Steering wire set up on rudder post radial

[Blair Clark]

Hello after replacing my idler plate this spring I am having difficulty getting proper tension on the wire cables and I am concerned that the starboard wire may jump the pulley.

The steering set up on my C&C 34 plus has a two foot chain that goes over the sprockets of the wheel shaft.

Attached to the ends of the chain are seven foot wire cables which cross side for side down when running downwards inside the binnacle tube to go through the top of the idler plate (separate holes) around the forward side of the idler pulleys and then back to the rudder radial plate.

Three questions I have are:

1) when the wires cross inside of the binnacle tube is there a preference for which one to cross forward of the other?

2) when the wire leads around the side of the radial drum do you affix it to the same side tensioning eye bolt (ie wrap it around almost 330 degrees ) or do you lead it more diagonally across to the other side tensioning eye bolt? More simply put, does the starboard wire connect to the starboard side eye hook or port side?

3) how do you get effective tension on this wire? When I run the starboard cable to the starboard eye hook it is very difficult to pull effectively taunt tension by hand and also get the saddle on the wire. Then when I go to tighten the nut on the back of the eye hook to increase tension I can only get the nut up to about 3/4 of an inch behind what is the inner back of the plate before I would need a wrench which I believe is just about impossible to work given space between deck and bottom side of plate. This of significant tension were to come on the eye bit and it slip forward in the hole the wire would loosen and could jump the pulley.

I really need some help here to learn about this. 

If you know please respond.

Thanks Blair

9022331684

[Blair Clark]

hello all,

I feel embarrassed. I just found a training video on the Edson website that answered the important part of  my questions. I had inserted the eye tensioner bolt incorrectly, by having the eye on the upper side of the radial and bolt on lower.

This is incorrect and it should be reversed.by having the bolt end fed from the bottom under side through the radial. This allows for the nut to be tensioned and they eye out of the way of the floor board.

I guess the question remains whether or not there is a preference on routing the wire cable doen the pedestal tube as to which cable to put fore and aft or if it matters.

Thank you.

Bl;air

[Tim Aseltine]

Good morning Blair.

I believe the two pulleys are offset to allow one to be forward of the other and not touch.

Tim Aseltine 

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 2, 2021, at 7:57 AM, Blair Clark <blairc...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Francois Rivard]

Hi Blair, 

I haven't messed with the chain side but there's no crossing of the wire on my boat.  The wire connects to the same side tensioner if I remember correctly. As for the tension, I have about 1/2" - 3/4" slack, the Edson site explains the tension fairly precisely if I remember right.  

What I do remember 100% however: Is the difference in responsiveness and steering feel compared to before I did the adjustment: It's night and day!  Like  / steering like doing suspension / steering work on my track car... 

-Francois

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[Jack Huttner]

Blair, all,

I've had reason to call Edson technical support recently on my binnacle problems and found them to be extremely informative and helpful, even offering to talk me through the installation process.  

Jack

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[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

Hi Bair,

The steering wire cables do cross inside the pedestal.  When you turn the wheel to the right, the cable leaving the left side of the pedestal gear tensions and pulls the starboard side the quadrant so the rudder turnes properly and the boat turns to starboard.  Which cable goes forward of the other should be obvious from the holes in the idler plate.  One pulley is probably further forward than the other for this purpose. 

 

Edson has several videos and diagrams on their website.  Here's a link to one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDa6fKxmoBU

 

Slack verses play:  Some skippers switch the terms and they get it wrong.  "Play" is side to side movement in the wheel.  There should be no play in the system.  Turning the wheel should cause imediate movement in the rudder.  Slack in the cables should also be avoided and the cables adjusted till all slack is removed.  The cables should not be over tensioned, they should not be tuned like a banjo string.  We are not stretching them to a percentage of breaking strength like a wire shroud.   However, there should be enough tension in the cables so they are taught, but you should be able to deflect the cable about a quarter to a half inch from full straight, in the middle of the longest run.  It's similar to tensioning a fan belt.  You don't want slippage, but you don't want to damage bearings by making the belt too tight.   In our case, too tight will damage the rudder bearings, sheave bearings and the cog bearings in the pedestal. 

 

Good luck

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, Pasadena Md

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[Fred DeSantis]

 

EB381SteeringGuide.pdf (edsonmarine.com)

page 7 lower right shows a diagram of the proper way to attach the wires to the radial.  And includes the note below

 

NOTE: For RADIAL DRIVE cross the cables inside the pedestal for
proper steering direction.

 

your questions:

1. No, but they do need to be crossed or steering would be opposite. (as per installation instructions.  After assembly adjust the sheaves on the idler plate so there is a clean run with no binding.

2, 3. check out the same diagram on page 7, starboard to starboard port to port 

wire needs to be cut to length, diagram shows proper way to attach ends to wires, very important.

If all is placed as the diagram tensioning should not be an issue.

Before you tension the wires check to see you steering wheel is centered the way you like.  Spoke up ect.  You can adjust the wheel position by moving the chain on the pedestal wheel a tooth or so.   Then take up equal tension on the quadrant end stops to keep the wheel centered.  You can fine tune the feel you like in the helm as the wires stretch.

 

Before installation  is a great time to replace both throttle and shift cables. They are old.   Remove, measure and order.  Morse cables worked for me.

also check out the rudder stop, stainless bolts into aluminum will make them tough to remove but patience and a lot of soaking with your favorite penetrating  oil, Pb Blaster is mine.  I ended up removing the quadrant to get mine off.  I drilled through and replaced with stainless through bolts.  Generous coating of never seize.  I use never seize on everything.  Oil all wires, chain, and idler. Also small holes are provided in the pedestal to oil the steering wheel bearings.  Don't get any on the wheel brake pads. 

 

I also had my new steel idler plate powder coated and then a good coating of flex seal.  Not as good as Chuck's stainless method, but I was cruising and repaired mine in Stuart, be advised, had the boat over 20 years and have had to do this twice. Not fun.

call with any questions

 

Fred

Cats Paws

609 827 0224

On 08/02/2021 6:13 AM Blair Clark <blairc...@gmail.com> wrote:

 

 

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[Fred DeSantis]

Not sure if this went out.

So resending.

Fred

Cats Paws