Resealing forehatch

[sutt...@gmail.com]

Recently I saw that my forward hatch above the focsle was leaking slightly from between the cabin top and the frame. On closer examination I found the screws holding the forward part of the frame down had come loose. I tightened the screws and now there is no leakage. As it is the winter I am not going to reseal the frame with Sikaflex at present. For the time being I have dried the outside edge and put Vaseline around it and in the screw heads in the hopes no more water will get in. 

I am concerned that if the area of cabin top where the hatch is cored, moisture may have go into the coring.

Does anyone know if the mounting for the hatch is cored or solid?

I also would suggest owners keep on eye on this area because there is pressure to lift the front part of the frame whenever the hatch is opened.

Ben Sutton

Evangeline 34+ 1990

[Chuck Scheaffer]

As you probably know the forward hatch is held open by tension in the hinges.  This tension is adjustable and loosening the allen screws until the hatch works freely and then tightening only enough to hold it open, you may solve the stress lifting the front of the frame when you open the hatch.  On the 34R, the hatch is through bolted to solid fiberglass and the coring is not penetrated.  It may be different on a plus which has an interior liner.

Chuck S

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[Ben Sutton]

Thanks Chuck,

Looking at the thickness of the surround of the forehatch vurses the cabin top hatches, I suspect it is not cored on the 34+. So fingers crossed.

Ben

On Nov 18, 2025, at 2:17 PM, Chuck Scheaffer <scheaff...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Francois Rivard]

Mine (34+) is through bolted for most screws as I recall. 

One of the easiest leaks to fix was caused by loose screws on the latches. 

Don't waste your time and make life worse later by using sikafkex or any other curing adhesive. This big hole in the fordeck is obviously a significant flex area created both foredeck crew stumping around wrestling spinnakers up and down and the boat dealing with waves. 

The simple answer is the one already provided by C&C engineering who knew far more about boat building than any of us.

Just rebed using butyl tape. It's a far easier / quicker process then you might think. It's just a handful of screws, remove the hatch, clean the old stuff (super easy if not mocked with adhesives), and lay it down.  Butyl tape's thickness and flexibility is an amazing thing.  I did mine 3-4 years ago, not one drop. 

The West marine stuff is just fine,  don't beleive the old wives tales about brand X or specific color being the only option. 

INCOM Butyl Caulking Tape, White https://share.google/WjPgh3vc4GV9xOBv7

-Francois

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[jsey...@appliedmechanics.net]

I agree with Francois and have used butyl tape exclusively for re-bedding deck fasteners for the last 10+ years with great success.  It works well since it never hardens or dries out and therefore keeps its seal.  I still have -and still use - the same roll of butyl tape that I bought 10 years ago, unlike countless half used tubes of polysulfides, silicones etc. that I’ve thrown out. 

 

Suggest you clean both mating surfaces completely, and countersink each screw hole before applying the tape, then retighten the fasteners a few days later.

 

-John

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