Re: Digest for cc-3436@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 1 topic
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Mike Gowrylow
Jan 30, 2026, 10:22:22 PMJan 30
to cc-...@googlegroups.com
Richard, I had my pedestal idler plate disintegrate, and learned as you have that the aluminum replacement is thicker. I happened to have a 1/4-inch stainless steel plate that I cut and drilled to fit. It worked out well.
Mke Gowrylow
S/V Sassy
On Fri, Jan 30, 2026 at 8:01 AM <cc-...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
- C&C 34+ Rudder Support Question... - 6 Updates
Richard Servance <hics...@gmail.com>: Jan 29 09:27AM -0800
Yes, dissimilar metals. The old idler plate is mild steel, while all the
other components are aluminium. The reason the newer idler plates need
modifications is that they are now aluminium and thicker. Now that I can
see it, I can confirm that the 4 aluminium bolts thread into fittings
bedded into the fiberglass. I'm hoping I get away without needing to cut
into the aft cabin headliner, which is a fully one piece and seamless thing.
As to the cable routing, I took video as I was disconnecting it to make
sure I got the cross over locked into memory.
Back at it after work today.
Sail safe,
*Richard Servance*
1990 C&C 34+
757-995-3416
svblue...@gmail.com
@svblueheaven
Seattle, WA
Harvey Hauschildt <hausc...@msn.com>: Jan 30 03:56AM
Richard,
I have seen a number of owners that cut into the aft headliner and simply covered the hole with a small plate that can easily be removed at a later time if needed. I seriously doubt you will be able to remove those bolts without acscees below. I'll see if I saved any picks from past posts and send them to you.
________________________________
From: cc-...@googlegroups.com <cc-...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Richard Servance <hics...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2026 9:27 AM
To: cc-...@googlegroups.com <cc-...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: C&C 34+ Rudder Support Question...
Yes, dissimilar metals. The old idler plate is mild steel, while all the other components are aluminium. The reason the newer idler plates need modifications is that they are now aluminium and thicker. Now that I can see it, I can confirm that the 4 aluminium bolts thread into fittings bedded into the fiberglass. I'm hoping I get away without needing to cut into the aft cabin headliner, which is a fully one piece and seamless thing.
As to the cable routing, I took video as I was disconnecting it to make sure I got the cross over locked into memory.
Back at it after work today.
Sail safe,
[https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/mail-sig/AIorK4z6uCF6TPBMwKqiPU4SE4czL1x_rBM683Dw6gmZm4-bJQDm8J5wUivYMFtGfak9u6EWxApJQtM]
Richard Servance
[https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/mail-sig/AIorK4xV6H8S-H9B9mUpr6BNBsNR-oarFYb_WVhMdNNIv7fr97QYKjAiAewlHF21ZhZhQf5ceqMNUwk]
1990 C&C 34+
757-995-3416
svblue...@gmail.com<mailto:svblueheaven@gmail.com>
@svblueheaven
Seattle, WA
On Thu, Jan 29, 2026 at 7:12 AM Blair Clark <blairc...@gmail.com<mailto:blairclark190@gmail.com>> wrote:
To add even more to question why our boat was only. “Salt water” boat for 4 years before i replaced it.
On Thu, Jan 29, 2026 at 11:09 AM David Knecht <davida...@gmail.com<mailto:davidaknecht@gmail.com>> wrote:
It seems that many idler plates on these boats have failed, but some seem fine after a similar time frame. I have looked at mine with an inspection camera and it looked OK. Does anyone have a hypothesis as to why some are completely rusted and others seem OK? I don't see how salt water can be getting to them and I wouldn't think salt air would do that. The plate the steering cables attach to (what is that called?) attached to the rudder shaft seems much more exposed and yet mine is untarnished. Are the materials they are made out of different? Given the rust, I presume one is aluminum and the other steel? Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
[pastedGraphic.tiff]
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Tim Aseltine <timas...@gmail.com>: Jan 29 11:02PM -0500
I used a 5 or 6” hole saw to access in the aft cabin. I drilled it on the side so you really don't notice it and installed a screw cover access plate.
Tim Aseltine
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 29, 2026, at 10:56 PM, Harvey Hauschildt <hausc...@msn.com> wrote:
Richard,
I have seen a number of owners that cut into the aft headliner and simply covered the hole with a small plate that can easily be removed at a later time if needed. I seriously doubt you will be able to remove those bolts without acscees below. I'll see if I saved any picks from past posts and send them to you.
From: cc-...@googlegroups.com <cc-...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Richard Servance <hics...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2026 9:27 AM
To: cc-...@googlegroups.com <cc-...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: C&C 34+ Rudder Support Question...
