Edson Idler Plate replacement

[Chuck S]

Finished the install of the new idler plate Sunday.  It took a great deal of work to get the aluminum plate to fit where the old "mild steel" plate fit the deck well.  I had to grind the ears of the new aluminum plate and some of the fiberglass to get it to sit level.  The plate wound up higher than the deck so final fit required a 3/8" trim ring (PVC sheet comes in 3/8")  between the deck and the pedestal base.  I had to caulk the bolts so couldn't find a way to Tefgel them first and caulk.  Used 3M UV 4000 cause it works with PVC while Boat Life polysulfide does not.  What a mess getting all the cables and wires routed through the pedestal and plate, then caulking, then bolting, etc.  Stupid me.  In hindsight, I should have bolted up the pedestal to the deck, and run the steering cables and shifter and throttle cables, compass light, and autohelm cable, after.  4" SS bolts were plenty long.  Added washers underneath.  

In hindsight, 1/2" starboard could be used for the trim ring and saved a little grinding.  

A folding rule made a great fish when I had to reroute the electric wires for the compass light.

The new plate positions the idler sheaves lower in the deck well, so I'll have to lower the quadrant on the rudder post to get a fairer lead.

I cut down the SS uprights, reused my old bronze sheeves:

New idler plate:                                                                                              $ 285

New Chain and Cable set:  Edson PN 77109, 2' #50,  7' 3/16" 7 x 19          $ 265

4) 1/2" x 4" long SS bolts w washers and nuts:                                             $   24

1) 12" x 27" x 1/2" Starboard  (trim ring)                                                        $   35

1) tube of Caulk                                                                                             $   15

1) new cutoff wheel 4 1/2" for SS for grinder                                                 $     5

1) new grinding disc 4 1/2" for SS                                                                 $     5

1) spray paint black                                                                                       $     5

8) M5 nylok nuts for wire clamps                                                                   $     5

Total                                                                                                               $ 644

Tools used: band saw to cut outside of trim ring and idler plate ears, angle grinder, jig saw to cut inside of trim ring, drill to start trim ring cut, hand files, sand paper, tape and string to fish cables through pedestal, clamps, markers, folding rule.

Total hours for me: 16 hours spread out over three weekends, but I'm slow.  And that doesn't count picture taking and researching the internet and emailing.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

[Greg Gifford]

You’re my new hero.  That is more than I would attempt (at least while sober).  Has anyone heard back from Rob Ball re. getting Edson to make a correct fitting part?

Greg Gifford

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[Monty Schumpert]

Chuck,

Nice job! Thanks for bringing this issue to our attention -- I just had a chance to look at my steering system today and did find that the cables were a little slack but did not find a lot of rust below the idler plate. I replaced my cables and chain about 1 1/2 years ago and some of the slack may be stretch. I'll have a closer look when I get the boat in the water and finish painting the mast after much delay due the prolonged cold weather this spring.

Any more info on the CBYRA short handed class racing this season -- was wondering if they have a start in the upcoming race to Gibson Island on May 16. I'm doing RC duty for the race and attending the party at GIYS later that day, so if you're out maybe I'll see you there.

Cheers,

Monty
Scandia
1991 C&C 34+
Annapolis, MD

[Harvey Hauschildt]

Thanks again for sharing your pain, I'm certain it will lesson it for others.  The information you and others have provided is invaluable should our boats suffer the same affliction.

Harv Hauschildt
 

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Date: Mon, 4 May 2015 16:41:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Edson Idler Plate replacement
From: isb...@hotmail.com
To: cc-...@googlegroups.com

[Chuck S]

Hi Monty,

Glad your plate has no rust.  You're probably fine if the slack was under an inch of adjustment.  I had 2" of slack when I found my problem and ordered the part right away.   I hadn't needed to adjust my cables for 12 years prior.  The 37/40 has the same deck well design and I've heard horror stories of catastrophic failures on both models, usually far from port.

CHESSS, Chesapeake Bay Shorthanded Sailing Society, is gearing up for a race somewhere every weekend, this summer, starting this Saturday.  Many clubs, all over the Bay, have offered to have a separate start for us.

I hope to do the race you mention from Annapolis to Gibson Island on the 16th.  Also the one to Baltimore and the Race Over and Race Back.  

Boat readiness:  I would really like to make this Saturday's first CHESSS race and meet everyone.  I've only met Joel Aronson and there are 25 or 30 other skippers.  But I haven't started my engine yet and there was a funny noise last time out?     I need to scrub the bottom before leaving the slip, or if the engine noise is still there, I may short haul and powerwash the bottom?  I had to cut my autohelm cable to put the new idler plate on, so I have to splice those wires in the lazarette.  I have my genoa on the furler but need to get the main on.   My boat is covered in pollen, needs a wash.  I know nothing about the courses.  I have no vacation time this year, and only sick time left till July 1st, but if I can get my ducks in row at work, I may be down Thursday.  We'll see.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

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From: "Monty Schumpert" <jmsch...@verizon.net>
To: "cc-3436" <cc-...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2015 10:10:19 PM

Subject: Edson Idler Plate replacement