my mechanical things whisperer and he agrees that the press fitting used to mount the sheave towers is the most complicating factor of building a stainless plate locally. I haven't spoken to Garhauer or any local machine shops. It's boat show week here and maybe I'll get some ideas and insight there tomorrow.   I didn't snap any new/good photos yesterday, but figured some of you may appreciate a view of the rudder post without the radial drive wheel in place. I was a bit surprised that the whole bottom rign assembly turns and the bushings to not rotate on it, but just rest in place there.   <image.png>   Sail safe,   Richard Servance   1990 C&C 34+   757-995-3416   svblue...@gmail.com   @svblueheaven   Seattle, WA   --   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "C&C 34/36 Owners" group.   To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to cc-3436+u...@googlegroups.com.   To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/cc-3436/1940DC80-176F-4900-9B00-EC46C3BFF5D4%40gmail.com.

Chuck Scheaffer <scheaff...@gmail.com>: Feb 01 06:50PM -0500 I like the Edson idler made for Catalina. Not sure the sheaves are at the right angle for the C&C 34+, and they are not adjustable.   Chuck

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