Yes, dissimilar metals. The old idler plate is mild steel, while all the other components are aluminium. The reason the newer idler plates need modifications is that they are now aluminium and thicker. Now that I can see it, I can confirm that the 4 aluminium bolts thread into fittings bedded into the fiberglass. I'm hoping I get away without needing to cut into the aft cabin headliner, which is a fully one piece and seamless thing.
As to the cable routing, I took video as I was disconnecting it to make sure I got the cross over locked into memory.
Back at it after work today.
Sail safe,
Richard Servance
1990 C&C 34+
757-995-3416
svblue...@gmail.com
@svblueheaven
Seattle, WA
On Thu, Jan 29, 2026 at 7:12 AM Blair Clark <blairc...@gmail.com> wrote:
To add even more to question why our boat was only. “Salt water” boat for 4 years before i replaced it.
On Thu, Jan 29, 2026 at 11:09 AM David Knecht <davida...@gmail.com> wrote:
It seems that many idler plates on these boats have failed, but some seem fine after a similar time frame. I have looked at mine with an inspection camera and it looked OK. Does anyone have a hypothesis as to why some are completely rusted and others seem OK? I don't see how salt water can be getting to them and I wouldn't think salt air would do that. The plate the steering cables attach to (what is that called?) attached to the rudder shaft seems much more exposed and yet mine is untarnished. Are the materials they are made out of different? Given the rust, I presume one is aluminum and the other steel? Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
<pastedGraphic.tiff>
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Chuck Scheaffer <scheaff...@gmail.com>: Jan 30 08:50AM -0500
Hi Tim,
Can you share a photo of the hole and the cover you made?
Chuck
Tim Aseltine <timas...@gmail.com>: Jan 30 09:08AM -0500
I would love to, but with this Artic air, I haven't seen my boat in weeks.
Here is some pictures to explain.
Tim
image0.jpeg
image1.png
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 30, 2026, at 8:50 AM, Chuck Scheaffer <scheaff...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tim,
Can you share a photo of the hole and the cover you made?
Chuck
On Thu, Jan 29, 2026 at 11:02 PM Tim Aseltine <timas...@gmail.com> wrote:
I used a 5 or 6” hole saw to access in the aft cabin. I drilled it on the side so you really don't notice it and installed a screw cover access plate.
Tim Aseltine
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 29, 2026, at 10:56 PM, Harvey Hauschildt <hausc...@msn.com> wrote:
Richard,
I have seen a number of owners that cut into the aft headliner and simply covered the hole with a small plate that can easily be removed at a later time if needed. I seriously doubt you will be able to remove those bolts without acscees below. I'll see if I saved any picks from past posts and send them to you.
From: cc-...@googlegroups.com <cc-...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Richard Servance <hics...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2026 9:27 AM
To: cc-...@googlegroups.com <cc-...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: C&C 34+ Rudder Support Question...
Yes, dissimilar metals. The old idler plate is mild steel, while all the other components are aluminium. The reason the newer idler plates need modifications is that they are now aluminium and thicker. Now that I can see it, I can confirm that the 4 aluminium bolts thread into fittings bedded into the fiberglass. I'm hoping I get away without needing to cut into the aft cabin headliner, which is a fully one piece and seamless thing.
As to the cable routing, I took video as I was disconnecting it to make sure I got the cross over locked into memory.
Back at it after work today.
Sail safe,
Richard Servance
1990 C&C 34+
757-995-3416
svblue...@gmail.com
@svblueheaven
Seattle, WA
On Thu, Jan 29, 2026 at 7:12 AM Blair Clark <blairc...@gmail.com> wrote:
To add even more to question why our boat was only. “Salt water” boat for 4 years before i replaced it.
On Thu, Jan 29, 2026 at 11:09 AM David Knecht <davida...@gmail.com> wrote:
It seems that many idler plates on these boats have failed, but some seem fine after a similar time frame. I have looked at mine with an inspection camera and it looked OK. Does anyone have a hypothesis as to why some are completely rusted and others seem OK? I don't see how salt water can be getting to them and I wouldn't think salt air would do that. The plate the steering cables attach to (what is that called?) attached to the rudder shaft seems much more exposed and yet mine is untarnished. Are the materials they are made out of different? Given the rust, I presume one is aluminum and the other steel? Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
<pastedGraphic.tiff>
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Chuck Scheaffer <scheaff...@gmail.com>: Jan 30 09:29AM -0500
Hi Tim,
That helps a lot. I'm trying to understand better.
Do your pedestal bolts and guard bolts penetrate through the deck like on
my R model?
Can you access nuts on the other side of the deck well?
Chuck
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Mike Gowrylow
Jan 30, 2026, 10:24:46 PMJan 30
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I also replaced the aluminum bolts with stainless steel bolts. Most of the aluminum bolts broke or rounded out when I tried to remove them. Note also that a previous owner had created a hole through the headliner beneath the pedestal, and installed a circular cover.
Chuck Scheaffer
Feb 1, 2026, 11:57:50 AMFeb 1
to cc-...@googlegroups.com
Hey Mike,
Any chance you could produce more stainless idler plates for others? How did you attach the sheave towers?
Chuck
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/cc-3436/CAN14u8kwBuvYQBLsHXOXuxy-b0fXDg-uWhkigiG7-49aMQ5-2g%40mail.gmail.com.
Richard Servance
Feb 1, 2026, 1:09:07 PMFeb 1
to cc-...@googlegroups.com
Hi all,
I got the pedestal detached from the boat. The wires for the wheel pilot drive, power and data to the plotter were the most challenging bits there. I don't think I'm going to put any electronics back in there. I'll just replace the compass light and may mount the plotter/MFD on the port side of the cabin, just beneath where my wind instruments are now.
I'll rebuild the pedestal at home in the warmth of my garage or office. Today's goal will be to pull the new teleflex engine control cables in. The next scope creep is to determine whether I can reverse the direction of the arm on the Yanmar transmission. If so, I'd like to swap to the standard engine controls from my current side control (reverse is up, forward is down). While I'm used to it now, I would strongly prefer forward being forward and back being back.
I'm still deciding on what to do about the idler plate - new, local build, etc. I want to ask Edson about this one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/286579606532?_skw=edson+idler&itmmeta=01KGABFYSW6ZG4ET5YQCHYYDRW&hash=item42b979c404:g:eNYAAOSws9BoKpAB&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8O7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2Fq2VdY8dLDYx%2BUxfPA%2B5VnbeOSLDWJoSgpg99BpjWeEiVnqWSwpRu5sQJDh4t4fXKqOhxi7%2BxxFLp64POXfRxQfSspxSzqelV303%2BwzI6eBpfhdgrtQ6Y5IxPi51cqE7EwPEWlGxiij4Ln7GmSgrlu515yqGrZUDPXOJH2Socuba8LSjS6chtdAXYkF7ZP2vbaOukavuf0HR3Y%2BKYhSH3K%2FTvzmQVG6P7qSL6DWQx4NQCyyIhgf9inpxx1NKnTbt0KntU9KVCKg69ijJ4SPD9aTCtIbBE2u6m6GewpkW8GQ5g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4rtv8uCZw) which appears to be something they made custom for some Catalina boats. I find it very elegant, if it has any hope of working in our boat.
I talked to my mechanical things whisperer and he agrees that the press fitting used to mount the sheave towers is the most complicating factor of building a stainless plate locally. I haven't spoken to Garhauer or any local machine shops. It's boat show week here and maybe I'll get some ideas and insight there tomorrow.
I didn't snap any new/good photos yesterday, but figured some of you may appreciate a view of the rudder post without the radial drive wheel in place. I was a bit surprised that the whole bottom rign assembly turns and the bushings to not rotate on it, but just rest in place there.
Sail safe,
Richard Servance
1990 C&C 34+
@svblueheaven
Seattle, WA
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/cc-3436/CAAmhKussfd6xE5yetycTzBE1%2BadHVDLbmbk6MS%3DOqbxjXgH0Xw%40mail.gmail.com.
David Knecht
Feb 1, 2026, 3:07:56 PMFeb 1
to 'Glen Hunter' via C&C 34/36 Owners
Hi Richard- I also thought that forward should be up, so I reversed the transmission by detaching the cable where it attached to the transmission arm and rotating the arm. If I remember correctly, it was set up so the cable attachment arm pointed down and now it points up. Could be the other way around. It took a bit of trial and error to find the exact angle that worked for both forward and reverse. Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
On Feb 1, 2026, at 1:08 PM, Richard Servance <hics...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi all,I got the pedestal detached from the boat. The wires for the wheel pilot drive, power and data to the plotter were the most challenging bits there. I don't think I'm going to put any electronics back in there. I'll just replace the compass light and may mount the plotter/MFD on the port side of the cabin, just beneath where my wind instruments are now.
<image.png>I'll rebuild the pedestal at home in the warmth of my garage or office. Today's goal will be to pull the new teleflex engine control cables in. The next scope creep is to determine whether I can reverse the direction of the arm on the Yanmar transmission. If so, I'd like to swap to the standard engine controls from my current side control (reverse is up, forward is down). While I'm used to it now, I would strongly prefer forward being forward and back being back.I'm still deciding on what to do about the idler plate - new, local build, etc. I want to ask Edson about this one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/286579606532?_skw=edson+idler&itmmeta=01KGABFYSW6ZG4ET5YQCHYYDRW&hash=item42b979c404:g:eNYAAOSws9BoKpAB&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8O7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2Fq2VdY8dLDYx%2BUxfPA%2B5VnbeOSLDWJoSgpg99BpjWeEiVnqWSwpRu5sQJDh4t4fXKqOhxi7%2BxxFLp64POXfRxQfSspxSzqelV303%2BwzI6eBpfhdgrtQ6Y5IxPi51cqE7EwPEWlGxiij4Ln7GmSgrlu515yqGrZUDPXOJH2Socuba8LSjS6chtdAXYkF7ZP2vbaOukavuf0HR3Y%2BKYhSH3K%2FTvzmQVG6P7qSL6DWQx4NQCyyIhgf9inpxx1NKnTbt0KntU9KVCKg69ijJ4SPD9aTCtIbBE2u6m6GewpkW8GQ5g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4rtv8uCZw) which appears to be something they made custom for some Catalina boats. I find it very elegant, if it has any hope of working in our boat.I talked to my mechanical things whisperer and he agrees that the press fitting used to mount the sheave towers is the most complicating factor of building a stainless plate locally. I haven't spoken to Garhauer or any local machine shops. It's boat show week here and maybe I'll get some ideas and insight there tomorrow.I didn't snap any new/good photos yesterday, but figured some of you may appreciate a view of the rudder post without the radial drive wheel in place. I was a bit surprised that the whole bottom rign assembly turns and the bushings to not rotate on it, but just rest in place there.
Tim Aseltine
Feb 1, 2026, 4:40:15 PMFeb 1
to cc-...@googlegroups.com
Does anyone have accurate drawings of the plate?
My nephew has a plasma cutter and might be able to cut a bunch.
Tim
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 1, 2026, at 3:07 PM, David Knecht <davida...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Richard- I also thought that forward should be up, so I reversed the transmission by detaching the cable where it attached to the transmission arm and rotating the arm. If I remember correctly, it was set up so the cable attachment arm pointed down and now it points up. Could be the other way around. It took a bit of trial and error to find the exact angle that worked for both forward and reverse. Dave
David KnechtS/V Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT
<pastedGraphic.tiff>
On Feb 1, 2026, at 1:08 PM, Richard Servance <hics...@gmail.com> wrote:Hi all,I got the pedestal detached from the boat. The wires for the wheel pilot drive, power and data to the plotter were the most challenging bits there. I don't think I'm going to put any electronics back in there. I'll just replace the compass light and may mount the plotter/MFD on the port side of the cabin, just beneath where my wind instruments are now.<image.png>I'll rebuild the pedestal at home in the warmth of my garage or office. Today's goal will be to pull the new teleflex engine control cables in. The next scope creep is to determine whether I can reverse the direction of the arm on the Yanmar transmission. If so, I'd like to swap to the standard engine controls from my current side control (reverse is up, forward is down). While I'm used to it now, I would strongly prefer forward being forward and back being back.I'm still deciding on what to do about the idler plate - new, local build, etc. I want to ask Edson about this one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/286579606532?_skw=edson+idler&itmmeta=01KGABFYSW6ZG4ET5YQCHYYDRW&hash=item42b979c404:g:eNYAAOSws9BoKpAB&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8O7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2Fq2VdY8dLDYx%2BUxfPA%2B5VnbeOSLDWJoSgpg99BpjWeEiVnqWSwpRu5sQJDh4t4fXKqOhxi7%2BxxFLp64POXfRxQfSspxSzqelV303%2BwzI6eBpfhdgrtQ6Y5IxPi51cqE7EwPEWlGxiij4Ln7GmSgrlu515yqGrZUDPXOJH2Socuba8LSjS6chtdAXYkF7ZP2vbaOukavuf0HR3Y%2BKYhSH3K%2FTvzmQVG6P7qSL6DWQx4NQCyyIhgf9inpxx1NKnTbt0KntU9KVCKg69ijJ4SPD9aTCtIbBE2u6m6GewpkW8GQ5g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4rtv8uCZw) which appears to be something they made custom for some Catalina boats. I find it very elegant, if it has any hope of working in our boat.I talked to my mechanical things whisperer and he agrees that the press fitting used to mount the sheave towers is the most complicating factor of building a stainless plate locally. I haven't spoken to Garhauer or any local machine shops. It's boat show week here and maybe I'll get some ideas and insight there tomorrow.I didn't snap any new/good photos yesterday, but figured some of you may appreciate a view of the rudder post without the radial drive wheel in place. I was a bit surprised that the whole bottom rign assembly turns and the bushings to not rotate on it, but just rest in place there.<image.png>
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Chuck Scheaffer
Feb 1, 2026, 6:50:46 PMFeb 1
to cc-...@googlegroups.com
I like the Edson idler made for Catalina.
Not sure the sheaves are at the right angle for the C&C 34+, and they are not adjustable.
Chuck
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